Review of 3rd April 2013 Buenos Aires to Florida via Cape Horn and the Panama Canal

[harz99]

Not so much a review as a travelogue this is from a B2B four week cruise on Celebrity Infinity in March 2013. The missing day numbers are sea days.

 

Day 1 Buenos Aires

 

We chose to fly from the UK to BA with Alitalia via Rome because at the time we book the luggage allowance for Economy was two checked cases each, although this has now dropped to the normal one 23kg per person. Two very uneventful flights saw us arrive at our destination bang on time at 0810, immigration was easy, but the baggage collection and customs x-ray check was a nightmare, with multiple lines and people cutting in, arms waving, shouting etc. etc. – just what you want after a long overnight flight.

 

Still, we eventually got through and found the “Manual Leon Tendra” booth for our pre booked transfer, they called our driver and after a swift but safe drive we arrived at the port around 11.30am, and were on board within 45 minutes. First port of call was the shorex desk to use up some of our OBC then lunch at Bistro on 5 followed, and the rest of the day was spent relaxing, unpacking and so on.

 

Day 2 Buenos Aires.

 

Today we took a port shuttle bus from the ship to the port terminal, then taxi from the port terminal to the city and found the office and start point for the HOHO bus, bought our tickets for one day and simply rode around taking in all the sights – that took 3 Hours! Worth noting that although the service is HOHO, when you start from the office you are assigned a timed ticket for a specific initial departure which may not be the next available bus. Plenty of info on line, and maps at the HOHO bus office. The commentary can be a bit hit and miss as to whether it works or not.

 

Day 3 Montevideo

 

A simple walk off and through the cruise terminal leads past tourist info people and an office for maps and info, including a pamphlet about the Graf Spee and associated matters, but note the Naval Museum is a taxi ride away and was closed 12-2 when we were there. On exiting the port, cross the main road and a clearly defined walking route to the centre is available ahead, past a market and a few bars, to the left and into the central area.

 

We really wanted to visit many of the museums which are located within easy walking distance of the port, unfortunately many proved to be either closed for renovation or not open until the afternoon so we changed tack and headed for the central area which has many lovely buildings and an open park area. On return we tried a local’s bar and visited the market and its spectacular (and very hot) food court.

 

Day 4 Punta Del Este

 

Although tenders are used, this is another easy to walk around port. Again port maps are available from Tourist Info staff at the tender dock, although the actual Info office was closed. There used to be a HOHO bus but this is no longer running so ignore any information for it. Heading uphill from the yacht club you should come to Avenue Gorlero on your left, which runs like a spine through shops, craft market and along to the beach areas on the opposite side of the peninsula from where you landed. The souvenir shops here are quite reasonably priced and not at all pushy.

 

Day 6 Puerto Madryn

 

This was the first of our ships excursions. We took PM01 to see Peninsula Valdes and some of its wildlife, specifically the Elephant Seals, but also penguins and others. It proved to be everything we wanted, not the crowded walk through the penguins type experience, but watching from a distance and filming/snapping. The provided lunch was pretty poor – think ham or cheese rolls and water – but there’s plenty of food back on ship. Also quite a lot of travelling. For best results and memories bring binoculars and a good long range camera.

 

Day 8 Sailing Cape Horn

 

After reading all the accounts of rough seas etc. rounding the Cape, what did we get – almost flat calm seas and at one point sunshine. The weather was so good that we were able to round the horn at low speed due to our being ahead of schedule.

 

Day 9 Ushuaia

 

The end of the world, or the southernmost city in the world greeted us with light rain and stiff winds, the first such weather we had seen. We had joined up with a small group on a private tour which took us into the mountains, and two huge lakes amongst other things, before dropping us back in town where we found a former London Transport Routemaster bus on local tours, and enjoyed a local beer in one of the many bars, and got our end of the world certificate from the Tourist Info office before walking back to the port.

 

Day 10 Punta Arenas

 

Our second tender port at which another windy and slightly damp day greeted us, as did our friends from yesterday on another private tour with South Excursions which took us around the city sights on foot and then for a coastal drive to see both Fort Bulnes and some small villages around the coast line – the coldest day so far. If you wished, it would be very easy to have just walked the sights in town at leisure. A small hint – keep your Chilean Immigration Forms until you have left your final Chilean port – the ship doesn’t issue them at every port.

