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Istanbul on our own - advise please!


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We haven't booked a tour in Istanbul as we hear it is easy to get to all the main sights from ship.

Any advice on how to spend the day? Should we get on a HOHO bus here? (is that recommended?)

Is the city stroller friendly?

What would you advise for a good itinerary?

We are so excited about this city but not sure what the recommended order is to do things in..

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We haven't booked a tour in Istanbul as we hear it is easy to get to all the main sights from ship.

Any advice on how to spend the day? Should we get on a HOHO bus here? (is that recommended?)

Is the city stroller friendly?

What would you advise for a good itinerary?

We are so excited about this city but not sure what the recommended order is to do things in..

If it's any guide I did this in my time there (4pm Monday - 5 pm Tuesday)

 

Topkapi palace 25TL (u12s free), + another 15TL for the Harem

 

Hagia Sophia

Entry cost 25 TL

 

For both of these you can buy tickets in advance (except for the Harem, which you get from the box office once inside the Topkapi palace) from http://www.muze.gov.tr/hagiasophia This worked out well as we went straight in past the long lines. You print out an email with a QR code for each ticket and remember to take it with you

 

For u12s (free) you don't need a ticket. Our youngster was obviously under 12 and the official at the turnstile waved her through, but we had her passport with us anyway.

 

The only downside with buying your ticket in advance is that the website makes it clear it is non-refundable so if you don't use it, it's lost. But as 25TL is not a fortune I'd say getting it this way is well worth it - just double check you get the date right.

 

Blue Mosque

Entry is free and they provide clothing if your shorts don't cover your knees. You can't go in at prayer times, so as the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque are almost next to each other go to the mosque first and check your possible entry times (i.e. outside of the 5 prayer periods). That way you will know when to go there and not waste precious time. If you get lucky and can go in straight away, do so and go to the Hagia Sophia afterwards - your ticket there is for the day and does not specify a time. Once inside the mosque we spent about 15 minutes looking round. The tiles are stunning and I would have liked longer here but was mindful of our schedule.

 

Basilica Cistern

You can't buy your (10 TL) ticket in advance but the queue moves quickly. There are over 50 steps down to the cistern floor. I think this is another 'must-see' as there can't be too much else like it anywhere. It's a one trick pony but a great one, and we spent 15 minutes down there.

 

Grand Bazaar, Galata Tower (12 TL) & Spice Bazaar

 

Obviously going to Sultanahmet by taxi is easiest way but the tram is simple and less susceptible to traffic delays. As you leave the port turn right, walk about 200 yards and you'll see the stop. But before you do that ask someone where the nearest machine is to buy the tram tokens (red plastic discs which you use to open the platform gates). Each ride cost 2 TL pp so you'll need 4 pp to go there and back. If you want to go the Grand Bazaar after Sultanahmet you could walk (about a mile) or tram it, in which case you'll need another disc. There is a token machine at Sultanahmet (probably more than one) if you need to top up.

 

All the best, Tony

Edited by Cornishpastyman1
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Not sure there even is a ho-ho in Istanbul.

Exploring by yourselves is very easy, basically take the tram from near your ship (which tramstop & directions to that tramstop will depend exactly where you dock) over the Galata Bridge & to the furthest point you want to explore, probably the Blue Mosque at Sultanahmet. Then work your way back to Galata Bridge on foot via sights of your choice.

Plenty of advice on this thread:

http://boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=1823507

 

JB :)

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I agree with the tram.... we have used it both times we have visited Istanbul - which is by the way one of our favorite cities .... really clean, safe, easy to get around, great food, wonderful sights and while the people are reserved they are always happy to help a tourist.

 

And they love kids !!!!!!!

 

ps: yes it is pretty stroller friendly.

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There is a hoho bus in Istanbul - we were there last year & returning this - we thinking of doing Aghia Sophia first - we missed it last time as it was so busy (we got to Topkapi first before that got too busy!) We then want to head to Sulieymane Mosque and then get on a hoho bus to ride round & see more sites from the bus. Has anyone done the hoho that can recommend it and if so, which one as there we 2 companies when we were there.

