28 Days of Prinsendam

I'm really enjoying your trip reports. We've never sailed on the Prinsendam, but hope to before too long. We love the smaller ships. We hated to see the Statendam and Ryndam go. I also enjoyed hearing about the UKE Boys. We saw them on a Ryndam transatlantic and really enjoyed them. I think it was a first cruise for them with HAL and they were a substitute for entertainment that was to board in the Azores. Due to a storm we went to the Mareira islands instead and they came on board. I know they were on one of the world cruises and we hope to see them again as well.

There are solo passengers on board - we have a lovely woman who eats dinner with us and there were also solos on our roll call.

Is it best to be in Brest?

The jury on that one is still out - but this morning, once again, the miracle occurred. No matter how many times I cross the Atlantic or Pacific on a ship, no matter how much I intellectually understand modern navigation, I always, somehow, consider it to be a bit of a miracle when our ship just slides into the intended port at the intended time after a crossing. We sure did that this morning with our arrival at Brest, France.

Today it was overcast with temperatures in the mid fifties and ... continuous rain. The port provided free shuttles that made three different stops in town. First stop at the Maritime Museum which is located in a large old castle and the tour there involves some 650 steps, second stop at the main square in town, and the third stop was not far outside the port in an area where there were lots of restaurants.

Our plan ... we had a plan ... was to get off at the first stop across from the Maritime Museum and from there walk to and across the drawbridge (Europe's largest - and one that does not lift from one side like they do at home in Chicago, but rather the whole platform of the bridge goes straight up and down) and over to the "Tour Tanguay". That is a fourteenth century tower (made of stone and round like a farmer's silo with a pointed "hat" for a roof - perfectly fairy tale medieval) - which is touted to contain exhibitions about the city's medieval past. Sounded good to us. And just a bit farther down the road from there is what was described in the ship's location information "an unassuming creperie with authentic Breton creations". This sounded really good to us.

Yes, it was raining but we came prepared with raincoats and umbrellas. It was not too long a walk and it was scenic. We rapidly took photos with our cell phones so as not to get them too wet. Along the way there is a dramatic monument that looks over the water of a woman frantically grabbing the clothing of her fisherman husband as he insists upon heading out to sea.

As we approached the tower we found it surrounded by French military dressed in their camouflage uniforms, some carrying packs. We do not have a clue why there were there - for all intensive purposes they moved like tourists themselves which we think they were - but when we entered the museum we were told, in French, that we could not come in. We do not speak French but the message was clear.

Damn, and it was too early for crepes ....

So ... back we went, over the river and to the castle - we decided we were not in to mood for a major museum so we went to the the shuttle bus stop where we waited another good 10 minutes or so in the rain. By that time we were well marinated. My waterproof rain jacket, which I have had for many years, proved that if you wash it enough it is no longer so water proof - and with all the standing in the rain the water had soaked through to my heavy sweater. After a short discussion DH and I decided that they would have to be dancing naked in the square and handing out free crepes and wine to make it worthwhile to get off the shuttle again in the rain.

DH looked wistfully for such a display but alas, he was disappointed - So we went back to the ship.

At lunch on the Lido we heard many saying things like "If I am ever back here I am only getting off the ship if it is sunny". Those who went on HAL shore excursions had a more positive experience though they, too, came back wet.

Now, I am sure that you are all wondering how the international cell phone saga went today. Well, after breakfast, DH went out on the promenade deck and switched the phone on. Instantly he got a text message that said he had service. So ... a happy DH and l left the ship. While we waited in the rain for the shuttle he tried out his "maps" program, downloaded email and practiced with his translation app. All seemed good.

About four photos into our scenic walk the phone went black and could not be awakened.

Back on the ship he plugged the phone (that he thought was already well charged) in to his charger and charged it. He has been using the phone all afternoon since and it has not expired again. Is this the moment where I should say something about getting DH's battery charged? Maybe the phone will be better in Cherbourg tomorrow. But I am not counting on it.

Tonight was the last Gala Night of the first segment of our cruise - and we were honored when our table was hosted by a lovely young woman who works in the front office. A fun time was had by all and we actually had clear skies and a colorful sunset while we ate.

Cherbourg and Brugge - A Doublet Report

Yesterday was Cherbourg, today Brugge. Did not have time to write yesterday so today I am doing a doublet.

