Rome trip report and answers to some questions...

[cruisemom42]

Just got back Sunday after spending four days in Rome. Generally speaking it's a little late in the season for me, but I enjoyed it nonetheless. :D

 

There was talk last year of charging admission to enter the Pantheon, starting in May 2018. So far that hasn't happened.

 

Rome was crowded, partly because of a holiday on Saturday (major parade through the heart of the Centro Storico) but partly because....Rome. Make reservations in advance if your time is short, for anything that you can. Just check to make sure you're getting them from an official site or at least from an online vendor that isn't charging an outrageous mark-up. I also highly recommend reservations for dinner spots, if you are considering a particular place. All four nights I asked my hotel to make reservations for me since I have several favorite places -- it all worked out well but at all of the places I dined I saw numerous others turned away. On the other hand, Rome has a ton of "okay" restaurants with good basic food so if you just want to wander until you find a place that appeals to you, it should be fine.

 

The 3D experience at the Baths of Caracalla was a bit of a let-down. I have to say that I enjoyed my previous visit more just using the standard audioguide (which is quite good) and my own favorite Rome guide, the Oxford Archaeological Guide to Rome. But then, I may perhaps be more experienced in looking at ruins and envisioning how they once looked than some. :cool:

 

On the other hand, I understand that the "virtual reality" experience at the Domus Aurea is quite good. I did not go myself but heard that it was very worthwhile.

 

I visited several places on the Appian Way (to avoid the big crowds in the city), including the catacombs of San Sebastiano, the "Museum of the Walls" at the old Roman gate onto the Appian Way, and the Villa and Circus of Maxentius. If you want more info, I'm happy to provide it.

 

Also, if you are ever looking for an outstanding small jewelbox of a church that's definitely off the regular tourist track, consider a visit to Santa Prassede basilica, a 9th century church dedicated to one of two martyred sisters (daughters of a Roman senator) with a gorgeous chapel completely covered in mosaics from the 9th century. It's only steps from Santa Maria Maggiore.

 

Finally just wanted to add that I stayed at the Albergo Cesari hotel (now part of the 9Hotel group) and really enjoyed the location and the service-oriented team at the front desk. The room I was given, as a single, was oversized by European standards, with a sitting room, a separate small bedroom and a bath. Good air-conditioning too, but the room was undeniably on the shabbier side. However, for the location and also the (newly updated) rooftop terrace breakfast area and evening bar, I still recommend it as good value for the money.

[puppycanducruise]

Thank you for the info.

[senorbanda]

cruisemom42. Excellent reading and thank you for your report. I have 2 questions for you if I may.

 

1. How do you compare Basilica Santa Prassede to Basilica San Clemente?

 

2. Are there guided tours at the Baths of Caracalla in addition to audioguides?

 

Thank you in advance.

[bennybear]

Thank you so much for the info on Santa Prassede! I so appreciate your knowledge of off the beaten path sites. I love mosaics!

[cruisemom42]

cruisemom42. Excellent reading and thank you for your report. I have 2 questions for you if I may.

 

1. How do you compare Basilica Santa Prassede to Basilica San Clemente?

 

2. Are there guided tours at the Baths of Caracalla in addition to audioguides?

 

Thank you in advance.

 

 

Re #1: I think San Clemente has a lot to offer for someone who hasn't seen a lot of Rome already because it gives you such a nice overview of how the city exists in multiple levels and how things are built on top of each other over time. You've got a 12th c. basilica on top of a ruined 4th c. basilica (sacked by the Barbarians) on top of 1st c. Roman buildings.

 

Santa Prassede is especially nice as a contrast for someone already planning to visit Santa Maria Maggiore. The latter represents all the wealth and splendor of the church in Rome, while the former is a smaller and humbler church but with beautiful mosaics.

 

Re #2: I don't believe guided tours are available, but you really don't need one. Again, I highly recommend the audiotour. You might want to read or take along some information in advance (such as what's available on Wikipedia, if you don't know a lot about the typical layout of Roman baths); Wikipedia also has a nice printable plan of the baths that will help you "see" it as it was.

