JUST BACK from Beyond: Italy, Croatia, Montenegro & Greek isles, 07-15 May - Extensive trip report w/pics

[George C]

On 5/23/2023 at 8:00 PM, dlh015 said:

Excellent review!!
 

Yes, cats everywhere in Kotor...which was an unexpected gem for us...

 

 

When we were there the church was celebrating a huge anniversary something like there 750 anniversary, got pictures with there guards , everyone was super friendly. 

[Ducky_01]

Day 8, Naples.  Our final port-of-call (and the final part of my trip report .. thanks all for sticking with me, I hope you enjoyed reading this as much as I enjoyed writing it).  To say it was a visit to "Naples" is a misnomer, as we never really left the terminal grounds, and spent approximately 40 minutes ashore - roughly the time it took to stroll 500 metres to the adjacent Beverello port and queue for a fast ferry to the island of Capri.   

 

This is incredibly easy to do on your own, as the ferry port is adjacent to, or possibly within, the Port of Naples (just on your left as you leave the impressive cruise terminal building) and in fact, I'm not sure what the benefit would be of booking this excursion with Celebrity as we all ended up on the same ferry to Capri and back?  Two private companies (SNAV and NLG) operate direct ferries to Capri from Naples, the roundtrip journey will set you back €45 return, per person.  At least at the beginning of the season, and on a quiet and cloudy Sunday, no reservations were needed.  The journey takes less than an hour each way. You could presumably take one company's ferry there, and another's back (€22.50 one way, pp) but for peace of mind we just booked the roundtrip to have certainty of a spot on the return ferry in time for the ship departure.  The ferry is uneventful .. and packed! Bring a mask if you're not comfortable with crowded places, and choose to ignore the snide remarks from fellow day-trippers about the gargantuan, modern cruise ships that come to Naples (I think they're mostly just jealous - it truly is an impressive sight to sail past your ship!)

 

Supposedly a playground for the rich and famous, there is still plenty to see and do for ordinary folks on this charming and compact island. Everyone disembarks at Marina Grande, which makes it quite crowded. Instead of following the crowds to the funicular, we chose instead to take the public bus up the mountain to Anacapri.  While you can do the same trip in a station wagon (UK: estate car) convertible-cum-taxi, we thought the cramped, bumpy ride by public bus (€2.20pp, one-way) only added to the charm.  From Marina Grande pier, turn right and pick up your tickets from the well-marked biglietteria (the same one that sells funicular tickets) before joining the queue. Buses leave every 10-15 minutes.  We knew this was going to be one interesting journey when the aggressive female driver (just stating fact, not opinion) backed the bus right into the steel stanchion holding up the awning over the queue, without flinching! 🙃

 

The ride to Anacapri takes about 20 minutes, and if you were standing, remember to hold onto something or someone tightly as the bus careens up the narrow mountain road.  Every so often, as the driver slows down momentarily to take a hairpin turn, you can make out incredible views of the bay. We arrived with the mountaintop thick with dense fog, so the higher up we went, it seemed as if the bus was navigating its way through the clouds. The bus unloads at Piazza Vittoria, where it felt immediately less crowded and more peaceful.  It is a short walk up the stairs to public toilets (€1 per entry, it helps to carry loose change!) and also the entrance to Monte Solaro chairlift (€14pp, return).  We would suggest doing this only on a clear day - we decided to skip it since the chairs looked as if they were just disappearing into clouds and instead meandered down through the quaint, sleepy village (much less crowded than Capri) with a gelato in hand. The main shopping street loops around and back, and along the way you get a sneak peek into gardens filled with lemon trees and private orchards.  

 

From Anacapri, we decided to make our way on foot down the Scala Fenicia.  The start of this walk is Villa San Michele, just follow the tour groups from the chairlift station as their guides lead them down a narrow, tree-lined street to scenic viewpoints overlooking the Marina Grande.  Step through the arched entranceway and descend hundred of steps that hug the steep cliffs.  On the way down, we met couples headed the opposite direction up, and based on the irritated looks that several wives were giving their husbands, we think that the way down is our preferred route (over the more arduous route up).  When the path levels out, you can follow the main path back to Marina Grande, or else follow the path that veers right and goes slightly uphill - a short 20 minute walk, and you will eventually wind up among the shops and restaurants of Capri town.  After enjoying the scenic viewpoint, you can then take the funicular back down to Marina Grande (€2.20pp, one-way), but before you leave town don't forget to try a delicious lemon sorbet, scooped out of a lemon!

