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John and Diane are at it Again!


Johnny B
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Monday, January 20 - Day 17

At Sea - almost to Easter Island!

 

The entertainer was a Turkish pianist who gave us an “Around the World” concert, lasting a full hour and including music from about a dozen countries. The background slide show was fun to watch and to pick out places we had and had not been.

 

It’s almost midnight, so it’s time for bed - got to get those tender tickets early!

 

Was this Naki Ataman?

 

Roy

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I am glad to hear about the tender tickets....will 4 star and 5 star still receive priority tendering even with the ticket system? Hope you all can get off on Easter Island. Waiting carefully as we have signed up for the WC 2015. thanks for all the information and insights.

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Thank you so much for sharing your world cruise with us, as we would never be able to do a world cruise (unless we win the lottery).;)

You're a great writer, and I am really enjoying your posts.

Have a wonderful and safe cruise. :)

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Tuesday, January 21 - Day 18

Easter Island

 

What an amazing day! We fully realize that Easter Island is on many people’s “bucket list,” and here we are - lucky enough to visit for a second time, the first being in 2012. There were a few glitches then, and we heard that there were even more last year. Today, however, went without a hitch.

 

Several days ago, each passenger, upon returning to his/her stateroom after dinner, found a small paperback book called “A Companion to Easter Island” written by James Grant-Peterkin, a Cambridge-educated young man who has lived on the island since 2006. On the last page, he invites people to communicate with him at easterislandspirit@gmail.com and mentioned that he sometimes takes people on tours of the island. We took full advantage of his invitation and emailed to see if he was available for a tour today - and he was!

 

The tender deposited us at the port of Hanga Pico just before 9:00, where we met James as well as Graham and Lynn, the Aussies who would join us for our six-hour tour. We hopped into the van and headed out, driving through Hanga Roa, the village where most of the island’s 6,000 inhabitants live. Then we continued to Rano Kau, the volcano closest to the village, where we could look down into the huge crater with its lake at the bottom. Apparently this had been a major source of fresh water for the Polynesians who settled here. James commented that there are dozens of craters on the island, but fortunately, all of them are extinct, the last having erupted 10,000 years ago.

 

We then continued to the ceremonial village of Orongo, containing a small gathering of 52 houses built from flagstone with incredibly small and low entrances. For most people, it would require crawling on one’s belly to enter. This was the center of the birdman culture, where every spring, each clan was represented by a single young man who joined in a two-mile swimming race, won by climbing a rocky motu (small island) and being the first to hold up a bird’s egg. The winner then, of course, became that year’s “birdman,” an incredibly high honor.

 

Our next stop was my second favorite, the stone quarry called Rano Raraku, where the moai were carved and where 397 of them in different states of completion on the slopes of the extinct volcano which provided the fairly soft stone out of which they were carved. Apparently the front of each moai was carved high on the mountain and then it was lowered down the mountain by ropes and gravity, where it was stood up so that the back could be carved. If you see photos of the quarry, it looks like there are only heads, but the head is only a third of the whole moai, and the rest of it is buried in the sand and grass. Below the quarry there are several broken moai, which apparently were victims of their move to a permanent setting. Once broken, they lost their “mana” and were simply left where they fell. As we walked down the path which would take us to our car, we stopped to allow a large herd of horses to cross our path. There are hundreds of them on the island, and they seem to have the right of way.

 

From the quarry we drove to Tongariki, with 15 moai on a huge platform in front of the sea but facing inward (as do virtually all moai). James dropped us off on one side so we could walk along the several hundred foot platform and take at least fifty photos as we walked. There was a little stand selling mini-carved moai, but even better, they were selling mini-pineapples which had been “skinned” and were served upside down so we could hold onto the stem and eat them like ice cream cones. Mine was incredibly sweet and delicious.

