Discover 7 Continents with Bill & Mary Ann as we sail on the 2012 World Cruise

[cruiseman111111]

This is the 3rd or so trip of yours I have followed. You ought to write a book, I would buy it.

 

I just fineshed report 15, and need to go to bed, can't keep my eyes open.

 

Jim

[WCB]

Report # 23 January 23, 2012 Monday Buenos Aires, Argentina Day One Part One

 

Last night after dinner, we had a letter waiting for us in our room warning us that there has been an increase in the number of gastrointestinal illness on the Amsterdam as well as other cruise ships sailing in this area. Now it was not announced that we have gone into the red zone, but it is obvious we have. The letter indicated several steps we would need to take in order to stop this contagious disease from spreading. Basically, we had to be careful what we ate off of the ship, and we would need to wash and disinfect our hands often. Sounds simple, but we are sorry to say not all the folks adhere to this advice.

 

What goes on behind the scenes is interesting too. You know how we are last to leave the dining room? Well, the waiters were preparing the tables and chairs to be sprayed with disinfectant. Further steps being utilized were the spraying of the elevators, stairwells, and the hallways. And even more revealing was what happened around 2:30am when we heard the sound of what sounded like a vacuum cleaner in the hallway outside our room. We can assume that the penetrating "bombs" were being used to sterilize every nook and cranny. We can't say for sure what was used, because there was no way we were going to stick our heads outside our room. The most important thing is if it works to kill these nasty germs, it is worth it.

 

In the meantime, we have been requested to "turn ourselves in" if we experience the symptoms of this flu, where we would be confined to our rooms for 48 or more hours. And to further complicate the matter, tomorrow we will be getting 200 or so new guests, and possibly new germs to share. Oh boy.

 

Ok, the good news is that the Amsterdam sailed into the huge working port of Buenos Aires, Argentina around 8am today. Buenos Aires (meaning good air) is the capital of the country and has a population of millions of people of mixed nationalities. The main language is Spanish, although many the citizens have European backrounds such as Italian, German, Spanish, and Jewish to name a few. And because of this fact, the feeling and ambience of Argentina is a sharp contrast to the country of Brazil that we just left. And we would be treated to a taste of this city with a tour we booked through our travel agency named, "Buenos Aires Highlites, Recoleta, Cafe' Tortoni, & Subway Ride"

 

There was the biggest mess with incoming and outgoing passengers in the cruise terminal this morning. Including us, there were five big cruise ships docked here today. Our small group met in the Ocean Bar to be "stickered" with a bus number, then led off of the ship, through the terminal, and eventually to our waiting coach. Sounds easy, but with thousands of people crammed in the terminal building, we couldn't even find our way through it to get to the buses. This was the perfect opportunity to test the new VOX tour guide system our hosts, Tom and Ellen, have provided for all their clients who go on their excursions. We all received our earpiece that plugs into the box before we boarded the ship. Ellen then provides the box that is on a lanyard to hang around our necks. Once plugged in, we have direct contact with our tour guide, and can hear everything he or she is saying. And no one can get lost. However, this morning we suggested later, that it would have been a good idea to get plugged in before we leave the ship. As it turned out, our group got split in two, and it took some time to get us all together. From now on, we shall be prepared from the start. What a great idea....thanks Tom and Ellen for this suggestion to use this system.

 

Getting out of the port area was not an easy job for the bus drivers today. There were demonstrations happening in several places, where the streets had been closed off to traffic. We could see piles of tires burning and the police surrounding the demonstrators. We were told that these were homeless people fighting over their free electricity being shut off at night. Anyway, we went in circles for a while until we broke through a side street and were on our way, finally.

 

We had to sacrifice some of our tour that would have driven us past the Botanical Gardens, the Horse Track, and the National Polo Fields, since we had lost so much time already. We all wanted the chance to see the Recoleta area, where the Recoleta Cemetary houses the famous mausoleum that entombs Eva Peron, the wife of former President Juan Peron. She was the rags-to-riches legend who was responsible for bringing women out of the dark ages, and given a voice to better themselves. She died at the young age of 33, even though some of Argentina's elite resented her, she was loved by many. Surprisingly, her family crypt was very conservative in this revered cemetary.

 

Our ride took us to the city's famous Avenida de Mayo, the world's widest avenue in the world. It is true that you cannot walk across this avenue without stopping in the middle to wait for another light to change. This is where the Obelisk and the Colon Theater are built. We continued on to the Plaza de Mayo where the government house, Casa Rosada, the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Government House or Casa Rosada, and thr Colonial Bastion lone the square. There was no time to explore these buildings, but we did not mind, since we were here two years ago and saw them in depth.

 

From here, our guide led us to the Subte, the very first subway line to operate in the southern hemisphere. Even some of the original wooden wagons are still used. We went down the escalator, which stopped for no reason, then waited to hop in to the next car to arrive. The subway pass worked just like BART, our mass transit system in the San Francisco area. The ride was short, but got us to our next stop at another city treasure called Cafe Tortoni. It is a landmark cafe that has been here since 1858. Many musicians and politicians frequented this historical building over the years. Today it was our turn to relax in the rich, wooden-trimmed room and enjoy a cup of strong coffee with our plate of ham and cheese sandwiches and delicious fresh-baked croissants. We shared a small table with Barbie and our guide, who decided to join us. We loved that, since we could ask him scores of questions, which he happily answered. We would have liked to linger here a bit longer, but time was flying by, and we still had more to see on our way back to the pier.

 

We drove through the San Telmo area, where colorful houses lined the narrow streets. We believe that this is where the famous dance, the tango, originated in the brothels of the poorer suburbs of the city. But we can tell you more about that later.

 

All in all, it was a great tour, and ended better once we got back to the terminal. By then, most of the intransit guests had either headed for home or boarded the waiting ships. Since this port is located in the middle of the container area, it was necessary to take shuttles, which took us from the terminal to the ship. Walking is prohibited in this port, so riding back and forth is mandatory. It was so warm and steamy that we did not mind the ride.

 

Since we had booked a dinner and tango show at 8pm, we snacked on cheeseburgers (our first since we boarded). Then we spent the remainder of the afternoon sunning and swimming in the aft pool until it was time to leave once again.

 

To be continued.............................

[amster65]

Cant wait for part two. Stay clear of those nasty Gastro Bugs:mad:

[JamesEM]

Enjoy reading your reports, hopefully the code red will be over soon.

[WCB]

Report # 24 January 23, 2012 Monday Buenos Aires, Argentina Day One Part Two

 

By 7:45pm, we met with Ellen and our group of 48 to go to the much anticipated tango dinner and show. Forty-eight of us could have been squeezed into one bus, but our travel agency never does that. We had two coaches with comfortable seats and lots of legroom. That's one reason we like to book our tours with them, if possible. And besides, it's always nicer to go with some folks we know. There were some new guests in our group this evening, but that would change with the course of the night.