 

This was a great excursion to cap off our journey through four countries!  Alas, it was time to go, and our last sail away was unfortunately a rainy one.  We went back to Eden to enjoy the aft views from a dry indoor location - if you're into boats then this is a good spot to watch sailboats enter the nearby marina, as well as the ferries as they come and go from Beverello port.

 

Evening.  Once our bags were packed, we made one last stroll through the ship on our way to Cosmopolitan, the last main dining room that we had not yet tried (we went to each of the four MDRs, and enjoyed them all).  Although there was no stated dress code, we were surprised to see so many fellow passengers make the effort on this evening to dress up in evening chic attire (how or where you manage to pack this before they take your suitcases away, I'm less sure).  Our last bit of entertainment was perhaps the most fun .. Silent Disco Battle of the DJs!  I must say, this event in Grand Plaza eventually attracted quite the crowd, and must have been a real sight to see or hear, even if just a bystander.  We also thought it was a nice touch to schedule this on the final night, with consideration for passengers who may have been off early to bed for early AM departures.

 

Tips for the day:

• For your last night, bring a smaller carry-on bag to hold a change of clothes, toiletries, and other essentials.  For newbies, unless you intend to walk off the ship with all your luggage in tow, your stateroom attendant will request you pack your heavier, larger suitcases the night before, and they will take them away ~10PM.  On arrival at port, they will be waiting for you when you disembark the ship.  Forget a carry-on bag?  No problem, just use the complimentary canvas bag in your room or else if money is no option then I suppose you could also purchase a bag at one of the expensive shops onboard?
• Bring a change of old clothes that you don't mind parting ways with.  Here's another possible last-day hack: looking to throw away an old pair of trousers, or time to toss that shirt you never really wear at home?  Bring them with you on the cruise to wear on the final day, and then you won't need to pack them up.. just toss them when you disembark! 
• Skip Naples, and head for Capri.  Unless you love the hustle-and-bustle of a big city, we think the island of Capri was much less crowded and a more charming excursion option. Don't be dissuaded by the large crowds that queue up for each ferry in Naples.. they tend to quickly thin out once on the island, and especially so the farther you travel away from Marina Grande. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 25, 2023 by Ducky_01
because I like to tinker

[theopup]

Thanks Ducky_01, we will be in Naples on the Ascent next July, so this s very helpful 

[Kelownadon]

If only I had read this prior to our going to Naples on previous cruises. Now I at least know what we are going to do next time. Thanks for your excellent review and perspective. 

[peanut head]

This was one of the most informative, detailed and fun to read reviews I have seen in a long time.  Thank you!  

[BuckeyeMark]

Really good writing, and as others have said, FUN!  Thanks for sharing your cruise with us.

[Tom+Deb]

Some very nice pix! Well done, you.

--

Tom Saknit

Redacted Photography™

www.TomSaknit.com

Instagram: @tomsaknit

[mauimary]

We were on this same cruise as you were and loved it.  Very fun to read your review. We had never been to any of the ports except for Naples.   We were DIY so explored all the ports on our own.  It was fun to run into Capt Kate on her way down the mountain. She is very personable. The weather was not the best but held out long enough for us to do what we wanted to do. 
Thank you for your report. 

[Ducky_01]

Epilogue. Firstly, thanks to everyone for your supportive comments on my first cruise report. Apologies it took so long to compile, I'm not one for spontaneity at the best of times. If you could please indulge me in one last post, I'd like to reflect upon what made this cruise in particular so great. DW said it best: a first-time cruiser, she always knew that I was going to enjoy this holiday, but she was pleasantly surprised by how much she loved this cruise as well.

Why? We've already covered the ship, the ports, the officers and crew, the entertainment and activities, the food .. even the tendering. One last contributing factor put this ship over the top (or should I say, above and beyond.. pun intended 🙂), and that is: the passengers themselves.

