John and Diane are at it Again!

[Johnny B]

Saturday, February 15, 2014 - Day 42

At Sea en route to Cairns, Australia

 

We did get the lovely sleep-in this morning, not stirring until almost 7:45. We even skipped the gym, which almost never happens. I guess it was the non-stop Valentine’s Day celebrations that did us in, with beautiful decorations, great dining, dancing, and probably too much time spent in the Crow’s Nest. Maybe our next travel adventure will be to the Betty Ford Center!

 

There were red decorations everywhere, but the most permanent of them are the little metallic red heart confetti pieces that pretty much covered the floor of the Queen’s Lounge. As we packed for this trip, I found a couple of them on the sole of my red heels from the cruise two years ago. Today it’s not difficult to find them almost anywhere on the ship. One of the cleaning crew in the Queen’s Lounge said that it takes three hours of vacuuming to pick up those little suckers. I just checked the red heels again and, sure enough, there are dozens decorating the soles.

 

I mentioned earlier that a shipmate had had to be hospitalized in Sydney and that his close friends on the ship disembarked to keep him company, since his wife had already flown to Cairns for a diving excursion. Yesterday in Brisbane, all four of them re-boarded the ship, having flown from Sydney,but for two of them it was just to pack up to prepare to fly back to California this morning. It turns out that the husband had an 80% blockage in his carotid artery and he needs serious treatment or surgery, which they think he can best get at home. I still think that their friends are really, really good people for what they did.

 

One of the things that becomes apparent in situations like this is how much support the crew provides. They helped pack, pushed a wheelchair, and generally provided moral support to everyone involved. This is not in their job description; it’s just something that these wonderful young men and women seem to do without thinking about it. Our friend Tina, the assistant manager of The Pinnacle restaurant, is often seen pushing wheelchairs off the ship to make sure that some of the infirm passengers can have the same experiences that the other passengers do. It’s just another reason we love sailing HAL.

 

Tonight’s going to be a fairly quiet evening, I’m sure. There is a show that we want to see, however. It’s called “Beatle Magic,” and it advertises itself as “Australia’s Most Authentic Sounding Beatles Tribute.” As long time Beatles fans, how could we miss it?

[Johnny B]

Sunday, February 16, 2014 - Day 43

Sailing through the Great Barrier Reef

 

We awoke this morning to the sight of beautiful little islets which seemed to be almost at our doorway and great dark patches of coral reef under the sea. They are parts of the Whitsunday Islands, named by Captain James Cook on what he thought was Whitsunday, but turned out to actually be WhitMonday. I guess he didn’t realize he had crossed the International Date Line (which, of course, didn’t exist in those days).

 

We are on our way to Cairns, Australia, and the captain has boarded a Great Barrier Reef pilot who is guiding us through one of the few wonders of nature that can be seen from outer space. The route was not on our schedule, but as the captain said yesterday in his daily update, “This IS a world cruise, after all, and that’s why we do these kinds of things.” I guess he just wants us to feel special, which I think we all do (or ought to). We are just so darned lucky!

 

Our port lecturer, Barbara, has been narrating the history and geography of the area since about 7:30 this morning, and right now she’s telling us about Hamilton Island, the largest and most populous of the islands. On this island, cars are forbidden and inhabitants can only travel by way of foot, bicycle, or golf cart. I understand there are some very exclusive (and expensive) resorts here, but from the ship’s view, all we can see is the natural beauty, and it is amazing.

 

The water here contains several shades of blue, turquoise and green, with those great dark blue patches that we know are raised parts of the Great Barrier Reef. At our present position, in the Whitsunday Passage, the water depth is only a little over a hundred feet. I’m sure the scuba divers on board are just salivating. The reef attracts divers, snorkelers and just plain tourists from all over the world and it attracted us in 2012. We flew up from Sydney to spend three days in Cairns, one of which we spent on the reef. One takes a boat out to a huge platform (big enough for a football game), where we spent the day snorkeling and sunning to our hearts content. My favorite underwater photo taken that day is of a giant wrasse, bright blue and about four feet in length, who seemed like he just wanted to visit with everyone underwater. When that photo comes up on our computer slideshow, I just have to smile.

 

* * *

 

After a few hours, the islands were gone, the sky had clouded over, and we were back in the Coral Sea. The clouds made the sea grey, and the rain that began at lunchtime put a damper (no pun intended) on the back deck barbecue of kangaroo, emu, and crocodile. Daniel, the ship’s head chef, was back there and commented that every time they’ve scheduled a back deck barbecue it has rained, and it’s true. I suggested that he schedule his next barbecue in California, because we certainly need the rain. I did have a small piece of crocodile, since I’ve tasted the other two, and - you won’t believe this - but it tasted like barbecued chicken! It really did. Don’t worry, though, they didn’t have any koala on the barbie.

 

It was a beautiful sail through and over the Great Barrier Reef, and tomorrow we’ll arrive in Cairns (pronounced Canns) for our third and final Australian port. Even though rain is forecast, we’re really looking forward to it.

[cruz chic]

Thx for the update. I hope that passenger makes a full recovery.

[Johnny B]

Monday, February 17, 2014 - Day 44

Cairns, Australia

 

There is so much to do in Cairns that two years ago, we flew early from Sydney and spent three full days here, one at the Great Barrier Reef, one in Daintree rainforest, and one taking the antique train to the village of Kuranda and returning by Skyrail cable car through the rain forest. We loved each of our outings so much that we were very happy to return, especially since the ship docks pretty much in the middle of town.

