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Protection For The Camera Due To Cold Weather


Keith1010
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In mid-August we will be taking a cruise of the Northwest Passage.

 

The temperature lows will be in the 30's (F) and highs 40's and 50's in several ports and of course there will be other days where we are at sea.

 

I will have both of my Nikon DSLR's with me; including D810.

 

In terms of the cold is there anything I should be concerned about in terms of the operation of the camera.

 

Also, for the lens I always use lens filters but is there any advantage in terms of photo quality using any special filters other than standard filters.

 

Thank you in advance for suggestions.

 

This board is always so very helpful.

 

Thanks,

Keith

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First thing that comes to mind is the battery. Keep a spare battery in your pocket where body heat will keep it warm. I was able to take pictures of a friend in a ski hill. Big moment came up and the battery died in the cold water. Back home... the battery had juice. Huh.

 

Second thing that comes to mind... temperature changes. In dry weather, it should not be a problem. But if the ship interior is humid.... like taking a cold soda from the fridge and finding condensation on it minutes later in the summer.... your camera can be coated with condensation. Lens fungus is my next concern.

 

Filters? There's good filters and there's cheap filters. Take a picture with your filters and some without.... Do some pixel peeping with your computer. Check out the sharpness to see if it bothers you.

 

To clarify.... what "special filters" will you have? Assuming one is a polarizer to minimize reflections.

Edited by xlxo
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Keith, I had no problems with my Nikon D7000 from the cold in Antarctica, where the temps were in the 30s, and wind chills even lower. (Nor any problems in typical winter weather in North America at those temps and lower.)

 

As noted above, batteries (can) lose their power faster in the cold, so have some spares and keep them close to your body where they will stay warm. That said, my Nikon batteries all performed really well. (Before our trip, I'd read a lot of advice to take some packets of chemical hand warmers and keep them with the spare batteries. Never had to use one of them.)

 

Have a great trip!

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Thank you all for the suggestions.

 

I will be sure to take a spare battery for each camera with me when we are off the ship something I normally don't do but makes great sense. I will also go with the suggestions and keep them in a warm area such as inside my fleece pocket that will be underneath a water proof jacket. Zip Lock is a good idea and I have also purchased a water proof bag.

 

Thank you all again and I welcome any and all suggestions.

 

Keith

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As above, 30's is nothing. Won't hurt to keep extra batteries in your inner pocket, of course, but it shouldn't be a major problem.

 

Wind chill is irrelevant as far as the camera is concerned. It's an expression of quickly exposed skin cools, "as if it were that temperature" -- it's not an actual temperature anything will reach.

 

Condensation shouldn't be much of an issue taking a warm camera out into the cold. I'd be more concerned taking a cold camera into a warm humid environment. Either direction, a big bag until temps have normalized isn't a bad idea.

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As above, 30's is nothing. Won't hurt to keep extra batteries in your inner pocket, of course, but it shouldn't be a major problem.

 

Wind chill is irrelevant as far as the camera is concerned. It's an expression of quickly exposed skin cools, "as if it were that temperature" -- it's not an actual temperature anything will reach.

 

Condensation shouldn't be much of an issue taking a warm camera out into the cold. I'd be more concerned taking a cold camera into a warm humid environment. Either direction, a big bag until temps have normalized isn't a bad idea.

Thanks for the info.

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As someone who does a ton of astronomical imaging via telescope on cold nights, spare batteries are key.

 

As for the bag idea- I will bring the cameras inside sealed in a zipper bag with some silica gel packs to absorb moisture. I rarely have issues with condensation unless it's super cold out. Even in Iceland in February a few years ago I didn't have a ton of trouble.

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Thank you all for the wonderful information.

 

This is very helpful as we prepare for the very unique adventure of sailing the Northwest Passage.

 

I have several take aways which I will use.

 

Now as someone who likes heat over cold my challenge is also protecting myself. LOL.

 

We have ordered a bunch of clothing so hopefully that will help including keeping hands warm although they will likely get a bit chilly when I am taking loads of photos.

 

Keep the ideas coming.

 

The photo side on Cruise Critic has so many helpful people.

 

Thank you.

 

Keith

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As a backpacker who grew up in snow country, I also know a little about that topic as well.

 

The concept of layering not only refers to being able to adjust how much you have on, but more importantantly refers to what layers you should wear and their individual functions. First is the base layer; it should be a wicking fabric that doesn't hold moisture. Next is the insulation layer; this is the part that helps you stay warm. Lots of options ranging from down to synthetic fill, fleece can be a good option. Doesn't hurt to add a couple thinner insulation layers to give you options for adjusting over the day. Finally is the outer shell layer that blocks wind and rain while remaining breathable either by virtue of the fabric itself or by the use of vents or similar. You can find garments that merge one or more of these layers such as a "soft shell" jacket.