 

The drive to our next stop was fairly long, but it enabled us to see the stark beauty of the land and the striking contrast of colors in the water. James commented that the lack of pollution in the water allows sharp distinctions in color, which ranged from pale green and turquoise to blue and even black. The crash of the waves against the rocks just added to the show. It was beautiful.

 

Then we headed to my very favorite stop, Anakena Beach, where a platform of seven moai and a single one overlook a beautiful white-sand beach with warm, turquoise water. Above the moai is a large grassy area with palm trees and three little shacks that serve delicious food. We stopped at James’ favorite stand and had empanadas for lunch. In California, empanadas are little bitty one-bite Mexican hors d’oeuvres, but here they are huge! Each one was filled with tuna or ham or chicken and cheese and was a full moon. Since it was 2:30 by then, we were plenty hungry and lunch disappeared pretty quickly.

 

Our last drive was across the island and into town so we could stop by the post office for a stamp for our granddaughter’s postcard - of Anakena Beach, of course. It had been a wonderful tour for the entire day, and James was a wonderful guide. He knows the island backward and forward and was greeting friends everywhere. We feel like we really lucked out, especially since we booked him only about three days before arrival, and the fact that there were only four of us made the tour even better.

 

If you get a chance to visit Easter Island, grab it! It’s a place unlike anywhere else in the world and we are two lucky ducks to be able to enjoy it.

 

P. S. Check Jeff’s photos - they’ll be spectacular!

Also, yes it was Hamnet and Judith, and you've got the correct name for the pianist.

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Wednesday, January 22 - Day 19

At Sea en route to Pitcairn Island

 

“Been there, done that” is an expression that I’d rather not ever hear again. Yesterday at Easter Island, I could have strangled anyone who said it. OK, today’s going to be a bit of a rant, so hang in there.

 

Shortly after we married, I was hired as a secretary at a travel agency while we both finished college. I guess that’s where the “bug” hit, since we could do things like sail from San Francisco to Honolulu on the Lurline for $50.00 each, stay at a hotel for free, go on free tours, but only afford two meals a day because we were, basically, starving students. Go figure.

 

In the years after that, we began venturing out even farther, primarily to Europe, where we’ve traveled many, many times, the most recent being last fall. However, no matter how many times we’ve been to a place, we always find something new and exciting to see or do. We’d probably been to Paris 20 times before we got around to visiting the catacombs (which I highly recommend) and there are still way too many things we’ve yet to see and do there. I think that applies to anywhere we’ve traveled.

 

Now to hear people who’ve been to a place once (or twice or three times) say that they don’t have to bother going ashore because “been there . . . “ is something that raises our hackles. We’d been to Easter Island in 2012 and seen the major moai sites, but this time we saw even more, including returning to the same sites but seeing them differently. Since James was our guide, we learned far more about the people, the history and the culture of the island as well as the problems they face. If we were on a cruise which stopped here again, we would certainly go ashore and try to learn more, perhaps by spending time in the town, which we haven’t done before, or spending time at Anakena Beach, where we could meet and talk with some of the local folks. There is always something new to do.

 

This is not to say that most passengers had this attitude; on the contrary, the vast majority were thrilled to be on Easter Island - either for the first time or yet again. It seemed to be high on most people’s “bucket list” and we heard over and over how thrilled people were to be there, especially since the sea and the weather were so cooperative The ones that bug us are a small minority, but a very annoying one. Even the crew members who are able to get off take the time to walk to the town (not too far) to see the moai standing there.

 

Many of the people with the above attitude are also the ones who have ports they really dislike because of one of the following reasons: it’s dirty, the food isn’t what I’m used to,

they dress “funny,” they practice a strange religion, there’s no air conditioning, etc., etc., etc. There are so many things to be learned and to be seen in any port or travel destination and anyone who doesn’t understand that is missing out on a great deal. We really like to try the local food, and on four world cruises, we have yet to have any negative results from our culinary adventures. I think that the best way to see a place, either on a sea or land trip is to read about it in advance and then make a list of the places you want to see and/or the things you want to do. Sometimes we don’t take our own pre-planning advice on this bit, but then we usually hire a taxi and ask the driver to take us to interesting places.