 

As for Kidsoftheaeas, I think you are taking younger children? They might enjoy the Underground Cisterns - we found it fascinating - that is not stroller friendly but can be walked around easily. Everywhere else is pretty easy with a stroller although if you use the trams, they do get pretty packed so you will need to fold it up before you hop on I would think!

 

If you do Topkapi, there are lots of places your little ones will be able to safely get out & stretch their legs, so too the area around Aghia Sophia - all pedestrianised & very safe :)

Edited by Julessmiles
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I can't even imagine using a ho-ho in Istanbul. The traffic can be absolutely positively horrendous making that mode of transport not very efficient.

 

I have heard stories from fellow cruisers at dinner of being stuck in traffic while on a tour bus or taxi making the trip from the ship to the historic area take an hour or more :eek: We have used the trams ALOT and it takes about 8 minutes !!!!! I know - I timed it once. The tram does not have to stop for lights or traffic as it goes down the middle of the road. It is cheap, safe and fast.

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We did a HoHo in Istanbul, and indeed the traffic was horrendous. It did get us out to several sites, the Chora museum with its outstanding mosaics, and the Suleymaniye Mosque. And we of course, saw some areas of the city from the bus that we would otherwise not have seen--the old walls, an old Jewish area.

 

But picking up the bus after stopping was definitely a pain.

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Great info provided by Tony! Use the tram, exit the port, turn left and get some Turkish lira from the first ATM (there are many). The tram stops are in the middle of the street with a little hut that you pay for the tram. You will probably get on at the Tophane stop (though the Findikli is sometimes closer depending on where you dock). Get off at Gulhane (Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia and Archaeological Museum) or Sultanahmet (Hippodome, Blue Mosque, Underground Cisterns). Very easy to do.

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I was there over 10 years ago and it was really nice but one thing if you buy any packaged shirts open them up and check before you pay for them we bought some t shirts that were wrapped and when we opened them the fabric was much thinner than the sample we were shown and the size was very small!

 

Easy to get around and really nice people too!

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We did a HoHo in Istanbul, and indeed the traffic was horrendous. It did get us out to several sites, the Chora museum with its outstanding mosaics, and the Suleymaniye Mosque. And we of course, saw some areas of the city from the bus that we would otherwise not have seen--the old walls, an old Jewish area.

 

But picking up the bus after stopping was definitely a pain.

 

We used the trams last year - was hoping to use them to get to Aghia Sophia then catch hoho bus for a ride all round to view the sites from the bus - not necessarily to get off, but guess it's a "No" then??

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We just visited Istanbul on April 1 & 2, 2013. Others already provided plenty of advice on how to get around. I am only here to share my shopping experience there. We only shopped for half a day in Grand Baazar, and had only gone thru the streets that sells scarfs and some candy shops. At the entrance, they are more expensive, when we get to the end and some side streets, the prices are so good we ended buying many more than we planned to. Some of them are only 5 T.L. or less. I still regret I did not buy more to give to my friends. We also bought lots of Turkey Delights, but they are a total scam. The candies are nothing like what are shown on the pictures. On the ones they said have nuts do not have visiable nuts. You maybe able to taste a hint of nuts in them. So if you want to buy candies, buy them from the bulks in the store where you can see, sometimes even taste them.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The tram token (jeton) ıs now TL3. The dıspensers only take bılls up to TL 20.

 

ATM's are everywhere, but I have chıp cards- not sure ıf they take old-style swıpe-only cards.

Edited by Dancer Bob
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You have gotten great advice on where to go when in Istanbul. I just wanted to chime in with one more opinion. I do NOT feel you need a tour for this city. It's very walkable and what isn't walkable, you can reach from using their tram system.

 

You will have a wonderful time and it's one of my favorite cities in the world. Call to Prayer always gave me goose bumps.

 

Cathy

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  • 3 weeks later...
We just visited Istanbul on April 1 & 2, 2013. Others already provided plenty of advice on how to get around. I am only here to share my shopping experience there. We only shopped for half a day in Grand Baazar, and had only gone thru the streets that sells scarfs and some candy shops. At the entrance, they are more expensive, when we get to the end and some side streets, the prices are so good we ended buying many more than we planned to. Some of them are only 5 T.L. or less. I still regret I did not buy more to give to my friends. We also bought lots of Turkey Delights, but they are a total scam. The candies are nothing like what are shown on the pictures. On the ones they said have nuts do not have visiable nuts. You maybe able to taste a hint of nuts in them. So if you want to buy candies, buy them from the bulks in the store where you can see, sometimes even taste them.

