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Live From The Mariner, Villages of the Amazon, 26 Nov - 21 Dec


TahoeTraveler
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We travelled this route three years ago on the Mariner, also with the admirable Terry Breen. Boca de Valeria is not quite as you described. Yes it's a sort of front for a number of local villages in the area; everyone has a cell phone these days and having a soccer stadium in the area is hardly a sign of affluence. Yes, some of the children dress up as Amazon natives and ask for money to pose for photographs with local wildlife. However there are also boat operators who for a nominal amount ($10 or so) will take you upstream to visit genuine villages and family homes. It may also be the only chance you might have to intermingle with the local Caboclo population on your trip. These are not rich people and certainly cruise ships have changed their lives, but life on the Amazon remains tough.

 

I would suggest (as we did) you take your pencils and colouring books you so thoughtfully brought along to the Reception Desk and ask for them to be included with the boxes of supplies Regent donates to the region each visit. These are distrubuted equitably amongst the village schools and provide much needed provisions. We received a lovely card thanking us for our contribution and we knew they would go to where they were needed most. Enjoy the rest of your trip - it's amazing and the Amazon is surprisingly seductive.

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We travelled this route three years ago on the Mariner, also with the admirable Terry Breen. Boca de Valeria is not quite as you described. Yes it's a sort of front for a number of local villages in the area; everyone has a cell phone these days and having a soccer stadium in the area is hardly a sign of affluence. Yes, some of the children dress up as Amazon natives and ask for money to pose for photographs with local wildlife. However there are also boat operators who for a nominal amount ($10 or so) will take you upstream to visit genuine villages and family homes. It may also be the only chance you might have to intermingle with the local Caboclo population on your trip. These are not rich people and certainly cruise ships have changed their lives, but life on the Amazon remains tough.

 

I would suggest (as we did) you take your pencils and colouring books you so thoughtfully brought along to the Reception Desk and ask for them to be included with the boxes of supplies Regent donates to the region each visit. These are distrubuted equitably amongst the village schools and provide much needed provisions. We received a lovely card thanking us for our contribution and we knew they would go to where they were needed most. Enjoy the rest of your trip - it's amazing and the Amazon is surprisingly seductive.

I am only passing on what Terry Breen told us in her presentation. I have no doubt that life on the Amazon is very hard, and we would like to help as much as we are able. Thank you so much for your suggestion to add our "supplies" to the Regent donation...it makes it much easier for us, and we will know it is going to the right place.

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Well,technically it's now 2am, 5 Dec. I simply could not let the entrance into the Amazon delta pass me by, so I have stayed up to watch it all from our aft balcony. While I have not seen a huge difference in the water (although I do think it might be more brown, but it is hard to tell in the dark!!!), I have seen the most amazing night skies ever. We live in northern Nevada, and have the most beautiful skies...but I was amazed at what I just experienced. I could see the Milky Way literally arc from my right to my left...it was like you could see the curvature of the Earth right there in the sky. Not only that, but it appeared the entire night sky arced over the back of the ship. And there were shooting stars everywhere. Llterally every minute or two. It was an amazing night sky, and for those of you taking this cruise in the future, all I can suggest is that you drink a whole lot of coffee and sit your butts out on your balconies when you enter the Amazon delta, because it is breathtaking.

 

Mikah was really good tonight, and she is just a sweet girl (we have talked to her on several occasions). We ate dinner in Compass Rose, but didn't get there until 8pm, which ended up being a great move...apparently the later you arrive, the quicker you get served. After dinner and the show, we headed to Stars where we had a great time with Kevin, the assistant CD...I've never been much for karaoke, but he made it a lot of fun!!! Wow...we have been going non-stop, and this is supposed to be a relaxing trip!!

 

Tomorrow is the Equator passing party with King Neptune, and we cannot wait. For all our years in the Air Force, we have never been south of the Equator, so this is a big deal for us. This has been a fantastic cruise so far, and we are enjoying it so much!!!!

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I am only passing on what Terry Breen told us in her presentation. I have no doubt that life on the Amazon is very hard, and we would like to help as much as we are able. Thank you so much for your suggestion to add our "supplies" to the Regent donation...it makes it much easier for us, and we will know it is going to the right place.

 

TT I did not mean to cause offence my remarks. Terry Breen is a legend and we all listened to her advice eagerly. But I hope fellow passengers are not too disillusioned by her words not to give Boca De Valeria a go. But be warned, it's very muddy. And with only about 10 cruise (smallish) cruise ships visiting each year it's not something that happens every day in the community.

 

And I gather from your last post you're already getting seduced by the Amazon. Don't forget to have a swim at Alter Do Chao if you're able:).