 

Because we wanted to do something new, and because of a recommendation from our friend Greg, we took a one hour shuttle bus drive to Port Douglas, a beautiful little town north of Cairns. The drive, through tropical areas, was beautiful, and the weather, when we arrived at Port Douglas, was warm and humid with puffy clouds in clear skies. When a town has what’s called “Four Mile Beach,” how can it not be delightful? The town has a colonial feel to it, with old houses surrounded by wide porches. My friend Jan had a house that they said had an “Australian porch,” and now I understand why.

 

We walked to the harbor area first, where some young men were pouring ice into containers that were marked “fresh fish.” There was a small beach area nearby with a large sign that said “Danger” and went on to tell us that there was to be no swimming there because of crocodiles. Believe me, we weren’t even tempted.

 

Then we went the opposite direction on the main street and found ourselves at the aforementioned Four Mile Beach. It was beautiful, and the water was such that you could almost not feel your feet going into it - it was that warm. The signs near the beach

warned not only of crocodiles but of stinging jelly fish. Below the sign was a metal tube (like those used for receiving newspapers) that contained a large bottle of vinegar. The directions said to pour a generous amount on any jelly fish sting and NOT to rub it. What a warm invitation to the beach. In the entire length of the four miles, there was only one small area, about 100 by 150 feet that was roped off to be made safe for swimmers and watched over by a lifeguard. We did sit on the beach for awhile, but didn’t go swimming. Even though our local beach is cold enough to freeze your toes off, at least it doesn’t have crocodiles!

 

We had lunch at a place that looked like an old West saloon - and I guess it had been. John likes the salt and lemon pepper calimari, and I had burramundi and chips. I discovered that particular fish on a previous cruise, and I really like it in whatever form I find it. Washing it down with lager and hard cider kept the heat at bay, and then we had some time just to wander. At 3:15 it was time to meet our return bus, and the drive was equally as beautiful as the first one, with the added attraction of passing a field of kangaroos and wallabies just enjoying the day.

 

Arriving back in Cairns at about 4:30 gave us time to wander through the local Woolworths grocery store and peek into some souvenir shops. Even though all-aboard isn’t until 7:00, we figured we had a long enough day and deserved a rest on the ship. We really do like Queensland, Australia’s “Sunshine State,” and hope to visit again, but next time spending a few days exclusively in Port Douglas. Who knows, maybe we’ll actually see a crocodile then - like the several we did see in 2012 in the Daintree rainforest.

[erewhon]

Thank you for your reports.

 

Was the shuttle bus to Port Douglas a HAL excursion?

[MMDown Under]

Monday, February 17, 2014 - Day 44

Cairns, Australia

 

There is so much to do in Cairns that two years ago, we flew early from Sydney and spent three full days here, one at the Great Barrier Reef, one in Daintree rainforest, and one taking the antique train to the village of Kuranda and returning by Skyrail cable car through the rain forest. We loved each of our outings so much that we were very happy to return, especially since the ship docks pretty much in the middle of town.

 

Because we wanted to do something new, and because of a recommendation from our friend Greg, we took a one hour shuttle bus drive to Port Douglas, a beautiful little town north of Cairns. The drive, through tropical areas, was beautiful, and the weather, when we arrived at Port Douglas, was warm and humid with puffy clouds in clear skies. When a town has what’s called “Four Mile Beach,” how can it not be delightful? The town has a colonial feel to it, with old houses surrounded by wide porches. My friend Jan had a house that they said had an “Australian porch,” and now I understand why.

 

We walked to the harbor area first, where some young men were pouring ice into containers that were marked “fresh fish.” There was a small beach area nearby with a large sign that said “Danger” and went on to tell us that there was to be no swimming there because of crocodiles. Believe me, we weren’t even tempted.

 

Then we went the opposite direction on the main street and found ourselves at the aforementioned Four Mile Beach. It was beautiful, and the water was such that you could almost not feel your feet going into it - it was that warm. The signs near the beach

warned not only of crocodiles but of stinging jelly fish. Below the sign was a metal tube (like those used for receiving newspapers) that contained a large bottle of vinegar. The directions said to pour a generous amount on any jelly fish sting and NOT to rub it. What a warm invitation to the beach. In the entire length of the four miles, there was only one small area, about 100 by 150 feet that was roped off to be made safe for swimmers and watched over by a lifeguard. We did sit on the beach for awhile, but didn’t go swimming. Even though our local beach is cold enough to freeze your toes off, at least it doesn’t have crocodiles!

 

We had lunch at a place that looked like an old West saloon - and I guess it had been. John likes the salt and lemon pepper calimari, and I had burramundi and chips. I discovered that particular fish on a previous cruise, and I really like it in whatever form I find it. Washing it down with lager and hard cider kept the heat at bay, and then we had some time just to wander. At 3:15 it was time to meet our return bus, and the drive was equally as beautiful as the first one, with the added attraction of passing a field of kangaroos and wallabies just enjoying the day.

 

Arriving back in Cairns at about 4:30 gave us time to wander through the local Woolworths grocery store and peek into some souvenir shops. Even though all-aboard isn’t until 7:00, we figured we had a long enough day and deserved a rest on the ship. We really do like Queensland, Australia’s “Sunshine State,” and hope to visit again, but next time spending a few days exclusively in Port Douglas. Who knows, maybe we’ll actually see a crocodile then - like the several we did see in 2012 in the Daintree rainforest.