 

If you want excellent Turkish Delights you should buy them at Haci Bekir which has been making them and other confectionaries since 1777, There are several shops around the city, including one near the Spice Bazaar and one on Istiklal, the big pedestrian mall in the New City.

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We haven't booked a tour in Istanbul as we hear it is easy to get to all the main sights from ship.

Any advice on how to spend the day? Should we get on a HOHO bus here? (is that recommended?)

Is the city stroller friendly?

What would you advise for a good itinerary?

We are so excited about this city but not sure what the recommended order is to do things in..

 

Get a good guide book. I swear by those Knopf EyeWitness guides. I have nver seen a HOHO bus. Istanbul is very e-z to navigate on ur own once you get the book. From the cruise ship terminal, u can take a tram that stops in Sultanhammet and see: Hagia Sophia, (go early as it gets crowded), Blue Mosque, the Andama Bazaar right in back of the Blue Mosque, etc..Then take the tram to Emininou stop and go to the Spice Bazaar. I like it better than the Grand Bazaar. Also, the tam is very e-z to use and u can get tokens at the stops. With a bit of planning, u can see istanbul like a native and really get a feel for the city.

Edited by 24butterfly
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Thanks for all the information.

 

Curious if anyone has ever done a river cruise in Istanbul? Or gone to the Asia side of the city.

 

Yes. To both.

We went up the Bosphorus on the Ferry, and got off at Sariyer. Waited there and walked around for 3 hrs. I would not get off there again, as there really is nothing to see. Guide Book recommended it. I'd get off at Uskudar instead.

 

Last time, we took the ferry to Kadikoy, then walked straight up to a busy street which was their market street. I missed this ice-cream that I wanted to try.....I went on Trip Advisor and picked "destination" restaurants--Ciya Sofrasi--for lunch---very e-z to find.

 

You pick up the ferries from Eminonou--Pier 2. VERY e-z and the best bargain to travel on the ferries....Hope this helps.

Edited by 24butterfly
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Hello,

 

I'm an Istanbul local. Would love to help with any questions.

 

The cruise port is basically in the center of istanbul so its very easy to get to anywhere. I know quite much about istanbul so I would love to help but I would need to know how many hours you spend in the city. I'm sure everyone loves their city but for me spending just 1-day in istanbul is like... having just one bite from a really good kebab.

 

That said there is plenty to do depending on you and your schedule.

 

HOHO Bus is a bad idea for one day. Traffic is too much.

 

If you had 7-8 hours in the city and the energy to walk here is what I would do:

 

1-Get off the cruise and start walking up the hill you see ahead of you. Whereever you walk up, you should end up in this busy pedestrian street called Istiklal caddesi. This is the "cultural center" of istanbul. Lots of museums, galleries, churches, cafe's, bars and above all, people.

 

2- Turn left on istiklal and walk straight. As the street ends another smaller street begins which cars can (rarely) pass and this will take you to Galata tower. There is a restaurant-cafe named Kiva Han here serving traditional turkish and ottoman food maybe you'd like to sample some.

 

3- After galata tower go back towards the smaller street you were on and walk down the hill to the sea side. Where ever you land you must be near Galata Bridge. There is a nice cafe-charcuterie named NAMLI here which sells Turkish made cheese and meat products.

 

4- Cross Galata bridge.

 

5- The big mosque you see infront of you is Eminonu and Eminonu mosque. It was built by the mother of a sultan. she was of jewish origins but captured and was in the harem after age 14. The mosque is smack in the middle of a jewish neighbourhood in ottoman times. strange. But as you see this mosque, also notice the smaller mosque and its minaret to the right. This smaller mosque named Rüstem Pasa Mosque is renowned for its colorful ceramic tiles. there is a red color named "coral red" , here, after the master died ottomans worked hard to replicate this color and they couldnt. Getting carried away sorry, the mosque is in a trade disctrict called "basket makers" busy, cultural, small streets.

