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Cruise Critic on Viking Polaris! Jan. 18-30


Cruise Critic Chris
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"Follow along as our Executive Editor reports back from her Viking Polaris trip!"

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Hi all! I'm writing from the Buenos Aires Hilton. My Viking Polaris trip "officially" starts today. I came in early for a few days vacation in BA. 

 

As it is for everyone, this cruise will be an adventure of a lifetime! Through my work here at Cruise Critic, I have read and edited many stories about Antarctica cruising, and sent many writers to the White Continent. But this is the first time that I get to go! 

 

There is a fairly large press group on this trip, and two representatives from Viking. Please let me know if you have any specific questions. I will try to post photos of the daily programs as well. All internet permitting! 

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I'm not going to get too much into my vacation, unless people have specific questions about things to do in BA. This is my third time here but first time for my husband. 

 

We are at the Hilton Buenos Aires, which is generally the hotel that Viking uses. Viking arranged it so we did not have to change rooms - highly appreciated. This hotel is used for quite a few groups as a pre-stay before Antarctica trips - I saw Hurtigruten. Tauck and Globus info behind the front desk. Viking seems to be upgrading people to the 8th floor, which is nice because you get access to the executive lounge, which has breakfast and Happy Hour snacks. 

 

The Hilton is in Puerto Madero, which is lively and has many restaurants along the river. It's not as good for sightseeing - it's a walk to San Telmo and you'll need to take a taxi or uber if you want to visit neighborhoods like Recoleta or Palermo. Uber has worked just fine for us. 

 

BA this time of year is quite warm - 85 degrees F. So we had to pack clothes for the heat, in addition to our cold-weather gear. I kept all my BA clothes separate in packing cubes in my carryon, which meant I didn't really have to disturb my cruise bag. 

 

We have spent our time exploring and taking various tours. Sunday, we went to the San Telmo Antiques Market, and enjoyed watching the tango dancers there. Monday we took a tour with Context, one of my favorite tour providers, that gave us a deep dive into Peronism; we were mostly in Recoleta for this. We also had a fabulous parrilla (steakhouse) lunch in Palermo.  Tuesday we did a day trip to Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay booked through Viator. And today, we're eating steak again on a food tour in San Telmo with Parrilla Tours.   

 

I'll add a few hotel photos later today. 

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Cruise Critic Chris, so happy you will be reporting on your expedition experience!   Looking forward to any info on how the landings and activities are handled.  My Viking indicates that “activities will be scheduled daily and you will be informed on board”.  Hoping to hear that you are able to do all the activities you want to do.  Have a great trip!
 

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A few photos of the Hilton and surrounding area. Puerto Madero is not super close to main sightseeing but it is safe and there are plenty of restaurants nearby along the river. Uber is easy to use. 

 

Most people checked in today. There was a Viking desk in the front lobby, where you received info about your airport transfer times. We are in a group leaving the hotel at 5:30 am. Bags out for collection at 8 pm tonight. 

 

 

 

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27 minutes ago, Frenchberet said:

Cruise Critic Chris, so happy you will be reporting on your expedition experience!   Looking forward to any info on how the landings and activities are handled.  My Viking indicates that “activities will be scheduled daily and you will be informed on board”.  Hoping to hear that you are able to do all the activities you want to do.  Have a great trip!
 

 

We did sign up for the sub ride, the kayaking, the SOB and landings. But I know this is one trip where things definitely depend on the weather. I am ready to take it as it comes! 

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Here is the schedule for the charter flights between BA and Ushuaia: Transfers for the first flight began at 4 am, the last flight at 6:10 am. We were in the happy middle group. Note: these were assigned randomly; you do not sign up for a time. 

 

There's a cold breakfast buffet set up that morning, along with small bags to take away. The process to get on the buses was very smooth. 

 

You receive your boarding pass for the domestic flight on the bus. 

 

 

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On 1/18/2023 at 6:03 AM, Cruise Critic Chris said:

Hi all! I'm writing from the Buenos Aires Hilton. My Viking Polaris trip "officially" starts today. I came in early for a few days vacation in BA. 

 

As it is for everyone, this cruise will be an adventure of a lifetime! Through my work here at Cruise Critic, I have read and edited many stories about Antarctica cruising, and sent many writers to the White Continent. But this is the first time that I get to go! 

 

There is a fairly large press group on this trip, and two representatives from Viking. Please let me know if you have any specific questions. I will try to post photos of the daily programs as well. All internet permitting! 

Envious!  
 

Would love an update on the repairs to the cabins damaged by the rogue wave. 

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Boarded the ship yesterday in Ushuaia. We were onboard around noon, and cabins opened at 1. Back onboard time was 4 pm and the ship left about an hour later. There was definitely enough time to get your passport stamped at the Ushuaia tourism office. 

 

I am in room 4003, a Nordic Penthouse. It's plenty spacious, although I did prefer the expanded balcony room I had on Seabourn Venture two months ago. The drying closet is great, though! The gear that you ordered in advance was already in there but don't worry, if anything doesn't fit, you can exchange (I'll write about that separately). USB ports by the bed. Heated floors in the bathroom. Our phone does not work: as we found when I tried to order room service, but we've been told it will get fixed. 