 

As you're looking at your clothing options, use the above info to figure out your strategy. I personally find that if I focus on keeping my core warm I need less protection on my extremeties. I'm a fan of vests, fleece or down, coupled with a mid-weight packable jacket and a packable rain jacket. This gives a good range from shirt, to vest + jacket + rain-jacket with the outer two being able to be packed away simply. Add a fleece beanie / watchcap and lightweight gloves and I'm good for a wide range of conditions.

 

BTW - from a photography standpoint, look at gloves made for runners. They tend to be thinner than typical department store gloves, still allowing easy manipulation of camera controls, while also offering some protection from the cold.

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gpb11, thank you for your thoughts.

 

The good news is that our cruise line has patterned with a company that specializes in clothing for cold areas such as Antarctica or in our case the Northwest Passage. They had an extensive list of items including recommendations. We believe we have all of the necessary layers. We have also sailed some cold weather itineraries and while we still had to purchase quite a few items we did have some items to begin with.

 

Thank you again for all of your recommendations.

 

They are very much appreciated.

 

Keith

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As someone who does a ton of astronomical imaging via telescope on cold nights, spare batteries are key.

 

As for the bag idea- I will bring the cameras inside sealed in a zipper bag with some silica gel packs to absorb moisture. I rarely have issues with condensation unless it's super cold out. Even in Iceland in February a few years ago I didn't have a ton of trouble.

Thanks for this, useful info.

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Officially the recommended temp ranges for a D810 are:

 

Operating/Storage Temperature Operating

32 to 104°F (0 to 40°C)

Humidity: 0 - 85%

 

But that's really for warranty purposes only. In reality, a professional level Nikon won't even flinch at temps at or a bit below freezing.

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We were given this for an Antarctica cruise which might be a help for you

 

Below are suggestions for the Antarctic Photographic Gear

 

1. Bring extra memory cards, especially if you are not bringing a laptop computer to download

images. For photographers who will be taking lots of photos, we recommend that a laptop be

brought for downloading. For those who are major shutter-bugs, the addition of an external

hard-drive is advisable. Don't forget any cables required.

 

2. A camera bag, either shoulder or back-pack style with compartments for accessories, would

be very useful if you are carrying a large camera with a variety of lenses. Smaller point-and-

shoot cameras can be carried in a pocket or on a strap around the neck inside your parka.

 

3. Always have a wrist or neck strap attached to your camera, which will help to avoid the

camera being dropped onto the ship deck or into the sea.

 

4. Consider the weight of photo equipment that you plan to carry on walks ashore. Lighter is

better than heavier.

 

5. Waterproofing your camera equipment is essential. While Zodiac cruising from ship to shore

at some point there will be salt-water spray perhaps even the odd wave; and while on shore

there could be snow or sleet. At the very least bring along several large Zip-lock plastic bags for

your gear. Depending upon the size of your camera bag, you might consider purchasing a "dry-

bag" available at camera shops and camping stores, large enough to hold your camera bag.

 

6. If you will be using a style of camera bag that requires you to set it down to access

equipment, you should consider bringing along a few large garbage bags. These are useful to

put on the ground to keep your camera bag and gear free of penguin guano and mud when in

the rookeries. Additionally, you can also use the bags as waterproofing for your camera bag or

backpack during Zodiac crossings.

 

7. A tripod can be useful for the serious photographer while ashore. A tripod is not practical for

use onboard the ship, nor the Zodiacs.

 

8. A bean bag, while on the ship, will be the most useful item of all for those guests who

photograph with a digital SLR, especially when using longer lenses. A 12" square beanbag

placed on the ship's rail minimizes the vibration from the ship's engine and provides stability

from wind. In addition it supports the camera and lens, so you don't have the fatigue of holding

the equipment for long time spans while watching icebergs. For economy of weight, we fly with

our bean bags empty, and purchase popcorn kernels in the port where we embark the ship.

Popcorn is superior to beans, as the angularity of the kernels interlock to give solidity.

 

9. Many digital cameras have a built-in flash. If your camera is a SLR that requires an external

flash, be sure to bring a flash with you. In addition to use while aboard ship, the flash will be

useful outdoors. Flash renders feather detail on penguin breasts three-dimensional, and put

catch-lights in albatrosses' eyes. Flash allows a seal with its dark fur to stand-off from the

background; it also fills detail into shadows in harsh light conditions.

 

10. Bring extra batteries, rechargeable if possible, and bring the charger. Battery power is

consumed faster when temperatures are cold. When ashore, carry an extra battery in an inside

pocket where your body keeps it warm. Then should your camera run out of power, you have a

back-up ready to go.