 

The day after tomorrow we call at Pitcairn Island, home of the Bounty descendants, but instead of us going ashore, they will paddle out, climb rope ladders to board the ship, and then set up a market selling their famous honey, jewelry, tee-shirts and so on. We’d love to go ashore there, but apparently the only way to do so is to be a passenger on one of the small freighters that call there regularly with supplies. Even though Pitcairn is probably the most exotic of our destinations, there are still people on board who sound fairly bored with it. I guess they’ve already got the tee-shirt, so who needs to stop there again, right?

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I wonder why the people you describe even bother to go on a World Cruise or travel anywhere for that matter.

 

Thx for the update. I was on a cruise in 2008 and we were in Lima for 3 days. It was amazing. Four if my table mates didn't leave the ship because they heard it was dangerous. The complained how bored they were. Why go then?

 

Why do they go on these long cruises ?

It fills the day in for them, plus it gives them someone to moan to. If they sat around moaning at home , no one would listen to them:D

 

 

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Wednesday, January 22 - Day 19

At Sea en route to Pitcairn Island

 

“Been there, done that” is an expression that I’d rather not ever hear again. Yesterday at Easter Island, I could have strangled anyone who said it. OK, today’s going to be a bit of a rant, so hang in there.

 

Shortly after we married, I was hired as a secretary at a travel agency while we both finished college. I guess that’s where the “bug” hit, since we could do things like sail from San Francisco to Honolulu on the Lurline for $50.00 each, stay at a hotel for free, go on free tours, but only afford two meals a day because we were, basically, starving students. Go figure.

 

In the years after that, we began venturing out even farther, primarily to Europe, where we’ve traveled many, many times, the most recent being last fall. However, no matter how many times we’ve been to a place, we always find something new and exciting to see or do. We’d probably been to Paris 20 times before we got around to visiting the catacombs (which I highly recommend) and there are still way too many things we’ve yet to see and do there. I think that applies to anywhere we’ve traveled.

 

Now to hear people who’ve been to a place once (or twice or three times) say that they don’t have to bother going ashore because “been there . . . “ is something that raises our hackles. We’d been to Easter Island in 2012 and seen the major moai sites, but this time we saw even more, including returning to the same sites but seeing them differently. Since James was our guide, we learned far more about the people, the history and the culture of the island as well as the problems they face. If we were on a cruise which stopped here again, we would certainly go ashore and try to learn more, perhaps by spending time in the town, which we haven’t done before, or spending time at Anakena Beach, where we could meet and talk with some of the local folks. There is always something new to do.

 

This is not to say that most passengers had this attitude; on the contrary, the vast majority were thrilled to be on Easter Island - either for the first time or yet again. It seemed to be high on most people’s “bucket list” and we heard over and over how thrilled people were to be there, especially since the sea and the weather were so cooperative The ones that bug us are a small minority, but a very annoying one. Even the crew members who are able to get off take the time to walk to the town (not too far) to see the moai standing there.

 

Many of the people with the above attitude are also the ones who have ports they really dislike because of one of the following reasons: it’s dirty, the food isn’t what I’m used to,

they dress “funny,” they practice a strange religion, there’s no air conditioning, etc., etc., etc. There are so many things to be learned and to be seen in any port or travel destination and anyone who doesn’t understand that is missing out on a great deal. We really like to try the local food, and on four world cruises, we have yet to have any negative results from our culinary adventures. I think that the best way to see a place, either on a sea or land trip is to read about it in advance and then make a list of the places you want to see and/or the things you want to do. Sometimes we don’t take our own pre-planning advice on this bit, but then we usually hire a taxi and ask the driver to take us to interesting places.

