SAN FRANCISCO

[gfs1ram]

Hi. We are staying for 4 days in San Francisco before joining the Queen Elizabeth on July 3rd for the 21 day trip to NYC.

 

The Roll Calls seem fairly quiet, so as this will be our first visit to San Fran, thought we would seek information from a wider

audience.

 

Can anyone please recommend any 'mid range' Hotel and prioritise any trips we should / need to do whilst in San Fran.

 

Thank you in anticipation of your assistance. 

 

GFS   in the UK.

[Host Hattie]

The ports of call board may be useful

 

https://boards.cruisecritic.co.uk/forum/142-california-coastal-pacific-northwest/

[LadyL1]

We are thinking of booking the trip before you that disembarks in SFO. If you want to be central to everything look on the www at hotels around Union Square. Also agree about not staying at Fisherman’s Walk as Ratflinger says. I think Alcatraz is a “must do”, but it books out very early, especially in summer, but you can reserve this online months in advance (not sure how many). 

Enjoy a wonderful city!

Edited May 20, 2019 by LadyL1

[Jack E Dawson]

You probably won't have feces thrown in your face in the Fisherman's Wharf area but you will be very aggressively hustled by homeless and druggies. SF has long had a large homeless population and sadly, the past couple of years have seen it grow. However, there are so many great things to see and do there. I would recommend taking a Gray Line bus tour the first morning to get a good look at what the city offers, then go back and spend time at the points that peak your interest. You may also want to take a  day trip across the Golden Gate bridge to John Muir Woods and walk among the Giant Redwoods, some of the tallest trees in the world. On your way back, stop in Tiburon, a small artist colony on the north side of SF Bay and enjoy a meal with a super view of the City and the Golden Gate Bridge. Of course, ride the Street Car all the way down to the waterfront and then take a tour of the Ghirardelli Chocolate Factory. Then stop in to the Buena Vista bar for an Irish Coffee. Believe it or not, that is where it was invented. 

SF is going to be very busy during that time period due to the 4th being a national holiday and public schools being out for summer holiday. Also, hotels in SF get a premium price. We usually stay at either Hilton or Marriott properties. Book as soon as you can!

Would love to hear your impressions of SF after you get back form your voyage.

 

Jack

[Bigmike911]

1 hour ago, Jack E Dawson said:

You probably won't have feces thrown in your face in the Fisherman's Wharf area but you will be very aggressively hustled by homeless and druggies. SF has long had a large homeless population and sadly, the past couple of years have seen it grow. However, there are so many great things to see and do there. I would recommend taking a Gray Line bus tour the first morning to get a good look at what the city offers, then go back and spend time at the points that peak your interest. You may also want to take a  day trip across the Golden Gate bridge to John Muir Woods and walk among the Giant Redwoods, some of the tallest trees in the world. On your way back, stop in Tiburon, a small artist colony on the north side of SF Bay and enjoy a meal with a super view of the City and the Golden Gate Bridge. Of course, ride the Street Car all the way down to the waterfront and then take a tour of the Ghirardelli Chocolate Factory. Then stop in to the Buena Vista bar for an Irish Coffee. Believe it or not, that is where it was invented. 

SF is going to be very busy during that time period due to the 4th being a national holiday and public schools being out for summer holiday. Also, hotels in SF get a premium price. We usually stay at either Hilton or Marriott properties. Book as soon as you can!

Would love to hear your impressions of SF after you get back form your voyage.

 

Jack

You can catch a ferry from the ferry terminal at the foot of Market St. and visit Sausalito, there are interesting tourist shops there and I recommend the Spinnaker Restaurant a short walk past the Yacht club to the right from the ferry landing.  You will have a great view of the bay the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz and Angel Island. It is a great get away from the mess that some parts of SF have become. 

 

 

Edited May 21, 2019 by Bigmike911

[brian1]

The trolley museum is interesting.It's actually the working central hub for all the underground cables that drive the trolleys on all lines.

[MarkBearSF]

What interests you?
 