 

Anyway, here are a few facts about the tango, which originated in the brothels of the poorer sections at the end of the 19th century. Because of its raw and earthy nature, it was adopted by the gangsters and other criminals who made up these areas. Men actually practiced the dance with each other in a macho way, reminding us of the way our rooster chickens dance around each other sometimes. For that reason, it was considered aggressive and sexy, but scandalous. However, when this dance craze reached Paris, it became the rage and was actually considered an art form, which we should discover tonight.

 

We were lucky enough to be guests of the Carlos Gardel's Tango House tonight. He was one of the most popular artists of the dance from 1935 to 1952. Since the 60's, this dance transformed into a fusion of old-style tango, mixed with jazz.

 

We were seated in the large theater at dining tables, along with dozens of other groups and locals. The first order of the night was to have our photo taken with two of the dancers, which of course, was for sale later on. Menus were passed out, and we found that we had a choice of five appetizers, six entrees, and at least five desserts. Wine, water, and soda were poured all evening. The meal was delicious, and we got to know two ladies we remembered from last year. One had just flown into Buenos Aires yesterday from Amsterdam, and her friend had come from Germany this morning. She was having a hard time staying awake due to jetlag. Come to think of it, the elderly gentleman across from her was having a hard time staying awake. How he slept through the music was a mystery to us. He embarressed wife kept giving him the elbow, but he never woke up.

 

The show began at 10:30pm, and it was spectacular. We had seats right in front for a change. The very talented dancers came out in groups, as well as couples. Each dance performance was better than the previous one. One of the acts included the tango with gymnastics. At one point, we thought the lace-clad girl dancer was going to be thrown in the middle of our table. It was so intense and precise, the audience cheered and clapped loudly. Each act was choreograghed to show the journey of the dance through the different stages of evolution. The costuming matched the era, as did the dancing. Although their outfits could not hold a candle to the ones we saw in the Brazilian samba show, they were equally as tasteful to fit this style of dancing. The performance lasted until well after midnight.

 

By the time we exited the building, it was raining pretty good. Luckily, we had brought the new umbrella, although the walk to the bus was only 15 feet from the showroom door. We got back to the ship before 1am, and realized we would have to be up at 6am the next morning for another tour. That is really a small detail to consider when booking these tours. This time, we forgot. But we will never forget this night, and we know the rest of our group will feel the same way.

 

It was raining really hard by the time we got off of the port shuttle. Thank goodness the new gangway was on deck A where we could run straight into the ship. Remember, this city is on a huge river, so when the ocean tide goes down, so does the river height and the gangway. Because of this, the gangway had to be moved several times during the course of our visit.

 

Tomorrow, we will tour on the waterways of Buenos Aires, if we can drag ourselves out of bed on time!

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[kazu]

Fantastic live reports - thank you:) We absolutely loved Buenos Aires - you have described it and tango so well - it brings back many memories. Thank you :)

[Aussie Gal]

I am enjoying reading your reports on Buenos Aires. Your visit yesterday around the city and to the Tango show brought back so many memories especially the photos taken with the dancers. I have a great one of my husband with one of the lady's legs wrapped around him!

 

We also did a river tour and visited the islands in the delta where so many of the holiday homes are situated. I look forward to reading where you visited and find out if it was in a similar area to where we went.

 

Jennie

[WCB]

Report # 25 January 24, 2012 Tuesday Buenos Aires, Argentina Day Two

 

Today's tour had us meeting in the Queens Lounge at 8am. Why that early, we have no idea, because it took us to a shopping mall that did not open until after 10am. These little facts are never revealed in the tour descriptions HAL gives us. We just trust that the tour times will be convenient to the itinerary. Not always that way.

 

We finally got to see the newer cruise terminal during the day emptied of all incoming and outgoing passengers. It was a very nice and large building with many seats available for the weary travelers. And it was also easier to find our waiting bus, which was right outside the glass doors. But when it comes to embarking here, we heard the wait was long and was unorganized. Usually HAL is good about speedy check-in, but you also have to depend on the local officials to be present and on time. This morning, they were not.

 

Our destination was the Tigre Delta, located about 30 kilometers from Buenos Aires. This area of 5000 waterways off of the Rio de la Plata, is a favorite vacation place for the local people. Since the boats did not start their tours until after 10am, we visited a high-class neighborhood of San Isidro first.

 

San Isidro is an older area, so the setting was full of small parks and many mature trees. The homes we walked past were built many years ago in a colonial style of architecture. They have been maintained nicely, although, we wondered how they like these buses dropping off the tourists for walk-bys every day. Actually, the only residents we spotted were of the dog species. Obviously, they were quite used to the foot traffic, since not one of them stirred or barked when we passed on by them.

 

At the end of one lovely street, we came upon a really nice church, but failed to note the name. Across the street from this church, was a mini shopping mall. Nothing was opened, except we did have access to bathrooms there. Perhaps that was the only reason for the stop (there was no mention of shopping in this tour description). If given the chance, people want to shop. Well at least the ladies do. There was hope for the ice cream shop, Freddo, to open for business. They did, and several of our group went inside to get a cup of the sweet treat. Who cared if it was only 10am? We did question the guide why we left so early from the pier, and she said she did not know why. They just follow what they are told, even though the timing was off.

 

Now we could head for the Delta and their islands that were situated in between the many rivers. The main river we would boat up was the Parana River, not a pretty river, but colored brownish from the sandy sediment. Really reminded us of the muddy Amazon River, just a lot smaller. Since the only transport to these sandbar islands was by boat, people have their supplies brought by special boats. We spotted a large riverboat stocked with food and bottles of water. Then as we boarded our boat, we saw lumber being transported from upriver towards the mouth and probably on its way to the process center. This small growth lumber is used for paper and plywood we were told.

 

We were treated to a pleasant one hour ride up the waterway. Many of the riverside houses were modestly-built, while others were elaborate. A very nice one happened to belong to the president at one time, and had been enclosed in a glass house to preserve it. Now it houses a museum. There was a carnival park built on the banks, which included a huge ferris wheel and a rollercoaster. They were in full swing, because the kids are out of school for their summer vacation now.

 

It was almost like being peeking Toms when we passed by the local residences. People were drinking coffee and reading papers on their docks or lawn areas. Quite often, our boat driver sped up, creating a big wave that actually washed up the banks and over the lawns. We suspect that there are speed limits on this river, but doubt they are strictly enforced.

 

While we were enjoying the comfortable ride on the opened back of the boat, we were served small cups of strong and sweetened coffee, and a cookie filled with caramel. Those that did not wish to sit outside, had a huge covered area in the front of the boat.

