Trip Report of Cruise on English Canals and Rivers - Oct 2022

[pontac]

We took our third cruise of 2022 in October, but this was unlike our previous Viking & Scenic River cruises because we hired a narrowboat and cruised for two weeks on some of the English canals and rivers.

 

There are more than 2,000 miles of navigable waterways managed by the Canal & River Trust, and while some are standalone, most connect making a vast network. We made a circular trip.

 

Canal builders used contours to keep the canal at the same level, so they twist and turn and often the ground drops away on one side while level or rising on the other. The canals pass through ravines and along embankments, cross rivers on aqueducts and sometimes pass through tunnels. Canal builders used rivers where they could; we travelled on Rivers Trent, Saor and Sence.

 

We used Nicholsons’ Waterways Guide which is based on the very detailed official Ordnance Survey maps. It’s at a scale of two inches to one mile and every lock, bridge, marina, waterside pub is shown, also information on sights along the way, towns and more. It was invaluable.

Where the ground level changes too much, there are locks. These generally are 7ft wide and 70ft long, restricting the size of narrowboats to 6ft 10 inches wide and under 70 feet long. On rivers they built weirs to maintain the upper water level and locks to bypass weirs

 

We rented a 68 foot boat. One doesn’t need a license to drive a narrowboat and instruction is given. It’s quite simple. There’s a lever for speed forward and reverse and a tiller to steer. To operate locks you use the supplied windlass to open & shut gates (paddles) which let water in and out and your body to push lock gates open and closed.

 

Maximum allowed speed is 4 miles an hour, or less if the boat causes a wave to break on the bank, and minimal when passing moored boats and anglers. Together with time spent in locks average speed is 2 or less miles an hour. Travel in the dark is not allowed, so possible cruising time is much shorter in winter.

 

We’d rented boats in the distant past but didn’t feel up at our age to leap off a boat to manage locks, but our son Dan and his partner Krisie take canal holidays every year and they agreed to crew the boat. In return we paid for the boat and evening meals. The only time Dan & Krisie could get two weeks off work at the same time was October so on Saturday 8 October we met at Napton Marina at the start of our canal and river cruise.

[pontac]

Day 1 Saturday - Napton to Baunston

 

 

 

 

We met Dan and Krisie at Napton Marina at 14:15. The staff showed them the gubbins (technical term) of Annabelle (above) our home for the next two weeks and we were off at 15:30 heading eastwards to Braunston, five miles away on the Grand Union Main Line Canal. We arrived two hours later at 17:30.

 

 

 

Cruising in the dark isn't allowed so shorter winter days limits cruising time. It was bright and sunny but cold.

 

 

 

The route Dan planned was to head east to Braunston, and from there north up the Leicester Branch of the Grand Union, turning west onto the River Trent, then turn south on the Coventry Canal back to Braunston, and then west to return the boat to Napton Marina, following the blue route (above) anticlockwise

 

 

 

Dan had made a booking for us at The Boatyard at Braunston where the Steak and Ale pie enclosed in shortcrust pastry satisfied a boater's hunger.

 

There was a complimentary bottle of Champagne in Annabelles fridge which we enjoyed before dinner.

 

Napton to Braunston - 5 Miles - 0 Locks - 2 hours

 

[pontac]

Day 2 Sunday - Braunston to Crick

 

 

 

 

 

We departed at 09:30 heading east towards the Leicester Branch of the Grand Union.

 

 

 

We soon reached Braunston Tunnel. Opened in 1796 it is longer than a mile, at 2,048 yards. 

 

 

 

There's no lighting, other than the boat's headlight and the air gets progressively colder as the boat steadily heads into darkness. It took 20 minutes before we emerged

 

 into a green tunnel of overhanging trees.

 

 

At Norton Junction we steered left onto the Leicester Branch

 

 

 and soon came to our first lock flight.

 

 

 

 

Canal & River Trust volunteers were there to assist, operating paddles and gates on one side while Krisie (above) did the other. It took almost an hour to traverse the seven locks which raised us 52.5 feet.