 

The day after tomorrow we call at Pitcairn Island, home of the Bounty descendants, but instead of us going ashore, they will paddle out, climb rope ladders to board the ship, and then set up a market selling their famous honey, jewelry, tee-shirts and so on. We’d love to go ashore there, but apparently the only way to do so is to be a passenger on one of the small freighters that call there regularly with supplies. Even though Pitcairn is probably the most exotic of our destinations, there are still people on board who sound fairly bored with it. I guess they’ve already got the tee-shirt, so who needs to stop there again, right?

 

Great post!

 

I agree, most folks seem not to appreciate the moment &, how fortunate they are to be where they are.

 

Thanks so much for sharing.

 

Be well.

Bob

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Wednesday, January 22 - Day 19

At Sea en route to Pitcairn Island

 

“Been there, done that” is an expression that I’d rather not ever hear again. Yesterday at Easter Island, I could have strangled anyone who said it. OK, today’s going to be a bit of a rant, so hang in there.

 

Shortly after we married, I was hired as a secretary at a travel agency while we both finished college. I guess that’s where the “bug” hit, since we could do things like sail from San Francisco to Honolulu on the Lurline for $50.00 each, stay at a hotel for free, go on free tours, but only afford two meals a day because we were, basically, starving students. Go figure.

 

In the years after that, we began venturing out even farther, primarily to Europe, where we’ve traveled many, many times, the most recent being last fall. However, no matter how many times we’ve been to a place, we always find something new and exciting to see or do. We’d probably been to Paris 20 times before we got around to visiting the catacombs (which I highly recommend) and there are still way too many things we’ve yet to see and do there. I think that applies to anywhere we’ve traveled.

 

Now to hear people who’ve been to a place once (or twice or three times) say that they don’t have to bother going ashore because “been there . . . “ is something that raises our hackles. We’d been to Easter Island in 2012 and seen the major moai sites, but this time we saw even more, including returning to the same sites but seeing them differently. Since James was our guide, we learned far more about the people, the history and the culture of the island as well as the problems they face. If we were on a cruise which stopped here again, we would certainly go ashore and try to learn more, perhaps by spending time in the town, which we haven’t done before, or spending time at Anakena Beach, where we could meet and talk with some of the local folks. There is always something new to do.

 

This is not to say that most passengers had this attitude; on the contrary, the vast majority were thrilled to be on Easter Island - either for the first time or yet again. It seemed to be high on most people’s “bucket list” and we heard over and over how thrilled people were to be there, especially since the sea and the weather were so cooperative The ones that bug us are a small minority, but a very annoying one. Even the crew members who are able to get off take the time to walk to the town (not too far) to see the moai standing there.

 

Many of the people with the above attitude are also the ones who have ports they really dislike because of one of the following reasons: it’s dirty, the food isn’t what I’m used to,

they dress “funny,” they practice a strange religion, there’s no air conditioning, etc., etc., etc. There are so many things to be learned and to be seen in any port or travel destination and anyone who doesn’t understand that is missing out on a great deal. We really like to try the local food, and on four world cruises, we have yet to have any negative results from our culinary adventures. I think that the best way to see a place, either on a sea or land trip is to read about it in advance and then make a list of the places you want to see and/or the things you want to do. Sometimes we don’t take our own pre-planning advice on this bit, but then we usually hire a taxi and ask the driver to take us to interesting places.

 

The day after tomorrow we call at Pitcairn Island, home of the Bounty descendants, but instead of us going ashore, they will paddle out, climb rope ladders to board the ship, and then set up a market selling their famous honey, jewelry, tee-shirts and so on. We’d love to go ashore there, but apparently the only way to do so is to be a passenger on one of the small freighters that call there regularly with supplies. Even though Pitcairn is probably the most exotic of our destinations, there are still people on board who sound fairly bored with it. I guess they’ve already got the tee-shirt, so who needs to stop there again, right?

Great post!

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People are different and have different likes and dislikes, different reasons for doing what they do.

 

Johnny and Diane: so glad you are having such a super time. Your posts are so positive, so interesting. Keep having a wonderful cruise! Thanks very much for this first class thread!

