Stay in Civitavecchia or Rome?

[claireruth]

We are taking an MSC cruise out of Rome next March for spring break.  The way our travel days/flight times will most likely work out means we'll get there morning or midday the day before we get on the ship (ideally we would get there 2+ days early but with school schedules we just can't make it work).  From the map it looks like it's roughly the same travel time from the airport to Civitavecchia or Rome.  Does it make sense to go into Rome for roughly 24 hours and then to the cruise port from there, or is it better to go directly to Civitavecchia?  We'll have two days in Rome after the cruise.  I feel like more time in Rome would be good, but not if it significantly complicates travel plans.

[carlmm]

I certainly would prefer Rome.

So many cruise passengers go an excursion that gives them only 5 hours in Rome, thus 24 hours are plenty to enjoy. 

Maybe you could pick a hotel in a different location than after the cruise.

 

Edited October 12, 2022 by carlmm

[euro cruiser]

I can't imagine being that close to Rome and giving up even just a few hours there.  Dinner in Rome, an evening stroll, maybe another walk in the morning before your transfer to the ship, vs. the same in Civitavecchia ... there is no contest.

[CruiserBruce]

Agree with previous posters. Rome, no debate.

[FreestyleNovice]

Definitely Rome.

[claireruth]

On 10/12/2022 at 9:27 AM, euro cruiser said:

I can't imagine being that close to Rome and giving up even just a few hours there.  Dinner in Rome, an evening stroll, maybe another walk in the morning before your transfer to the ship, vs. the same in Civitavecchia ... there is no contest.

Yeah, that was kind of my thinking...I'd rather some time there than none!

[happyyaya]

Any suggestions for hotels in Rome that perhaps have connections to cruise terminal in Civitavechia? Or easy taxi ride to cruise terminal?

[euro cruiser]

Well, as the port at Civitavecchia is more than 70 km (45 miles +) from the center of Rome, I'm not sure "easy" describes the trip, but you can certainly use a car service or taxi to get there.  Train is also an option, as are shared shuttles or the public bus.

[CruiserBruce]

51 minutes ago, happyyaya said:

Any suggestions for hotels in Rome that perhaps have connections to cruise terminal in Civitavechia? Or easy taxi ride to cruise terminal?

No hotel in Rome is going to provide a free shuttle or other ride to the port. The options for transport to the port are discussed extensively here.

[lisiamc]

I’m going to be that lone dissenting voice, because someone has to be.😁 We’ve been to Rome, many times. Rome has a lot to offer, but if I want to go to Rome, I go to Rome. If I want somewhere to put my head down for one night pre-cruise, I go to Civitavecchia. Two different goals, in my view. There is very nice food and wine (to drink there, or to take on board) to be had in Civitavecchia, and even a few interesting things to see, right in the town.

[claireruth]

On 10/14/2022 at 10:45 AM, lisiamc said:

I’m going to be that lone dissenting voice, because someone has to be.😁 We’ve been to Rome, many times. Rome has a lot to offer, but if I want to go to Rome, I go to Rome. If I want somewhere to put my head down for one night pre-cruise, I go to Civitavecchia. Two different goals, in my view. There is very nice food and wine (to drink there, or to take on board) to be had in Civitavecchia, and even a few interesting things to see, right in the town.

I appreciate the dissenting voice, lol!  I guess it may end up depending on what our flight times are.  If we get there early enough in the day to spend time in Rome, it makes sense to go.  If we end up there later in the day or evening, we may just want somewhere to crash after a long travel day.

[mskaufman]

I would go to Rome no matter how many times I've been.  There is always more to see.

 

[cruisemom42]

My vote is for Rome. 

 

Just to clear up a couple of things, the travel time by taxi or car is slightly less to Rome vs to Civitavecchia (e.g., 35 minutes vs. 55 minutes).  Hotels in Civitavecchia are fairly poor -- they cater to the cruise trade and are pretty much "lowest common denominator" choices IMO.  Yes, there may be one or two nicer ones but those are generally not as near the port, which sort of defeats the purpose of going to Civi at all...

 

I just had a similar choice on my return journey -- could've spent one night in an airport hotel after my cruise or one night in the center of Rome. Guess which I chose?  I was able to see an exhibition in one of my favorite museums, eat a porchetta sandwich for lunch, walk through the Roman Forum, visit the Pantheon and have dinner in my favorite restaurant.  And best, the cost of the airport hotel would've been just slightly more than the cost of staying in the Centro + the 50 euro cab fare to the airport.