It was cold and grey in Cherbourg and the sky spit on and off all day. Definitely no where near as wet as it was in Brest, but still damp. Temperatures in the low fifties. Just, even, a little sun would have helped our day but we still had a nice time.

The port provided a free shuttle from the dock into town. We got off near the main city square and walked the block or so into the square where the market was being held. The square was filled with stalls full of fresh produce, meats, and oh, those cheeses. They were also selling other items from the stalls - one stall in particular seemed to specialize in what looked, to me, like 1950's style cotton print "house dresses" - very retro - are they coming back?

We wandered around the shops and stalls until we were well chilled - then went into a small cafe for a cup of tea - which obligingly arrived with a small butter pastry - amazingly rich and amazingly good. After we warmed up we headed out again and continued to roam.

When we chilled through the second time we decided to pick up the shuttle ad go back to the ship - but ... it turns out that the shuttle drivers get a mid-day break when, for an hour or so, no shuttle buses run at all - and guess what - it was the break time.

So ... DH and I set out again - this time hoping to find an open creperie - but none such luck. We ended up snacking in a small cafe where we could sit and enjoy the atmosphere, inside where it was warm, and wait for the time when the shuttles might run again.

Back on the ship we enjoyed another show, this time an illusionist who performed some fun illusions in pantomime. A nice way to end our day.

This morning we had a taxi from Zeebrugge to Brugge arranged to pick us up at the port at 9:30. - so for us it was a bit of an early morning. And again, grey, in the low fifties and threatening rain that might fall from those large grey clouds overhead.

The taxi ride to Brugge only took about a half hour and there were six of us in the vehicle - seated very comfortably with room to spare. There was a large line of similar 8 passenger vehicles lined up at the port gate. The port provided shuttles to the port gate and to the train station.

During the ride to Brugge we were surrounded by black fields with the green stripes of early crops beginning to come in as well as other fields bursting with the green of long, thick grasses. There were occasional cows grazing and occasional farm houses that were reminiscent of the European farms homes seen in old war movies.

The town of Brugge itself is a medieval fairy tale town - absolute eye candy - complete with cobblestone streets that twist and wind to and from the central market square and ancient canals lined with picturesque brick and stone fairy tale buildings. The market square itself is surrounded by medieval buildings and churches embellished with columns and carvings - hard to keep that camera from snapping. What a wonderful town to wander.

We hardly noticed that it was still grey and cold as we passed through tiny parks that sported regular rows of green trees. The closer we were to the square, the more chocolate shops there were,(they certainly outnumbered all other shops combined) as we moved out from the square into the old medieval sections of town lined by canals, it got a bit quieter and more residential (what a neighborhood to live in or what a place to find a hotel or guest house).

We resisted the call to ride in a horse drawn carriage, and turned down the invitation to cruise the canal in open canal boats (just seemed too cold today to enjoy a canal ride). Instead we wandered the streets like the wide eyed tourists that we are snapping photos.

When the cold finally wore through our jackets we wandered into a small restaurant in the quiet area of town. We ordered what else? Belgian Waffles with butter and sugar. They certainly put the heavy somewhat gluey versions of these treats that we get at home to shame. They were light and flavorful with a crispy outside. I had tea with mine, DH had a thick hot chocolate that came with a ramekin of heavy cream. My tea came with the standard looking disposable container of cream - but on close examination, on the top of the container where it normally has the dairy logo - it said "Milk is for Pussies". I kid thee not, and I wonder what the cruise critic editing software will do with that word ...

After a sufficient warm up we wandered back to the main market square, (though we did stop once so that I could purchase and demolish a slice of candied orange dipped in dark chocolate ... YUM) past the Torture Museum and the Historium (a well put together museum of local medieval history where you are welcomed by a mechanical man dressed as a serf who clangs his bell at you while he tries to tempt you to enter).

The town was absolutely crammed with tourists - not just ship people - and many of them groups of school children -- of all ages, visiting the museums and this historical city. At lunch time they would sit in the market square and eat - almost universally the girls seemed to be munching on French fries smothered in mayonnaise or, (I hate to admit this but I have to say it) McDonald's (Yes they have a McDonalds in town - in a medieval building with a large doorway labeled only by a rather small oval green sign with the yellow Golden Arches logo on it. It was very crowded every time we passed ...) - the boys, however, seemed to be munching on carefully prepared lunches from home that they ate out of their lunch boxes. Interesting dynamic ...