 

 

 

Then we came to Crick Tunnel, built in 1818 and 1528 yards long. This was short and straight enough to see the other end before we entered it.

 

 

 

Krisie had special t-shirts and caps made for her and Dan. The shirts bore a picture of a narrow boat on the front and the word CREW in large on the back. The caps had CREW. And that was true: as experienced narrow boaters they worked the boat while we enjoyed the views.

We arrived at Crick at 16:00, bought Cava in Crick Co-op and enjoyed a bottle before dinner at The Wheatsheaf.

 

 

 

As it was Sunday, I had roast beef and we shared a bottle or two of excellent Franschhoek Cellars The Churchyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

Braunston to Crick - 9 miles - 13 locks - 2 tunnels - 5h45

(stopped 45 minutes for lunch)

[pontac]

Day 3 - Crick to Gumley Road

 

 

 

 

We left Crick at 09:40. Travelling in October showed bright colours as leaves changed from green, such as this bright yellow tree, and bushes were covered in berries.

 

 

 

Dan spent all day, every day, standing at the tiller.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A canal meanders through the countryside and you could be many miles from towns.

 

 

 

Many of the original brick-built hump-backed bridges are farm tracks joining fields separated by the canal's construction.

 

 

 

We came upon our third tunnel in two days. Husbands Bosworth Tunnel was completed in 1813 and is 1166 yards long.

 

 

We moored at Gumley road bridge at 17:10, and walked in the dark to the Bell Inn in Gumley. No taxi would come for us so a waitress at the pub kindly took us back to the boat.

 

 

 

 

Back on board the Captain and crew discuss the coming route. We have moored just before the Foxton Flight of locks. 

 

Crick to Gumley - 18 miles - 0 locks - 1 tunnel - 6h45 

(45m lunch stop)

[pontac]

Day 4 - Gumley Road to Kilby Bridge

 

 

 

 

We departed at 09:40 and immediately came to the Foxton Lock Flight. Boats have to register with the Canal and River Trust volunteers who manage the passage of boats through the flight of 10 locks. 

 

 

 

The flight, which took four years to build, was completed in 1814 and is the longest, steepest staircase flight of locks in Britain. It will  take us down 75 feet to the plain we can see far below.

 

 

 

Midway is a pool to allow a boat coming up to pass a boat coming down, thus doubling the through put.

 

 

 

 

The front gate of each lock became the rear gate of the next lock.

Each lock is only wide enough to take one boat, so an 'inclined plane' was later built along side. This could take two boats at a time up or down on rails.

 

 

 

 

Even with the assistance of CRT volunteers, there were a lot of paddles to open and close and lock gates to move.

 

 

After 50 minutes in the flight we were through and as it was now close to lunch we stopped while the cafe cooked bacon and sausages in bread rolls for our lunch.

 

 

 

 

But there were more locks, here we have to drop to pass under the bridge.

 

 

 

And the 880 yard long Saddington Tunnel.

 

 

 

Here we pause to let an oncoming boat through the bridge, and we moor for the night at 18:45.

 

I was sceptical of Dan's plan that Deliveroo would accept a bridge as the delivery point, but it did, and we ordered from Tipu Sultan. The portions were huge and they also gave us a vegetable curry and poppadoms we hadn't ordered.

 

Gumley to Kilby Bridge - 10 miles - 22 locks -1 tunnel - 8 Hours

[pontac]

Day 5- Kilby Bridge to Birstall Lock 45

 

 We left at 09:00 with a stop to fill up with water and dump rubbish.

 

 

The canal architects incorporated the River Sence and, on this stretch, Sence joins the larger River Soar and the waterway widens. 

 

 

 

We had to stop at King's Lock (named after George King, the longest serving lock keeper, who lived in this cottage for the forty years he managed the lock).

 

 

 

The delightful tea rooms in the lockkeeper's cottage cook to order and they offered to deliver our sausage and bacon baps to the boat when they were ready, so that was lunch.

 

 

 

 

This heron wasn't put off by us using the lock.