 

Days 11 &12 Sea Days

 

The straights of Magellan were not as kind as the Horn, so we were rockin’ and rollin’ today.

 

Cruising the Chilean Fjords proved more restful and very picturesque.

 

Day 13 Puerto Montt

 

Our second ships tour was PT01 Varas & Frutilla. All I can say is don’t waste your money. We had the slowest coach possible, and despite going to two of the most picturesque places you can imagine with snow capped mountains and freshwater lakes, we were first taken to a craft market and then a German Museum with little time for anything else before the slo-o-o-w ride back. Try and find a private tour!

Our feedback to the shorex desk brought us a 20% refund.

 

Day 15 Valparaiso

 

This being changeover day, and wanting to visit Santiago we had felt it easiest to prebook the ships tour VP05 Santiago Highlights which is a full day starting 0745. The drive was misty at first but cleared on the outskirts of Santiago. We covered all the highlights of this relatively modern city (earthquakes) and had free time at the main square before lunch at the Azul Profundo café/restaurant which was very good and introduced us to the drink Pisco Sour. After that it was a drive by some of the other sights before heading back through the hills and countryside which we could now see.

 

Day 16 La Serena (from Coquimbo).

 

We again took a ships tour, LE22 English Immigrants, which became the source of our second 20% refund. Mostly drive by various sights, we wasted a lot of time trying to gain entry to the English Cemetery despite the tour being listed as drive by only, then we wasted even more time back at the main square with free time before being driven up to the local fort for a snack and drink and then heading back again to the ship. Even then the tour was well short of the advertised 5.5 hours. Avoid this one.

 

Day 18 Arica

 

Here we again joined a private tour, this time one organised and led by a lady who put an awful lot of her time into organising and collating both info and people – Susan Harwood we thank you! Today was a city tour, drive into the interior with various stops, visit to the museum claiming to have the oldest mummies in the world (this place was overrun with tourists and chaotic), and an artists village. More detail by googling “Sertours” and looking at tour 7. A good and interesting day. Again it would have been an easy walk around the city sights for the less adventurous.

 

Day 20 Lima (from Callao)

 

Our second tour with Susan’s group was with Peru Inca Wonders (number 1 tour) and took us around old and new Lima, to the site of the Pachacamac Temple which predates the Inca’s, a Gold Museum (with much more than just gold) and an Indian craft Market. The temple site is huge and a fair amount of walking is needed, also not suitable for wheelchairs at all. All in all, a diverse and interesting day.

 

Day 23 Manta

 

Our third and final tour, with Susan’s group by Metropolitan Manta. A fleet of small vans took the group members in various directions to the Pacoche Rain Forest where we walked along the riverbed through the forest looking for, spotting, and listening to various wildlife. This was followed by lunch – good, needed a rest – and a coastal drive, visit to the home of Panama hats at Montecristi and back to port. Another very diverse and interesting day, not however recommended for anyone with mobility issues, and certainly not for wheelchairs.

 

Day 25 Panama Canal Transit

 

The canal is what it is. A working museum in many respects and a testament to the engineering skills of both all who worked on the construction, and those that maintain it today. Now of course, another channel is being cut to enable larger ships to make the transit which should be open in 2015.

 

Day 26 Panama City (from Colon)

 

So what do we do after safely reaching land at Colon? Get on a coach of course and drive all the way back the route we have just cruised to Panama City on ships tour CO64! The Shaping of Panama is a drive around and by type tour with commentary, and as such may not suit a lot of people with its limited free time at photo calls. Lunch was in a large hotel and of good quality. After lunch it was back via the country road through the jungle instead of the new motorway, which gave some different views before rejoining the ship.

 

Day 27 Cartagena

 

Here, having been before and it being Good Friday we opted for our final ships tour, CA01 La Popa & Museums. A very good whistle-stop tour taking in the Monastery on the hill and more. Obviously very busy on a religious holiday, but enjoyable and one of the few ships tours that were good value.

 

Day 30 Fort Lauderdale

 

The end of this particular adventure was never going to be welcomed with open arms – a bit like our disembark really. The same comments have probably been made by others recently, but Port Everglades pulled out all the stops to make the experience as bad as it could possibly be. Put simply, two and a half hours to get from the ship past immigration and out of the terminal is ridiculous.