It should be noted that once or twice today the sun did make short appearances and those times were glorious. Right now, as the ship revs up to leave port, there is that sun all bright and yellow, spreading its warmth across Brugge.

All too soon it was necessary to go back to the ship.

I am sure that many of you are wondering how goes things with the cell phone? Since Brest it has begun to awaken appropriately when we get into port and function well for us during our touring. DH seems to greatly enjoy being able to pull up our location on "maps" (which actually did keep us from getting lost today as we wandered Brugge), download his email and translate odd assorted posters and text from other languages into English by aiming the phone at them. At times I have begun to wonder if he is enjoying the ports or his phone more?

I will go ahead and send this now - before dinner - and fill in details if necessary tomorrow. This is the last night of the first segment of our Prinsendam cruise and most of the passengers will be disembarking the ship in Amsterdam tomorrow morning. A segment of the crew will also be leaving us as their contracts end.

I'm really enjoying your thread.. You are in Bruge, one of my favorite places in Belgium.. I'm retired from SABENA the (original) Belgian Airline.. Have spent many nights in Brussels & the surrounding cities.. I'm copying your report for my Friends, who worked with me.. We had many lovely times in Belgium, especially when we all met up at the airport & stood by to get home.. Just sent a friend from Brussels, who worked with us, a note about this thread..Haven't talked to him in years.. Hope he gets my msg..

Thanks so much for keeping us interested!!

Interesting reports, thank you.

Hello! I want to tell you how much I am enjoying your posts. I will be boarding the ship as you disembark on June 3 and, as I have not sailed on the Prinsendam before, it has been nice to hear something about her. We will be on for 6 weeks. Some years ago we spent 5 days in Bruges so your description brought that trip back. Thank you for taking the time to post your travels and enjoy the next segment.

Great reports!

Sorry to hear about the rainy, cold weather though. Always puts a damper on things.

Nice to hear that the P'dam was cutting through the waves for you and the swells had little effect ;)

Enjoy Amsterdam!

Day 15 - "Sea Day" in Amsterdam and the start of the second segment of our Voyage

So today we have been in Amsterdam - since we will spend a few days here at the end of our voyage we decided to take a "Sea Day" - it will be 13 days before we get another sea day on this port intensive segment of our cruise.

We slept in a bit this morning to avoid the chaos of the folks who are leaving the ship trying to get their breakfast and get organized by the time they start calling those luggage tag colors. And, we had our first lido breakfast. It was fine but we missed the calm of the dining room.

We then retired to the very empty Explorations/Library lounge where we could enjoy the really comfortable lounge chairs. This led to a delightful morning of crosswords and books.

Along the way, however, we peeked out onto the promenade deck and witnessed an extremely unusual sight. We watched as Lifeboat #3 was lifted off of its davits by a large crane, swung around and set down on the trailer of a truck that was waiting on the dock. A little while later off it went - and later in the day off we went without lifeboat #3. We are not Lifeboat #3 - and reports are that station #3 was not used in today's drill - its passengers assigned to other stations. We understand that lifeboat capacity is such that there should be ample room for everyone in the remaining boats should the unthinkable occur.

We lunched in the main dining room, again to avoid the arriving throngs. In no time at all 3:30 came around and it was time for the hazard drill which all passengers, even those, like us, on a BTB, were required to attend.

Early this morning we were greeted with sunny skies ... by late morning the sky was grey again and it rained on and off for a few hours - then sun again in the afternoon - that is until 3:30 - when the skies rapidly darkened and just as we crossed the threshold to the promenade deck for the drill it started to rain complete with cold gusty winds that blew right at those of us who were on the port side of the vessel. The newly arrived Floridians on board had a bit of a shock as some did not dress appropriately for standing on deck under these conditions. Hopefully they brought enough warm clothes to make it through Denmark and Norway!

After the drill we went up to the Crow's Nest to watch our exit from Amsterdam which is quite beautiful as the boat travels the canals through the urban, industrial and then suburban neighborhoods of the greater Amsterdam area - and, of course, at the end the ship has to go through the locks to return to sea level and proceed with the voyage.

Along the way today, as we saw leaving Brugge last night, were rows and rows of wind mills - some on land and some in the water. Windmills can be done and are being done.