 

You chose well visiting Port Douglas for the day.

 

In November, 1996, President Clinton and Hilary Clinton chose Port Douglas as the place for a private holiday, during their official Australian visit.

 

The wooden houses, with verandahs around them, are what we call "Queenslanders".

 

The peak tourist season is May - September.

[Johnny B]

Tuesday, February 18, 2014 - Day 45

At Sea en route to Alotau, Papua, New Guinea

 

We’ve never been to New Guinea, so we don’t know if they still have headhunters or not, but since we’re spending two days there (separated by a sea day), we certainly hope not (JK) Because of our inexperience with the ports, we have fallen back on something we almost never do: we’ve booked an HAL shore excursion for each port.

Yes, they’re terribly overpriced, and yes, we hate wearing little stickers, and yes, we hate waiting 15 minutes to get off and then back on a bus, but book it we did. The problem is that, according to Barbara, the port lecturer, there is little tourism infrastructure in New Guinea. Because it seems such a fascinating place, with both tribal culture and World War II in its history, we just didn’t want to miss out on any of it.

 

Today dawned with beautiful blue skies, warm weather, and puffy white clouds. At midday, however, the only thing that was left was the warm weather, and the heavy rains that the captain had forecast chased John off the verandah and chased the other sun worshippers off the aft deck around the pool. The forecast for the rest of the day is similar: heavy rains interrupted by periods of sunny weather, with a constant temperature throughout the day in the mid 80’s as we approach the Equator (which we cross for the second time on Sunday the 23rd.)

 

The rest of the day was pretty quiet (for a world cruise, anyway). The sun has tried to stay out, with only a few periods of rain showers, and this afternoon, for the first time since “Amelia,” I went to the movies to see “Jefferson in Paris.” It was as interesting as a historical novel, I guess, and not too cheesy, so I’ll give it one thumb up.

 

Dinner is just the regular “smart casual” this evening, but we’re going to be eating at Jeff’s table. Two of his tablemates, sisters named Ann and Cathy, are just “a hoot” and we enjoy the company of all of them. Later, the show is a “mentalist” who goes by the name of Phoenix. I guess he’s a mind-reader, so perhaps I’ll just finish my book after dinner. Actually, I feel obligated to finish it ASAP, because we received the new book club book today: True History of the Kelly Gang. As I mentioned previously, we first learned about Ned Kelly in Hong Kong (of all places) when we spent the evening listening to Dixieland jazz at “Ned Kelly’s Last Stand” while consuming great pub food. While I was at the movie, however, John stole my new book, read the first 25 or 30 pages and liked it, so right now he’s sitting outside reading some more. I will have to reclaim it before our first meeting, since we’re supposed to have read 135 pages by then, whenever that meeting is scheduled.

 

So, another day in paradise here, and a very relaxing one. Looking forward to New Guinea tomorrow.

 

P. S. The bus trip to Port Douglas was just an independent one. We asked at the tourist office and they told us where to catch the bus and that it would cost $56 AUS per person, round trip.

[gigianne]

Love reading your reports - I guarantee that you will laugh until you cry during your dinner with Ann and Cathy!

[erewhon]

Thank you for your updates and the Port Douglas shuttle information.

[Johnny B]

Wednesday, February 19, 2014 - Day 46

Alotau, Papua, New Guinea

 

I don’t know exactly what I expected New Guinea to look like, but it was nothing like my expectations. We approached very slowly through Milne Bay and docked before 8:00 this morning. The port town is surrounded by craggy mountains that could have King Kong coming down them. In appearance, it reminds me of parts of Kauai, which I love, but as soon as we walked down the gangplank, I could feel the difference. The temperature is in the high 80’s, and I think the humidity is in the 90’s.

 

The ship provided shuttles to the “shopping center,” which is a double strip of stores of different kinds. We had been warned that the vans used as shuttles had “air conditioning” as long as the windows were open! I guess we lucked out; ours had actual A/C. As we walked into one of the grocery stores, we were inspected by the armed security guard, which was common at all the stores. After looking at the possibilities, including a lot of canned meat (read Spam), top ramen and rice, we walked out the exit, where some people had bags inspected by more security officers.

 

The people here are Melanesian, and I can see similarities between them and Australian indigenous people. They are very friendly, with two out of three wishing us a “good morning” or “hello” as they walked by. There are a lot of woven goods, and I noticed that many of the people wear a woven bag with the handle around their neck and the bag in front of their chest.

 

We wandered over to the carving market and admired a great deal of beautifully carved wooden products, many looking like pieces of art. We had been looking for a mask to add to our collection, but we only saw two or three, and while they were nice, they really didn’t “speak to us.” As in Polynesia, the people display their goods and sit there, waiting for a potential customer to begin the conversation. They don’t pressure the buyer; they just let you come to them.

 

We then walked through what is called “The Informal Market,” where it was possible to buy anything from a bunch of bananas to a single cigarette (40 cents US). My favorite item at the market was a sign which said, “No Spitting of Betelnut in and around this area.” Apparently that didn’t apply to the sidewalk on our walk back to the ship, where there were telltale red splatters about every ten feet. The walk was about a mile, which ordinarily is a pretty tame walk for us, but I just couldn’t stop sweating and I had forgotten to bring a washcloth. We have friends who never leave the ship without a washcloth which has been soaked in water, wrung out, and placed in a zip lock bag. I probably would have traded my firstborn for one of those on the way back.