With all due respect, this is not a Carnival party cruise. But that isn't to say we didn't have fun on this ship. Nor is it a Disney family cruise. But similarly, the few families that were onboard seemed to really enjoy themselves. BTW, for those who complain about the lack of children's amenities, TBH I found most parents simply brought their children along with them, whether that was to dining on formal night, dancing at the Silent Disco at the Grand Plaza, or watching the amazing late-night theatre performances (and it was nice to see families together!).. think about it this way: would you ever feel that was safe or appropriate to bring your kids to the disco in, say, a big city?

Since the first time they were recommended by my parents, I've found Celebrity just has a way of attracting a laid-back, unpretentious clientele of all ages and backgrounds (mostly Americans, Canadians, and Brits on this cruise). I disagree with the comments that X marketing is solely focused on a younger, affluent generation of vloggers (though no one seemed phased by me tinkering with a Gopro in the plunge pool 🤓). Ironically, I found the most tech-savvy passengers, those glued to their phones at times, to be "young at heart" retirees in their early 60s who gladly indulged in the Wifi package just so they could stay connected to their children and grandchildren. Were they uploading stories for all their followers on TikTok or Instagram? Probably not but if so, I'd follow them!

Equally noteworthy was how polite and considerate most people were: despite the inclement weather we never found a lack of chairs at the Solarium (so no chair hogs), no one cut in line at the buffet or while queuing to leave the ship and while I'm sure many opted for beverage packages, we never saw anyone over-indulge in alcohol. Might our holiday have been different if we'd gone with Marella?

The result is a friendly, easy-going and congenial group that we found to be more and more approachable through the course of the week. By the first sea day, we were already engaging in brief elevator chats with complete strangers, asking 'how are you enjoying your cruise so far'? And I feel they were genuinely interested! Later in the cruise, have you ever noticed that you also begin to recognize familiar faces? Like the friendly couple from the mid-west who waited patiently with us in the rain for a Celebrity bus to come rescue us in Corfu, and then cheered loudly when we just made the cut-off (sorry to those behind us). They told us how much they loved ballroom dancing, and sure enough, we found them on several occasions boogying on the dance floor! Or the friendly but quiet Quebecois couple on our excursion in Zakynthos, who didn't let language barrier prevent them from sending a friendly smile our way whenever we crossed paths on the ship. And then there was the group on our delayed  outbound flight who shared the common bond of almost missing this cruise together - now, sitting at the bar in the Club as we waited for the next show to begin, we gladly swapped stories with the couple who sat beside us on the flight and we looked forward to seeing them on the plane journey home.

It is true that a cruise ship is full of people, thousands in fact. Some naysayers will tell you that's a disadvantage of this type of vacation, but I think in fact it's the people that make cruising so much fun and enjoyable.

So with that .. happy cruising everyone, thanks to everyone in this community for their helpful comments and suggestions, and I wish you all the best wherever your travels take you!

Edited May 26, 2023 by Ducky_01

[Ducky_01]

3 hours ago, mauimary said:

We were on this same cruise as you were and loved it.  Very fun to read your review. We had never been to any of the ports except for Naples.   We were DIY so explored all the ports on our own.  It was fun to run into Capt Kate on her way down the mountain. She is very personable. The weather was not the best but held out long enough for us to do what we wanted to do. 
Thank you for your report. 

And thanks for your review, as well! I enjoyed reading about the TA that preceded this cruise.

[mauimary]

Just now, Ducky_01 said:

And thanks for your review, as well! I enjoyed reading about the TA that preceded this cruise.

Your welcome. Still working on it!!!

[Georgia_Peaches]

One of the best trip reports…ever!  Thank you for the wonderful pics and detail. Dare I say, I read the entire thing with a British accent in my head which sounds just as wonderful in print!

 

Your report has me looking at this itinerary for 2025. 

[Pennstatedj]

Great review. Happy cruising.

 

[Ducky_01]

2 hours ago, Georgia_Peaches said:

One of the best trip reports…ever!  Thank you for the wonderful pics and detail. Dare I say, I read the entire thing with a British accent in my head which sounds just as wonderful in print!

 

Your report has me looking at this itinerary for 2025. 