 

 A few shots. 

 

 

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I forgot to mention the flight down. You do not get to choose your seat, although it does seem that the line puts people together in the same row, with no one else. Even though you are given a zone, you don't board that way - it's a bit of a free for all. 

 

The biggest problem with this was the carryon situation. Many people were toward the front and had no overhead bin space, forcing you to go to the back of the plane to stash your bag. We ended up moving to a seat back there so it would be easier to get off. The plane wasn't full so we were allowed to do this. People were putting things like coats and purses above and refusing to move them for larger bags. A bit more control here, and a bit less entitlement among the passengers, would have gone a long way. 

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Checking in to the ship was very easy. I had copies of everything - my express check in; my medical form - but no one asked me for it. 

 

Once you check in, you go and get weighed if you're signed up for a sub ride; you also sign a waiver. Then you are seamlessly directed to your safety briefing. All very smooth. 

 

Your first gathering as a group after the ship leaves goes over submarine and kayak safety. The kayak test is the next day. 

 

 

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Our first night was very uneventful. I went to the spa and had a soak; no one was there. For our first meal; I did room service and did the Chairman's Special salmon. As good as is it on other ships! 

 

The entertainment was a movie about whales: which we skipped. 

 

First day dailies attached. The ship has stressed that you really need to check your app, though, as things can change.

 

Sailing through the Beagle Channel was lovely. Very calm. Sunset was around 10 pm., about the same time we entered the Drake. 

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So, the dreaded Drake! I brought four types of seasickness remedies with me, just in case - the patch; bonine; seabands and ginger candies. I almost never get seasick but my husband does. 

 

If you want to stalk Drake weather, use the app Windy.com. It had been showing green for our trip, and the captain confirmed it at the first briefing. Drake Lake; it is! 

 

That doesn't mean you won't get any swells. My husband, who is more susceptible, took Bonine. But our entire first two days sailing look to be very calm. 

 

 

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We woke up on our first day in the Drake with quite a busy schedule. There are two lectures today, one on mammals and one on birds. Plus the kayak test and a time to go get your gear "bio-protected." More on that. 

 

First the kayak test. They brought us down to the Hangar and we were told the best way to get from the zodiacs into the kayak. Everyone passed. That being said, if you have mobility issues, this is likely not the activity for you. 

 

 

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The next event was the required biosecurity check. Because Antarctica is such a specific and protected environment, all of your outdoor gear needs to be treated to make sure you aren't bringing any spores or seeds with you. 

 

It's also a time to exchange your gear if it doesn't fit. My pants and jacket were both too small, and my husband needed smaller boots. I was a bit worried I wouldn't get the size I need. But it ended up being an easy process. I now have what I need to be comfortable. As a reminder; Viking gives you a parka with an under jacket, waterproof pants (Helly Hansen) and boots. You get to keep the parka/jacket. 

 

 

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Oh my--I was thinking the kayak test would be a bit more rigorous--like proving you could paddle a certain distance, or be able to right the kayak and climb back in if it tips over in the water.  I am guessing life preservers are a requirement. Are the jacket and pants waterproof at all? What is the average water temperature?

 

Sounds like a great adventure that my DH would totally love--he has his own kayak, and he is scuba certified.  He also can tolerate cold weather much better than me.  Have a wonderful time!

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Really enjoying your reports, thank you.  Glad to hear you were able to exchange your gear.  We ordered based on our measurements but not 100% sure how unisex equates to regular sizing.  Please let us know you dress for the landings - long underwear, pants, boot socks, gloves?  Enjoy your adventure!

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20 hours ago, LibertyBella said:

Oh my--I was thinking the kayak test would be a bit more rigorous--like proving you could paddle a certain distance, or be able to right the kayak and climb back in if it tips over in the water.  I am guessing life preservers are a requirement. Are the jacket and pants waterproof at all? What is the average water temperature?

 

Sounds like a great adventure that my DH would totally love--he has his own kayak, and he is scuba certified.  He also can tolerate cold weather much better than me.  Have a wonderful time!

 

I'll suggest the SOP, if someone tips the Kayak, does not include getting back onboard. The RHIB will be tasked with hauling you out the water, as being salt water, the temperature could be less the OC/32F, even as low as -2C/28F.

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On 1/18/2023 at 6:03 AM, Cruise Critic Chris said:

Hi all! I'm writing from the Buenos Aires Hilton. My Viking Polaris trip "officially" starts today. I came in early for a few days vacation in BA. 

 

As it is for everyone, this cruise will be an adventure of a lifetime! Through my work here at Cruise Critic, I have read and edited many stories about Antarctica cruising, and sent many writers to the White Continent. But this is the first time that I get to go! 

 

There is a fairly large press group on this trip, and two representatives from Viking. Please let me know if you have any specific questions. I will try to post photos of the daily programs as well. All internet permitting! 

I too am enjoying your posts and hope you are having too much fun to post.

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