 

At 2:00 this afternoon, we have our HAL tour, and I’m actually looking forward to it. There were things we saw, like the Milne Bay Memorial, that I have questions about, so I’m hoping the tour will provide answers.

 

* * *

Our tour this afternoon turned out to be well worth the money spent. We had an older van with air conditioning - as long as we opened the windows. Our guide was a young lady named Cass who we thought was about 16, but it turned out she is 23 and about to graduate from university. She was very knowledgable about the area and was a great guide. We drove through the town, which has a population of 2,000, and learned that the large numbers of people sitting in the shade under trees on the beach are primarily from the outer islands, in town to do their weekly shopping and just enjoying the “big city.” We drove up the hill to the top, where the most expensive housing is found (it’s cooler there), and then to the middle of hill (middle class), before continuing to our next stop.

 

My favorite part of the tour was our visit to Cameron Secondary School, a public school with over 500 students, 325 of whom board on campus because they come from surrounding villages. Students identify with a particular tribe, and there is a large grass area where each tribal group builds a structure in the style of their village. A group from one tribe was putting on a dance program which was really fun to watch. The participants ranged from small girls to much older women, with most of the group being men in their 20’s. Clothing was pretty optional for the performance, but what was riveting was the energy and style of the dance.

 

Our group broke up into four parts, and our guide was Jeffrey, the “Head Boy” of the school. He showed us the dining hall (for boarding students), the classrooms, and the dormitories. The school was created by Mr. Cameron, who was from Australia but moved to PNG after the war. Although it is a state school, much of its support currently comes from an Englishman who lives in Alotau. According to Jeffrey, the rules are very strict and breaking some of them (like a boy being in the girls’ dormitory) results in instant expulsion. Students must take seven difficult tests at the end of eighth grade to qualify for admission, so almost all students take their education very seriously.

 

After an opportunity for face painting, we left Cameron to drive to the local markets. One was another “informal market,” and the other was a place to find produce, dried fish, betel nuts, and braided, dried tobacco ready to smoke. Our last stop was at the Milne (pronounced Mil-en) Bay Memorial, where we learned all about the battle in August of 1942 when outnumbered Australians and a few Americans fought off a Japanese force. It was important because it was the first Allied land victory over the Japanese. It’s a very moving memorial.

 

All in all, we enjoyed our stop in Alotau. Some ports are beautiful and great places to go to the beach, and some are places that we learn. This is the latter, and we’re glad we came here.

 

P. S. Had a great time at dinner with Ann, Cathy, Jeff and Henk (the Hotel Manager).

[Johnny B]

Wednesday, February 19, 2014 - Day 46

Alotau, Papua, New Guinea

 

I don’t know exactly what I expected New Guinea to look like, but it was nothing like my expectations. We approached very slowly through Milne Bay and docked before 8:00 this morning. The port town is surrounded by craggy mountains that could have King Kong coming down them. In appearance, it reminds me of parts of Kauai, which I love, but as soon as we walked down the gangplank, I could feel the difference. The temperature is in the high 80’s, and I think the humidity is in the 90’s.

 

The ship provided shuttles to the “shopping center,” which is a double strip of stores of different kinds. We had been warned that the vans used as shuttles had “air conditioning” as long as the windows were open! I guess we lucked out; ours had actual A/C. As we walked into one of the grocery stores, we were inspected by the armed security guard, which was common at all the stores. After looking at the possibilities, including a lot of canned meat (read Spam), top ramen and rice, we walked out the exit, where some people had bags inspected by more security officers.

 

The people here are Melanesian, and I can see similarities between them and Australian indigenous people. They are very friendly, with two out of three wishing us a “good morning” or “hello” as they walked by. There are a lot of woven goods, and I noticed that many of the people wear a woven bag with the handle around their neck and the bag in front of their chest.

 

We wandered over to the carving market and admired a great deal of beautifully carved wooden products, many looking like pieces of art. We had been looking for a mask to add to our collection, but we only saw two or three, and while they were nice, they really didn’t “speak to us.” As in Polynesia, the people display their goods and sit there, waiting for a potential customer to begin the conversation. They don’t pressure the buyer; they just let you come to them.

 

We then walked through what is called “The Informal Market,” where it was possible to buy anything from a bunch of bananas to a single cigarette (40 cents US). My favorite item at the market was a sign which said, “No Spitting of Betelnut in and around this area.” Apparently that didn’t apply to the sidewalk on our walk back to the ship, where there were telltale red splatters about every ten feet. The walk was about a mile, which ordinarily is a pretty tame walk for us, but I just couldn’t stop sweating and I had forgotten to bring a washcloth. We have friends who never leave the ship without a washcloth which has been soaked in water, wrung out, and placed in a zip lock bag. I probably would have traded my firstborn for one of those on the way back.

 

At 2:00 this afternoon, we have our HAL tour, and I’m actually looking forward to it. There were things we saw, like the Milne Bay Memorial, that I have questions about, so I’m hoping the tour will provide answers.

 

* * *

Our tour this afternoon turned out to be well worth the money spent. We had an older van with air conditioning - as long as we opened the windows. Our guide was a young lady named Cass who we thought was about 16, but it turned out she is 23 and about to graduate from university. She was very knowledgable about the area and was a great guide. We drove through the town, which has a population of 2,000, and learned that the large numbers of people sitting in the shade under trees on the beach are primarily from the outer islands, in town to do their weekly shopping and just enjoying the “big city.” We drove up the hill to the top, where the most expensive housing is found (it’s cooler there), and then to the middle of hill (middle class), before continuing to our next stop.