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they dress “funny,” they practice a strange religion, there’s no air conditioning, etc., etc., etc.]

 

So I guess the Mark Twain quote doesn't hold true in all cases: Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one's lifetime.”

 

I am enjoying your blog (and the others) immensely since I doubt I would ever go on a WC myself unless I won the lottery. Thanks so much.

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Thursday, January 23 - Day 20

At Sea en route to Pitcairn Island

 

Day 20! For us, day 37 (of 130) - where has the time gone? But it’s going in such a lovely, lovely way. Thank you so much for all the lovely comments. It really does make writing this blog a treat for me - besides, it’s my “journal” for the trip.

 

I’ve mentioned in the past that many people who think about cruises think primarily about food, and I guess they could have a point. There is a huge amount of food consumed (and wasted) on this ship and some people take more advantage than others.

 

I thought I’d go over the many, many possibilities for dietary consumption, and the irony is that I’m doing it in the library, in clear view of the Explorations Cafe, where in addition to coffees and sodas for a fee, there is also food all day long, from 7:00 AM to 10:00 PM. In the morning the choices are typical breakfast fare, including muffins and generously frosted cinnamon rolls. At about 11:00 AM, they bring out the cutest little egg salad, tuna, and smoked salmon sandwiches. For these, of course, there is no charge.

 

As far as numbers go, I’m sure that the Lido has the highest traffic throughout the day. That’s where we eat breakfast and lunch, and the choices are many and varied. For breakfast I usually have blueberries mixed with cereal and yogurt, but my very favorite breakfast treat is fresh-squeezed orange juice. Such an indulgence. There’s everything else, from smoked salmon (and accompaniments) to waffles and pancakes and french toast to eggs, bacon, fried potatoes and toast. There’s an entire section with fresh fruit and the same kind of breakfast breads that are served here in the Explorations Cafe.

 

For lunch, the choices are even more varied. On one side of the Lido there are carved meats along with vegetable and potato accompaniments, a pasta area, a sandwich bar, a cheese and cold cuts area, and various spreads, such as tapenade. On the other side, instead of the sandwich and cheese/cold cuts area, there are an Asian food section and a sushi bar. At the end, there’s about 40 feet of desserts, including an ice cream station (which always has a long line).

 

On the other end of the Lido is The Terrace Grill, now known as “Dive In,” where all kinds of burgers and hot dogs are served. Don’t like beef? They also have chicken burgers and a portobello mushroom burger. The fries are to die for.

 

We eat dinner almost every evening in La Fontaine, the main dining room. We have table mates who eat every meal there, but we’re a bit more casual than that. The food is excellent and the choices are extensive. If you don’t like what’s offered on the daily menu, there is the “always available” section which includes such things as salmon, a small steak, and a grilled chicken breast. Sometimes I order the jumbo shrimp cocktail for a starter from that menu, and if I’m really not hungry, I have the option of just having a baked potato as a main course. If you can’t find anything to eat there, you really ARE a picky eater. Of course, if you go to the Crow’s Nest before dinner (as we often do), there are hot hors d’oeuvres served.

 

The Lido serves the same evening menu, but somehow the food always looks better in the dining room. If you get hungry late at night, there is no “midnight buffet,” but there is a “Late Night Snack” available from 10:30 until 11:30 PM. We haven’t tried it, since we’re not exactly hungry enough after finishing dinner at 10:00 to consider a “snack” at 10:30.

 

Got a special occasion or just tired of the dining room? Then you have two extra-charge choices: The Pinnacle Grill ($29) or Canaletto ($10 - where we’re going tonight). The Pinnacle is primarily a steakhouse, but everything is done so beautifully that, even though I’m not much of a beef eater, I do love going there. That’s also where the special dinners are held, including a wonderful LeCirque dinner that we’re signed up for next Tuesday. We’ll be taking our friend Barbie, since her birthday is the week after, and Jeff is coming with us to round out the group.