 

We did not see anyone swimming in that river, but our guide said they definitely do. Even though it looked like coffee and cream in color, she said it is clean and full of fish. We saw several folks fishing from their private docks as we sped by. More than likely, catfish would do well in these waters.

 

The hour was up very quickly, and our guide escorted us to the buses with just a little time for a pit stop. No shopping, please. We were back to the ship before 1pm. It was perfect for us to run to the dining room before they closed at 1pm. This time, we had excellent and quick service. Our first lunch in here was not so good. Glad we gave it another chance.

 

The sailaway was scheduled for 5:30pm, and this time they had a proper party. There was live music, but no chicken tenders served. Nothing was passed, as we are in the new segment, where everything has to be served by the staff for the first 24 hours. Another letter of warning was sent to all suites stating that the GI illness is still with us, and we had to continue frequently wash our hands and use Purell. Gosh, we would take a bath in the stuff if it would eradicate the bad germs. In the meantime, you cannot get silverware, napkins, water, food, or anything yourself in the Lido restaurant. There are no towels at the pools or wash cloths in the public bathrooms. You have to ask for beach towels. This is a serious situation, and has to be controlled soon, we hope.

 

Bob Brady, Martha's husband has joined our merry group at our dinnertable. We finally met Bob last year on the world cruise, and this time, he will stay until Sydney. We keep Martha with us until Singapore, since she has a friend joining us in Sydney. It was sad to see the empty seats once filled by friends Leslie and Handler and Carol. They would all be flying home this evening. The plan according to Tom, the dining room manager, was to fill two seats with men from either Australia or Argentina. The single gals like to have a few more men at our table to balance things. However, we were told they chose to eat early instead. Oh well, their loss. Now that there are several empty seats, we are sure our host Ellen will find many visitors for us to entertain. She has got to be the most outgoing and amiable person we are lucky to know.

 

By the way, it was a special occasion for one of us this evening.......a birthday. Martha saw to it that we had a lemon-filled whipped cream cake with strawberries as well. The other table of eight of our friends gathered along with the waiters to sing happy birthday that the whole dining room had to hear. So much for keeping the birthday quiet. It was much appreciated, and despite the hands off rule (virus rule), Mary Ann got lots of hugs and kisses from all.

 

Another nice port is coming up tomorrow.......Montevideo, Uruguay. We have no tour planned (been there, done that), and are happy to sleep in a little longer.

 

Mary Ann & Bill

[WCB]

Report # 26 January 25, 2012 Wednesday Montevideo, Uruguay

 

Strange as it sounds, we had a fairly rough ride as we sailed down the Rio de la Plata River last night. Besides only having three feet of water under the ship at times, we found out today that the ship was slowed down in order to pass two large cruise ships during the wee hours of the morning. Waves created in a river can be dangerous, so even going at a slow speed, the rolling we experienced must have been from the ship traffic.

 

Last night, the clocks went ahead one hour. Logically speaking, Uruguay time should be the same time zone as Buenos Aires, but for some reason they choose not to be. But for us, it did not matter, since we had decided not to take a tour here today. We have been to this city several times, taken tours everywhere, and decided to walk the city instead. The weather was perfect......almost 79 degrees with a cool fresh breeze.

 

Montevideo is the capital of Uruguay and is one of the major ports in South America. Much of the South Atlantic fishing fleet is based here. Originally Portuguese founded this area, although the Spanish claimed it. The British came onto the scene in the 19th and 20th centuries, building an extensive railroad system, linking the city to the countrysides.

 

There is a mixed population here of Spanish, Italian, and other various Europeans. Uruguay is famous for their beef, wines, and the right to brag about the first FIFA World Cup, which was held here in 1930. At the games, Uruguay beat the Argentinians 4 to 2. We bet that this fierce competition has continued ever since.

 

After a proper breakfast, we walked from the pier to the Market, which was just opening around 11am. As in Argentina and Brazil, no one gets up early, but they sure can stay up late. Perhaps they enjoy the cooler evenings over the heat of the day. Continuing on, we found the smaller Plaza Zabala, where wild bebe parrots live in the tall palms.We owned one of those birds several years back, and after listening to him squawk day & night, we happily gave him to one of our son's friends. Actually, we did not purchase him....he found us after flying away from someone else's home. Gee, we wonder why? We took pity on him and gave him a home. He would make such a fuss everytime he saw us, that we let him out of the cage, just to shut him up. He proceeded to climb on the door jambs and chew all the wood around the door. We have stayed parrot-free ever since, with the exception of parakeets. We wisely housed them outside, where they are happily chewing through the 2x4 lumber as we write.

 

We followed the tile-paved pedestrian streets all the way to Independence Square. All the side streets had stands of souveniers, and nice leather products such as wallets, gloves, slippers, and purses. Since they raise so many cattle, there is an abundance of leather products sold here. We must add that there was a presence of armed police on many side streets. Some areas in the city are not safe, especially if ladies are strolling by themselves or even in a group. We walked down one street all the way down to the waterline. Huge waves were washing over the rocks and we wanted to get some photos. No one bothered us, but when two of our lady friends were going to do what we did, they were turned around by the police. Interesting.

 

After walking for 3 hours, we headed back to the pier and went through the marketplace. This is the hotspot for tourists, especially from the cruise ships. Many restaurants are set up inside the building, where they cook the meats and veggies on mesquite wood barbeques. Gosh, that smelled so good. But with three ships in port, there was not a place to sit inside or outside. We opted to eat lunch on the ship.

 

The sun was still out, so we spent the rest of the afternoon on the back deck. By 5:30pm, we were set for a nice sailaway party. But there was none, even though it was advertised in the daily newsletter. No music, no food, just the Debutante Fresh lemon Drop drink special for $5.95. No, we have no idea what they were. By the way, happy hour (buy one get the 2nd for $1.) is still going on in the Crows Nest, Ocean Bar, and Piano Bar before each dinner time. Wonder how long that will last?

 

Dinner this evening brought us three guests........two lovely ladies that joined us yesterday, and the comedian, Dick, who will be on stage in a few days. Needless to say, many laughs were shared throughout the meal. Sky visited us from his table, which he does often. He brought a cork, and proceeded to teach Dick how to launch it in the flower bowl. He did it on the first try, and loved it. Bet he works this activity into his routine. Anyway, he wants to come back as a regular guest until he gets off in Ushuaia. That was fine with all of us.

 

Two days at sea now will be much appreciated by all.

 

Mary Ann & Bill

[Pete Jackson]

Yes, waves can be quite problematic in shallow waters. It is not possible to extend the stabilizers because they could strike the bottom when the ship rolls.

Casablana harbor is notorious for this.