This evening we have spotted what we think is the Rotterdam traveling parallel to us though she is gone now. No announcements or tooting of horns, just quietly passing as "ships in the night" ....

We spent some time this afternoon with the future cruise consultant on board. We have been pricing a couple of cruises. One of those cruises, in particular, we decided to book today. The current offer on board includes the automatic gratuity (or hotel service charges) and an unusually large per person on board credit. Before we selected a cabin and signed the paperwork the cruise consultant offered us another price option - this one did not include the gratuities and had a significantly smaller on board credit attached - AND the initial $100 deposit is non-refundable under any circumstances and cannot be moved to another cruise.

So... I crunched the numbers - starting with the higher fare that had the standard $100 refundable deposit - and from that figure I subtracted the gratuities that are not included in the lower fare and I also subtracted the additional on board credit that is not included in the lower fare ... and guess what ... they are virtually the same price! Looking at it that way why would anyone choose to book with the non-refundable deposit? The gratuities will have to get paid anyway whether you have paid for them in your cruise fare or on your shipboard account - I guess if you do not do any on board spending then it might pay to take the risk of the non-refundable deposit - otherwise it doesn't make sense.

I would not like to see HAL go completely to non-refundable deposits.

Tomorrow we arrive in Hamburg and stay two nights.

Thanks for your update.

Hope you soon hear news of lifeboat #3.

Thank you very much for taking the time to write this blog and share your experiences! I am enjoying them immensely!

Thru the Elba and into Hamburg

This morning it was actually sunny - very sunny. We have been leaving our curtains open at night - last night that was a mistake as the sun was extremely bright as early as 5 this morning.

What that did, actually, was give us a wonderful backdrop for our scenic cruising down the Elbe River on our way into Hamburg. As we cruised down the river it narrowed as we got closer and closer to Hamburg, Europe's third busiest port if I heard the location guide correctly. We went down the river with sail boats and other pleasure craft as well as ferries, tankers, and cargo ships. As the river narrowed, the traffic appeared to get heavier - at times there hardly seemed to be safe distance between our traffic lane going in to the city and the other lane next to us that was going out.

On the banks of the river the landscape changed from bucolic farms with cows and other farm creatures grazing open green fields to suburban homes, urban homes and then industry. And it all glistened in the sunlight.

Maneuvering the ship into its berth at the dock was a masterful act. You have to realize I have trouble parallel parking yet the Prinsendam turned on a dime and eased herself into her berth with precision and the help of a couple of shiny German tug boats.

In town, in the sun, we could actually stand out on deck without our jackets. What a pleasure as compared to the past few days. The weather tomorrow is expected to be similar to today.

The ship did not get into port until after 2 this afternoon and unfortunately DH had a sinus headache this afternoon, so we stayed on board. We will be here all day tomorrow during which we can roam to our heart's content.

We had a nice dinner this evening and a walk on the promenade after - it was a beautiful night. I had better end this now, however, as DH is in possession of the Times Sunday crossword and since we are in port he has cell phone internet ... and he is using it.

Day 17 - Potatoes and Oompahs

We awoke to Hamburg this morning. DH's headache gone but his sinuses tell him that he is, at some level, allergic to this area of Germany. Good that we do not live here.

After breakfast we foraged out into the city. The skies were clear, and the sun was out and the temperatures were balmy. We walked into the city which is really very easy as we are docked in the city center. In the years of our car and train trips through Europe we had avoided Hamburg as our research had indicated that it was an industrial city that had to be largely rebuilt after the war and what we found today essentially supported our original hypothesis. That did not mean that we did not have a very nice day.

We visited the "Mahnmal St. Nikolai" Museum - which is in the basement of an old church that today consists mainly of a tall church spire (which is completely covered by scaffolding) and the museum. We had been told by other passengers yesterday that they had an elevator that went to the top of the spire from which you could get panoramic views of the city (which, yesterday, they were able to do) - today the elevator was closed. I suspect that since today is a week day and the construction restoration work is in full swing that is why it was closed. Yesterday was Sunday.

The museum consisted of World War 2 exhibits, mostly about the fire bombing of the city which was quite extensive. The church spire is the part of this building that survived the war.