Within the city,

 - The SF Museum of Modern Art and the Asian Art Museums are world-class (downtown) and the stunning DeYoung art museum and CA Academy of Sciences natural history museum are both in knockout buildings across from each other and the charming Japanese Tea Garden (where Fortune Cookies were first sold) in Golden Gate Park.
 - There's great shopping in Union Square
 - I just checked and there are still a few good seats at reasonable price for Hamilton that weekend ($250 orch). There are lots of other local companies (ACT, Berkeley Rep, SF Playhouse) and although I assume the Opera and Ballet are off for the summer, the Symphony usually has a summer program. The Giants may have a game at Oracle Stadium
- One classic SF show will be closing at the end of the year after over 40 years, Beach Blanket Babylon. It's a fast paced revue with song, schtick, dance, and VERY big hats. Highly recommended (also get tickets in advance) A great evening paired with dinner in North Beach.
- The aforementioned Alcatraz tour is excellent. and YES you want to reserve tickets in advance. The tour boats on the Bay are also interesting and give a decent history lesson while pointing out sights near the waterfront. The best part is getting out in the bay and sailing around Alcatraz and under the Golden Gate and SF Bay Bridges. (but don't do both) There are also tours of SF History, Hippie tours, Beatnik tours, Gay History tours, Foodie tours, Hop on Hop off tours, Duck tours,
- It's a great city for walking, although it can have its challenges. Others have mentioned the unfortunate problem of the homeless and those with drugs & mental illness problems. SF is spending millions, but considering the absurd cost of housing (highest in the nation), it's not an easy problem to solve.
The other challenge can be hills. The stories aren't an exaggeration. However, there are still lots of great walks that are mostly horizontal.
 - North Beach & Chinatown
 - The Embarcadero and Fisherman's Wharf
 - The Castro, Dolores Park, and the Mission
 - Haight Ashbury and Golden Gate Park

If you want to get out of the city for a day,
- Wine country in Napa or Sonoma. There's also a great "Wine Train" that goes from Napa to St Helena and back. It's an antique lounge car with Napa wines and dinner car. Half of the passengers are in each car and when they turn around you switch.
- Redwoods in Muir Valley and elsewhere
- Santa Cruz and Big Sur

 

Also to add to the cautions. If you rent a car, realize that car burglary is a big problem. Especially for tourists who can often have valuable stuff in the cars.
 - Do NOT leave anything valuable in your car - especially in the open. And of course, do NOT leave your car unlocked.

SF, like most dense cities, has good areas and bad. And the changes can be as short as a block. (Specifically, in SF you want to avoid the Tenderloin when downtown). You may want to ask at your hotel, which directions are best to walk. Our crime rate is low, but like in any city, it's best to keep aware of your surroundings.
 

Edited May 21, 2019 by MarkBearSF

[MarkBearSF]

6 hours ago, Jack E Dawson said:

Of course, ride the Street Car all the way down to the waterfront and then take a tour of the Ghirardelli Chocolate Factory. Then stop in to the Buena Vista bar for an Irish Coffee. Believe it or not, that is where it was invented.

A great post - but if I may offer a bit of a correction and amplification... (us SF folk get touchy around our lore)

Yes, the CABLE cars are great. Lots of fun and very interesting. Even for natives! But they aren't street cars (those are the other ones that run on rails on the street, but run by electricity, like along the Embarcadero and down Market St.) nor trolleys (more of a generic term and technically only applies to our "electric buses")

And Brian, the Cable Car Museum IS a frequently overlooked gem. Those large spools of cable that power the system are fascinating!
 

Not surprisingly, Irish Coffee was first invented in Ireland (but I assume not by that name) but was brought back to the US by a SF Chronicle columnist after he enjoyed one at the Shannon Airport. The bartenders at the Buena Vista Cafe worked with him to duplicate the recipe and serve gallons of them daily since.

(I think this insider's tip is still valid - it's been over 10 years since I've been there. There's a second, smaller dining room next to the main bar. Few people notice it and it's accessible by a hallway opposite the entrance near the rear right corner, past the bar. Through what looks like a hallway to the bathrooms. Uncrowded tables. They serve a decent lunch - with broad windows looking across the street to Ghirardelli Square)

Edited May 21, 2019 by MarkBearSF

[LadyL1]

Just another thought for a wonderful day! Last time we were in SFO we took the bus to the Sutro Historic District and had lunch at the Cliff House. (Cliffhouse dot com) The  views and the beaches are amazing, and the lunch was excellent; I think it would be wasted to go in the evening when dark, for what you would miss. The journey also gave us the opportunity to see a lot of the city.  Be warned if you hire a car, parking can be a nightmare, but the the public transport of all kinds is the way to get around the city, and it is fun!