 

Lovin' your wonderful reports!:)

[WCB]

Report # 27 January 26, 2012 Thursday Day at Sea

 

Well, today was a nice lazy day at sea. And surprisingly, it was a fairly warm day, considering the fact that we are dropping south like a rock. On two previous trips to and from the Falklands, the weather was cold and the seas rough. However, we visited in February (2010) and November (2003), obviously colder months.

 

While we walked this morning, we were entertained by sightings of perhaps porpoise or small dolphins. First we spotted flocks of birds working the waves, then the fish (OK mammals) came up, but never really broke the surface. To be truthful, the only fish we have seen so far on this trip have been flying fish. In the afternoon, the officer of the watch announced that some whales had been sighted on the horizon. That sure sent many folks outside with cameras in hand to get those once-in-a-lifetime photos. We watched from our lounges at the aft pool, because it has been our experience that once the whales are announced, they will be long gone in minutes. As far as we know, none were actually seen. That should change when we reach Antarctica.

 

While sitting back there, we heard a sad story concerning some passengers who had booked an independant tour to Iguazu Falls, out of Buenos Aires. They had booked this day tour through someone on the ship who had recommended someone they had heard was dependable and good. Well, it did not turn out well.

 

It is difficult to imagine what can go wrong on a tour. This particular day excursion is complicated, since it includes transfers to the airport, two flights, and connecting with guides. We were very lucky to have done this very same tour almost 10 years ago while on a Radisson ship. We had wisely booked it with their shore excursion staff, and all went as planned. The story began for these folks when we arrived to Buenos Aires to find that the terminal was terribly crowded. Finding their transfer to the airport was not easy. Remember we mentioned the demonstrations that closed the roads all around the pier? Well, that delayed their drive to the airport, which resulted in arriving too late for check-in. They found that their tickets had already been re-sold, and their trip was a no-go. We are not sure if these folks had prepaid this tour, but most likely they had to in order to get their flights and guides paid for. How they would go about getting refunded, we have no idea. Sure, they may have saved a few bucks doing this on their own, but in our way of thinking, the extra money is insurance that your trip will go as planned, and if not, your money is refunded.....no questions asked. Yes, we have done a couple of overland excursions on our own, but sometimes the stress and worry about these possible unforeseen events is not worth it.

 

Tonight was a formal evening with the theme of "Viva Las Vegas". The dining room was decorated with playing cards, dollar balloons, and sparkling hearts, spades, clubs, and diamonds hanging overhead. However, for our tablemates who are full world cruisers, we were invited to the special Captains Grand Voyage Dinner. We met with about 70 other guests for cocktails at 6:30pm in the Piano Bar. There was a receiving line, where we were marked off, then met the Captain before entering the small lounge. We happened to be in a good spot, while talking to Char, the future cruise gal, and Barbara, our travel guide. The waiters came right away and took our drink orders. Others had to hunt down these fellows to get wine or champagne, which usually is passed copiously. Only one tray of caviar hors d'oeuvres passed by our group. By the time everyone had been received, the Captain gave a short, sweet welcome, and we were escorted off to the Pinnacle Grill Restaurant, which was reserved for our group exclusively.

 

Every table in this small venue was hosted by an officer or staff member. Heading off a possible disasterous evening here, we had requested to dine with our friend Barb and Peter, the purser. Kim, the manager, had arranged exactly what we had requested, thank goodness. Terry, our tablemate had been assigned our table too, but she was still recovering from the dreaded virus, and decided to pass on the evening. Gosh, we have not seen her for days. One other fellow, Ed, sat with us instead.

 

The meal was excellent, as always. We started with a small salad with goat cheese and balsalmic dressing. A creamy mushroom soup followed, and it was really tasty. Next arrived an appetizer plate of halibut with lemon risotto. The entree was a sterling silver beef tenderloin with vegetables. The meat was cooked medium and fork-tender. Our only choice on the menu this evening was the dessert. One was a cheese plate with crackers, but the best was a cube of pina colada cheesecake, creamy-smooth chocolate cake (really fudge), and a crispy cookie-held apricot ice cream. Have you ever heard of apricot ice cream? We have not, but let us tell you, it was wonderful.

 

White wine from Napa, California and red wine from Chile were freely poured throughout the meal. We really disappoint the wine stewards when we decline, since we don't drink wine. We know they would have brought anything we wished, but water is our choice of beverage. There is a very good and new head wine man by the name of Ingo. He has come to the Amsterdam from the Seabourn line, and has been quite attendant with the guests. He really looks like the wine stewards you see in their flyers advertising their cruises. Guess you could say "classy".

 

Before the meal ended, Kim brought a gift to each of us. It was a small turquoise ceramic jar in the shape of a Holland tulip. It is made by Royal Goedewaagan (Delft Tile) to commemorate Tulipmania during the Dutch Golden Age in the 1630's. Nice way to finish the night, we thought. The room emptied out, except for four of us. Ellen sat with Barb and us until 10pm, comparing notes with her table and ours.

 

Another gift tonight was the fact that we turned our clocks back one hour, giving us time to catch up on these reports, of course.

 

Mary Ann & Bill

[Aussie Gal]

Mary Ann,

 

A belated happy birthday for the 24th January. What a wonderful way to spend a birthday, being on a World Cruise. You have probably had about 6 birthdays spent this way!

 

Loving your reports as usual. I have my fingers crossed that you manage to get to the Falklands. Were you on the cruise where the passengers had to spend a night on the island due to the rough weather and were not able to return to the ship. It happened a few years ago now?

 

Jennie

[WCB]

Report # 28 January 27, 2012 Friday Day at Sea

 

Can you believe we have been on this cruise for three weeks already? The time has flown by for us....even the sea days we have come to enjoy very much.

 

The weather has definitely turned cooler this morning. The clouds were described as "broken". That is a new term to us. It was 68 degrees, but the 28 MPH winds made it seems much colder than that. It sure is the perfect conditions for long morning walks. It was warm on the port side, but cool on the starboard side of the promenade deck. You had to walk fast to get past the cold side, so that's a good thing. As for the wave heights, we can say that today had to be the roughest one yet. Too bad they do not list the waves in feet anymore on the TV. We remember turning on that TV in 2002 while on our way to Petropavlosk, Russia, via the Aleutian Islands. The seas were measured at 50 feet, although the Captain had told us later on that they turned the feed off because the waves exceeded 55 feet. No sense alarming the passengers any more than they had to.

 

Shipboard life was in full swing today with the introduction of a new chef, Meg Galus. She will be presenting a series of food demos for a while we assume. Speaker, Warren Salinger, embarked recently. He delivered a talk this morning regarding politics of Argentina. Another Explorations speaker, John Splettsoesser, discussed the tectonic plates of the South Atlantic Ocean, South America, and the Falklands. Hmmm, that may be more info than we need right now, considering where we are sailing.