 

Other matters

 

We ate in the MDR on Select dining for 75% of the meals taken on board, apart from one lunch and one dinner when we had a very, very slow waiter (the same both times) service was good, and food quality good to excellent. On the few occasions we used the buffet at lunch, we seemed to always be rushed due to the early time it closes, especially when ships tours often return at or near that time. There is a clear need for the main lunch buffet to remain open until 3pm, and the rear sandwich bar to 3.30pm.

For breakfast we either used the Elite breakfast (decent) or for early starts room service (average at best).

 

Entertainment in the form of the production shows is getting tired, although that maybe because we have seen these shows several times before. The Celebrity cast did a very good job and unlike some of our experience on other ships appeared to be well matched as to their talents. Some of the guest artistes we have seen before and some were clearly geared to the large number of Spanish speaking guests and were not our taste at all. The orchestra were often too loud, sometimes almost drowning out guest artistes which is sad really as I am sure the audience would prefer to hear the singers/pianists/whatever rather than a wall of noise.

 

Our cruise director was Alejandro; he was presumably allocated for his birthplace and proficiency in Spanish. As a CD he doesn’t cut it for us. He has no air of authority and gives the impression of a nervous clown when faced with a theatre full of people. Rich, Sue, Steve where were you?

 

Almost without exception all the Celebrity employees we spoke to or encountered from Captain Lekkas down were friendly, polite and efficient, as we have come to expect. Jenny, the Captains Club hostess was particularly charming and a darn fine singer too. As usual we spoke to many new people, and hit it off with two in particular, so John and Joan from Peoria, Illinois – if you’re reading this – Hi!

 

Finally, we enjoyed most of the enrichment speakers talks and unusually also (for the first leg only) the port speaker, who was very informative and not the slightest bit the usual excursion hard seller.

 

All in all an excellent cruise. Now if only Celebrity would produce an itinerary that covered Brazil down to Buenos Aires………………

 

Doug.

[grayjay]

Thank you for this great review.

I fairly jumped on reading it because we have sailed on "Infinity" in February ( to Antarctica) and will take the same cruise as yours in 2014. So we'll especially bear in mind what you wrote about the ship's excursions and the private tours. Thank you again for sharing!

Jenny is marvellous as a Captain's Club's hostess, isn't she? I sincerely hope she'll be back after her well-earned vacation.

Contrary to your views we quite liked Alejandro as a CD - we thought him witty and funny and simply a bit different BECAUSE he wasn't as refined as others we have met. And he never seems to sleep - he sometimes greeted us on the gangway in the morning, handed out hot chocolate in the loooong queue at the tenders on the Falklands and officiated at quite a lot of quizzes and game shows.

[Azulann]

Thank you for your very detailed review.

The itinerary which includes the tip of SA is on my bucket list.

And I loved going through the panama canal on my previous cruise.

[harz99]

As nobody has spotted my deliberate mistake yet i'll own up; it was of course 3rd MARCH, not April.:o

[Keith1010]

I enjoyed your travel log and I am glad you enjoyed the cruise.

 

Keith

[TommyD3]

We did this (plus Antarctica the segment before) three years ago. Back then they had a dinner option called Rodizio every formal night up in the buffet. It was a sit down meal with all you can eat meats carved at your table. Really quite amazing. It was only offered on the South America cruises. Unfortunately, I think they have gotten rid of this. Can you tell me if they still offer it or not. Thank You.

[portofrome]

Thanks for your review.

[harz99]

We did this (plus Antarctica the segment before) three years ago. Back then they had a dinner option called Rodizio every formal night up in the buffet. It was a sit down meal with all you can eat meats carved at your table. Really quite amazing. It was only offered on the South America cruises. Unfortunately, I think they have gotten rid of this. Can you tell me if they still offer it or not. Thank You.

 

Hi, not that I am aware of. As I said we ate mostly in the MDR, but I do keep my eyes peeled and certainly did not read or see anything about such an option - maybe you could do a separate post asking that question?

