Live--Silversea Explorer August 8-22, 2017--Svalbard, Greenland, and Iceland.

[RachelG]

Ice cruising

 

 

 

 

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[RachelG]

Proper exercise room

 

 

Bathroom with speed shower

 

 

 

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[TLCOhio]

OOOO! Loving your posts and photos! Vigeland Park is one of my favorite places...so glad you enjoyed it too. You have a great itinerary.

 

Appreciate your great reports, photos, details, etc., about your adventure. Yes, loved seeing your pictures from Vigeland Park. That was one of our top, best favorites from visiting in Oslo. Keep up the great sharing and helpful travel insights.

 

THANKS! Enjoy! Terry in Ohio

 

For details and visuals, etc., from our July 1-16, 2010, Norway Coast/Fjords/Arctic Circle cruise experience from Copenhagen on the Silver Cloud, check out this posting. This posting is now at 218,725 views.

www.boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=1227923

[Silver Spectre]

Great photos Rachel, excellent trip report.

 

 

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[RachelG]

August 11, 2017--Zeipelodden, Torellneset, and Alkefjellet

 

Another smooth night's sailing brought to wake up anchored in the wide harbor of Zeipelodden with beige and grey sandy looking mountains on three sides topped with snow. At one end was a wide glacier coming down to the water. The sun was out with just light clouds, and the whole area on land looked very arid, like a polar desert. No appreciable plant life was present, at least that I could see from the ship.

 

The temperature was pretty cold, 32F, with a 30 MPH wind. Again all layers were needed for warmth for this morning's landing. We were in the second group, which meant sleeping in a little later for George while I had my tea in the observation lounge.

 

Once our turn came to go ashore, we went by zodiac to a landing site on a broad raised beach covered with pebbles, bigger rocks, pieces of fossilized coral, and mollusk shells. The beach was a lot wider and longer than it appeared from the ship, probably a half mile deep before the mountains started.

 

The bear guards were already in place watching for any sight of polar bears in the distance which would have meant we would have to immediately retreat to the zodiacs. We walked along in small groups, examining various rocks, the discarded antlers of a reindeer, the skeleton of a young bear. The rocks were interspersed occasionally by lichen, small tufts of grass, and a few tiny flowers. After about an hour and a half exploring, we were pretty chilly due to the wind and ready to go back to the warmth of the ship.

 

During lunch, the ship moved to Torellneset, our second stop of the day, and a favorite walrus hang out. It had gotten pretty foggy while we were traveling, and I was worried we might not be able to make the landing, as if it is too foggy for the bear guards to see the bears, we can't go ashore. But it was deemed safe, so the first group took off.

 

On one side was a very long wide glacier, the largest we had seen thus far. As we approached the beach on the other side, the glacier was calving quite actively. We pulled up on a fairly steep beach made up of large pebbles and rocks, the kind where when you step, you sink in about a foot. So just walking was a good calories burner.

 

We hiked down to a large flat area of the beach where about 50-60 male walrus were hauled out, lazing on the rocks. There were probably 10-20 more in the water, and a couple decided they would go from the water to the group. It was indeed a haul out as they would go about 5 feet then have to stop to rest. Being such big fatties, they are very unwieldy on land, but can move fast in the water. They have to eat about 70 kg (155 lb) of mollusk every couple of days. They suck out the inside and spit out the shells.

 

We watched them jostle and nudge for about a hour, each wanting the most comfortable position even if it meant laying on someone else. Then we headed back to the ship for dinner.

 

Just as we were finishing dinner, the announcement came that we were at the bird cliffs of Alkefjellet. I have been to a lot of bird cliffs, and these were pretty impressive with birds by the hundred flying overhead, diving and swooping all over, but it was really cold. So I just looked for a little while, then retreated to bed.

 

 

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[RachelG]

Bleak landscape

 

Flowers struggle to survive here

 

All layers on to ward off the cold and wind

 

 

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[liptastic]

Great photos and posts. Looks like a wonderful adventure. Thanks for taking us along. Jean.

[RachelG]

August 12, 2017--Texas Bar (not) and Monacobreen, Svalbard

 

We were in the 2nd landing group for today's activities, so I planned to sleep in a little bit, figuring the announcement for the first group would give me plenty of time for my speed shower and to get ready for the day.

 

Smooth sailing all night, and I awoke to the announcement that due to very thick fog a landing to hike to Texas Bar (a overnight shelter, not a real Bar) would not happen. I would just not be safe as the bear guards could not see well enough. So the ship would reposition and try to find an area where we could safely land.