 

 

 

 

 

 

But we were approaching Leicester where we saw relics of the industrial past which were the reasons for the canals.

 

 

 

We had a reservation at The White Horse, a canal side pub which was a very short walk from where we moored at 17:35. 

 

 

 

They had one of the best red wines of our trip, a 2018 South African blend of 36% Shiraz and 32% each of Cinsaut and Pinotage, from the inimitable Bruce Jack.

 

Kilby Bridge to Birstall Lock 45 - 15 Locks - 12 miles - 7h50

plus 45 minutes moored for lunch

[pontac]

Day 6 - Birstall to Normanton

 

 

 

We left Birstall at 09:10 

 

 

 

Vivid green floating weeds sometimes left only a narrow channel to steer the boat down

 

 

 

and they clogged some lock gates, but herons found the floating weed-beds good place on which to stand.

 

 

 

We moored for lunch at Barrow-upon-Soar and walked into the town for supplies.

 

 

 

After lunch we had to pass Barrow Lock. Krisie found it easier to use the road bridge (Bridge 29 - Barrow Lock Bridge) to get to the lock paddles on the other side.

 

 

 

But she did get some time to watch the passing scenery.

 

 

This splendid rail bridge has the date - 1860 - it was completed picked out in dark bricks.

 

 

 

 

The spire of Normanton church was visible above tree for a long time before we reached it.

 

 

 

Nicholson's Guide says, "The inhabitants of Normanton guard their waterfront jealously, making it extremely difficult to get ashore."

 

 

 

Luckily there was space for our 68 foot boat at The Plough where Dan had made a dinner booking for 19:00. 

 

We moored at 17:00 and had time to explore. Nicholson's warned of a chain ferry at Normanton but we saw no sign of it from the boat. An information sign at its jetty said the ferry's history could be traced back over 800 years but now it operated only at weekends between April and September. 

 

Normanton's church is next to the ferry. It was built before 1256 and replaced an earlier church. 

 

 

 

 

By now it was getting dark, so we returned to the boat for a restorative glass of fizz before dinner, and to admire the sunset.

 

Excellent food at The Plough and they gladly brought extra servings of vegetable and chips. 

 

 

 

I had the Boozy Bullock Pie, described as In memory of Audrey whose recipe made this pie famous. A delicious shortcut pastry case packed with lean tender beef cooked with beer, red wine, onions, mushrooms. bacon and herbs.

Leaving the pub after dinner we had only to go to the end of its garden to find our beds.

Birstall to Normanton - 14 miles - 9 Locks - 6h20

(plus 90 minutes moored at lunchtime)

[pontac]

 Day 7 - Normanton to Weston Lock

 

 

After leaving Normanton at 08:50 we cruised north on the River Soar until it merged into the River Trent onto which we turned left to travel westward.

 

 

 

The river was the widest we'd encountered. The first lock we came to, by passing a weir, was brilliant; automatic and operated by a CRT volunteer who pushed buttons to open and close paddles and lock gates.

 

We moored at 16:40 and dined in the Coopers Arms that is in the basement of Weston Hall, a 17th century mansion house beside a lake. It was dark so we couldn't see the lake, but we did see the joints of roast meats on the carvery, and we all chose the carvery dinner.

 

Normanton to Weston Lock - 13 miles - 11 locks - 5h50 

(plus 1 hour lunch stop)

[pontac]

Day 8 - Weston Lock to Barton Marina

 

 

 

 

We left early at 08:05 as we wanted to moor the night in Barton Marina. Dan had spoken to them by phone and was told they don't take reservations, so he didn't want to arrive late and find there were no visitor moorings left.

 

 

 

We were back on a narrow canal after the wideness of River Trent.

 

 

 

There were stretches of farmland.

 

 

 

When passing moored boats one has reduce speed so the boat makes no wake to rock them. Thus the time it takes from travel from one place to another depends on unknowns including the number of moored boats - and anglers who also have to be passed at minimum speed.

 

But our Captain was pleased with our progress. We arrived at the modern Barton Marina at 16:20 and tied-up at short time moorings by a row of shops and cafes. 