[epixx]

The 3D experience at the Baths of Caracalla was a bit of a let-down. I have to say that I enjoyed my previous visit more just using the standard audioguide (which is quite good) and my own favorite Rome guide, the Oxford Archaeological Guide to Rome. But then, I may perhaps be more experienced in looking at ruins and envisioning how they once looked than some. :cool:

 

 

We did the virtual reality at the Domus Aurea last summer and enjoyed it quite a lot. However, I doubt that we are nearly as adept at envisioning the ruins as you are, so you might also find this a bit disappointing.

[marazul]

Thanks for your report about the VR. I hope the one at Olympia is more interesting. I will let you know in September .

It's always fun to read your reports.

Thanks!

[senorbanda]

Re #1: I think San Clemente has a lot to offer for someone who hasn't seen a lot of Rome already because it gives you such a nice overview of how the city exists in multiple levels and how things are built on top of each other over time. You've got a 12th c. basilica on top of a ruined 4th c. basilica (sacked by the Barbarians) on top of 1st c. Roman buildings.

 

Santa Prassede is especially nice as a contrast for someone already planning to visit Santa Maria Maggiore. The latter represents all the wealth and splendor of the church in Rome, while the former is a smaller and humbler church but with beautiful mosaics.

 

Re #2: I don't believe guided tours are available, but you really don't need one. Again, I highly recommend the audiotour. You might want to read or take along some information in advance (such as what's available on Wikipedia, if you don't know a lot about the typical layout of Roman baths); Wikipedia also has a nice printable plan of the baths that will help you "see" it as it was.

Thank you cruisemom42 for your reply. I was leaning toward San Clemente because they offer a mass in english on sundays. I am hoping to be able to go to the Baths of Caracalla since it is a reasonable walking distance from our hotel. Once again, thank you for your reply.

[drdaddy]

Thanks for the report, Cruisemom.

 

Which restaurants did you go to that were so crowded? And were they worth it?

[cruisemom42]

Thanks for the report, Cruisemom.

 

Which restaurants did you go to that were so crowded? And were they worth it?

 

:lips-sealed::lips-sealed:

 

Sorry, I don't eat and tell.

[DragonOfTheSeas]

Thank you so much for your information.

 

I am disappointed the VR at the Baths was not a positive experience.

[cruisemom42]

Thank you so much for your information.

 

I am disappointed the VR at the Baths was not a positive experience.

 

Rome has really gone in -- in a big way -- for these virtual reality tours in the last couple of years. Some of them just naturally work better than others, given the site and/or the history.

 

For example, I've had the opportunity to do both the "Forum of Augustus" and the "Forum of Caesar" evening shows (sort of a combination of one of the old sound-and-light shows and virtual reality...). I really enjoyed the latter and thought it was well done. The former was just so-so.

 

I can see the virtual reality component being very helpful at the Domus Aurea because the site itself is basically a mess and an active archaeological zone. It is much more difficult to picture what Nero's Palace looked like in its heyday than it is to picture the Baths of Caracalla, given the excellent state of preservation there.

[LondonTowner]

Does the hotel have a lift?

 

 

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[cruisemom42]

Does the hotel have a lift?

 

 

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Yes, it's a bit slow but larger and sturdier than some I've seen in European hotels!

[LondonTowner]

Thanks

 

 

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[baggal]

Just got back Sunday after spending four days in Rome. Generally speaking it's a little late in the season for me, but I enjoyed it nonetheless. :D

 

 

 

There was talk last year of charging admission to enter the Pantheon, starting in May 2018. So far that hasn't happened.

 

 

 

Rome was crowded, partly because of a holiday on Saturday (major parade through the heart of the Centro Storico) but partly because....Rome. Make reservations in advance if your time is short, for anything that you can. Just check to make sure you're getting them from an official site or at least from an online vendor that isn't charging an outrageous mark-up. I also highly recommend reservations for dinner spots, if you are considering a particular place. All four nights I asked my hotel to make reservations for me since I have several favorite places -- it all worked out well but at all of the places I dined I saw numerous others turned away. On the other hand, Rome has a ton of "okay" restaurants with good basic food so if you just want to wander until you find a place that appeals to you, it should be fine.