[naturelovergirl]

I love the restaurant called Boulevard

It is incredible and out of the touristy area... pricey- but outstanding... if you don’t want to spring for dinner... go for lunch!

[Jack E Dawson]

7 hours ago, MarkBearSF said:

A great post - but if I may offer a bit of a correction and amplification... (us SF folk get touchy around our lore)

Yes, the CABLE cars are great. Lots of fun and very interesting. Even for natives! But they aren't street cars (those are the other ones that run on rails on the street, but run by electricity, like along the Embarcadero and down Market St.) nor trolleys (more of a generic term and technically only applies to our "electric buses")
 

Not surprisingly, Irish Coffee was first invented in Ireland (but I assume not by that name) but was brought back to the US by a SF Chronicle columnist after he enjoyed one at the Shannon Airport. The bartenders at the Buena Vista Cafe worked with him to duplicate the recipe and serve gallons of them daily since.
 

 

MarkBearSF,

Please accept my apology, I meant CABLE Car, not Street Car, I know better. Being from New Orleans, where we have STREET Cars, I sometimes slip up. But I promise NEVER to make the ultimate faux pas and refer to your great city as "Frisco".

 

Jack

 

[MarkBearSF]

To keep this going, if you're in the City (always "the City," "San Francisco," or "SF." Never "Frisco" or "San Fran") for a day or two, here are some SF foods (some known, others less so)

• Of course, Sourdough Bread.
  - Clam chowder in a bread bowl is NOT a historically authentic SF food, but IS delicious. Especially at the Boudin Bread bakeries and restaurants (Fisherman's Wharf and Embarcadero Center).
  - Another SF bread roll is the most popular choice for sandwiches here and not found elsewhere, "Dutch Crunch" is a hearty roll (about like a ciabatta roll) with a distinctive mottled crust that is softer than a french or sourdough crust, but more substantial than a traditional bun.
• Speaking of bread, Focaccia is a rich "pizza bread" that is best from the old Liguria Bakery near Washington Square in North Beach.
• Cioppino is our fisherman's stew, created over a hundred years ago by fishermen from Italy.
• Dungeness Crab is delicious. The season off the SF coast starts just before Thanksgiving and makes for a traditional SF holiday meal.
• Another great way to eat Dungeness Crab is in a Crab Louis Salad
• Less popular these days, the Green Goddess Salad was invented in the beautiful Palace Hotel. (The Garden Court is one of the most spectacular spaces in the world and is open for tea in the afternoon. Reservations recommended)
• Joe's Special was invented after a boozy evening about 60 years ago, made from what was available after hours and is a great brunch dish. Ground beef, scrambled eggs, spinach, and usually mushrooms and parmesan cheese. 
• Fortune Cookies were invented here. If it hasn't been forced out of business yet, there's one remaining old fortune cookie bakery in a historic alley in Chinatown. (They have tours, I think) As mentioned earlier, they were first sold at the Japanese Tea Garden in Golden Gate Park. They aren't really Chinese or Japanese.  (Chop Suey was also invented here)
• While burritos were invented elsewhere, SF created the massive Mission style Burrito, with meat, beans, rice, cheese, and optionally, guac, sour cream, tomato, lettuce). Delicious. Basically what Chipotle serves, but better.
• While SF has always been a big drinking town (Prohibition was only a slight inconvenience here), there are only a few drinks I know which are associated with the City.
  - A Ramos Fizz is a delicious brunch drink. (Gin, sparkling water, egg foam, sugar, orange water)
  - Martinis were arguably invented nearby in Martinez.
  - Anchor Steam Beer recalls beer like that which was brewed by early settlers
• For dessert - how about an It's It ice cream sandwich with oatmeal cookies, dipped in milk chocolate?
  (Popsicles were also invented here. Supposedly when someone left a drink with a stick on the window sill where it froze overnight. But it VERY seldom gets cold enough to freeze things)

Edited May 21, 2019 by MarkBearSF

[MarkBearSF]

6 hours ago, LadyL1 said:

Just another thought for a wonderful day! Last time we were in SFO we took the bus to the Sutro Historic District and had lunch at the Cliff House. (Cliffhouse dot com) The  views and the beaches are amazing, and the lunch was excellent; I think it would be wasted to go in the evening when dark, for what you would miss. The journey also gave us the opportunity to see a lot of the city.  Be warned if you hire a car, parking can be a nightmare, but the the public transport of all kinds is the way to get around the city, and it is fun!