 

 

Krisie returned with the bad news that the marina office closed at 16:00, twenty minutes before we arrived. Dan was unable to raise anyone by phone and no-one in the shops knew anything. The moorings were behind gates and without a key one could not leave the boat.

 

We were midway through the cruise and planned on using the marina's self-serve laundry and pump-out services; both now closed to us.

 

After an hour or so Dan steered the boat back to the canal and moored. We had a consolatory glass of fizz and walked down a road to our evening meal.

 

 

 

 

We had a booking at The Waterfront at the marina, and when we saw this Garlic and Rosemary pizza bread with red onions under starters we ordered one to share as it brought back memories of the delicious complimentary garlic pizza bread served at Beyerskloof Winery Bistro.

 

 

 

A bottle or two of South African Chenin Blanc and very good fish and chips restored us, but Dan was thinking about where to go for a pump-out.

 

Weston Lock to Barton Marina -16 miles - 5 locks - 6h15

plus 55 minutes moored for lunch and shopping at Willington.

[pontac]

ay 9 - Barton to Tame Otter, Tamworth

 

 

We stopped here at Alrewas for water and to get the Sunday newspapers.

 

 

 

There are other canal users. We didn't see many canoes and, in this narrow stretch, the canoeists moved to the bank to let us pass.

 

Trees were laden with red berries or iridescent blue sloes.

 

 

 

 

We turned left at Fradley Junction. Immediately there is a swing bridge that must be pulled open, but another narrow boat coming in the opposite direction had opened it and we could pass through.

 

 

 

But Krisie closed it, and we moored and walked to the Laughing Duck Cafe at the junction for lunchtime sausage or/and bacon filled baps.

 

We were now on the Coventry Canal and heading south back to our starting point. But this stretch of canal soon becomes the Birmingham and Fazely Canal which was built before the Coventry Canal who bought it.

 

 

 

We moored alongside The Tame Otter at 15:50 and had a walk. We were in the Hopwas area of Tamworth.

 

 

 

Just past the Tame Otter was a bridge over the River Tame and we realised the pub's name referred to its location rather than to an otter that wasn't wild,

 

 

 

and that Tamworth also took its name from the river. But we had heard of the Tamworth pig, however this metal one on the roadside was the closest we got to a real one - unless its rashers were our lunchtime roll filling.

 

 

 

Also by the roadside were these magnificent mushrooms.

 

 

 

Dan had a voucher for a bottle of Prosecco from the Vintage Inns group which he used at the Tame Otter, and jolly good it was while we waited for our main course.

 

 

 

It was Sunday so I had roast beef, and we enjoyed a couple of bottles of Penfold's Koonunga Hills Shiraz-Cabernet 2019.

 

Barton to Tame Otter - 13 miles - 6h40 - 7 locks - 1 swing bridge

plus moored time 25m shopping & 35m lunch...

[pontac]

Day 10 - Tamworth to Glascote

 

 

 

 

 

We left The Tame Otter at 10:00 and headed towards Fazeley Junction where we stopped first for water then made a small diversion past an old mill and down the Birmingham and Fazeley Canal to Fazeley Mill Marina for a pump out, since we'd been unable to use the planned mooring at Barton Marina two nights before. 

 

 

 

Then we turned back and made a sharp right under Bridge 77 (above) and we were back on our route along the Coventry Canal.

 

 

 

We saw very few moving boats all day, and this stretch seemed very remote. 

 

 

 

Aqueducts carried the canal over a couple of rivers, including the Tame (above) which we'd walked over in Hopwas the previous evening.

 

 

 

Because of the time spent getting water and on the diversion and pump out, the planned route had to be changed and we moored early in Glascote in Tamworth at 15:45.

 

Dan took advantage of an early finish to open the engine compartment to check the gubbins. Krisie slipped and fell onto the engine. She was in a lot of discomfort and it was possible she had cracked ribs. Dan called 111 and they arranged a callback from a doctor. While we waited we had a takeaway from Miah Indian Takeaway. Much later a doctor called and said she should go to the nearest A&E, so Dan called a taxi. Luckily there were no cracked ribs, but Krisie was in a lot of pain. 

