really enjoying your reports. Your hike in Istanbul sounds like one George and I did a few years ago. We have been to Istanbul many times, and I have no issue using the taxis there--have done it a lot of times and didn't feel like I got scammed ever, but I decided to try the tram. We couldn't figure out how to get tickets, so we ended up walking, and walking, and walking, and pretty soon we had 20,000 steps. at any rate, it is good exercise and we ate well without guilt.
Agree about spacing the tours at tender ports--duh!