 

We had a wonderful brunch there on Easter. It had probably been 3 decades since any of us had been there. In years back, it was one of those restaurants that was known more for the views than the food. About 6 years ago, the restaurant was remodeled and a new chef and menu came in and it got decent reviews.

We were very happily surprised.

Also of note, is the Camera Obscura, on the rear patio outside, a relic from years ago that is actually really cool and worth the small admission fee. Using ancient technology, it uses a rotating lens to project a live view of the seal rocks off the coast on a round disk in the darkened room.

The views of the ruins of the great Sutro Baths below are also cool!

One caution, it's quite a way out, and not necessarily near things. But, if you're renting a car a d driving, it works well with Golden Gate Park and/or The Golden Gate Bridge and Presidio. (And yes, the 5 Fulton bus and others will go there)

[Jack E Dawson]

Mark,

Here is a link to a great article on the origin of Irish Coffee and the role the Buena Vista played in it. 

 

https://www.kqed.org/news/11621844/the-true-history-of-irish-coffee-and-its-san-francisco-origins

 

Hope you enjoy.

 

Jack

[gfs1ram]

Just to say a big thank you to all the people who have responded to my request.

 

Especially the people who have obviously gone to great lengths to provide information

on San Francisco and surrounding area. (apologises for calling it San Fran !!)

 

Very interesting and helpful comments/recommendations.

Really looking forward to the trip.

 

Does anyone else have any specific experience/recommendations regarding San Francisco Hotels ?

Thank you.

[frantic36]

We visited San Francisco over the 4th July weekend in 2017 and loved our time there. We stayed in the Hilton in the Financial District. It was fine as far as big hotels go. I must admit I am usually a small hotel person.

 

I would definitely book your hotel and if you want to do an Alcatraz evening tour book that very soon too. This is a very busy time of year. As it falls on a Thursday this year some people may choose to take off a Friday to give themselves a longer break.

 

The rumours about the weather in San Francisco being very cold due to wind chill factor in July are all true 😊. We loved our evening tour on Alcatraz but were glad we had beanies, gloves and warm jackets. We then stayed with friends for a few days in Napa and we were in shorts and t-shirts as the Temperature was in the 80's.

 

We attempted with our Napa friends to park near the Golden Gate Bridge so we could walk over but the traffic on 3 July was so huge we ended up giving up. Luckily we will be back late May next year so we can try again.

 

I second the recommendation for the Boulevard Restaurant. It is pricey but the atmosphere was lovely and the food delicious.

[MarkBearSF]

1 hour ago, gfs1ram said:

Does anyone else have any specific experience/recommendations regarding San Francisco Hotels ?

Thank you.

 

- Check out hotels from two SF-based boutique chains Kimpton and JDV. Especially check out the Sir Francis Drake on Union Square. Some of the rooms are a bit old and spare, but some of their prices and the location is great.
- AirBnB is also an option. (Based here too)

 

I recommend hotels near Union Square for convenient location if you're spending more than 1-2 days. (just don't go further west than Taylor St)

Agreed about weather. It's always a question whether the July 4th fireworks will be obscured by fog. About 2/3 of the time, that's true. I suspect that a sizeable portion of our city budget comes from sales tax charged to tourists buying sweatshirts who've packed for "California Summer" and get caught at Fisherman's Wharf once the fog rolls in around 5 PM.

And Boulevard IS a wonderful restaurant.