Walking into the city from the port there are many new and newer buildings and it appears that the port area is undergoing a modernization as there is construction occurring on all available vacant land. The architecture of some of the new buildings is extremely creative and unusual. Our favorite example of new architecture was the "Elbphilharmonie" building which houses concert halls, a hotel, restaurants and a large viewing platform which was full of folks who watched our ship come into port yesterday. I suspect that if you wish to see it you can google it by name and find pictures.

There are only a few buildings that appear to have survived the war in walking distance from the dock - and these are some old brick warehouse buildings on the canals that are just inland from the river.

After we had walked until we could walk no more, we stopped at a restaurant that was in an old building with windows onto the canal and that specializes in potatoes and beer. I ordered some potato pancakes while DH ordered a potato dessert that came with ice cream and cinnamon covered whipped cream. A nice way to chill out.

Back on the ship they held a German Bierfest around the Lido pool complete with a German dinner, German beer (which we witnessed coming on the ship this afternoon - case after case) and an Oompah Band that gave a concert before and during the Lido meal time.

Now, part of today's entertainment was, I confess, DH. He purchases a lot of his travel clothes from companies that appears to specialize in pockets. Our first night away from home in Florida DH discovered that his new sports jacket still had the pockets sewn shut - so I took out my scissors and started to open them up. Hours later I was still finding and opening up pockets.

Yesterday, when we were on deck watching our transit on the Elbe, he was wearing his cool weather jacket purchased from another pocket company and discovered a few new pockets that he had not realized even existed.

With the recent memories of the chills of Brittany, Normandy and Belgium, today we both overdressed. I had to sneak into a lady's room to remove a layer of clothing partway through our journeys. DH decided to unzip and remove the sleeves of his cool weather jacket as these are removable - and he had much innocent fun deciding which pocket was the one designed to store the sleeves when not in use. Later, after returning to the ship, he had to figure out how to reattach the sleeves and be sure to get the right one on the right arm and the left one on the left arm - turns out that they were labeled.

At times I find myself wondering whether he travels to play with pockets, travel gadgets and cell phones or to actually see the sights.

Early tomorrow morning we leave Hamburg, go back partly up the Elbe River and enter the Kiel Canal.

Have a great cruise.

Crossing the Kiel Canal

This morning the all aboard from Hamburg was at 5:30 am and not very long after that we were reversing our course out of Hamburg on the Elbe and moving towards the Kiel Canal. Now, please, do not think that I am one of those people who are up at the crack of dawn ready to run a marathon - quite the opposite, I try to extend my nightly sleep as long as possible and ease slowly into an awake state - it just happened that I awoke briefly, noticed we were moving, looked at the clock and went back to sleep.

As the general course of this part of our itinerary is northward - the length of our days are increasing. At our present position the sun will rise tomorrow at 5:06 am and will set at 9:32 pm. If we leave the curtains open the daylight begins very early and seeps into every crack and crevice in our cabin providing a rude and untimely awakening.

At breakfast it seemed that the Prinsendam had reached the entrance to the Kiel Canal as the thrusters started to vibrate and the ship stopped moving. We were schedule for our canal briefing by our location guide, KK, at 10 a.m. It didn't take long, however, before the Captain came on the intercom to let us know that the traffic for the canal was very heavy today, and the transits slow due to construction at the exit - so that we had now been assigned 3 pm to begin our 8 hour canal transit. Not particularly good news. They dropped the anchor, turned off the engines and there we sat until close to 2 pm when we were allowed to move into the locks.

DH and I were sitting at the stern windows in the Canaletto portion of the lido having lunch and watching the action. Slowly we entered the lock followed closely by a trusty tug boat. After a very long time, during which we presume the lines were being extended and tied we assumed that the lock would close, after all we seemed to be occupying most of the available real estate - then, amazingly, an empty container ship pulled in behind us so close that we, and the container ship, were virtually rubbing hulls. Who knew there was that much room left in the lock? The lock closed ... and then the Captain announced that due to traffic we would be in the lock for another hour before being allowed to proceed and that is what happened.

Once finally on our way - what a lovely ride - past farms, homes and thick stands of trees we quietly glided through the canal. On deck it was almost quiet except for the rustle of the trees in the wind and the chirping of birds. We could smell the spring flowers and the occasional manure.