 

6- walk back on the busy little streets towards eminonu mosque visiting the coffee maker kahveci mehmed efendi's store when you sense the smell. buy ground turkish coffee. walk into spice bazaar. walk out of spice bazaar. find sirkeci tram station and buy a token from the vending machines, they're easy to operate, you put turkish lira in, for example 10 liras, and if you press OK it gives you a token, if you press the other button it increases the number of tokens you'll get. each token is 3 liras.

 

7- take the tram 2 stops towards the other side of water to Sultanahmet. Only 2 stops but its up the hill.

 

8- touristic red heat zone. we are in the center of "historic center". haghia sophia museum (long lines and 20tl to enter) . sultanahmet mosque (free to enter but if its prayer time you might have to wait... or just say "please" and they should let you in with everyone)... topkapı palace (huge and tiring to walk in but its the palace what can you do) then back to the underground cistern (around 20tl to enter) to cool off.

 

9- The column of constantine is at the next tram stop but its a nice walk just a little up hill. column of Constantine is where istanbul started. The column is like a birthday candle of the city. It's also -practically- where christianity started.

 

10- if you feel too tired from the walk up hill visit Çemberlitaş turkish bath, its good even in hot weather. its usually crowded so you dont get to experience the calming properties of the marble and dome but then again with 8 hours in istanbul, no reason to calm down.

 

11- Grand bazaar is nearby. buy turkish bath towels from Egin Tekstil. Buy copper turkish coffee pots. Buy gold jewelry while at it? Visit Nick MErdenyan's store Nicks Caligraphy in OLD BEDESTEN and see the caligraphy he does on leaves.

 

12- If its before 4pm find Subasi Lokantasi near Cuhaci Han, "the chef's plate" is a plate of selections of the chef usually good food.

 

13- I guess it would be time to go back. exit grand bazaar. If you still have time you can take the tram back to Sirkeci station instead and there is a cafe at the building that is nearest to the water. Called Cafe Kat 4. Its on the 4th floor and has panoramic views of the Bosphorus and cruise ships. If not take the tram back the Tophane stop or Cihangir stop before the last stop is where you can walk to cruise ship.

 

this was a quick and dirty reply I hope im making sense.

Edited by nervusvagus
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Hello,

 

I'm an Istanbul local. Would love to help with any questions.

 

The cruise port is basically in the center of istanbul so its very easy to get to anywhere. I know quite much about istanbul so I would love to help but I would need to know how many hours you spend in the city. I'm sure everyone loves their city but for me spending just 1-day in istanbul is like... having just one bite from a really good kebab.

 

That said there is plenty to do depending on you and your schedule.

 

HOHO Bus is a bad idea for one day. Traffic is too much.

 

If you had 7-8 hours in the city and the energy to walk here is what I would do:

 

1-Get off the cruise and start walking up the hill you see ahead of you. Whereever you walk up, you should end up in this busy pedestrian street called Istiklal caddesi. This is the "cultural center" of istanbul. Lots of museums, galleries, churches, cafe's, bars and above all, people.

 

2- Turn left on istiklal and walk straight. As the street ends another smaller street begins which cars can (rarely) pass and this will take you to Galata tower. There is a restaurant-cafe named Kiva Han here serving traditional turkish and ottoman food maybe you'd like to sample some.

 

3- After galata tower go back towards the smaller street you were on and walk down the hill to the sea side. Where ever you land you must be near Galata Bridge. There is a nice cafe-charcuterie named NAMLI here which sells Turkish made cheese and meat products.

 

4- Cross Galata bridge.

 

5- The big mosque you see infront of you is Eminonu and Eminonu mosque. It was built by the mother of a sultan. she was of jewish origins but captured and was in the harem after age 14. The mosque is smack in the middle of a jewish neighbourhood in ottoman times. strange. But as you see this mosque, also notice the smaller mosque and its minaret to the right. This smaller mosque named Rüstem Pasa Mosque is renowned for its colorful ceramic tiles. there is a red color named "coral red" , here, after the master died ottomans worked hard to replicate this color and they couldnt. Getting carried away sorry, the mosque is in a trade disctrict called "basket makers" busy, cultural, small streets.