 

Tamworth to Glascote - 7 miles - 2 locks - 4 hours

(plus 2 hours for water, pump out and lunch stops)

Edited November 19, 2022 by pontac

[pontac]

Day 11 - Glascote to Atherstone

 

 

 

 

 

 

We left Glascote at 10:00 on another gloriously clear sunny day and soon came to countryside.

 

 

The countryside was lush. Leaves were dropping and every now and again Dan went into reverse to clear leaves from the propeller, but trees still had most of their leaves.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Joan insisted on wielding Krissie's windlass and doing lock duties. Krisie was knocked out by the heavy-duty pain killers she'd be given by the hospital.

We moored at 15:40 and, after our usual aperitif of fizz, Dan collected a Fish and Chip takeaway dinner.

Glascote to Atherstone - 8 miles - 6 locks - 4h25

plus 1h15 moored for lunch.

 

[pontac]

Day 12 - Atherstone to Hawkesbury Junction

 

 

 

 

We left Atherstone at 09:55 and soon came to Atherstone locks, which were staffed by cheery Canal & River Trust volunteers. CRT volunteers were easily recognised, not so much by their CRT jackets, but by the orange life-jackets they all wore and walkie-talkies that were clipped to them.

 

 

 

Out of Atherstone there were sections where the canal passed fields of crops,

 

and places where trees hung over the canal.

 

 

 

 

We reached Hawkesbury Junction and moored on the other side of this footbridge (above) by the tow path at 16:05 and had time to explore before it got dark. The Engine House (above) was first used in 1821 by a Newcomen engine which pumped water from an underground stream to feed the canal. The stream had dried by 1913 when the Engine House fell into disuse.

 

 

 

Dan had made our dinner booking at The Greyhound a couple of minutes stroll from our mooring.

I thought this might be a touristy place, but the bar was packed with locals and the restaurant area was busy and with well trained professional staff. The food menu was encompassing but the wine list was dire with just four reds. The only information given for three of the was the grape variety and country, the fourth was shown as Rioja Crianza, Spain. Rioja is a reliable choice, being bottled in the country of origin. The others could be bulk shipped plonk given a fancy label by the importer or fine estate wines but there was no way of telling from the list. A strange thing on the list was an 'orange' wine from France.

 

 

 

I chose Vegetable Balti, served with a garlic and coriander rice, vegetable samosa, onion bhaji, naan bread with mango chutney & mint yoghurt dips (above) which was delicious and the most memorable meal of the trip

[pontac]

Day 13 - Hawkesbury Junction to Newbold

 

 

 

We left our mooring at 09:55. 

 

Hawkebury Junction links Britain's two oldest canals, the Coventry and the Oxford. Both run close and parallel for a short distance, meaning we had to make a 360 degree turn in the pool in front of the Greyhound to join the Oxford Canal. It's a very tight turn in a 68-foot boat, and it started to rain.

 

 

 

Coventry Canal's tow path is carried over the water on the 50ft cast-iron Junction Bridge.

 

 

 

There is a seven-inch difference in water levels between the two canals, so we had to go through a lock to go on the Oxford Canal. A CRT volunteer was on hand to give advice, but Dan had to operate the windlass. Another cast-iron bridge carried the Oxford tow path.

 

 

 

Leaving Hawkesbury Junction behind we had the canal to ourselves.

 

 

 

Showers were frequent.

 

 

 

Just before Newbold is the 250-yard Newbold Tunnel, the first I'd seen with a tow path. It was built in 1829 replacing an earlier tunnel as part of a project to shorten the route of the original Oxford canal which took 44 miles to cover two points that were 16 miles apart. The original canal followed natural contours and thus twisted. Its straightening reduced the length by 11 miles and cut five hours off journeys.

 

We moored at 15:40 at Newbold-on-Avon and went for a walk to discover the local Co-op. 