 

My favorite part of the tour was our visit to Cameron Secondary School, a public school with over 500 students, 325 of whom board on campus because they come from surrounding villages. Students identify with a particular tribe, and there is a large grass area where each tribal group builds a structure in the style of their village. A group from one tribe was putting on a dance program which was really fun to watch. The participants ranged from small girls to much older women, with most of the group being men in their 20’s. Clothing was pretty optional for the performance, but what was riveting was the energy and style of the dance.

 

Our group broke up into four parts, and our guide was Jeffrey, the “Head Boy” of the school. He showed us the dining hall (for boarding students), the classrooms, and the dormitories. The school was created by Mr. Cameron, who was from Australia but moved to PNG after the war. Although it is a state school, much of its support currently comes from an Englishman who lives in Alotau. According to Jeffrey, the rules are very strict and breaking some of them (like a boy being in the girls’ dormitory) results in instant expulsion. Students must take seven difficult tests at the end of eighth grade to qualify for admission, so almost all students take their education very seriously.

 

After an opportunity for face painting, we left Cameron to drive to the local markets. One was another “informal market,” and the other was a place to find produce, dried fish, betel nuts, and braided, dried tobacco ready to smoke. Our last stop was at the Milne (pronounced Mil-en) Bay Memorial, where we learned all about the battle in August of 1942 when outnumbered Australians and a few Americans fought off a Japanese force. It was important because it was the first Allied land victory over the Japanese. It’s a very moving memorial.

 

All in all, we enjoyed our stop in Alotau. Some ports are beautiful and great places to go to the beach, and some are places that we learn. This is the latter, and we’re glad we came here.

 

P. S. We just had an announcement from Captain Jonathan saying that the winds are currently so strong that we can’t get away from the berth. Our 5:00 sailing time will be put back to whatever time it is that we can actually depart. He did say that we could leave 12 hours late and still get to Madang, PNG on time day after tomorrow, so it doesn’t seem to be a big problem. No matter, the sailaway party has begun, so off we go to Deck 8 aft.

[Johnny B]

Wednesday, February 19, 2014 - Day 46

Alotau, Papua, New Guinea

 

I don’t know exactly what I expected New Guinea to look like, but it was nothing like my expectations. We approached very slowly through Milne Bay and docked before 8:00 this morning. The port town is surrounded by craggy mountains that could have King Kong coming down them. In appearance, it reminds me of parts of Kauai, which I love, but as soon as we walked down the gangplank, I could feel the difference. The temperature is in the high 80’s, and I think the humidity is in the 90’s.

 

The ship provided shuttles to the “shopping center,” which is a double strip of stores of different kinds. We had been warned that the vans used as shuttles had “air conditioning” as long as the windows were open! I guess we lucked out; ours had actual A/C. As we walked into one of the grocery stores, we were inspected by the armed security guard, which was common at all the stores. After looking at the possibilities, including a lot of canned meat (read Spam), top ramen and rice, we walked out the exit, where some people had bags inspected by more security officers.

 

The people here are Melanesian, and I can see similarities between them and Australian indigenous people. They are very friendly, with two out of three wishing us a “good morning” or “hello” as they walked by. There are a lot of woven goods, and I noticed that many of the people wear a woven bag with the handle around their neck and the bag in front of their chest.

 

We wandered over to the carving market and admired a great deal of beautifully carved wooden products, many looking like pieces of art. We had been looking for a mask to add to our collection, but we only saw two or three, and while they were nice, they really didn’t “speak to us.” As in Polynesia, the people display their goods and sit there, waiting for a potential customer to begin the conversation. They don’t pressure the buyer; they just let you come to them.

 

We then walked through what is called “The Informal Market,” where it was possible to buy anything from a bunch of bananas to a single cigarette (40 cents US). My favorite item at the market was a sign which said, “No Spitting of Betelnut in and around this area.” Apparently that didn’t apply to the sidewalk on our walk back to the ship, where there were telltale red splatters about every ten feet. The walk was about a mile, which ordinarily is a pretty tame walk for us, but I just couldn’t stop sweating and I had forgotten to bring a washcloth. We have friends who never leave the ship without a washcloth which has been soaked in water, wrung out, and placed in a zip lock bag. I probably would have traded my firstborn for one of those on the way back.

 

At 2:00 this afternoon, we have our HAL tour, and I’m actually looking forward to it. There were things we saw, like the Milne Bay Memorial, that I have questions about, so I’m hoping the tour will provide answers.

 

* * *

Our tour this afternoon turned out to be well worth the money spent. We had an older van with air conditioning - as long as we opened the windows. Our guide was a young lady named Cass who we thought was about 16, but it turned out she is 23 and about to graduate from university. She was very knowledgable about the area and was a great guide. We drove through the town, which has a population of 2,000, and learned that the large numbers of people sitting in the shade under trees on the beach are primarily from the outer islands, in town to do their weekly shopping and just enjoying the “big city.” We drove up the hill to the top, where the most expensive housing is found (it’s cooler there), and then to the middle of hill (middle class), before continuing to our next stop.