 

6- walk back on the busy little streets towards eminonu mosque visiting the coffee maker kahveci mehmed efendi's store when you sense the smell. buy ground turkish coffee. walk into spice bazaar. walk out of spice bazaar. find sirkeci tram station and buy a token from the vending machines, they're easy to operate, you put turkish lira in, for example 10 liras, and if you press OK it gives you a token, if you press the other button it increases the number of tokens you'll get. each token is 3 liras.

 

7- take the tram 2 stops towards the other side of water to Sultanahmet. Only 2 stops but its up the hill.

 

8- touristic red heat zone. we are in the center of "historic center". haghia sophia museum (long lines and 20tl to enter) . sultanahmet mosque (free to enter but if its prayer time you might have to wait... or just say "please" and they should let you in with everyone)... topkapı palace (huge and tiring to walk in but its the palace what can you do) then back to the underground cistern (around 20tl to enter) to cool off.

 

9- The column of constantine is at the next tram stop but its a nice walk just a little up hill. column of Constantine is where istanbul started. The column is like a birthday candle of the city. It's also -practically- where christianity started.

 

10- if you feel too tired from the walk up hill visit Çemberlitaş turkish bath, its good even in hot weather. its usually crowded so you dont get to experience the calming properties of the marble and dome but then again with 8 hours in istanbul, no reason to calm down.

 

11- Grand bazaar is nearby. buy turkish bath towels from Egin Tekstil. Buy copper turkish coffee pots. Buy gold jewelry while at it? Visit Nick MErdenyan's store Nicks Caligraphy in OLD BEDESTEN and see the caligraphy he does on leaves.

 

12- If its before 4pm find Subasi Lokantasi near Cuhaci Han, "the chef's plate" is a plate of selections of the chef usually good food.

 

13- I guess it would be time to go back. exit grand bazaar and take the tram back the Tophane stop or Cihangir stop before the last stop is where you can walk to cruise ship.

 

this was a quick and dirty reply I hope im making sense.

 

Hi, & welcome to Cruise Critic.:)

Yes, your post makes sense, and your local knowledge will be appreciated by members.

 

I won't argue with a local ;), but for cruisers - who have limited time in Istanbul - I would point out that numbers 1 to 3 are on the cruise ship side of the Galata Bridge, and aren't generally considered as important to visitors as the sights in & near Sultanahmet.

So I'd suggest leaving them til the end of your time in Istanbul, start by taking the tram to Sultanahmet & work your way back down the hill to Eminonu/Galata Bridge.

Then fit in 1 - 3 on your return to your ship if you have the time.

 

JB :)

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yes that is correct, I'll be taking my first cruise in July (on msc divina to venice) so I'm not sure about how much time one has in a city. There is a possibility that historical quarter is barely enough for a cruise visit to istanbul so yes I think first-things-first approach might be the ideal way. :o

 

 

Hi, & welcome to Cruise Critic.:)

Yes, your post makes sense, and your local knowledge will be appreciated by members.

 

I won't argue with a local ;), but for cruisers - who have limited time in Istanbul - I would point out that numbers 1 to 3 are on the cruise ship side of the Galata Bridge, and aren't generally considered as important to visitors as the sights in & near Sultanahmet.

So I'd suggest leaving them til the end of your time in Istanbul, start by taking the tram to Sultanahmet & work your way back down the hill to Eminonu/Galata Bridge.

Then fit in 1 - 3 on your return to your ship if you have the time.

 

JB :)

Edited by nervusvagus
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Great information! Thanks for sharing!

If you have two days in Istanbul, really 1.5 days, how would you proceed? Also are there any tours that would go by the airport and then back to the ship?

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Great information! Thanks for sharing!

If you have two days in Istanbul, really 1.5 days, how would you proceed? Also are there any tours that would go by the airport and then back to the ship?

 

There are no tours that go by the airport. To get to airport from cruise docks would require a transfer from the tram system thats infront of the docks to another one and it would take around an hour and 10 minutes one way.

 

In 1.5 days, After grand bazaar, since you dont have to rush you can first visit a hookah cafe if you can handle tobacco smoke, its very nearby grand bazaar and called Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medresesi.