 

The fog was indeed very dense. I got up to get some steps on the 6th deck hamster track. By the time I got out there, the fog was lifting slightly, and we had arrived at some flat reddish sandstone islands covered with lichen, moss, and some very low to the ground lavender and yellow flowers.

 

The announcement was made that it would be safe to zodiac cruise around these to get closer and see what we could find. Those of us who wished to go bundled up warmly, since we would be sitting, and took off.

 

At the first island, we spotted a grey and white Arctic fox. In winter, he will have all turned white. Some terns were dive bombing him as he apparently was too close to their nest. They were getting really close to him, so he started jumping up and trying to catch one, sort of like your pet dog would jump up to catch a ball thrown high. It was very entertaining, so we watched him for quite a while.

 

We moved on to some more of the little islands, seeing eider ducks, long tailed ducks, some loons, and a bunch of other birds I can't remember. After about 1 1/2 hour, we were really cold, and it was time for lunch. The fog had moved back in, and we couldn't see the ship at all. But our skillful zodiac driver returned us safely.

 

After lunch, we headed to Monacobreen, a huge glacier that George and I had seen on our previous trip. It was still pretty foggy, but when we arrived at the glacier, the fog was clearing a little, and bright sun was peaking through. It was really quite striking, the white fog with the sun reflecting off the ice of the glacier, large and small icebergs floating all around us.

 

The first group boarded zodiacs for their turn while I finished my steps on the hamster track with a beautiful backdrop. When it was our turn, we set off for a wonderful cruise out to the glacier.

 

First we spotted a seal lounging on the ice. He was really relaxed and left us approach up close. Then we cruised to the glacier itself, which was glistening white with aqua blue underneath where the really dense ice resides. Every so often we would hear a cracking sound followed by seeing some ice calf off of the glacier surface and crash into the water below. Lots of mini ice bergs were in the water, proof of previous calvings.

 

After two hours, our time was up, and we headed back to the ship for a sumptuous dinner and warm room. The food on this voyage has been the best so far of any Silversea Explorer cruise we have been on. No complaints at all. Fresh berries every day, salads, and well prepared meat and fish. Absolutely delicious.

[RachelG]

Our Arctic fox

 

The solitary seal

 

Explorer at Monacobreen

 

 

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[RachelG]

Monacobreen

 

 

 

 

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[RachelG]

August 13, 2017--Ny London and Fjortendejulibukta, Svalbard

 

We were up for an earlier start this am as our group would be first to go out on the zodiacs. During the night we had sailed to the west coast of Svalbard to anchor in the channel between Ny Alesund, a Norwegian research station that is inhabited year round, and Ny London, a deserted mining camp that went bust in the 1910s.

 

The wind was really whipping up, so even though the temperature was in the low 40s, it felt much colder. We landed on a pebbly beach. On the grey hills in front of us were the ruins of an old marble mining camp, lots of old rusty mining equipment, and 2 well kept cabins where people can still come to camp during the summer.

 

Our guides walked us around explaining the history. Basically an Englishman visited here in 1910. He was quite an entrepreneur or conman depending on your perspective. He found some pieces of marble on the ground which he took back to England. He convinced a bunch of bankers and businessmen to invest in a marble mining operation. They spent a fortune building the infrastructure and setting up the mining operation. The first batch of marble was mined and shipped back to London. When it arrived, they went to unload it, and it had turned to just crumbles because the water which had frozen inside it in Svalbard had melted.

 

After 2 hours of exploring, we were cold and ready to return to the ship. After a good lunch and short nap, it was time for the afternoon's adventure. During lunch, the ship had moved to the 14th of July glacier, not as large as Monacobreen, but still very impressive. The wind had fortunately died down.

 

Passengers had a choice between a strenuous hike along a sandy then rocky beach then up and up across a moraine and onto the surface of the glacier or a zodiac ride. Bet you can guess which we chose.

 

The hike was not the longest I have done since my fractured shoulder but was by far the most strenuous. It was a little scary at points because the trail was very narrow and steep. But walking out on the ice of the glacier was amazing, and we had great views. Down below, the groups on zodiac tours looked like a platoon of Royal Marines getting ready for a shore landing.

 

George was my hero holding my hand on the steep parts as I am very much more cautious than I was before the accident. Lots of people had hiking poles, but I really don't think they were very helpful. It wasn't that type of trail, too many rocks and then solid ice on the glacier.