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TT I did not mean to cause offence my remarks. Terry Breen is a legend and we all listened to her advice eagerly. But I hope fellow passengers are not too disillusioned by her words not to give Boca De Valeria a go. But be warned, it's very muddy. And with only about 10 cruise (smallish) cruise ships visiting each year it's not something that happens every day in the community.

 

And I gather from your last post you're already getting seduced by the Amazon. Don't forget to have a swim at Alter Do Chao if you're able:).

 

Oh, I wasn't offended...sorry if it sounded that way! I think Terry Breen was telling us about Boca de Valeria so we would go in knowing that it's not a "true" Amazon village, not to dissuade us from visiting. I haven't heard of anyone who isn't going to go there because of what she said. And I really do appreciate your suggestion about giving the gifts we brought to Reception to be added to their donation...it makes it SO much easier, as I wasn't looking forward to dragging them around until I could find the teacher to give them to!

 

Yes, I have been seduced by the Amazon. The boobies (local birds) are swarming behind us right now and it is fascinating to realize that we are on the river, and yet you can barely see the land on either side of us, it is that wide here. We are just a few minutes (not time, but latitude) from being at the equator, and as former aviators, we are very excited about that. Normally I would be at the gym right now, but we are conserving water because we are not in salt water and therefore the ship cannot use its desalinization system to make water, and therefore I have to limit my number of showers. Well, that's my excuse anyway...it doesn't have anything to do with the fact that there are too many on board activities going on that I just don't want to miss!!!!

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...Normally I would be at the gym right now, but we are conserving water because we are not in salt water and therefore the ship cannot use its desalinization system to make water, and therefore I have to limit my number of showers. Well, that's my excuse anyway...it doesn't have anything to do with the fact that there are too many on board activities going on that I just don't want to miss!!!!

 

Wow, they've actually asked you to limit your showers?

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I've read about the issues with water while cruising the Amazon on other cruise lines. Has there been any mention of limiting uses of the washing machines? In terms of showers, I would assume that after being outside in the hot, humid weather one would want a shower. Perhaps passengers can do a quickie "cool down" shower.

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We travelled this route three years ago on the Mariner, also with the admirable Terry Breen. Boca de Valeria is not quite as you described. Yes it's a sort of front for a number of local villages in the area; everyone has a cell phone these days and having a soccer stadium in the area is hardly a sign of affluence. Yes, some of the children dress up as Amazon natives and ask for money to pose for photographs with local wildlife. However there are also boat operators who for a nominal amount ($10 or so) will take you upstream to visit genuine villages and family homes. It may also be the only chance you might have to intermingle with the local Caboclo population on your trip. These are not rich people and certainly cruise ships have changed their lives, but life on the Amazon remains tough.

 

I would suggest (as we did) you take your pencils and colouring books you so thoughtfully brought along to the Reception Desk and ask for them to be included with the boxes of supplies Regent donates to the region each visit. These are distrubuted equitably amongst the village schools and provide much needed provisions. We received a lovely card thanking us for our contribution and we knew they would go to where they were needed most. Enjoy the rest of your trip - it's amazing and the Amazon is surprisingly seductive.

 

If you are interested, ask if you can be included when the donations are made - we did this and it is one of my best memories of the cruise - a number of officers, including at that time the Captain participated. Numerous bags and boxes were carried to specific individuals who are anxiously awaiting the donation, and when I was there, a number of the school children were present with their eyes wide open, as if Santa had arrived. I had brought boxes of mechanical pencils in funky colors and designs, some of which even lit up and the children were fascinated by them. By participating in the Regent donation, you know that the items will be used for the purposes intended and the added benefit is that you will not be burden with the extra weight in your luggage for the flight home.

 

gnomie :)

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If you are interested, ask if you can be included when the donations are made - we did this and it is one of my best memories of the cruise - a number of officers, including at that time the Captain participated. Numerous bags and boxes were carried to specific individuals who are anxiously awaiting the donation, and when I was there, a number of the school children were present with their eyes wide open, as if Santa had arrived. I had brought boxes of mechanical pencils in funky colors and designs, some of which even lit up and the children were fascinated by them. By participating in the Regent donation, you know that the items will be used for the purposes intended and the added benefit is that you will not be burden with the extra weight in your luggage for the flight home.

 

gnomie :)

Unfortunately, Regent no longer does a presentation because the village no longer exists as an actual place where people live. I checked with Reception, and apparently at one time Boca da Valeria was actually a real village, with people who actually lived there. Then, at some point in time, the villagers moved to a modern community, and the village was kept simply as a stop for cruise ships, to show what the villages used to look like. Because no one actually lives there now, Regent doesn't do any donations anymore. I really wish they had let us know ahead of time that Boca da Valeria is more like a Disneyland attraction than a real place (sorrry...not my words, but those of many on board right now), but it won't dampen our enjoyment of the cruise. We just wouldn't have dragged along an extra suitcase full of goodies!!!!!