For a while there were a couple of folks on bicycles who raced the ship from place to place. At bridges and towns there were always folks who came out to watch and wave. This is our second time in this canal and we found this transit as bucolic and interesting as the last.

During dinner this evening it was still light and we were still in the canal. As we went through towns it seemed like every home on the shore had at least one person out on the balcony watching and waving. In one home they appeared to be having a party - the men wore sport jackets and ties - do you think they did that for us?

Tomorrow we are in Denmark.

Frederecia, Denmark

Morning came, again very early. Later, or as it seemed, much later, during breakfast we were on our way into port. Our entrance was scenic with a graceful suspension bridge connecting two spits of land, green trees and neat Danish villages on each side.

The Prinsendam was welcomed by a red uniformed band, a group of women dressed in old style and a group of men in navy blue uniforms standing in front of three small shiny metal cannons (each only a couple of feet tall).

The band played as the ship was cleared. Groups of school children led by their teachers made their way to the dock to see the cruise ship. A schedule of events for the day was handed to us as we entered the port area. They had set up flea markets, a display of veteran cars, "pop up shops" in Container City by the pier, and the city shops were open and displaying their wares on the sidewalk. The "Citizens 1849" walked the pier all day.

The town itself lies a few hundred meters from the dock and is small enough to walk the whole town if one wished. As we walked into town we passed a group of women in old dress sitting in one of the squares doing their needle work. This town really went all out to welcome the Prinsendam and create a day for us.

DH and I walked into town, over to the Jewish Cemetery which dates back to the 1600's, and up to the town wall. We also walked down many of the streets in this neat, clean Danish town that seemed so happy to have us there.

When it came time to leave, the red uniformed marching band marched from town to the pier and gave another small concert. We were warned by the Captain that at the conclusion of the concert there would be a few loud bangs .... possibly from the tiny cannons? - unfortunately we did not stay to watch.

This is the type of port that makes the Prinsendam unique.

This evening was our first Gala evening of this segment and Captain And Smit offered a toast and welcome aboard this evening in the Showroom.

Just want to reiterate how much we are enjoying your articulate and wonderful review of your Prisendam experience.

Thank you.

Enjoying your blog. I will be on the Prinsendam in July and very much looking forward to getting back on her again - it's been 10 years since I was last on this wonderful ship.

I'm also a longtime t-mobile customer. Tell your DH to make sure he has his roaming turned off and then airplane mode on when you are at sea or in a port that is not covered by t-mobile.

When you arrive in or near a port, turn airplane mode OFF, and then if there is cell service, he should get a text within a few minutes saying something like "Welcome to ABC Country!" and advising him he has unlimited data, etc. At that point, he can then turn his roaming ON. Then he can surf the web and do emails, etc. to his heart's content. Assuming he can find his phone among all of those pockets he has!!!

When you leave a port, turn the roaming back OFF and airplane mode ON.

Wonderful, Wonderful Copenhagen ...

Yesterday we anchored just off the shore of Helsingor, Denmark for a few hours. Helsingor is supposedly Hamlet's town and the Kronborg Castle is supposedly Shakespeare's Elsinore. The castle was in clear view from our anchorage. DH and I have been to the castle on previous voyages (and mostly remember the specters of almost god-like grey haired men biting babies on the ceiling frescoes of the great hall). Since our stop was a tender stop and only a few hours long we chose not to go in but to save our energy for our evening arrival in Copenhagen.

During the same trip that DH and I went to Kronborg Castle we spent a few days in Copenhagen - a few freezing cold, grey, wet days as I recall and we visited Tivoli twice - this was in the 1970's. I loved it. Last time we were through this area in 2010, our hop on hop off bus stopped to show us the entrance to Tivoli but we had no time to get off.

Yesterday was sunny and sixties - much different weather than either of our current visits.

So ... last night we paired up with a couple other folks and taxied from the ship to Denmark's "magic kingdom" for the evening. Legend says that Disney was inspired to create his parks after visiting Tivoli.

We arrived just as the pantomime show at the Peacock theatre was about to start and the show was both charming and fun - full of classic costumes and classic mime. From there we went to have dinner (the dinner we could not afford to have in the 1970's) and had a wonderful meal at one of the park's restaurants complete with "pickled lingonberries".