 

 

 

The 3D experience at the Baths of Caracalla was a bit of a let-down. I have to say that I enjoyed my previous visit more just using the standard audioguide (which is quite good) and my own favorite Rome guide, the Oxford Archaeological Guide to Rome. But then, I may perhaps be more experienced in looking at ruins and envisioning how they once looked than some. :cool:

 

 

 

On the other hand, I understand that the "virtual reality" experience at the Domus Aurea is quite good. I did not go myself but heard that it was very worthwhile.

 

 

 

I visited several places on the Appian Way (to avoid the big crowds in the city), including the catacombs of San Sebastiano, the "Museum of the Walls" at the old Roman gate onto the Appian Way, and the Villa and Circus of Maxentius. If you want more info, I'm happy to provide it.

 

 

 

Also, if you are ever looking for an outstanding small jewelbox of a church that's definitely off the regular tourist track, consider a visit to Santa Prassede basilica, a 9th century church dedicated to one of two martyred sisters (daughters of a Roman senator) with a gorgeous chapel completely covered in mosaics from the 9th century. It's only steps from Santa Maria Maggiore.

 

 

 

Finally just wanted to add that I stayed at the Albergo Cesari hotel (now part of the 9Hotel group) and really enjoyed the location and the service-oriented team at the front desk. The room I was given, as a single, was oversized by European standards, with a sitting room, a separate small bedroom and a bath. Good air-conditioning too, but the room was undeniably on the shabbier side. However, for the location and also the (newly updated) rooftop terrace breakfast area and evening bar, I still recommend it as good value for the money.

 

 

 

I'm sorry to say that we stayed at the 9N Cesari in early May and we were very disappointed. First, the rooftop was closed due to renovations but nowhere on its website did it say that. The room where they served their mediocre breakfast was small and cramped. While the location was great, the hotel itself needs a lot of updating. Our double room was the size of a small cruise ship cabin which we could live with. What we couldn't live with was the toilet that broke the morning we were checking out. A handyman was unable to patch it together. Finally, Tomasso at the front desk gave us the key to another room so that we could use the bathroom before we left the hotel.

 

This was not an inexpensive hotel stay. They could do better.

 

 

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[cruisemom42]

I'm sorry to say that we stayed at the 9N Cesari in early May and we were very disappointed. First, the rooftop was closed due to renovations but nowhere on its website did it say that. The room where they served their mediocre breakfast was small and cramped. While the location was great, the hotel itself needs a lot of updating. Our double room was the size of a small cruise ship cabin which we could live with. What we couldn't live with was the toilet that broke the morning we were checking out. A handyman was unable to patch it together. Finally, Tomasso at the front desk gave us the key to another room so that we could use the bathroom before we left the hotel.

 

This was not an inexpensive hotel stay. They could do better.

 

 

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I can certainly understand being upset if you did not get access to the lovely roof terrace area and had issues with your room.

 

I booked my room there well in advance and thought the rate was extremely good for the area and for the size of room I received.

 

A little surprised at your comment about the breakfast though -- I thought it was very typical of what I've come to expect for breakfast in Italian hotels, and plentiful. The bread and rolls were particularly good and fresh -- especially the ones with the pattern on top that looks like a soccer ball. I'd eat one of those, with butter and a slice of cheese and salami, and then have a fresh boiled egg.

 

The sweet pastries were likewise delicious. I became particularly fond of the cornetto (Italian version of the croissant) filled with a delicious orange marmalade and dusted with powdered sugar. Again, these were very fresh.

 

Italians don't tend to eat American style breakfasts with scrambled eggs, bacon, etc. The hotel has those available for an upcharge but I didn't try them as I was very satisfied with the included free breakfast. There was also some cereal/granola options, breakfast crisps and nutella, and fresh fruit.

 

Oh, and delicious cappucinos are also available free for the asking. I usually had two each morning to get me going. ;)

[baggal]

I can certainly understand being upset if you did not get access to the lovely roof terrace area and had issues with your room.