 

As for the water situation, no one has told us we cannot take showers or use water. They have just explained that we need to conserve water while enroute to Manaus because they cannot generate more water while on the Amazon (we will restock in Manaus). As former military members, when someone tells us to conserve anything, we tend to take it to extremes, and thus our reluctance to take long or multiple showers. But trust me, we ARE showering!!!! But I do not know if they have shut down the laundromats or the laundering of linens or towels...we have seen absolutely no reduction in the level of service or replacement of soiled items, so it may be that they are just being extra cautious.

 

Today had to be one of the best, if not the best, days of the cruise. We did a bunch of activities, to include darts (which Mike actually won), bingo (in which I won one game, and Mike won the final game), and the King Neptune presentation when we crossed the Equator. Apparently part of crossing the Equator for the first time involves kissing a fish...I was first in line because I thought it was hilarious (although slightly silly). I just felt sorry for the fish!!!!

 

After a great game of trivia, we headed to Setti Mari for dinner. They were able to seat us outside for probably the last time while we are in the Amazon (the bugs are going to start getting bad tomorrow, apparently). It was still daylight when we were seated, and we had an absolutely lovely dinner out there. It was quite beautiful and interesting, as we glided along with the jungle on either side of the ship.

 

I am now headed to the Name That Tune competition, with the Liars Club game afterwards. They mixed it up a bit, and had the flute player do his thing before dinner, with the "games" now after dinner. Should be a fun time...if I can find anyone to play with. Mike has fallen asleep after that great dinner, and I don't have the heart to wake him!!!

 

Santarem tomorrow...more late.

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It's rather sad that things have changed so much in 3 years, but then it's probably an affirmation that the cruise ship industry can improve the fortunes of a single village, and that's a good thing.

 

But what to do with your donations? Now I doubt very much you are the only passenger who was thoughtful enough to bring supplies along. Time to have a chat with Terry or Lorraine and see if there isn't some equally deserving village along your route who could benefit equally from your and your fellow passengers' kindness. The on board pilots are locals - perhaps they know of such a spot. Thinking ahead of your route from my recollection Santarem or Manaus itself could be options.

 

Just a suggestion...

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It's rather sad that things have changed so much in 3 years, but then it's probably an affirmation that the cruise ship industry can improve the fortunes of a single village, and that's a good thing.

 

But what to do with your donations? Now I doubt very much you are the only passenger who was thoughtful enough to bring supplies along. Time to have a chat with Terry or Lorraine and see if there isn't some equally deserving village along your route who could benefit equally from your and your fellow passengers' kindness. The on board pilots are locals - perhaps they know of such a spot. Thinking ahead of your route from my recollection Santarem or Manaus itself could be options.

 

Just a suggestion...

 

Great suggestion!

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It's rather sad that things have changed so much in 3 years, but then it's probably an affirmation that the cruise ship industry can improve the fortunes of a single village, and that's a good thing.

 

But what to do with your donations? Now I doubt very much you are the only passenger who was thoughtful enough to bring supplies along. Time to have a chat with Terry or Lorraine and see if there isn't some equally deserving village along your route who could benefit equally from your and your fellow passengers' kindness. The on board pilots are locals - perhaps they know of such a spot. Thinking ahead of your route from my recollection Santarem or Manaus itself could be options.

 

Just a suggestion...

It is a great suggestion. I did talk to Lorraine after getting back on the ship after our tour in Santarem, and she was at a loss as to how to handle a gift exchange. She suggested that I might try just taking them off in Manaus and seeing if there was someone there to give them to. I wish I'd have thought about it ahead of time, and I'd have taken them on the boat tour with me today to give to the boat captain...I feel quite sure he could have found people who could use them.

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Looks like there would have definitely been places in Santarem, if you had known. If you have internet access, you might want to try to do your own research and see if you can find a charity at your next stop or two.

Internet on board is hit or miss, and honestly, I am a bit done with trying to find a way to get these items to the villagers. I had followed the suggestions of others who had obviously been to Boca da Valeria prior to the villagers leaving it, and brought these things with me in the hopes I could do some good for the people here. But no good deed goes unpunished, and I really just want to concentrate on enjoying the rest of this trip. I'm sorry if that sounds selfish, but I really did try. I just wanted others to know the situation so they could do more research before heading out on their trip.

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We hit the first of a couple "Meeting of the Waters" this morning at about 8:30 as we pulled into Santarem. The Amazon itself is very murky and brown, but other rivers that run into (or off of) it are much cleaner. So when the Amazon met up with the Tapajos River right outside of Santarem, it was pretty amazing to see the brown water just "bump up" right against the clean water. Mike and I even cut our workouts short to head up to Deck 12 for pictures and videos.