 

11. For the SLR camera user, we suggest a UV or Skylight filter for each of your lenses. The filter

primarily is useful to protect your lens rather than a means of obtaining better image quality.

Today's sensors already have a UV filter compensation. The filter is inexpensive compared to the

lens, and should you get salt spray, snow, dirt, whatever, on the filter, you can clean it off

without fear of scratching, or permanently damaging your expensive lens. Note, when flying, it is

advisable to loosen all filters. Differences in air pressure can cause a filter to shatter, no matter

what the quality of the glass.

 

12. A polarizer filter will definitely come in handy to enhance scenic photographs, just as

polarizing sunglasses can cut reflected glare on a sunny day.

 

13. Choice of lenses for a digital SLR is a personal decision based upon how much weight one is

willing to carry and how money one is prepared to spend. With a point-and-shoot or iPad, you

don't need to make such decisions, as the lens is fixed and built in. For most purposes, for the

digital SLR, a range of lens between 24mm and 300mm will serve very well. This could be a

combination of two zoom lenses, or a zoom and a fixed lens. For our use in the field we use the

24-105mm zoom, the 70- 200mm zoom, a fixed 50mm (for ariels), a fixed 300mm lens along

with a "doubler" that transforms this lens into a 600mm. The same double can be used on the

200mm transforming it to a 400mm.

 

14. For everyone, cleaning supplies would include lens cleaning tissue, and/or the "magic cloth"

used for eyeglasses. For the camera buff with expensive equipment, we'd also advise to bring

along a camel-hair air-brush combined with a blower, available at camera shops. Devices to

clean sensors would not be advised unless the photographer is well used to using such things,

as sensors can be damaged easily.

 

15. For everyone fingerless gloves can be useful so as to keep hands warm, while still allowing

dexterity to operate a camera. A very thin pair of gloves can be worn beneath a larger, fingerless

glove to give additional warm without compromising dexterity.

 

I didn't have any troubles with batteries at all going ashore for the 4 or 5 days we were at Antarctica early Jan

minus 3 I seem to remember

And it was the bestest cruise we have ever done

Edited by Thecat123
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We were given this for an Antarctica cruise which might be a help for you

 

Below are suggestions for the Antarctic Photographic Gear ...

 

 

 

8. A bean bag, while on the ship, will be the most useful item of all for those guests who

photograph with a digital SLR, especially when using longer lenses. A 12" square beanbag

placed on the ship's rail minimizes the vibration from the ship's engine and provides stability

from wind. In addition it supports the camera and lens, so you don't have the fatigue of holding

the equipment for long time spans while watching icebergs. For economy of weight, we fly with

our bean bags empty, and purchase popcorn kernels in the port where we embark the ship.

Popcorn is superior to beans, as the angularity of the kernels interlock to give solidity.

 

 

Thanks for posting the (excellent) list; having also been to Antarctica, it was fun to read through it as it brought back incredible memories. I had to smile at the popcorn kernel advice, though. Imagine running around Ushuaia looking for unpopped popcorn! :)

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Thanks for posting the (excellent) list; having also been to Antarctica, it was fun to read through it as it brought back incredible memories. I had to smile at the popcorn kernel advice, though. Imagine running around Ushuaia looking for unpopped popcorn! :)

 

There was a couple of professional photographers on board and I didn't see them using any popcorn bags :)

I would think that maybe a smaller, older, ship than Seaborns Quest, which we were on, there might be trouble with vibration and cameras

There was talk on the cruise that people could put their best photos onto a memory stick to join everyones together to share but that word privacy came in so it didn't happen.

Maybe Keith might look at doing this with some of his other passengers as they could be times when Keith isn't around and his friends got some good shots. Ships might not want you to use the ships computers to do this as this is where the privacy comes in with passengers faces on the photos

But on the last night of our cruise we were given a memory stick with about 15 minutes of photos taken by the professionals for free so it was certainly made up to us

I was thinking that their photos would have been put on the photographer's site for sale but we got the photos for free

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Thecat123, nice idea about sharing photos.

 

On a long cruise I was on last year some of us shared photos via air drop.

 

I will followup with others about sharing our photos on this Northwest Passage Cruise.

 

Keith

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In mid-August we will be taking a cruise of the Northwest Passage.

 

The temperature lows will be in the 30's (F) and highs 40's and 50's in several ports and of course there will be other days where we are at sea.

 

 

 

Thanks,

Keith

 

I have used my cameras w/o problems except for moisture condensation when you go inside in -30 degree F conditions. A temperature of +30 is not cold..

 

DON

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