 

While waiting for emails to go, we checked out the library, only to find it had been closed down again. Funny, breakfast in the dining room had gone back to normal, so we assumed we were out of the woods with this virus. Guess not. The librarian said they got the word to open up as usual, only to be told to shut down by 9am. What that means is we are still in the red zone, and will continue to see precautions implemented for a while to come. Darn, we have run out of books to read, and now kind of are jealous of those that have the Nooks, etc. This virus bug is beginning to remind us of our trip on the Prinsendam 2 years ago, when we might as well have flown the skull and crossbones flag coming into the ports. We were very lucky not to have been turned away.

 

We usually do not take advantage of the spa offers, except perhaps a haircut or two. Today they were advertising a $99. special with a choice of 3 treatments. They could be a scalp, neck, or shoulder massage, a body wrap, hot stone massage, a lime and ginger salt glow body scrub (oooo, that sounds painful?), or a foot and ankle massage. Each treatment lasted 20 minutes. Many of our friends have tried some of these treatments and come away quite happy and relaxed. In fact, one of the spa managers on the 2009 world cruise, let it slip that the spa is one of the most lucrative departments on the ships, especially the grand voyages. It's the "frosting on the cake" for HAL.

 

We did spend some time in the sun at the aft pool. It was almost empty of sunbathers, and no one was in the pool. We lasted out there for about 2 hours, until the wind picked up. It really did surprise us that we had sun that was still warm. We know these days will be less and less until we get to Easter Island perhaps.

 

The only sealife we saw today were a few flying fish and maybe 2 albatross. They are neat to watch as they glide so effortlessly over the top of the water. There is a fable about those sturdy seabirds. They are said to have the souls of sailors that have been lost at sea over the centuries. And if they accompany your ship, they are good luck, because they are looking out for us. We like that idea, fable or not.

 

Ever since we embarked the ship, we have noticed a regular habit of emergency drills held for the crew. Well, they are not a habit, but a requirement with the international reulations of Safety of Life at Sea. Considering the terrible Costa accident recently, we are glad to see these drills in action. Today a drill was held that would mimic a helicopter accident that occured while extracting an ill guest from the ship. We have seen this happen for real on more than one trip. No, not an accident, but a helicopter transport to a local hospital. We have also heard that this service can cost up to $500,000. depending on where you are. At least, that is the amount we are insured for in case either of us need to be evacuated. Perish the thought, but you never know, do we?

 

We had three guests join us for dinner this evening. The comedian, Dick, Char, the future cruise consultant, and Rene, the spa manager all provided us with an exciting mealtime. Terry finally returned after her bout with the virus. She gathered a round of applause from us to welcome her back.

 

We're keeping our fingers crossed for a successful anchoring and tendering ashore tomorrow in the Falkland Islands. Wish us luck.......

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[scaaty]

 

a lime and ginger salt glow body scrub (oooo, that sounds painful?),

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

First, I want to say thank you once again for taking us along on your world cruise. This is probably the only way I'll get to experience one!

 

Second, do try the body scrub, it's not at all painful and makes your skin feel wonderful! I dared to try it and actually use the salts at home now :D

 

Hope you have a great day at Stanley Island!

[maddie404]

I am so glad to travle vicariously with you again! Have looked forward to this trip since last year when announced going. I too agree with Scaaty that the lime & ginger salt glow is a wonderful treatment. Wish I was off the coast of SA getting one! Looking forward to all the rest of your reports!

[WCB]

Report # 29 January 28, 2012 Saturday Stanley, Falkland Islands

 

Well, the answer as to whether or not we would reach the Falklands Islands was answered early this morning, when the Amsterdam sailed into the channel outside the capital city of Stanley, East Falkland Islands. It was a go! We had our doubts when we were awaken by the continuous sound of the foghorn at 3am this morning. Gosh, that is an eerie feeling to hear that horn go off every two minutes. Looking outside the window, we could see nothing but white pea soup fog. However, if there was fog, then there was no wind. Which would mean flat seas and easier tendering to shore.

 

The majority of passengers on this trip have never been to the Falklands, despite many attempts. The reasons for this are adverse tides, wind, inclement weather, or even politics, we understand. As for us, we have been lucky to have been here twice, and with this trip, three times. For one of our friends, this stop today is her fifth, four being a no-go. Yes, everyone was as pleased as could be.

 

However, complicating things was the fact that the Star Princess was also anchored here. She is a massive 105,000 or so ton ship and holds over 2500 passengers. In 2002, we sailed on her inaugural cruise from Singapore to Los Angeles. It was a wonderful experience and we really enjoyed the beauty of the ship's interior. Not everyone likes such a large vessel, but we did not mind it because you got a workout just going from your suite to your meals or anywhere else on the ship's many venues. The bad thing was that with two ships in port today, the population of the East Falkland Island would be more than doubled in size. There are only about 2500 residents that live there.

 

Our morning was already planned for us with a tour we pre-booked months ago called "Bluff Cove Penguin Rookery". This 3 hour tour would take us in 4 wheel drive vehicles to see gentoo, magellan, and king penguins. An hour was alotted to visit the museum and watching a wool spinning and felting demo. However, when we met with our group in the Queens Lounge to be stickered and go down to the tenderboat, we were all told by Leslie, the assistant shore excursion manager, that our tour had been cancelled by the provider. Boy, we sure didn't see that coming. Of course we were disappointed, but not as much as the folks who had looked forward to this tour as one of the highlights of their cruise. Leslie apologized, saying it was unfortunate, but the operator had run short on the 4 wheel drive vehicles. Done, period, end of story! We turned our tickets in to him for refunds, and promptly left for the tenderboat. Those who were not 4 or 5 star Mariners had to go to the Wajang Theater to get tender tickets. We did not have to do that, and just showed our room card with the 4 star logo (priority tender priviledge) on them to gain access to the waiting boat. There were 6 seats left, and we were on our way to see if we could replace our tour with something.

 

The ride to shore took about 1/2 hour, even though the waters were not rough. By now, the clouds were beginning to lift, and the sun was actually peeking through. At least we did not have to wear our down jackets, like we did the other times we were here. Even though the wind was blowing strong, it was not a freezing wind.

 

Once ashore, we walked right to a local gal who was selling tickets to Gypsy Cove, a 15 minute drive in a small van from the pier. There we would be able to walk roped-off trails along the cliffs to see a picturesque beach with sand dunes filled with the burrowing Magellanic penguins. They are also nicknamed "*****" penguins because the noise they make sounds like the braying of a donkey.