After dinner we wandered the grounds which appear to us to be a lot more crowded with all sorts of shops, food venues and stalls than our memories recall - and we watched multiple rides that were cleverly woven thru trees and into the crowded venue that take human beings up to great heights, turn them upside down while rotating them horizontally and popping them up and down in oh, so many different ways. Having just eaten we passed.

The rides full of screaming folk passed us and others walking by at a surprisingly close distance. There were, in fact, picnic tables set up that were located exactly below one of the twisty, turning, human flipping roller coasters. One could imagine that a tall person could almost hit their head on the coaster's track.

Do they still have any old wooden roller coasters? We did not see any but we did not walk quite everywhere. The overall experience did not disappoint. We sat down for a few moments on a bench and watched as some ducks wandered by and then, out of nowhere - a peacock came by virtually brushing my feet. One could spend a couple of days there - we only had a few hours.

This morning we actually took a Holland America tour - and it did not disappoint. It was sunny and shirt sleeve weather as we were bused through town to our destination - our guide shared info on the things that we passed including the sort of triangular metallic building with the large smoke stack attached to the outside of the building that is across the water from where our ship docked. It seems that this building is a garbage incinerator and the building has such an unusual shape because it is intended to also serve as a ski slope once that portion of the construction is completed. The incinerator, however, is up and running.

Our destination was a 17th century fishing village. Of course, the village is now considered to be high end real estate and is occupied by wealthy tenants who agree to change nothing about the outside of the historic buildings - thatch roofs must remain thatch, tile roofs must remain tiled - and you can only paint them the same color that they are currently. We strolled through the village over narrow cobble stone walks where cars are not allowed to go. Those who live there must park elsewhere. It was all very quaint, colorful and charming.

At the nearby harbor most of the craft are pleasure craft - the fishing fleets having long ago gone elsewhere.

Our guide shared stories about how the Danish fishing fleet smuggled the Jews of Denmark into Sweden during World War 2, as well as other tales and bits of local history and local geese.

Oh so Oslo

We have been to Oslo a couple of times before. Each time it has been grey, damp and chilly. That was in August.

Today the sun came up at the crack of 4:15 and as of now, at 9:50 pm it is still with us. The weather was in the seventies. Perfect.

DH and I had many words over what to do today. I was in favor of a return trip to Vigeland Park which contains over 200 sculptures by Gustav Vigeland. Today would have been the day - we certainly had the weather.

DH was in favor of visiting the Akershus Castle and Fortress which dates back to 1299, is right at the port, and contains the Norwegian Resistance Museum which did sound interesting. Besides, the port was, once again, full of tall ships and he also wanted to wander among the tall ships.

So ... I gave in and we slept in, had a large late breakfast, and set off for the Fortress. Our first hint of trouble was that the close entrance to the grounds was closed today and we had to walk most of the way around to get in. As we approached we joined what we think was all of Oslo out to see the Fortress (or so we thought) - we were tunneled between wire fencing as we climbed the hill and moved towards the fortification.

Turns out, today was a Medieval Festival at the Fortress, and truly all of Oslo was out enjoying the weather and walking to the festival. It also turns out that the only way to see the Fortress and Museum today would have been to purchase a ticket for the whole festival. The entrance fee, we felt, was a little steep just to see the Fortress and Museum (even considering that we are in one of the most expensive countries in the world) - and quite frankly we did not feel like sharing a medieval festival will all of Oslo. So we passed. Later, once we were back aboard, reports from those who went was that it was unpleasantly crowded and one could get little benefit from the museum under the circumstances - so it turns out that we made a good call (at least for us) except that it was now too late to get out to Vigeland Park.

So ... we spent a few hours walking around Oslo (not as interesting as one might think) and later perusing the tall ships. A bit of a disappointment. Possibly if we had done our research we could have known that this was not the day to do the Fortress.

We left port on time and are now exiting the Oslo Fjord and entering ocean. It is beginning to fog up out there and there is significant wind - but we still have a good ride.

We are currently heading southwest and once around the tip of Norway we will go north as our next port, day after tomorrow, is Alesund.

Day 23 - At Fog

We are actually at sea, however, we have been pretty well fogged in since last night.

There is an ethereal quality to life on board during the fog. The Prinsendam is moving smoothly around the coast of Norway and up towards Alesund, our port for tomorrow. We can softly hear the engines evenly purr as we look out into a soft white oblivion. I very much enjoy the feeling of being in the middle of nowhere - no feet on the ground, nothing quite real - about as far away as possible from the wild political storms of home.