 

[Rysyonok]

On 10/14/2022 at 1:45 PM, lisiamc said:

I’m going to be that lone dissenting voice, because someone has to be.😁 We’ve been to Rome, many times. Rome has a lot to offer, but if I want to go to Rome, I go to Rome. If I want somewhere to put my head down for one night pre-cruise, I go to Civitavecchia. Two different goals, in my view. There is very nice food and wine (to drink there, or to take on board) to be had in Civitavecchia, and even a few interesting things to see, right in the town.

 

May I hear more of your dissenting opinion? SO and I are of a unique mindset, where we prefer exploring on foot rather than spending time in a tin can heading down to Rome on a long excursion. We're actually considering spending our port of call of Rome's (Civitavecchia's) time staying in that port (I know, I know).

 

Would you mind sharing a few of your favorites in Civitavecchia? 

[lisiamc]

14 hours ago, Rysyonok said:

 

May I hear more of your dissenting opinion? SO and I are of a unique mindset, where we prefer exploring on foot rather than spending time in a tin can heading down to Rome on a long excursion. We're actually considering spending our port of call of Rome's (Civitavecchia's) time staying in that port (I know, I know).

 

Would you mind sharing a few of your favorites in Civitavecchia? 

We will fly into Ciampino in the late afternoon of the day before our cruise, and we’ve arranged a car to take us to Civitavecchia. My plan for that day is to check in to our B&B, then go for a glass of Prosecco and some aperitivi in a bar with a view along the lungomare. Then dinner at L’Acqua Salata, a new seafood restaurant I’ve heard good things about, or our current favourite restaurant, 80 Fame, which has amazing meat dishes and very nice wine. If the weather is good, a passeggiata and a gelato is a nice possibility. 
 

The next day, we won’t be able to board the ship until 2pm, so we will have breakfast at the B&B, then walk down to another bar along the lungomare for more cappuccino. (By changing location, I can drink more than two cappuccinos without getting the side eye.😁)

 

The first few times we visited Civitavecchia, it was pretty gritty, but there has been a lot of investment in the past few years, and the town is looking much more attractive these days, especially along the front. This is a nice little guide to the sights of Civitavecchia, obviously MUCH more limited than Rome, but not totally nonexistent. The forest is a bit too far away unless you have a car, but pretty much everything else is walkable. We’ve been to the cathedral, but not yet to the oldest church, so that might be our morning’s entertainment. Then a visit to a supermarket for some Prosecco to take on board with us as balcony wine.

Edited October 26, 2022 by lisiamc

[MaisonRose]

On 10/14/2022 at 7:45 PM, lisiamc said:

I’m going to be that lone dissenting voice, because someone has to be.😁 We’ve been to Rome, many times. Rome has a lot to offer, but if I want to go to Rome, I go to Rome. If I want somewhere to put my head down for one night pre-cruise, I go to Civitavecchia. Two different goals, in my view. There is very nice food and wine (to drink there, or to take on board) to be had in Civitavecchia, and even a few interesting things to see, right in the town.

I agree. For sheer relaxation and a pleasant time, Civitavecchia steps up. There is a wonderful, fascinating market in the center of town which I experienced on a Saturday but according to the town website it is daily (not Sunday, probably).

Another plus is that accommodations are much less expensive. It depends on how much “real” time you have in Rome.  In Nov our train to Rome... Civitavecchia,  gets us in at 7pm hence dinner and bedtime will be our evening.

 

But if that first day is one of three days that you will ever have in Rome: GO FOR IT. For sure.

[KatPem]

Rome is amazing.  We had 3.5 days there before we cruised and didn't have enough time.  If you don't get there til like 4pm or later, I would go to the port and stay, before that and I would stay in Rome....there is a lot you can do and see and then know what you want to spend more time doing after the cruise when you may be more tired.

[vapersecutor]

Sailing out of Civi on Halloween.  When I told my husband we were leaving from Rome, he said fine as long as I don’t have to go to Rome.  For him, its too big, too dirty, too many pickpockets, etc.  He’s seen the main sights and is done.  For him, Italy is pasta in a family run restaurant preferably overlooking the sea or a bike ride along a path through the countryside.  In addition we only have the afternoon we fly in until mid-day when we get onboard.  So we are staying in Civi and checking it out.  This will be our third departure from there but first overnight visit.  Here’s what we plan to see:

 

Times vary by day of week.  These were for a Sunday/Monday trip.

Sunday:

Corso Centocalle – in pedestrian section look for Etruscan ruins through glass sections of sidewalk

Piazza Fratti

Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Civitavecchia, Largo Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour, 1 – across from Michelangelo fort (free, 0830-1930 but closed on Mon, allot 1 hour) – ¾ mi from B&B

Forte Michelangelo – (free, Sat and Sun only 1600-1900, allot 30 min) – may only have courtyard area open

 Monday:

https://www.cruiseportwalks.com/port-of-civitavecchia

Market – 0630-1400 –

Piazza Leandra – Church of the Star and Casa Della Memoria (old photos of area/carpet bombings by American B-17s in WWII.  500 civilian deaths designed to break morale of people.) (M-F 10-noon, free)

Piazza Aurello Saffi – Church of the Prayer and Death

 

There is also an online walking tour geared towards cruisers on an app called VoiceMap.  The tour is Stories and Secrets of Civitavecchia and is done by an English ex-pat long term resident of Italy.  It starts near the shuttle bus stop.