 

Once a group of 10 of us gathered, the van pulled up, and we were on our way to Gypsy Cove. The driver made a left turn on the only highway in town. It took us past the Stanley Cemetery which commemorates both World Wars. Past the cemetery were many new small homes, built within the last 15 years, doubling the size of the settlement. These modest abodes cost somehwre in the 200,000 pound range, which was surprising. The exchange rate for the US dollar was .65 to 1 pound. But everything here is expensive, we remembered. Each house was painted brightly, surrounded with gardens of flowers and summer vegetable gardens. Even though today was a Saturday, we saw few natives out and about. Guess they did not wish to compete with the throngs of visitors here today.

 

The road crossed over a land bridge, where some fishing boats were moored. One very rusty ironclad ship by the name of "Lady Liz" sat disabled in shallow water. It arrived in Stanley in 1913 having been damaged on rocks in Berkeley Sound. It had been used as a floating warehouse, but sits here as a reminder of the dangers of the seas.

 

As we rode towards the cove, we passed many guest who had chosen to walk or ride a bike there. Our buddy Sky had ridden his bike, while Henk, our hotel manager had jogged all the way and back again. Guess it would have been a nice hike, but it would have taken too much time. Yeah, that is a good excuse, right?

 

We had to chuckle when we reached the entrance to the cove. An old bus was there that had been converted to a Tea House. And there were bathroom shacks conveniently set up for the tourists. Good job. It was not too crowded yet, as we figured most of the folks were still on morning tours. That would change by the time we left.

 

The paved, roped-off trail was well marked with signage depicting what we could expect to see in the way of wildlife. That would be the Magellanic penguins, upland geese, steamer ducks, rock comorants, southern giant petrels, and black-browed albatross. Once the Gypsy Cove beach came into view, we spotted one lone King penguin laying on the sand. He was out of his area, so our driver suggested he was ill or confused. He had hardly moved much during our 2 hour visit, so we suspect he was on his way out.

 

One very sobering aspect were the signs that warned us of the danger of land mines. We were not to go beyond the roped cliffsides, which could be dangerous anyway. At one spot on the trail, one man slipped and rolled right into the barbed wire. It took several men to haul him back up. Embarrassed, but uninjured he thanked them and swiftly continued on his way. Anyway, these land mines were leftover from the 1982 short-lived war between the British and the Argentinians over the possession of these islands. This short, but brutal war brought much international attention to these remote islands, and continues to do so even today.

 

Luckily, we were quite happy to see many groups of penguins either in their burrowed nests, basking in the daylight, or waddling on the beach towards the surf to go fishing. They were oblivious to the crowd of onlookers as they went about their daily routine as if we were not there. A word to the wise.....it is best to get upwind of these birds, as the aroma of their droppings is mighty powerful.

 

After getting hundreds of photos, we hiked up the hillside to see the canon left there from one of the world wars. The wind was incredibly strong once we left the shelter of the jutting cliffs. We laughed at the effectiveness of that canon in these hurricane winds blowing us backwards. A shot from this canon would have been reduced to a very short distance we assume.

 

By the time we decided to head back for our ride, the pathways were full of both HAL and Princess people who took advantage of this reasonably priced excursion. Glad we did this first. The van arrived in minutes, and had us back to Stanley quickly.

 

Our next stop was in the main grocery store to pick up some snacks for our room. We love fresh blocks of cheese, so we picked up some gouda, cheddar, edam and some crackers to put it on. Yes, the prices were a bit high, but relatively so compared to home. Since the gift shops were grossly over-crowded, the better choices were here in the food section. From the looks of the store shelves, they would be cleaned off by the end of the day with so many people in town. The only souveniers we picked up were postcards. Stamps could be purchased onboard, and mailed from Stanley on Monday. We understand that the mail is flown to England, they dispersed from there.

 

We spent the rest of our time relaxing on the grass while snacking on our trail mix and candy bars we brought from the ship. Then we walked the main drive past most of the town's landmarks such as Christ Church Cathedral, Victory Greens, the post office (closed on Saturday), and the Penguin News. Thatcher Drive, named after Margaret Thatcher, led to the Government House. We could have walked further, but frankly, with that hike to Gyspy Cove, we were feeling a bit tired. So we headed back, going up the streets to see where the locals lived. One such complex is particulary nice. It is called Cartmell Cottage, one of the original 1849 cottages brought in kit form from Britain. These had been brought here for the military pensioners who came here from Britain to settle the islands. Very civilized, we might add.

 

The most fun places we passed on the way back were the many small pubs in town. All but one, the Brasserie Restaurant, were in full swing with several "specials of the day". As you may guess, the fare was very British like fish and chips, calamari, and beer....lots of beer. Since most places were bulging with people, we chose to go back to the ship and get lunch there. Later on, we heard that much of the fried fish had bones, and that is not our cup of tea.

 

There was about a half hour wait for the tenderboat ride. At the pier, glassed waiting booths are available for inclement weather, but no where big enough to house everyone today. Lucky for all, it was only windy, very windy, but not raining. In fact, the locals were concerned about the lack of rain recently. Everything on the hillsides was brown instead of green. Bet that affects the grazing for the many flocks of sheep and horses that are on ranches inland. The ride back was dicey, because the wind had picked up considerably and the waves blew a lot of spray into the boat a few times. Well, that woke us up in a hurry!

 

Sailaway was around 6pm, and we went to the aft deck to find that the party was in the Lido pool area. Yes, it was windy, but by now, the sun had come out and most of the clouds were gone. We glassed the beaches on our way out to spot the dozens of ***** penguins that were on the white, sandy beaches. The Amsterdam left the Star Princess behind as they had a later departure.

 

Dinnertime was fun once again, since we had Dick Hardwick again as our guest. We may be in a bit of trouble, since other folks have requested his presence at their table. We think he has chosen us to make us his "home" table, because he enjoys the company of our single ladies. And perhaps, the leftover wine from our last Kings Room dinner?

 

We are now headed towards Antarctica one undoubtedly one of the biggest highlights of this world cruise. We have pulled out our warm weather clothing, and are ready for the frigid temperatures.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[airlink diva]

I'm so enjoying reading your reports from the world cruise!!

One of my co-workers is about to retire from FedEx (he works part time with the airline) and is looking at doing just a part of the world tour. I told him to head to this thread to get an idea of the world cruise.

Can't wait for the Antarctica part. If I recall (it wasn't on the world cruise) where a rouge wave hit the ship and things got a little crazy on board?

[RuthC]

If I recall (it wasn't on the world cruise) where a rouge wave hit the ship and things got a little crazy on board?

It was the Prinsendam Circle South America cruise a few years ago. But it wasn't a rogue wave. It was a horrific storm. The ship had to leave port through the storm, return to let off a sick passenger, then go through the storm again to continue on.

A terrible time for all.