 

We returned to the ship. Wonderful news, we may soon have Internet! And we get an extra hour tonight as time sets back.

 

The seas really started rocking and rolling during dinner. Sea sick bags out in the hall.

 

 

 

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[RachelG]

Ny London

 

14th of July glacier

 

Our hike out onto the glacier

 

 

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[57 varieties]

Thank you RachelG, I am really enjoying the blog and pictures.

 

 

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[Emtbsam]

Rachel - Thank you so much for the wonderful blog and pictures.

[Mudhen]

This is just wonderful! So very "Nat Geo", but better! Loving those walrus'! Foxy was pretty cute too! Thank you for taking the time to post. You write so beautifully!

[Fletcher]

Wonderful stuff, Rachel. This sort of thing is very rare and I know, I've done it myself, on various cruises. Descriptive writing, an eye for detail, seems to be a rarity in the era of texting and snapchat etc. And based on my own experience of expedition ships, most of the passengers aboard don't even know what the internet is. Thanks again Rachel.

 

I'm about to do something similar on the Regent Seven Seas forum and hope to wake that lot up a bit. I'll be crossing paths with the Silver Explorer at night, somewhere off Greenland I think.

[RachelG]

August 14, 2017--sailing the Greenland Sea

 

As we entered the North Atlantic, the winds really picked up, and the sea was very rough all night with big whitecaps. There was so much movement that it was hard to sleep. I finally resorted to lying flat on my back, and it worked. By morning, it was still very windy, but the waves had settled down a little bit. Monochromatic color scheme outside--grey ocean, grey sky, thick grey clouds. There is an occasional sea bird but not much else.

 

We both worked on the computer as the Internet has returned. Had to spring for the extra cost fast internet, as the things from my office are too much for the complementary level to handle. They just won't load.

 

We spent the afternoon working out, doing laundry and just goofing off. There are plenty of lectures and a bridge tour on offer. I walked outside for an hour. While it was cold and windy, I have definitely seen worse.

 

We had wine and cheese in our room in the afternoon then went to the Venetian society party where those with lots of days on Silversea are recognized. George and I are getting up there but not to 100 yet. Maybe next cruise.

 

 

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[CruisinPashmina]

This is the most wonderful report/journal I have ever read on CC. The detail is fantastic...did you mention feeling cold??

 

The photographs drive home the isolation and weather challenges. This is a trip we took so many years ago on The Cloud...no where near as intense as it was a part of an "Arctic Cruise" which was essentially a sail up the Norwegian coast. We did go to Longbeyan. I still think of residents walking around with rifles slung on their backs. Our guide gave us all a lecture on the dangers of the polar bears. It went something like this;

 

If you encounter a bear, stand still. Yell. Loud. Throw your hat at the bear. Then throw your gloves, then throw your glasses, and then, when the bear charged you, and only then, shoot.

 

My husband, a former small arms instructor in the US Army, thought that was the funniest thing he'd ever heard. His interpretation was he'd have to die screaming, freezing, with his fingers frozen on the trigger.

 

Again, many thanks...such a wonderful journal. Best ever!

[WesW]

Thanks Rachel for sharing your exceptional Polar voyage with us in beautiful snaps and wonderfully descriptive prose. If u have time please share a pix of George and you (got to see that cowboy hat :)).

 

 

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[MLeh]

More accolades for Rachel's writing. Thank you for taking the time to write this and sharing it.

 

 

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[RachelG]

Thanks for all the kind words! I love reading everyone's blogs and have picked up some useful tips over the years from them, so hopefully mine will be helpful to someone or at least allow them to virtually travel.

 

So by request, a picture of George and me

 

And George, sorry, but without the cowboy hat as cowboy hats and zodiacs don't mix well

 

Finally me with my cat hat and gloves

 

 

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[Mudhen]

Aw....how cute are you guys! Loved the photos!

[WesW]

Hooah, thanks Rachel we're enjoying the wonderful polar passion y'all are expressing in words and pix.

 

 

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[jpalbny]

Me too! We loved our Svalbard trip back in 2011.

 

Looks like Rachel had better weather than we did. A little jealous...that, and her great reporting and pictures, are making me want to go back!

[rojaan19]

Enjoying your trip report Rachel, glad to see the photos of the Explorer after the refurb - the ship is looking good ! Who is the chef at the moment ? And do you have Karolina as one of your bear guards ? She is known as the "chick with the gun" - you cant miss her - she is as tall as George !