And no problem with the "San Fran," gfs1ram. 😀

Edited May 21, 2019 by MarkBearSF

[Bigmike911]

On 5/21/2019 at 9:37 AM, MarkBearSF said:

To keep this going, if you're in the City (always "the City," "San Francisco," or "SF." Never "Frisco" or "San Fran") for a day or two, here are some SF foods (some known, others less so)

• Of course, Sourdough Bread.
  - Clam chowder in a bread bowl is NOT a historically authentic SF food, but IS delicious. Especially at the Boudin Bread bakeries and restaurants (Fisherman's Wharf and Embarcadero Center).
  - Another SF bread roll is the most popular choice for sandwiches here and not found elsewhere, "Dutch Crunch" is a hearty roll (about like a ciabatta roll) with a distinctive mottled crust that is softer than a french or sourdough crust, but more substantial than a traditional bun.
• Speaking of bread, Focaccia is a rich "pizza bread" that is best from the old Liguria Bakery near Washington Square in North Beach.
• Cioppino is our fisherman's stew, created over a hundred years ago by fishermen from Italy.
• Dungeness Crab is delicious. The season off the SF coast starts just before Thanksgiving and makes for a traditional SF holiday meal.
• Another great way to eat Dungeness Crab is in a Crab Louis Salad
• Less popular these days, the Green Goddess Salad was invented in the beautiful Palace Hotel. (The Garden Court is one of the most spectacular spaces in the world and is open for tea in the afternoon. Reservations recommended)
• Joe's Special was invented after a boozy evening about 60 years ago, made from what was available after hours and is a great brunch dish. Ground beef, scrambled eggs, spinach, and usually mushrooms and parmesan cheese. 
• Fortune Cookies were invented here. If it hasn't been forced out of business yet, there's one remaining old fortune cookie bakery in a historic alley in Chinatown. (They have tours, I think) As mentioned earlier, they were first sold at the Japanese Tea Garden in Golden Gate Park. They aren't really Chinese or Japanese.  (Chop Suey was also invented here)
• While burritos were invented elsewhere, SF created the massive Mission style Burrito, with meat, beans, rice, cheese, and optionally, guac, sour cream, tomato, lettuce). Delicious. Basically what Chipotle serves, but better.
• While SF has always been a big drinking town (Prohibition was only a slight inconvenience here), there are only a few drinks I know which are associated with the City.
  - A Ramos Fizz is a delicious brunch drink. (Gin, sparkling water, egg foam, sugar, orange water)
  - Martinis were arguably invented nearby in Martinez.
  - Anchor Steam Beer recalls beer like that which was brewed by early settlers
• For dessert - how about an It's It ice cream sandwich with oatmeal cookies, dipped in milk chocolate?
  (Popsicles were also invented here. Supposedly when someone left a drink with a stick on the window sill where it froze overnight. But it VERY seldom gets cold enough to freeze things)

Mark, Just send them to Tadich Grill on California St. for a late lunch and they won't have to worry about anything, just the great food. 

[tv24]

Mark has some terrific recommendations which are hard to top.  I would add to consider a boutique hotel near Union Square.  Note that no hotels in San Francisco are cheap.  And I also recommend an afternoon when you get off the beaten path to explore a part of the city where tourists don't often go such as Valencia Street in the Mission District.

[HaveDogWillTravel]

On 5/21/2019 at 2:43 PM, gfs1ram said:

Just to say a big thank you to all the people who have responded to my request.

 

Especially the people who have obviously gone to great lengths to provide information

on San Francisco and surrounding area. (apologises for calling it San Fran !!)

 

Very interesting and helpful comments/recommendations.

Really looking forward to the trip.

 

Does anyone else have any specific experience/recommendations regarding San Francisco Hotels ?

Thank you.

The Hilton Financial District is my favorite hotel in SF. Even though we are locals, once a year we book a room on the top floor with a balcony facing the bay. You will have 180 degree views than span from China town on the left, northbeach and Columbus blvd just in front of you to nob hill and finally the Embarcadero on the right. We simply love to sit on our balcony with a glass of wine in the evening watching the ships sailing as they come back to port and the lights along Columbus start to come on as the sun sets.   Nob hill lights up. It is truly a wonderful experience. 

[Hawaii136]

We live in SF Bay Area, but occasionally like to spend night in the city.

hotel Nikko is near union square, very modern.

sometimes we stay at Hotel Vitale near ferry building and Boulevard resto.