[airlink diva]

It was the Prinsendam Circle South America cruise a few years ago. But it wasn't a rogue wave. It was a horrific storm. The ship had to leave port through the storm, return to let off a sick passenger, then go through the storm again to continue on.

A terrible time for all.

 

Thanks Ruth! I knew this happen on one of their cruises.

[Aussie Gal]

Mary Ann & Bill,

 

So happy to hear you made it to shore on the Falklands. Great to hear how you enjoyed your day. I thought I read that the bigger ships were now banned from Antarctica, perhaps I misread it or dreamt it as you seem to be on your way down there.

 

We loved our time down in Antarctica back in 2006. We had beautiful sunny weather with no wind and we didn't need all the warm clothes that we had brought with us. I hope you enjoy the same weather.

 

Jennie

[Bellair]

Mary Ann & Bill,

 

So happy to hear you made it to shore on the Falklands. Great to hear how you enjoyed your day. I thought I read that the bigger ships were now banned from Antarctica, perhaps I misread it or dreamt it as you seem to be on your way down there.

 

We loved our time down in Antarctica back in 2006. We had beautiful sunny weather with no wind and we didn't need all the warm clothes that we had brought with us. I hope you enjoy the same weather.

 

Jennie

 

According to a report by USA Today, cruise ships carrying more than 500 passengers will no longer be able to sail in Antarctica. Currently, Princess Cruises and Holland America cruise the same waters on large ships carrying more than 2,000 passengers. Unlike smaller-scale expedition cruises, passengers on these cruises are not allowed to disembark, but the ships sail close enough for passengers to observe penguins and even encounter icebergs.

[eyekos]

Dear Mary Ann and Bill,

I just stumbled upon this thread this evening and spent the last hour "catching up" on your cruise. We are scheduled to join your ship in Sydney as we are doing the Sydney to Mumbai part of the cruise. We are very excited and can't wait. Hopefully the code red will end soon for you!

 

I have a quick question for you. I was thinking of bringing some local currency with me for buying souvenirs, food, etc., in the local markets. I am curious, since you've already been to a lot of these ports in the past, if you would recommend this for Australia, Indonesia, Honk Kong, Vietnam, Thailand, Sri Lanka, and India??

 

Does this ship convert US dollars into local currency on board?

 

Thanks and enjoy the Antarctic tomorrow!

Alexandra

[WCB]

Report # 30 January 29, 2012 Sunday Day at Sea

 

The Amsterdam continued sailing in a southerly direction through the evening and all day as we near our approach to Antarctica. Wow, the weather sure has changed rapidly as the temperature this morning was in the high 30's. By 5pm, we noted that it was 1 degree Celsius, which is about 34 degrees F., near freezing temps. The sun never appeared today, but we sure had fog. So much fog, that the horn was sounded every few minutes all afternoon. So creepy...... The good news is that the seas are smooth in an area that could be very rough. We're not complaining.

 

In between brisk walks outside, we attended two lectures in the Queens Lounge. Explorations speaker John Splettstoesser spoke about wildlife, right up our alley, so to speak. We can never learn enough about the history, birds, penguins, and whales that we hope to see soon. The second lecture delivered by Bob Hofman added more info on the same subject. For a change, both levels of the lounge were filled with passengers to hear these talks. Of course, there would be no pool time today, unless we were crazy. We did notice that the pool water was heated, because the steam was rolling off of it like a boiling pot.

 

We thought the second Cruise Critic meeting was set for 11 to 12pm. However, we were off by one hour, since it started at 10am. We did get an update on the meeting from friends Karen and Darrel, who did attend. Captain Jonathon did stop by for a brief hello, as he was on his way to see his wife, who happened to be participating in the knitting group on the starboard side of the Crows Nest.

 

At 11:30am, another Mongolian cookout was held in the Lido pool area. Many folks took advantage of this meal, and we are sure the experience was even better now that the outside temps have dropped. With the overhead sliding roof closed, it was comfortable in there.

 

The movie, "March of the Penguins" was shown in the Wajang Theater today. A very popular documentary at the time, this movie is a favorite of everyone, especially since we are heading to some of the penguin's homesites. This reminds us that recently we were given a flyer from the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators, courtesy of the Office of the Secretariat. It outlined the rules and regulations of visiting this area of the world. Most all of it does not apply to us, since the majority of the passengers will not be going to step foot on land or ice. The only harm we can render is accidently losing a paper napkin overboard perhaps, or smoke a cigarette where it is forbidden. The rules are meant to protect wildlife, respect protected areas, don't interfere with scientific research, keep the area pristine, and be safe. One suggestion really stands out under be safe. We quote: Do not expect a rescue service. Self-sufficiency is increased and risks reduced by sound planning, quality equipment, and trained personnel. We promise to be good scouts, honestly! Now for a small handful of passengers that have booked a very special shore excursion, they will have the chance to step foot on Antarctic land. This 11 hour tour for the amount of $3400. per person will include a flight from Punta Arenas in Chile to Frei Base, managed by the Chilean Air Force. It is one of several meterological and navigational stations in Antarctica, and houses 150 people during the summer months. Once the tour of the facility is complete, 20 guests at a time will board a zodiac for a ride to Ardley Island to view penguins up close and personal. Char, our onboard cruise consultant has the honor of being one of the 50 guests that are going. We hope to hear all about it when she gets back. She will have the priviledge of saying she stepped foot on the seventh continent.

 

From the looks of the partial service in the dining room this morning, we assumed that we are in the orange zone for the virus still. In checking the library, we found it shut up tight. Darn. This must have been lifted by dinnertime, because each place setting had a champagne glass. A card was set on the table with a witty message from Captain Jonathon and Henk, our hotel manager, stating that we have earned freedom from the restrictions, and we could celebrate with glasses of the bubbly. Hope this lasts for the rest of the trip.

 

Dr. Pal and her husband Fritz were scheduled to join us this evening, but we had a message waiting for us in the afternoon sending regrets. Pal mentioned a problem in the infirmary that would keep her there. That made sense, because we had heard the Bright Star call this morning, and realized someone on deck A (crew deck) had an accident. What we did not know, was that the call for the medical staff was really a drill in disguise. And what we also did not know, was that Dr. Pal herself, had taken a fall while running to this drill. Tripping over someone accidently, she hit her head, and had a cut that required stitches from the crew doctor. Fritz, her husband, joined us outside the Ocean Bar around 6pm to tell us the news. Luckily, she did not have a concussion, but will be sore and probably black and blue for a while. You never think that doctors have accidents too. We wished her a speedy recovery, and took a raincheck for another evening when she is feeling better.