 

I’ll try to remember to report back after our trip.

[cruisemom42]

For those looking to stay in Civi, just be aware that it is a port town and it is not a particularly charming town. Don't think you're going to be seeing the equivalent of a quaint town in Tuscany or Umbria. 

 

Yes, it may have cleaned up a bit in recent years but I still find it lacking much of interest and the hotels, as mentioned, do not try very hard as they have a captive audience (large number of cruisers, limited hotel options).

 

Some people do not enjoy big cities and that's fine. A bit sad to me, as I find Rome lovely and even her second- and third-tier sites would be considered "must sees" in virtually any other city. There is so much more than the Vatican and Colosseum!

 

Just keep expectations low as regards Civitavecchia. 

Edited October 27, 2022 by cruisemom42

[GreenFamily]

On 10/17/2022 at 8:20 AM, claireruth said:

I appreciate the dissenting voice, lol!  I guess it may end up depending on what our flight times are.  If we get there early enough in the day to spend time in Rome, it makes sense to go.  If we end up there later in the day or evening, we may just want somewhere to crash after a long travel day.

Are you traveling from the US? If so, you will be too miserable from jet lag to make the additional travel worth the risk of complications cruise day, such as a missing your alarm or a train strike. Your flight could be delayed. Anything can happen. You have two days at the end of your trip to hit the highlights. Stay near the port.

[euro cruiser]

While it's always true that "anything can happen", anywhere, let's not drag out that old trope about train strikes.  Unlike in the States, unplanned or wildcat strikes are almost unheard of in Italy.  It's very easy to know in advance if there is a public transportation strike planned.

[GreenFamily]

28 minutes ago, euro cruiser said:

While it's always true that "anything can happen", anywhere, let's not drag out that old trope about train strikes.  Unlike in the States, unplanned or wildcat strikes are almost unheard of in Italy.  It's very easy to know in advance if there is a public transportation strike planned.

My parents used to live in Rome. It happens often and it’s spontaneous. 

[marazul]

1 hour ago, GreenFamily said:

My parents used to live in Rome. It happens often and it’s spontaneous. 

How long ago was that?  That's an urban myth based on old circumstances. 

For several years now the Italian government and the unions have had an agreement where strikes are allowed if previously scheduled and if a period of negotiations takes place before the date.  There is a strike website where you can check the strike date and the status of negotiations.

 https://www.cgsse.it/calendario-scioperi

You can look up the dates of your visit if see if any strikes are scheduled on those dates.  The vast majority get canceled before they happen.

 

There are no wildcats strikes anymore.

Edited November 9, 2022 by marazul

[euro cruiser]

It could also be simple lack of awareness.  While the news of upcoming strikes is also published in the newspapers, in addition to the government web site, if you don't read Italian it's possible to live there and be ignorant of what's coming.  It can feel random and spontaneous if you're out of the information loop.

 

I've lost count of the number of times I've heard from tourists about "random" strikes.  They are making a common mistake of assuming that what happened the one or two times they visited must happen all the time.  And they're filling in the blanks with what makes sense to them, assuming it was unknown in advance just because they didn't know.

Edited November 9, 2022 by euro cruiser

[cruisemom42]

I have to agree with euro cruiser and marazul regarding the trains. Many people still think it's the bad old days in Italy, but wildcat strikes have largely disappeared now. 

 

Regarding whether it would complicate things significantly to stay in Rome vs. to stay in Civitavecchia -- well, think of it this way:  You arrive at FCO.  You can either do the travel first (go to Civi, then hotel) or the stay first (hotel in Rome, then travel to Civi).  To my mind there's not that much difference in the hassle factor either way, especially if you're planning on using private transportation. 

 

I travel from the US to Europe regularly and would have to also refute the idea that you'll be so miserable from jet lag that you won't enjoy anything or will run stupid risks (ask the hotel for a wake-up call if you think you'll sleep through your alarm -- believe me, they'll want you out by checkout time....). Every time I fly to Rome I manage to get in a good day's sightseeing, even if I do take it a little easier than usual.

 

It seems to me that there are some people who are so worried about getting to the ship that even being 75 minutes away from the port is too much for them to relax and enjoy themselves.  If that's the case, then head to Civi.  Other than that, I can't really see any good reason for it.