 

My favorite part of the tour was our visit to Cameron Secondary School, a public school with over 500 students, 325 of whom board on campus because they come from surrounding villages. Students identify with a particular tribe, and there is a large grass area where each tribal group builds a structure in the style of their village. A group from one tribe was putting on a dance program which was really fun to watch. The participants ranged from small girls to much older women, with most of the group being men in their 20’s. Clothing was pretty optional for the performance, but what was riveting was the energy and style of the dance.

 

Our group broke up into four parts, and our guide was Jeffrey, the “Head Boy” of the school. He showed us the dining hall (for boarding students), the classrooms, and the dormitories. The school was created by Mr. Cameron, who was from Australia but moved to PNG after the war. Although it is a state school, much of its support currently comes from an Englishman who lives in Alotau. According to Jeffrey, the rules are very strict and breaking some of them (like a boy being in the girls’ dormitory) results in instant expulsion. Students must take seven difficult tests at the end of eighth grade to qualify for admission, so almost all students take their education very seriously.

 

After an opportunity for face painting, we left Cameron to drive to the local markets. One was another “informal market,” and the other was a place to find produce, dried fish, betel nuts, and braided, dried tobacco ready to smoke. Our last stop was at the Milne (pronounced Mil-en) Bay Memorial, where we learned all about the battle in August of 1942 when outnumbered Australians and a few Americans fought off a Japanese force. It was important because it was the first Allied land victory over the Japanese. It’s a very moving memorial.

 

All in all, we enjoyed our stop in Alotau. Some ports are beautiful and great places to go to the beach, and some are places that we learn. This is the latter, and we’re glad we came here.

[Johnny B]

P. S. We just had an announcement from Captain Jonathan saying that the winds are currently so strong that we can’t get away from the berth. Our 5:00 sailing time will be put back to whatever time it is that we can actually depart. He did say that we could leave 12 hours late and still get to Madang, PNG on time day after tomorrow, so it doesn’t seem to be a big problem. No matter, the sailaway party has begun, so off we go to Deck 8 aft.

[sppunk]

What a great read on your visit to PNG. My favorite line you've ever written is included in this last installment:

 

Clothing was pretty optional for the performance ...

 

Classic! Don't tell some on CC about this, they'll boycott shore excursions!

[startwin]

I love your reports, they are so descriptive - thanks for taking us along.

[Johnny B]

Thursday, February 20, 2014 - Day 47

At Sea en route to Madang, Papua, New Guinea

 

After the captain announced that we couldn’t sail on time because of the high winds, it seemed to get even more people than usual up on deck for sailaway. The wind was truly awful, and the worst part of it was that it blew large amounts of dark, sandy soil everywhere. The poor Amsterdam orchestra had to keep dusting their instruments to keep them clean. Under their feet it was almost black with the sandy dirt. Our verandah was almost unusable because of the wind and the sediment coating everything out there (poor us).

 

About an hour after our scheduled 5:00 sailing time, the captain came back on the PA system and told us that the winds had died down enough to consider sailing. I truly couldn’t tell the difference, but I could hardly wait to get into the shower to get the grit out of my hair. Fortunately he was correct, although it took a little longer than usual to get away from the dock.

 

Today has been grey and rainy all day, a perfect day to read, nap, and have an excuse to do very little - isn’t that what a cruise is all about anyway? The only excitement in my day was getting a haircut, and the stylist cut it exactly the way I wanted her to. I told her I only wanted a “wet cut” without blow drying and styling, which cuts the price significantly. Actually, I knew that even if I had it styled, it wouldn’t last the whole day, thinking (incorrectly) that the sun would come out and I’d be sitting out on a windy deck with sweat dripping down my forehead. Didn’t hurt to save a little money, though.

 

This evening we’re looking forward to our friend Aart’s birthday party in the Pinnacle. In case you think I made a typo, Aart is Dutch, and that’s the spelling there. Our friend Ellen, his partner, has made all the arrangements, and we’re really looking forward to spending the evening with 12 of our good friends.

 

Tomorrow is Madang and our plan is to take a boat to “Pig Island” for sunning and a barbecue. I just hope the weather is better than it is today, so we can enjoy the beach.

 

P. S. I would have thought the "clothing optional" comment would have had people signing on for shore excursions in record numbers!

[MMDown Under]

Wednesday, February 19, 2014 - Day 46

Alotau, Papua, New Guinea

 

The temperature is in the high 80’s, and I think the humidity is in the 90’s.

 

The walk was about a mile, which ordinarily is a pretty tame walk for us, but I just couldn’t stop sweating and I had forgotten to bring a washcloth. We have friends who never leave the ship without a washcloth which has been soaked in water, wrung out, and placed in a zip lock bag. I probably would have traded my firstborn for one of those on the way back.

 

 

Great description of how high humidity just zaps your energy.

 

Remember the "wet washer in a zip lock bag" tip when you visit Melbourne for the Australian Tennis Open in January.

[Johnny B]

Friday, February 21, 2014 - Day 48

Madang, Papua New Guinea

 

What a beautiful sail-in we had this morning, up a channel past tropical flowers and trees and lovely waterfront homes. This part of Madang looks to be fairly affluent, especially with a 40-foot cruiser tied up on someone’s dock. I just wish I had a dollar for every palm tree in sight. Captain Jonathan’s report yesterday said that Madang used to be considered “The prettiest town in the Pacific,” but that she was not keeping herself up anymore.