 

Ellen, our trusty hostess, managed to fill our table with two couples and Dick Hardwick again. Woody also came to our table since his tablemates and Susie, his wife, went to the special Cellar Master's Dinner at the Pinnacle Grill. This meal, at $69. per person, offers premium wines with a 6 course tasting menu. Since the Woodster does not drink wine, he opted out, and joined our table. We think he had a good time with the added humor from our comedian friend throughout the meal. By the way, we ordered the comfort dinner of Yankee pot roast with green beans and mashed potatoes. It was delicious to the last bite.

 

The entertainment this evening was the Divas of Motown. We are sure it would be a good venue, but knowing that we may be approaching iceberg alley early tomorrow morning, we needed to turn in early to see it. The down coats, heavy gloves, and wool scarves are out and ready to go!

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[WCB]

Report # 31 January 30, 2012 Monday The Antarctic Experience Day One

 

A highly anticipated portion of our cruise began today with the first of three days that we will spend exploring the Antarctic Peninsula by ship. Wow, we are at a loss as to where to start. Perhaps we can borrow a few facts that we read in the Antarctica Log Book we were given last night.

 

Antarctica has a surface of 5,274,541.6 square miles, about the same size as the United States and Mexico combined. It is massive. The coldest temperatures on earth have been logged here at -128.6 degrees F. It is a continent of extremes....24 hours darkness in June, and 24 hours daylight in December. There is no native population. There is no official language, no capital, and no currency. This fact stands out as really odd....even though Antarctica holds 90% of all the world's ice, it is the driest continent as well as the largest desert on earth. Weird. The largest iceberg that ever broke off was 183 miles long, 23 miles wide. Huge.

 

Some sealife , such as the ice fish, have an "antifreeze" substance in their blood so they can survive here. The Emperor penguins live only here. The Southern giant petrel, Chatham albatross, the Southern Right Whale, and the Blue Whale are some of the endangered species. Krill is the young fry of fish which sustains many of the largest animals here. If all of the Antarctic krill were weighed, they would come in at over 500 million tons, about twice the weight of the human population on earth. And finally, the largest land animal here is a wingless insect which is only 1/2 inch in size. Gosh, who thinks of these things?

 

The first land was sighted at 7am this morning when we passed by Elephant Island. We woke up to the ding-ding-ding of the ship's PA system, so we would be awake to see the island. This would occur several times during the day, where one of the Explorations speakers would come on and explain what we were seeing.

 

Thank goodness we brought the heavy winter outerwear, or else we would not have been able to stay outside on the open decks as long as we did today. By 10am, there was some rain, which turned into snow flurries. That sure cleared the promenade deck off in a hurry. We hung around with cameras in hand, and also to wait for the hot chocolate, Dutch green pea soup, and bouillon served from 10am to 3pm.

 

While we were freezing on the bow of the ship, 20 brave or crazy passengers actually took a dive in the aft pool to receive the "Antarctic Penguin Plunge" certificate. As the professional ship photographers are always present for these contests, we can't wait to see who the nutty people are. It sure wasn't us!

 

By noon, we began to see the icebergs on the horizon. Some of these were giant monolithes or wind-cut tabletop bergs that were the size of three football fields. Many of these floating islands had either penguins or seals on them taking a ride, or simply resting in between fishing jaunts.

 

We spotted a lot of wildlife such as black and white cape petrels, albatross, brown skuas, and southern giant petrels. But the largest number of birds we saw were the adele penguins, weighing in at about 8 - 10 pounds. They were so fast as they "porpoised" or popped out of the water, that many folks mistook them for jumping fish. Big groups of these penguins were on the huge icebergs, where they could dive off and feed on the abundant krill in the waters. You could find these birds by looking for the telltale pinkish trail they leave on the ice from their droppings.

 

In the afternoon, the Amsterdam headed towards Hope Bay and the Argentinian Esperanza Station. Watching the approach from the bow of the ship, we had a hard time standing straight due to the apparent 66 knot winds that were blowing across the deck. By 3pm, the temperature had dropped to a chilling 28 degrees F. With the wind chill factor, it was almost crippling. It's not just cold you experience, it's the pain of numb fingers and toes, despite the use of polar gloves and waterproof footwear. It was necessary to keep moving in and out, and up and down the stairs to keep your circulation going.

 

Esperanza Station was built by the Argentinians in 1952. It is one of 40 permanent research stations that belong to 30 nations. The people that live here at Esperanza, for instance, are researchers, scientists, and support crew. Whole families live on this station, and there are even schools for the children. Most of these families stay for no more than two years. It is hard to imagine what it is like in the winter months with little or no daylight.

 

As the ship approached this settlement, we could see a number of dark red buildings all constructed together. Adjacent to the station were slopes of steep ice, where thousands of Adele penguins were hiking up to the volcanic rocks where their chicks were waiting to be fed. Again, you could follow the pink ice all the way to the top. When the wind blew off of the ice in our direction, we all choked on the smell. It was unbelievable to us that we could actually detect that foul odor from this far away. Captain Jonathon turned the ship easily so all could get a good view of this bay and the station. The last time we came to this area in 2010, we were unable to reach this spot due to pack ice blocking our pathway. The cool thing was that we saw some people walking around the housing. They must be quite used to visiting ships, because they did not bother to wave.

 

We spent the remainder of the afternoon downloading the hundreds of photos we took. It wasn't until we sat down, and warmed up, that we realized how exhausting the day had been. The extreme cold zaps your energy more than you would think.

 

Dinnertime brought us some new visitors. Tom M., our host, had invited three friends to share our table. Since Dick Hardwick was on stage this evening, we had some extra room for newbies. Martha was so cute. She feels as if Dick is our special buddy, and decided to leave the dining room early to save seats in the front of the showlounge for our group. No way we would sit there, as we never trust a comedian. On a previous trip years ago, we found that the spotlight was on us, as we tried to sneak out of a show early. We really hate it when the entertainer uses the audience for their act. Not knowing what Dick's approach was, we stayed safely in the back row on deck 5. He was really funny, and we ended up staying for the whole performance. And happily, he did not use anyone in the lounge for the butt of his jokes.

 

We think that the Captain takes the ship out of the immediate area to sail during the evening, then continues on course for the second day of visits to different bays and islands. We will sleep well tonight.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[Pete Jackson]

If you felt cold, be glad that you didn't get some of that -128.6 degree weather. Now, that would really make me freeze!

 

When we visited Esperanza station in 2003 aboard the Ryndam, there was a lot of huge tabular bergs in the area. The ship had to make a number of sharp turns to get in and out. And far off the starboard bow, there was a black blot on the water. Using binoculars, we could see that it was literally thousands of penguins swimming in formation! There must have been a seafood smorgasbord being offered.

 

We would spend a lot of time in the Crow's Nest enjoying the views, and many people would also be up on the skydeck above the Crow's Nest. When something was spotted, we would hear the stampede of hundreds of feet as people streamed from one side of the skydeck to the other!