 

Canaletto will be an interesting destination for us this evening. We’re going with our friends Bill (with whom John plays deck tennis) and his wife Marty. The four of us get along very well, but we thought it would be nice to have an entire dinner to just chat. We’ve been to Canaletto before on a previous cruise, but found it to be quite underwhelming. Apparently having an Italian restaurant with an Indonesian chef didn’t quite work. Now, however, they have an Italian chef and they’ve changed the concept to a kind of tapas approach, so that small plates are served to be shared with the table. We’re keeping an open mind and hope to enjoy every bite.

 

OK, what if nothing appeals to you or you just don’t feel like going anywhere? Then there’s room service, called “In Room Dining.” There are appetizers, soups, salads, mains and desserts available from noon until 10:00 PM, but there is also a 24-hour menu, including such things as smoked salmon, a club sandwich, an omelet and a plate of chocolate chip cookies. In addition, every night when we return to our room after dinner or the show, there is an in-room breakfast menu on our bed. I think we ordered from it once in 2008, but now we just tell our room stewards not to bother.

 

Do you think that’s enough food and enough choice? I think I just gained 10 pounds from writing about it!

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Friday, January 24 - Day 21

Pitcairn Island

 

Mutiny on the Bounty, Fletcher Christian, Captain Bligh - it was all here today, well descendants of the second and no one of the third. It was an amazing day, primarily because of the mystery of the whole thing.

 

Of course the movies have made Fletcher Christian, first officer of The Bounty, the hero of the tale, but the English and all my reading since then have cast Captain Bligh in that role and Fletcher Christian as the spoiled rich kid who wanted everything his way or the highway. Well, Pitcairn Island is not exactly the highway and doesn’t even have roads, but it’s a fascinating place - even though we didn’t get to go ashore.

 

We set the clock for 6:30, and shortly after that, from the floor to ceiling windows in the gym, we could see the island dead ahead of us. As we came closer, the island got a little bigger, but heck, it’s only two square miles, so not much land there. It is incredibly rocky and mountainous and only small supply boats can call there. Of course that doesn’t stop the islanders from coming on board our ship, and that they did.

 

There are only about 50 people living on Pitcairn, and 35 of them came on board today. Their long boat came across the channel to our anchoring in Bounty Bay, and then they climbed a rope ladder up the side of the ship and into the cargo hold. The boat was absolutely jam packed with people and bananas. The first planned event was a really interesting talk by Jacqui Christian, seventh generation descendant of Fletcher, during which she showed slides of the island and its people and spoke of the island’s history and culture. Most of the people on the island are direct descendants of the mutineers and their Tahitian “wives,” and the names posted on sales tables around the Lido pool showed that. Of the 17 or so sales stands, there were only about five surnames posted.

 

At 9:00 the sales began, and boy, were they popular. They sold tee-shirts, hats, wood carvings, jewelry, the honey that they are famous for, some children’s books, and post cards with beautiful Pitcairn Island stamps already affixed. We bought one of those and wrote it to our granddaughter, the only problem being that the next ship to call will be in March, so she probably won’t see it until April or May. I also bought a tee-shirt (you know, you haven’t really been to a place until you have the tee-shirt) and John bought a hat. It was interesting to hear the islanders talk among themselves in a pidgen which combines Tahitian and English, but when they spoke to passengers, their English had a

New Zealand accent (where most are educated).

 

The biggest problem on Pitcairn now is declining population. From a maximum of about 200, they are now down to only about 50, and only two babies have been born in the last ten years. There are eight children on the island, seven in school and one pre-schooler, but at 16 they are sent off to New Zealand to continue their education, and most do not return. Jacqui mentioned that her three sisters lived in New Zealand with husbands and families and that she had lived there and in Australia for 20 years before return a few years ago.