[TommyD3]

Hi, not that I am aware of. As I said we ate mostly in the MDR, but I do keep my eyes peeled and certainly did not read or see anything about such an option - maybe you could do a separate post asking that question?

 

Thanks for the info. Tom

[Northern Aurora]

Thanks for the review. We are booked for a B2B2B in 2015, and the last two legs are the two cruises you did. We are just starting to research the port options, but rarely do ship sponsored excursions.

[cormike1]

Thanks for your great post. We are doing this next March but we end up in Miami, not Ft. Lauderdale. That might be a good thing by the sounds what you said. I am really looking forward to seeing some of SA. Thanks again.

[alcpa1]

Thanks for the review Doug.

I really miss you both.

 

If I may add a couple of thoughts....

We were only on the Valpo - Fll leg...

 

It is difficult to find decent private excursions for Coquimbo - La Serena. If you have spent time in Santiago you surely have been to the Andes and an interior trip from these coastal neighbors is both redundant and difficult time wise. There will be drivers who will do local tours for about $20 USD per person in small vans. Our driver was not terribly proficient in English, nor particularly descriptive of his region but a little homework will make the day worthwhile. The tour was about 3 1/2 hours.

 

Lima is a large city without a limited access highway system. Just be patient with the traffic. Doug is correct about accessibility at Pachacamac. We climbed a pebbled path up to one of the pyramids. It would not be suitable for not only wheelchair access but for anyone with limitations. However, there is much to be seen from the base and the tour was wonderful.

 

If you have not been to Cartagena you will be ever so surprised. We toured with Dora deZubiria and she rightfully recommended we not attempt to climb the fort. Her reasoning was sound. If we could have gone there early in the morning after acclimating to the heat and humidity for a few days it would not be stressful. It's all the more reason to return on a land trip.

 

We ate in the specialty restaurants and thought Qsine was the better of the two. Our dinners in Blu were much better than the USS for our tastes. We only had a couple of lunches in the MDR and they were fine. We should have gone back to Bistro on 5 more often but we were sailing with a group and the will of the masses usually prevails.

 

I too would be highly interested in a cruise including Rio. We are already thinking about the Atlantic to Pacific South American cruise.

[socreader]

Not so much a review as a travelogue this is from a B2B four week cruise on Celebrity Infinity in March 2013. The missing day numbers are sea days.

 

Day 1 Buenos Aires

 

We chose to fly from the UK to BA with Alitalia via Rome because at the time we book the luggage allowance for Economy was two checked cases each, although this has now dropped to the normal one 23kg per person. Two very uneventful flights saw us arrive at our destination bang on time at 0810, immigration was easy, but the baggage collection and customs x-ray check was a nightmare, with multiple lines and people cutting in, arms waving, shouting etc. etc. – just what you want after a long overnight flight.

 

Still, we eventually got through and found the “Manual Leon Tendra” booth for our pre booked transfer, they called our driver and after a swift but safe drive we arrived at the port around 11.30am, and were on board within 45 minutes. First port of call was the shorex desk to use up some of our OBC then lunch at Bistro on 5 followed, and the rest of the day was spent relaxing, unpacking and so on.

 

Day 2 Buenos Aires.

 

Today we took a port shuttle bus from the ship to the port terminal, then taxi from the port terminal to the city and found the office and start point for the HOHO bus, bought our tickets for one day and simply rode around taking in all the sights – that took 3 Hours! Worth noting that although the service is HOHO, when you start from the office you are assigned a timed ticket for a specific initial departure which may not be the next available bus. Plenty of info on line, and maps at the HOHO bus office. The commentary can be a bit hit and miss as to whether it works or not.

 

Day 3 Montevideo

 

A simple walk off and through the cruise terminal leads past tourist info people and an office for maps and info, including a pamphlet about the Graf Spee and associated matters, but note the Naval Museum is a taxi ride away and was closed 12-2 when we were there. On exiting the port, cross the main road and a clearly defined walking route to the centre is available ahead, past a market and a few bars, to the left and into the central area.

 

We really wanted to visit many of the museums which are located within easy walking distance of the port, unfortunately many proved to be either closed for renovation or not open until the afternoon so we changed tack and headed for the central area which has many lovely buildings and an open park area. On return we tried a local’s bar and visited the market and its spectacular (and very hot) food court.