 

 

 

I booked my room there well in advance and thought the rate was extremely good for the area and for the size of room I received.

 

 

 

A little surprised at your comment about the breakfast though -- I thought it was very typical of what I've come to expect for breakfast in Italian hotels, and plentiful. The bread and rolls were particularly good and fresh -- especially the ones with the pattern on top that looks like a soccer ball. I'd eat one of those, with butter and a slice of cheese and salami, and then have a fresh boiled egg.

 

 

 

The sweet pastries were likewise delicious. I became particularly fond of the cornetto (Italian version of the croissant) filled with a delicious orange marmalade and dusted with powdered sugar. Again, these were very fresh.

 

 

 

Italians don't tend to eat American style breakfasts with scrambled eggs, bacon, etc. The hotel has those available for an upcharge but I didn't try them as I was very satisfied with the included free breakfast. There was also some cereal/granola options, breakfast crisps and nutella, and fresh fruit.

 

 

 

Oh, and delicious cappucinos are also available free for the asking. I usually had two each morning to get me going. ;)

 

 

 

Yes! The bread and pastries looked excellent but I was saving my carbs for pasta and pizza during the day! The cold cuts were a turn-off. No better than from my local supermarket. That is why food opinions are so subjective.

 

 

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[bennybear]

:D Oh dear, cruise Mom you have given me a serious craving for those marmalade stuffed cornettos!

 

Gotta love cake for breakfast. When in Rome......

[raks]

I can certainly understand being upset if you did not get access to the lovely roof terrace area and had issues with your room.

 

I booked my room there well in advance and thought the rate was extremely good for the area and for the size of room I received.

 

A little surprised at your comment about the breakfast though -- I thought it was very typical of what I've come to expect for breakfast in Italian hotels, and plentiful. The bread and rolls were particularly good and fresh -- especially the ones with the pattern on top that looks like a soccer ball. I'd eat one of those, with butter and a slice of cheese and salami, and then have a fresh boiled egg.

 

The sweet pastries were likewise delicious. I became particularly fond of the cornetto (Italian version of the croissant) filled with a delicious orange marmalade and dusted with powdered sugar. Again, these were very fresh.

 

Italians don't tend to eat American style breakfasts with scrambled eggs, bacon, etc. The hotel has those available for an upcharge but I didn't try them as I was very satisfied with the included free breakfast. There was also some cereal/granola options, breakfast crisps and nutella, and fresh fruit.

 

Oh, and delicious cappucinos are also available free for the asking. I usually had two each morning to get me going. ;)

 

I have been trying to book this hotel for early May next year, I can only find it on 2 online booking sites for that time, their website prices are quoting over 6000 euro, and I have sent 3 emails with no response. Looks like they have not released prices past Dec 2018. I have seen a few comments about an upcoming renovation, perhaps that is why they have no prices released. Wondering if you heard anything about extensive rennos or have an email address for them so I can check the email address I have been using is correct?

[cruisemom42]

I have been trying to book this hotel for early May next year, I can only find it on 2 online booking sites for that time, their website prices are quoting over 6000 euro, and I have sent 3 emails with no response. Looks like they have not released prices past Dec 2018. I have seen a few comments about an upcoming renovation, perhaps that is why they have no prices released. Wondering if you heard anything about extensive rennos or have an email address for them so I can check the email address I have been using is correct?

 

Hotels in Europe often do not load availability on booking sites as far in advance as US hotels. I didn't hear anything about renovations when I was there, although it looked like they were working on reno'ing a room on my floor (saw workmen; did not hear any noise).

 

The email I have (from corresponding with them prior to my trip) is info@9hotelcesari.com

[raks]

Hotels in Europe often do not load availability on booking sites as far in advance as US hotels. I didn't hear anything about renovations when I was there, although it looked like they were working on reno'ing a room on my floor (saw workmen; did not hear any noise).

 

The email I have (from corresponding with them prior to my trip) is info@9hotelcesari.com

 

Thank you, that is the email I was using, I have now made contact with them through their Facebook page.