 

 

 

We had a dinner reservation at the Barley Mow. This is a canal-side pub, but it was positioned for the old canal so now it is at an angle to the current one. As usual we had to pass through an honour guard of smokers at the pub door.

 

Hawkesbury to Newbold - 11 miles - 1 lock - 1 tunnel - 4h35

plus 1h50 moored for lunch.

[pontac]

Day 14 - Friday - Newbold to Braunston

 

 

 Our last full day.

 

 

 

We left Newbold at 09:30 and it was dry and bright but at 11:15 it started to rain heavily.

 

 

 

The supplied waterproofs proved not to be proof against heavy rain, but it didn't seem to worry Dan.

 

 

 

Rain let up for a while as we approached Braunston but started again. 

 

 

 

Several fields along the river showed signs of mediaeval strip farming, as shown by 'ripples' in the grass  

 

We moored at 15:50, most of the places were taken and we couldn't tie-up close to the pub.

 

 

 

Heavy rain had soaked the tow path which was mostly muddy puddles. We were back at The Boathouse which we'd dined in at the start of our cruise. Dan found a route back along the road to avoid the worst of the tow path.

 

Newbold to Braunston - 10.5 miles - 3 locks - 5h20

plus an hour moored for lunch

[pontac]

Last Day 15 - Saturday - Braunston to Napton

 

 Left Braunston at 07:00 because the boat had to be returned by 09:00.

 

 

 

When we got to Napton Marina one of the staff boarded to manoeuvre us in. We then had 30 minutes to vacate the boat.  Then a team boarded to replace gas cannisters and clean the boat.

 

After a few minutes in the office for Dan with the final paperwork we said farewells. Dan and Krisie headed home to North Wales with a stop for breakfast while we drove in the opposite direction.

 

Two weeks on Midlands canals had gone by in a flash. We'd eaten better evening meals than I expected in convenient canal side pubs and - apart from the last Friday - we'd been blessed with sunny clear days.

 

 

Passengers and crew of Annabelle in The Boathouse on the last night.

 

Braunston to Napton - 5 miles - 0 locks - 2 hours

[pontac]

Would we do it again?

 

Yes, but in summertime.

 

Countryside is beautiful. the people are friendly and slow travel is relaxing. There's a camaraderie amongst boaters and lots of sites on land worth exploring, which in the short cruising days of winter we had too little time to see.

[Canal archive]

Well done pontac we recently sold our narrowboat mainly for the reasons you had your son working with you. We narrowboated for many many years so I should point out that there are broad canals as in over 14ft wide such as the Grand Union and Kennet & Avon and not all canals are contour built usually these were the earlier canals. Nicholsons hold a mine of useful information and I would say we’ve navigated a huge amount of the system using them. Apart from a few areas in the midlands 70ft is the longest boat able to navigate the system and 6ft10ins the widest but on the broad canals just under 14ft is the widest. We had a day out on the GU in the summer and we’re meeting our friends later today for a meal on board their beautiful narrowboat, I must admit to having a bit of a green eye that they are still able to cruise.

[Gourmet Gal]

Lovely voyage.  Thanks for sharing!

[*Miss G*]

Wow.  Gorgeous pictures and a fabulous trip!  I cringed when Krisie fell.  Thank you for sharing!  I really enjoyed it.

[Daisi]

Thanks for an excellent write up. River boating is one thing we would like to add to our bucket list after friends of mine purchased a narrow boat & we have been living through their adventures.

 

I hope Krisie is OK, and the pain passed quickly.

Edited November 19, 2022 by Daisi

[mimmy52]

Wow, what an adventure! Thank you for sharing. Great pictures, and so interesting.

[Roz]

Thank you for taking the time to write such a detailed review and share your photos with us.  What memories you've made!

[AnhaltER1960]

Great report. Thank you for sharing.

[notamermaid]

Thank you for sharing your adventure. I have seen the narrowboats on the canals near Manchester in the Peak District and the crew operating all the lock gates. Fascinating. Would like to be on a narrowboat for a bit, not sure that I could handle such a long trip, though.

 

notamermaid