 

Day 4 Punta Del Este

 

Although tenders are used, this is another easy to walk around port. Again port maps are available from Tourist Info staff at the tender dock, although the actual Info office was closed. There used to be a HOHO bus but this is no longer running so ignore any information for it. Heading uphill from the yacht club you should come to Avenue Gorlero on your left, which runs like a spine through shops, craft market and along to the beach areas on the opposite side of the peninsula from where you landed. The souvenir shops here are quite reasonably priced and not at all pushy.

 

Day 6 Puerto Madryn

 

This was the first of our ships excursions. We took PM01 to see Peninsula Valdes and some of its wildlife, specifically the Elephant Seals, but also penguins and others. It proved to be everything we wanted, not the crowded walk through the penguins type experience, but watching from a distance and filming/snapping. The provided lunch was pretty poor – think ham or cheese rolls and water – but there’s plenty of food back on ship. Also quite a lot of travelling. For best results and memories bring binoculars and a good long range camera.

 

Day 8 Sailing Cape Horn

 

After reading all the accounts of rough seas etc. rounding the Cape, what did we get – almost flat calm seas and at one point sunshine. The weather was so good that we were able to round the horn at low speed due to our being ahead of schedule.

 

Day 9 Ushuaia

 

The end of the world, or the southernmost city in the world greeted us with light rain and stiff winds, the first such weather we had seen. We had joined up with a small group on a private tour which took us into the mountains, and two huge lakes amongst other things, before dropping us back in town where we found a former London Transport Routemaster bus on local tours, and enjoyed a local beer in one of the many bars, and got our end of the world certificate from the Tourist Info office before walking back to the port.

 

Day 10 Punta Arenas

 

Our second tender port at which another windy and slightly damp day greeted us, as did our friends from yesterday on another private tour with South Excursions which took us around the city sights on foot and then for a coastal drive to see both Fort Bulnes and some small villages around the coast line – the coldest day so far. If you wished, it would be very easy to have just walked the sights in town at leisure. A small hint – keep your Chilean Immigration Forms until you have left your final Chilean port – the ship doesn’t issue them at every port.

 

Days 11 &12 Sea Days

 

The straights of Magellan were not as kind as the Horn, so we were rockin’ and rollin’ today.

 

Cruising the Chilean Fjords proved more restful and very picturesque.

 

Day 13 Puerto Montt

 

Our second ships tour was PT01 Varas & Frutilla. All I can say is don’t waste your money. We had the slowest coach possible, and despite going to two of the most picturesque places you can imagine with snow capped mountains and freshwater lakes, we were first taken to a craft market and then a German Museum with little time for anything else before the slo-o-o-w ride back. Try and find a private tour!

Our feedback to the shorex desk brought us a 20% refund.

 

Day 15 Valparaiso

 

This being changeover day, and wanting to visit Santiago we had felt it easiest to prebook the ships tour VP05 Santiago Highlights which is a full day starting 0745. The drive was misty at first but cleared on the outskirts of Santiago. We covered all the highlights of this relatively modern city (earthquakes) and had free time at the main square before lunch at the Azul Profundo café/restaurant which was very good and introduced us to the drink Pisco Sour. After that it was a drive by some of the other sights before heading back through the hills and countryside which we could now see.

 

Day 16 La Serena (from Coquimbo).

 

We again took a ships tour, LE22 English Immigrants, which became the source of our second 20% refund. Mostly drive by various sights, we wasted a lot of time trying to gain entry to the English Cemetery despite the tour being listed as drive by only, then we wasted even more time back at the main square with free time before being driven up to the local fort for a snack and drink and then heading back again to the ship. Even then the tour was well short of the advertised 5.5 hours. Avoid this one.

 

Day 18 Arica

 

Here we again joined a private tour, this time one organised and led by a lady who put an awful lot of her time into organising and collating both info and people – Susan Harwood we thank you! Today was a city tour, drive into the interior with various stops, visit to the museum claiming to have the oldest mummies in the world (this place was overrun with tourists and chaotic), and an artists village. More detail by googling “Sertours” and looking at tour 7. A good and interesting day. Again it would have been an easy walk around the city sights for the less adventurous.