 

We were up at 6:30 (pretty typical) because yesterday the captain told us that the sail-in would be very pretty, and boy, was he right. There were small boats floating around us and even though there were clouds overhead, the weather was just warm enough and the humidity not too bad yet. One of the small boats was apparently a “school bus,” filled with colorfully dressed kids on their way across the lagoon to attend classes. The captain also mentioned a tall memorial at the beginning of the channel which was to honor the “spotters” who, at the risk of their lives, hid here and reported on Japanese ships and airplanes. Some were Australian, some American, and many were locals, and they were some of the many who helped turn the tide of the war in the Pacific.

 

Docking was about 8:00 and, fortunately, we were on the side of the ship which took advantage of the beautiful view instead of the dock side, which is pretty basic. I shouldn’t complain about the dock, however; it’s so much better to dock than to tender into a port. When we went to the dock side of the ship, however, we found that there was a group of native dancers in wonderful feathered headdresses performing. Again, clothing was somewhat optional, but no one ran screaming from the rail. In fact, cameras were evident everywhere!

 

* * *

Well, we’re back on board, an hour and a half earlier than scheduled, primarily because people just wanted to return early. The tour we went on, titled “Relax on an Uninhabited Island” was neither relaxing nor enjoyable. We realized as they had us board the “luxury yacht” that there were an awful lot of people getting on. In hindsight, I think they overbooked, with twice as many people as there should have been. There wasn’t even space for everyone to sit. When we got to the “uninhabited island,” we wondered where the beach was. There were small patches of sand that were covered by every incoming wave. We had to take a smaller boat into the “beach,” and by the time everyone who wanted to was ashore, 2-1/2 hours of our 6-1/2 hour tour had passed. There was basically no place to sit on the beach without having water wash over you. For those who got into the water, there were waaaay too many pieces of trash, including a condom and a diaper - clearly not a great place to swim.

 

The island itself was really quite tropical and beautiful, and we were talking with friends, saying that if it was cleaned up, it could be quite a nice place. Perhaps that’s in the future.

 

Our “beach barbecue” turned out to be a barbecue on the overcrowded boat, but the food was actually pretty good, if you could fight your way through the line. Several people had to eat standing up, as some of the people at the tables wouldn’t give up their seats, even though they were done eating. When lunch was finished, the captain asked if we wanted to go back to the island, and the overwhelming answer was “No!” so we headed back to the ship. I do hate to report negative happenings, but I’ve truly never had such a disappointing tour - HAL or private.

 

Anyway, it has now begun to rain, and we’re supposed to sail at 5:00, so everyone seems to be heading back on board. It was a really interesting port, with beautiful tropical flora, but next time we’ll go to the Madang Resort for the day.

 

Right now there are some little boys in mini-outrigger canoes in the water next to our ship. They’re awfully cute, wanting to tell us their names and asking us ours. They are one of the things that makes travel so wonderful.

[localady]

Moments like you described with your outrigger friends is what makes travel so wonderful! :D Thank you for sharing.

 

I would definitely let shore excursions know of your displeasure with your tour. I would think they should address the disconnect between the excursion description and the reality. :rolleyes:

 

Continued safe seas.

[Johnny B]

Saturday, February 22 - Day 49

At Sea en route to Yap Island, Micronesia

 

It’s a cloudy, dreary day on board in more ways than one for us. We are on a 130 day cruise (including the Christmas cruise), and yesterday was day 65 for us, so today we’re on the downhill half. We have traveled 10,650 miles so far (as of this morning) and have more than that remaining, but for us, it’s half over. I guess that sounds like whining, and it probably is, but it does remind me that we don’t get to live like this forever.

 

While we were in the gym this morning, heavy rain was pelting against the front windows, so much that it was difficult to see beyond. While we ate breakfast next to the midships Lido pool, the captain walked by and I asked him if he could do anything about the weather. He told us that it’s like this throughout the entire South Pacific, so I guess we should just be pleased we’re at sea instead of fighting the rain in a port.

 

Our next port, the day after tomorrow, is Yap in Micronesia. In the 60’s, John and I applied to the Peace Corps to serve in Micronesia, but his draft board thought that leaving the country was not a good idea, so we never did go. I’ve always been curious about the area, though, so I’m rather looking forward to it. I guess it’s not too exciting a port, however, since there are no shore excursions. Actually, after our experience yesterday, that’s probably a good thing.

 

This evening is a formal knight (spelling intended) - it has a medieval theme. I think I’ll wear the dress that shows that one should not be too bored on the day of a friend’s wedding. It resulted in a trip to Nordstrom and the purchase of a dress that I never had any intention of buying - but I do love it, and it was perfect for an Indian wedding with all its sequins and shiny bits.

 

The sun has finally come out, so I think it’s time for some tanning time on the verandah. It’s lovely to think that we have yet another sea day tomorrow before our next port, even if it is one more day on the downhill half of the trip.

 

P. S. Yes, Shore Excursions did get quite a detailed letter from us, and several other people on the trip did the same.

[erewhon]

Thank you for your interesting reports.

 

What a disappointing Madang excursion.

Am pleased to know that you wrote a detailed letter to shore excursions.

[Johnny B]

Sunday, February 23 - Day 50

At Sea en route to Yap, Micronesia

 

Another cool (for the South Pacific) and rainy day is upon us. We actually had to take the cushions off the lounges on our verandah - and you think we don’t have a hard time of it! No one seems to mind bad weather on sea days, since there are lots of things to do inside - or nothing at all, if that’s your preference. I guess the die hard sunbathers are unhappy about it, but we do get a vast majority of sunny days at sea.