 

After that we embarked on our boat tour to Maica Lake. It's not so much of a lake as a tributary off the Amazon, but we got to see some sloths, iguanas, and even caught a few piranhas off the boat. Surprisingly enough, even though it was 94 outside, it wasn't unpleasant thanks to the breeze. It wasn't until we got back on the ship that we really felt the heat.

 

I have to give a word of warning to anyone thinking about doing this trip who has breathing issues (asthma, COPD, etc). There is a significant amount of smoke in the Amazon, and it's not just from controlled burns out in the jungle. Our guide today told us that they burn their trash in Santarem, and that's why the city is so smoky. Usually the smoke just smells like wood, but it was different today when we pulled into Santarem. But either way, you will smell smoke and you will feel it if you are sensitive to it, as there are burns all up and down the river. Our guide told us that this is the dry season and they are burning the "fields" to get ready for the crops and the rainy season. So if you do this itinerary in the spring, it might not be so bad. But there are lots of fires in the dry season, in preparation for planting crops in the rainy season.

 

Santarem itself looks to be a fairly industrial city, although we did not go into the city itself because of our tour. The tour was nicely done, with a tug boat bringing a barge-like platform directly to the ship so we could just get on our little boats directly from the ship. There were some 317 passengers on the morning tour...almost half the ship!! We had 10 little boats spread out over several minutes and it was well handled. Kudos to the Destinations folks for that one.

 

Bugs have not been a problem at all yet, but apparently most of them come out at night, so the ship will be running without all the deck lights you normally see. Tomorrow is Boca da Valeria, and we've been told that we may tender close by or it might be further out, based strictly on the conditions of the river.

 

Tonight is another Brazilian gaucho show, but I'm not sure we're going to go. We are going to do room service because we are trying to catch up on so many things (Mike still works, so he cannot be off his computer for very long). It's all good...in fact, we enjoy relaxing in the cabin sometimes. It's nice to just kick back and enjoy! Oh, and by the way, we placed first in both the Name that Tune competition (thanks to our trivia team experts) and the Liars Club game. Let me tell you, there are some people on this ship who are NOT happy with us!!!!

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Looks like there would have definitely been places in Santarem, if you had known. If you have internet access, you might want to try to do your own research and see if you can find a charity at your next stop or two.

We did speak to a bartender last night in the Horizons Lounge who is from Brazil. He said that we would be able to deliver our supplies in Parintins, and they would be greatly appreciated. I'm going to try to talk to him again before we get there to see if he has any specifics as to who to deliver them to, or how. The quest to do something good for others continues!!!!

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Internet on board is hit or miss, and honestly, I am a bit done with trying to find a way to get these items to the villagers. I had followed the suggestions of others who had obviously been to Boca da Valeria prior to the villagers leaving it, and brought these things with me in the hopes I could do some good for the people here. But no good deed goes unpunished, and I really just want to concentrate on enjoying the rest of this trip. I'm sorry if that sounds selfish, but I really did try. I just wanted others to know the situation so they could do more research before heading out on their trip.

 

Just one more suggestion that you may want to consider - I know that on our cruise some of the crew members we busy shopping for holiday gifts to be sent to their children back home - maybe you can donate the items to the crew who can then include them in the holiday gift boxes. I saw some crew at local post offices sending boxes but I am sure that there are still many more going out.

 

Just a thought -

 

gnomie :)

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We did speak to a bartender last night in the Horizons Lounge who is from Brazil. He said that we would be able to deliver our supplies in Parintins, and they would be greatly appreciated. I'm going to try to talk to him again before we get there to see if he has any specifics as to who to deliver them to, or how. The quest to do something good for others continues!!!!

 

I know that you were trying not to think about it anymore but love the bartender's suggestion. Despite the touristy aspects of some places in the Amazon, life there is difficult at best. Your quest to do something good for others is wonderful and it sounds like you will succeed.

 

Quick question, I know that you aren't a doctor but a friend of ours is on oxygen and, from what you and others have said about smoke, I'm beginning to think that this may not be the best place for her to go. She also has walking difficulties (associated with not having enough oxygen to walk very far). Are the Amazon excursions difficult in terms of walking while rolling an oxygen tank behind you?

 

Thanks so much and continue to enjoy this great adventure!

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Are the Amazon excursions difficult in terms of walking while rolling an oxygen tank behind you?

 

I would be quite shocked if anyone is traveling with an oxygen tank, which can be quite heavy, depending on the size. No commercial aircraft, and for that matter, in all likelihood Regent would allow an actual oxygen tank on board due to the fire risk- most patients who require supplemental oxygen use what is referred to as an "oxygen concentrator", which takes oxygen from the atmosphere, removes the nitrogen and delivers oxygen. Depending on the model, they are either wheeled on placed in a backpack and weigh substantially less (depending on the battery) than oxygen tanks.

 

I have known of people denied boarding for trying to board with oxygen tanks.

 

gnomie :)

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