 

During the islanders’ two-hour stay on board, the ship circumnavigated the island, first in one direction and then in the other. The captain had announced that he wanted those with both port and starboard balconies to have the advantage of a wonderful view of the island. It reminded us of the rugged Napili Coast of Kauai in Hawaii - much easier to circumnavigate than to cover on foot.

 

The sales continued until 11:00, and everyone, islander and passenger alike, seemed to have a great time. Then it was time for them to pack up the unsold merchandise and re-board the long boat. Before they did that, however, the Amsterdam staff filled the order made earlier and on-loaded boxes and bags and crates of everything from ice cream to Coca Cola to flour and sugar to huge, heavy boxes of canned goods. I guess we got the bananas and they got everything they had ordered in advance. There was also about a five-foot tuna in the bow of the boat, which apparently one of the long boat’s crew caught while we were “shopping.” It was hoisted onto our ship, the islanders re-boarded, and off they went, waving and shouting goodbye. It had been a wonderful visit, welcomed by both groups.

 

P. S. Regarding Canaletto, there will be a "restaurant review" tomorrow.

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Saturday, January 25 - Day 22

At Sea en route to Papeete, Tahiti

 

On the 2012 cruise, we decided to try Caneletto, the section of The Lido that becomes an Italian restaurant each evening. At that time, I had heavy lasagne that sat on my stomach like a stone, and John had, as I recall, some tough veal scallopini. It really didn’t recommend itself to us, and we didn’t return. At that time it was free, and even so, it was nearly empty most evenings - a reflection on the food, I think.

 

On this cruise, several things have changed. The Indonesian chef has been replaced by a real, honest-to-gosh Italian (or so I’ve been told), there is now a $10.00 per person surcharge (half that for four-star mariners and above) and the menu has a whole new focus. The emphasis now, as it says on the posters outside the restaurant, is “spartire,” or sharing food (although Tom, the dining room manager says it just tells you that you’ll get a spare tire if you eat there too much). I really like the idea of small plates and food sharing, so it appealed to us.

 

So . . . with our friends Bill and Marty, we ventured out to Canaletto the evening before last. First we were handed the menus, which have food divided into three sections: small plates, pasta, and large plates. Our server told us that everything would be served in the middle of the table so that we could all share. That got my attention. She also told us that it was suggested that four people order four small plates (as starters), two pastas and two large plates. Since we are very obedient children, that’s exactly what we did.

 

For small plates, we each chose one and ended up with salumi (Italian cold cuts), beet and gorgonzola salad, eggplant caponata, and braised clams served with spicy chorizo. They were all excellent, but next time I want to try the veal polpettina, too.

 

For the pastas, we ordered pappardelle with shrimp, artichokes and lemon as well as gnocchi with braised short ribs. The pappardelle was a little heavy with cream sauce, but anything with artichokes and lemon is OK with me. I’d never had gnocchi in a meat sauce, but it was pretty good, too.

 

Now began the problem. Having eaten starters and pasta, I was ready to be finished, but we had already ordered our large plates: chicken cacciatore and veal piccata. We did our best, and they were quite delicious, but it just got to be too much. If we’d been at home, there most certainly would have been four “doggie bags.” We’ve already decided that next time we’re ordering less food.

 

Having said that, however, our server told us that the desserts were delicious, so . . . we ordered up. Three of us had the chocolate gelato, served in an adorable little shot glass, but I had limoncello creme, a delectable lemon dessert with a frozen yogurt consistency and with limoncello poured over the top. Then at the bottom there was a kind of clear limoncello jello that was just about tart enough to make me happy. The even better news about my dessert was that I was served two little shot glasses full and I finished every bite. Had I not been surrounded by others, I might have licked them clean - it was that good.

 

Bottom line: the restaurant has improved markedly and the four of us have already decided to return sometime in February. Can’t wait for more of that limoncello!

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well, My tummy seems full after reading about this meal! Maybe we will try it on a longer than 10 days cruise. We had given up on the old Canaletto. We will be on a Vista ship next so I need to get my dose of the Tamarind which I really look forward to.

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