 

From there walk over to Süleymaniye Mosque. Beautiful mosque. This will turn into "alternative istanbul tour" now but as you are walking to Süleymaniye mosque from Grand bazaar you'll probably be on Fuat Paşa Caddesi and on your left side if you notice a big "car park building" enter and go to top floor. That has amazing view of the historic quarter. If you dont want to climb the strairs in the car park, Süleymaniye Mosque also has a nice view of golden horn from the garden anyways. Sultan Süleyman was the first monogamous sultan (who ever gave him the idea; we dont like him) . He is buried next to his wife.

 

That also leaves time for a better turkish bath such as Mihrimah Sultan bath. It's not nearby Süleymaniye but the taxi should cost a maximum of $10 usd. (Keep in mind: Crazy traffic between 4:30pm-7:30pm everywhere) .female section of local bath's close early around 7:30pm and while there you can visit the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque which is the most beautiful mosque in the city in my opinion, inside is like a lightbox. The architect is the most famous architect of Turkish-Ottoman history, Sinan. The architect, it is rumored, was in love with Rüstem Paşa's (of earlier mentioned mosque, which was also built by sinan) wife Mihrimah Sultan (daughter of Süleyman) maybe thats why its nice.

 

Near Mihrimah Sultan mosque is the Chora Church with mosaics and frescoes. A stop by at Ağa Kapısı Cafe for a nice view of the Golden Horn and turkish coffee. Followed by a walk through the old jewish neighbourhood Balat.

 

You can also include the short bosphorus tour in your itinerary in the afternoon (2:30pm). The ships arrive and leave from the other side (other side from the cruise ship docks side) of the Galata bridge. Choose this -official- one its cheap, the ship is big, it takes 2 hours:

http://sehirhatlari.com.tr/en/timetable/short-bosphorus-tour-363.html

 

The next day can be a visit to Kadıköy on the asian side. Ships leave on the "cruise docks side" of Galata bridge, right near the bridge though.

 

Crossing bosphorus bridge with the hoho buses is also an option.

 

Ortaköy is also a nice neighbourhood right under the first bosphorus bridge.

Edited by nervusvagus
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There are no tours that go by the airport. To get to airport from cruise docks would require a transfer from the tram system thats infront of the docks to another one and it would take around an hour and 10 minutes one way.

 

In 1.5 days, After grand bazaar, since you dont have to rush you can first visit a hookah cafe if you can handle tobacco smoke, its very nearby grand bazaar and called Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medresesi.

 

From there walk over to Süleymaniye Mosque which has a nice view of golden horn from the garden.

 

That also leaves time for a better turkish bath such as Mihrimah Sultan bath. It's not nearby Süleymaniye but the taxi should cost a maximum of $10 usd. (Keep in mind: Crazy traffic between 4:30pm-7:30pm everywhere) .female section of local bath's close early around 7:30pm and while there you can visit the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque which is the most beautiful mosque in the city in my opinion, inside is like a lightbox. The architect is the most famous architect of Turkish-Ottoman history, Sinan. The architect, it is rumored, was in love with Rüstem Paşa's (of earlier mentioned mosque, which was also built by sinan) wife Mihrimah Sultan maybe thats why its nice.

 

Near Mihrimah Sultan mosque is the Chora Church with mosaics and frescoes. A stop by at Ağa Kapısı Cafe for a nice view of the Golden Horn and turkish coffee. Followed by a walk through the old jewish neighbourhood Balat.

 

You can also include the short bosphorus tour in your itinerary in the afternoon (2:30pm). The ships arrive and leave from the other side (other side from the cruise ship docks side) of the Galata bridge. Choose this -official- one its cheap, the ship is big, it takes 2 hours:

http://sehirhatlari.com.tr/en/timetable/short-bosphorus-tour-363.html

 

The next day can be a visit to Kadıköy on the asian side. Ships leave on the "cruise docks side" of Galata bridge, right near the bridge though.

 

Crossing bosphorus bridge with the hoho buses is also an option.

 

Ortaköy is also a nice neighbourhood right under the first bosphorus bridge.

 

Thank you for all the detailed information! Appreciate it greatly! My daughter is an architect and think she would love the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque.

 

Our ship leaves at 1 p.m. after an overnight visit. Unfortunately, our daughter has to fly to the Netherlands for work so we need to get her to the airport safely so that is why I was asking about a tour that went near the airport.

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