 

[MarkBearSF]

5 minutes ago, Hawaii136 said:

We live in SF Bay Area, but occasionally like to spend night in the city.

hotel Nikko is near union square, very modern.

sometimes we stay at Hotel Vitale near ferry building and Boulevard resto.

 

The Hotel Nikko is very nice and located in Union Square. Very Japanese.
The best part is they have one of the great cabarets in the country, Feinstein's at the Nikko, which attracts top talent in a wonderful, intimate room. (We saw Chita Rivera there in April)

[gfs1ram]

Thank you again for your responses.

[Elizabeth0829]

Dear gfs1ram;  I don't have any recommendations about San Francisco - that being said - when I was there with my daughter (she lives in San Diego) we did have the Irish Coffee at the Buena Vista, we did ride on the cable cars, and explored the Ferry Building (and getting there using the old refurbished trolley cars that San Francisco brought in from all over the US - these trolleys travel all up and down Market Street. You might want to take the trolley from the Embarcadero (where the Ferry building is located) to Fisherman's Wharf and Pier 39. Drivers do not have change - fares are: Adult streetcar fare $2.75; Senior streetcar fare (and 65+, valid ID) $1.25 .The trolley's are a part of the SF Muni's historic F-Line. The Ferry building has restaurants. wineries, high-end crafts, candy, well worth visiting. 

However, I signed on to apologize about my TA's contacting the Purser on the QE about the Yellow Fever vaccination.  My TA didn't believe me when I spoke to her about your research - and sent an email message to the Purser before I even know what she was doing - it seems, having worked for Cunard for some 20 years, she knows the Purser well.  While I was still on the phone with her the Purser sent back the message confirming the information you had researched and posted on CruiseCritic.  I just didn't want you to think I was questioning your in-depth research - thank heaven you found out and let all of us know.  Thank you.

See you on board - have a wonderful time in San Francisco.

[gfs1ram]

On 6/8/2019 at 3:41 AM, Elizabeth0829 said:

Dear gfs1ram;  I don't have any recommendations about San Francisco - that being said - when I was there with my daughter (she lives in San Diego) we did have the Irish Coffee at the Buena Vista, we did ride on the cable cars, and explored the Ferry Building (and getting there using the old refurbished trolley cars that San Francisco brought in from all over the US - these trolleys travel all up and down Market Street. You might want to take the trolley from the Embarcadero (where the Ferry building is located) to Fisherman's Wharf and Pier 39. Drivers do not have change - fares are: Adult streetcar fare $2.75; Senior streetcar fare (and 65+, valid ID) $1.25 .The trolley's are a part of the SF Muni's historic F-Line. The Ferry building has restaurants. wineries, high-end crafts, candy, well worth visiting. 

However, I signed on to apologize about my TA's contacting the Purser on the QE about the Yellow Fever vaccination.  My TA didn't believe me when I spoke to her about your research - and sent an email message to the Purser before I even know what she was doing - it seems, having worked for Cunard for some 20 years, she knows the Purser well.  While I was still on the phone with her the Purser sent back the message confirming the information you had researched and posted on CruiseCritic.  I just didn't want you to think I was questioning your in-depth research - thank heaven you found out and let all of us know.  Thank you.

See you on board - have a wonderful time in San Francisco.

 

Hello Elizabeth

 

Thank you for your response and the information regarding the Streetcars is very interesting.

 

You have no need to apologise for your TA contacting the Purser on board the QE. Indeed I was pleased to note that at least he gave a definitive reply unlike Cunard.

The situation is most unsatisfactory and is further complicated as you will probably have seen by another passenger on roll call 919 finding a document issued in Aruba apparently stating that over 60"s or if only visiting for less than 24 hours then passengers are exempt.  

https://www.airportaruba.com/yellow-fever

 

I forwarded that link to Cunard UK but they still say Yellow Fever vaccination IS required and that without the appropriate documentation boarding may be denied.  

 

I know for a fact that in January this year passengers on the Queen Victoria which was circumnavigating South America from Southampton back to Southampton where denied boarding and sent to a local surgery to have the yellow fever vaccination before they were allowed to board as we had friends on that cruise.

 

I will look out for you boarding at LA and on board and hope that we have  a great cruise.

 

Regards  gfs