 

Last evening, as we were sitting in the Crow’s Nest before dinner, Gene, our cruise director, came on the PA system, which is in itself unusual. He reported that the singer who was scheduled to entertain last evening was “under the weather” and would be replaced by the comedian who was to be on tonight. I do like comedians, and this one was excellent. We laughed so hard, as did the people around us, that he commented that our side of the room seemed to be the only half that enjoyed his humor.

 

The theme for last night’s formal evening was “Medieval,” and the decorations were just wonderful. The waiters and their assistants were dressed in chain mail helmets, which we know are extremely hot and we always express our concern with their comfort, but they handle it with grace.

 

Today’s is John’s birthday, and he is wearing his favorite “birthday” shirt. He bought it in London one of the times we saw Spamalot, and it says, “I’m Not Dead Yet.” I guess it’s an appropriate thought for one having a birthday that begins with a 7. We’ll be celebrating with friends at the Pinnacle. It should be an evening of good friends, good food and good wine - what more can you ask for?

 

It will be another lazy day, with raindrops pounding against the windows and, hopefully, a good performance at Trivia (hasn’t been so good lately). In any case, any day at sea is a good one.

[ger_77]

Happy Birthday John - what a wonderful way to celebrate it on a cruise!

 

Smooth Sailing! :):):)

[Johnny B]

Monday, February 24 - Day 51

Yap Island, Micronesia

 

OK, if you’ve been to Yap, raise your hand. No, I didn’t think so. It’s such a remote place that neither the captain nor Barbara, the port lecturer who has been absolutely everywhere, has been there. I’ve heard several passengers who have cruised in the Pacific comment that they were supposed to call here more than once, but for one reason or another, did not do so. In a chat with Captain Jonathan yesterday, he said that the entrance channel was just awful; it is 90 meters wide and our ship is 30 meters wide. Thirty meters on each side is not very much clearance.

 

Regardless, call we did, and it was delightful. The people are extremely friendly and many of them have the red teeth characteristic of betel nut chewing. We docked at 8:00, and because HAL had no shore excursions, the passengers were pretty much on their own to get around the island. We had no problem with that. With our friends Cherryl and Larry, we found a taxi-van which agreed to take us on a two-hour tour, including all the places we wanted to go. We began by driving past the Living History Museum, which is a large grassy park with native buildings in the middle of it. Across the street were men carving dug-out canoes.

 

Our first stop was quite wonderful. It was a small village which housed about a hundred people, many of whom stay primarily in the main town of Colonia for their jobs. It was in the middle of the jungle, and we saw residences, the open-sided main gathering building and the men’s house, where they prepare for fishing or fighting, whichever they think is necessary.

 

The thing that Yap is most famous for is its Stone Money. These are stone circles of various sizes, from about a foot across to about eight feet across with holes in the center. It’s used not for the kind of money that you’d spend in the grocery store but more as a type of collateral for expenditures. For example, if you wish to buy a house (or business or whatever), you may use whatever stone money you have as a type of down payment. I know, I don’t quite get it either. All of the stone money used now is historical; it’s not possible to make any more. Along the main pathway of the village were several pieces of stone money. When I asked the elder who was showing us around why they just left it out, he answered, “It’s too heavy to carry and it doesn’t fit in a wallet.”

 

Our next stop was at the Stone Money Bank, which isn’t like any kind of bank you’ve ever seen. It consists of a large rectangular green building which is the office, and the pieces of stone money are simply arrayed around the property. The same philosophy about why it can’t be stolen is in effect here. Actually, some of the stone money went down in the harbor when ships sank, but it still is counted as an asset by the people who owned it and they can use it just like any other piece of stone money, even though it lies at the bottom of the harbor.

 

We drove to a lookout point, from which we could see the ocean in several directions. At the end of our two hours, our driver, Paul, left us off at the Living History Museum so that we could check out the buildings and the carving. Then it was time to head back to the ship for a quick lunch, after which we walked the two or three blocks to the Manta Ray Bay Resort, a beacon for passengers and crew alike because it had the ever popular free internet. John was able to write a bit and upload some photos, and then we headed back to the Living History Museum for a dance performance unlike any we’ve seen. There were probably 30 young dancers who walked in two by two, holding bamboo sticks about three feet long. They were pretty evenly split between men and women, and again, clothing was really quite optional. That’s been so common of late I don’t think anyone even pays much attention any more. The dances they performed were war dances, and the shouts and grunts and bamboo “fighting” would have scared me if I were their opponent. It was fascinating to watch and almost everyone stayed for the full performance, even though it began to rain.

 

Now it’s time for sailaway and a quieter evening than John’s birthday party last night. We hosted 12 of our good friends in the Pinnacle Restaurant’s back room and had a wonderful time. Several people commented today that they hadn’t laughed that much in a long time. Some of our guests didn’t know each other before the party, but afterwards they seemed like they’d known each other forever. One of the guests was our friend Jeff, and if you’d like to see photos of the party, check his blog.

 

We have three sea days coming up, and the Filipino crew is just chomping at the bit for our next visit in Manila. On our two day stop there, we’ll have almost a thousand guests on board - mostly family members, some of whom will have driven hours to see their sons/daughters/husbands/wives/friends and whatever. It is always so heart-tugging to see the reunions and so sad to experience sailaway. It will be a memorable port.

[erewhon]

Thanks for your updates.

 

Belated Birthday Greetings John.