 

Day 20 Lima (from Callao)

 

Our second tour with Susan’s group was with Peru Inca Wonders (number 1 tour) and took us around old and new Lima, to the site of the Pachacamac Temple which predates the Inca’s, a Gold Museum (with much more than just gold) and an Indian craft Market. The temple site is huge and a fair amount of walking is needed, also not suitable for wheelchairs at all. All in all, a diverse and interesting day.

 

Day 23 Manta

 

Our third and final tour, with Susan’s group by Metropolitan Manta. A fleet of small vans took the group members in various directions to the Pacoche Rain Forest where we walked along the riverbed through the forest looking for, spotting, and listening to various wildlife. This was followed by lunch – good, needed a rest – and a coastal drive, visit to the home of Panama hats at Montecristi and back to port. Another very diverse and interesting day, not however recommended for anyone with mobility issues, and certainly not for wheelchairs.

 

Day 25 Panama Canal Transit

 

The canal is what it is. A working museum in many respects and a testament to the engineering skills of both all who worked on the construction, and those that maintain it today. Now of course, another channel is being cut to enable larger ships to make the transit which should be open in 2015.

 

Day 26 Panama City (from Colon)

 

So what do we do after safely reaching land at Colon? Get on a coach of course and drive all the way back the route we have just cruised to Panama City on ships tour CO64! The Shaping of Panama is a drive around and by type tour with commentary, and as such may not suit a lot of people with its limited free time at photo calls. Lunch was in a large hotel and of good quality. After lunch it was back via the country road through the jungle instead of the new motorway, which gave some different views before rejoining the ship.

 

Day 27 Cartagena

 

Here, having been before and it being Good Friday we opted for our final ships tour, CA01 La Popa & Museums. A very good whistle-stop tour taking in the Monastery on the hill and more. Obviously very busy on a religious holiday, but enjoyable and one of the few ships tours that were good value.

 

Day 30 Fort Lauderdale

 

The end of this particular adventure was never going to be welcomed with open arms – a bit like our disembark really. The same comments have probably been made by others recently, but Port Everglades pulled out all the stops to make the experience as bad as it could possibly be. Put simply, two and a half hours to get from the ship past immigration and out of the terminal is ridiculous.

 

Other matters

 

We ate in the MDR on Select dining for 75% of the meals taken on board, apart from one lunch and one dinner when we had a very, very slow waiter (the same both times) service was good, and food quality good to excellent. On the few occasions we used the buffet at lunch, we seemed to always be rushed due to the early time it closes, especially when ships tours often return at or near that time. There is a clear need for the main lunch buffet to remain open until 3pm, and the rear sandwich bar to 3.30pm.

For breakfast we either used the Elite breakfast (decent) or for early starts room service (average at best).

 

Entertainment in the form of the production shows is getting tired, although that maybe because we have seen these shows several times before. The Celebrity cast did a very good job and unlike some of our experience on other ships appeared to be well matched as to their talents. Some of the guest artistes we have seen before and some were clearly geared to the large number of Spanish speaking guests and were not our taste at all. The orchestra were often too loud, sometimes almost drowning out guest artistes which is sad really as I am sure the audience would prefer to hear the singers/pianists/whatever rather than a wall of noise.

 

Our cruise director was Alejandro; he was presumably allocated for his birthplace and proficiency in Spanish. As a CD he doesn’t cut it for us. He has no air of authority and gives the impression of a nervous clown when faced with a theatre full of people. Rich, Sue, Steve where were you?

 

Almost without exception all the Celebrity employees we spoke to or encountered from Captain Lekkas down were friendly, polite and efficient, as we have come to expect. Jenny, the Captains Club hostess was particularly charming and a darn fine singer too. As usual we spoke to many new people, and hit it off with two in particular, so John and Joan from Peoria, Illinois – if you’re reading this – Hi!

 

Finally, we enjoyed most of the enrichment speakers talks and unusually also (for the first leg only) the port speaker, who was very informative and not the slightest bit the usual excursion hard seller.

 

All in all an excellent cruise. Now if only Celebrity would produce an itinerary that covered Brazil down to Buenos Aires………………

 

Doug.

 

Thanks for the review. We will be doing the same trip in 2014 with the same private tours. It is nice to see that we will have a good chance to enjoy ourselves.