OK, now for a dose of British cynicism 🙂 .. possible reasons for such a pleasant experience may have been (1) we travelled off-peak on the first sailing of the season and (2) the rains may have actually kept local crowds at bay in each port.  So possibly factor "timing" in if choosing a similar itinerary?  Happy planning!

[Ducky_01]

On 5/25/2023 at 2:32 PM, Ducky_01 said:

Day 8, Naples.  Our final port-of-call (and the final part of my trip report .. thanks all for sticking with me, I hope you enjoyed reading this as much as I enjoyed writing it).  To say it was a visit to "Naples" is a misnomer, as we never really left the terminal grounds, and spent approximately 40 minutes ashore - roughly the time it took to stroll 500 metres to the adjacent Beverello port and queue for a fast ferry to the island of Capri.   

 

This is incredibly easy to do on your own, as the ferry port is adjacent to, or possibly within, the Port of Naples (just on your left as you leave the impressive cruise terminal building) and in fact, I'm not sure what the benefit would be of booking this excursion with Celebrity as we all ended up on the same ferry to Capri and back?  Two private companies (SNAV and NLG) operate direct ferries to Capri from Naples, the roundtrip journey will set you back €45 return, per person.  At least at the beginning of the season, and on a quiet and cloudy Sunday, no reservations were needed.  The journey takes less than an hour each way. You could presumably take one company's ferry there, and another's back (€22.50 one way, pp) but for peace of mind we just booked the roundtrip to have certainty of a spot on the return ferry in time for the ship departure.  The ferry is uneventful .. and packed! Bring a mask if you're not comfortable with crowded places, and choose to ignore the snide remarks from fellow day-trippers about the gargantuan, modern cruise ships that come to Naples (I think they're mostly just jealous - it truly is an impressive sight to sail past your ship!)

 

In case it wasn't clear in this part of my report, you must buy your tickets from the well-marked booths for SNAV and NLG, in advance of queuing for the ferry (they will also have independent schedules, although the departure and return times seemed to be roughly the same). As far as I'm aware, you cannot buy tickets aboard the ferry, and in fact you'll probably be denied entry if you don't have a ticket, which could be disappointing.  Apologies, hope that helps anyone planning DIY.

Edited May 26, 2023 by Ducky_01

[theopup]

Thank you for such an enjoyable review 

[NutsAboutGolf]

1 hour ago, Ducky_01 said:

OK, now for a dose of British cynicism 🙂 .. possible reasons for such a pleasant experience may have been (1) we travelled off-peak on the first sailing of the season and (2) the rains may have actually kept local crowds at bay in each port.  So possibly factor "timing" in if choosing a similar itinerary?  Happy planning!

 

This was shortest and only 8 night sailing of the season.  There is a single 9 night sailing that sales tomorrow which is over Memorial day and all other sailings are 10 or 11 nights

[bluwes]

What a great review. Really enjoyed it, we did a similar itinerary on the Reflection last summer. Would agree about your day in Naples, far better to take the hydrofoil to Capri. Seems most of Celebrity sailings involve Naples as a last day port before Rome. We’ve done tours to Pompeii, trip to Sorento and our favourite Positano. 2019 on the Edge we did an open top bus tour and it poured down half way round. Last summer we literally just walked the  mean streets of  Naples, 

[LizikinsLivesToCruise]

This has been a most enjoyable review! Thank you very much @Ducky_01 for taking the time to write it. Looking forward to your next cruise and report.

[MustBCruzn]

Thank you for taking the time to do this great review. We're on the Beyond on this same itinerary in May '24, and your review has us even more excited.

[sasset]

How would you rate the ease/difficulty of the stairs up to the Old Town Dubrovnik walls. We've encountered stairs that each step is about 50% taller than stairs encountered here. Are there hand rails?

[Ducky_01]

53 minutes ago, sasset said:

How would you rate the ease/difficulty of the stairs up to the Old Town Dubrovnik walls. We've encountered stairs that each step is about 50% taller than stairs encountered here. Are there hand rails?

They were pretty steep, but of a consistent step height and there were handrails. There's also 3 separate entrances. We noticed people of all sorts of fitness levels, I'd just take your time up/down and take a break if necessary. People can go around. Hope you enjoy!