This afternoon we were in the Ocean Bar with its art nouveau crystalline sconces and chandeliers of glass leaves casting light on the wood paneled walls and I could easily imagine myself sipping champagne instead of our hot chocolate aboard an elegant classic liner in another time. I suspect those folks with cabins near the bridge who have to endure the fog horn every two minutes, or those who would rather be on deck in the sun, or those who may not have the faith that I do in sonar and radar might not be so happy today. Me, I feel as though I am in my element.

Late this morning they held the first of two mariner receptions and brunches - the other to be held on our last sea day on June 2. This evening is gala night. Brunch plus formal dinner seemed like too much food for us so we skipped the festivities. I already have two tiles from our first segment - no need to be greedy.

What is the demographic on board like? On the crossing segment the average age was quite high - lots of walkers and wheel chairs belonging to intrepid travelers who will not be denied the pleasures of the sea - as well as a segment of Europeans (mainly Dutch) who snow bird in Florida and were on their way home for the summer. It was a well travelled group.

Since we reached Amsterdam the average age dropped considerably and in addition to many Americans we have a large number of folks from Europe on board who are doing their summer vacations - a very different group.

We sit in the large dining room at dinner not far from the kitchen entrance and even a full week into the second segment we are still entertained by the large number of folks each night who try to exit the dining room by walking into the kitchen. The first couple of nights out of Amsterdam one of the dining room managers stood at the kitchen door and offered to let folks through if they would help with the dishes. We just watch them get embarrassed now. This was a total non-issue for the well traveled crowd on our crossing to Europe.

In case you want to know - Laundry service on board has been very speedy. Clothes return in 24 hours, sometimes in a half day!

I've enjoyed reading about your adventures! I think about Marion Blumenthal Lazan heading to America on a HAL ship after she and her family were freed by Russian soldiers from a train headed to yet another concentration camp.

Day 24 - Alesund - Yikes! 28 days coming up fast!

They may have to drag me off the ship like that airline passenger ... it is really mellow here.

Today it was about 50 degrees, plus or minus, a bit of wind - partly cloudy with quite a bit of sun in the afternoon.

I also discovered (well, not this morning but recently) that on our last trip we went to Ny Alesund, not Alesund - and they are different places. Ny Alesund is an island above the arctic circle that is mainly a research station where we had a fascinating day in 2010. Alesund is considerably south of there and is a Norwegian village.

We actually did a shore excursion today - we traveled out to the Islands of Giskey and Godoy - which are pronounced very differently by the Norwegians - the "g" is either silent or pronounced very differently - if I had to identify my tour by hearing the name I could not have done so.

The tour started with the obligatory trip up Mount Aksla which can be reached by car (or bus) or you can walk up the 400 and some steps on a path that sharply switches forward and back from the city. We were on a bus which is only marginally better than walking because the road is very narrow - not wide enough for two buses to pass each other going in opposite directions. Occasionally the road widens so vehicles can pass each other - but that depends upon there not being any stupid tourists who think the extra lane is for them to park their car and take a scenic view. We had one such incident on our way up and I will not go into detail about what the buses had to do (going in opposite directions) to get by the parked car and each other - we'll just call it "bus calisthenics".

It should be noted that Mount Askla was occupied by the Germans during World War 2 and was closed to the locals during those five years. Much of the road we traveled was originally built by the Germans and several German bunkers remain visible along the roadside on the way to the Mountain's peak.

The view from the mountain top overlooking the town and the mountains is just spectacular and it is definitely worth the trip.

From there we went to the islands - Alesund, it seems, is composed of several islands that are connected by bridges, ferries and tunnels. Today we went through the tunnels that pass under the ocean between islands. Kind of like being on a bus in the subway.

The islands themselves are also beautiful - green craggy fields surrounded by mountains and mists and the ocean - we had one stop at an old lighthouse and I was most impressed by the silence - not even the sound of wind. We could easily hear each other whisper.

Tomorrow the sun will "rise" at about 4 am and will "set" at about 11 pm - however I am a bit reserved about actually calling it sunrise and sunset because the five hours in between are not particularly dark - more like early twilight. I wonder if we will see the northern lights...

We left Alesund this afternoon headed for Flam, listed about 100 miles away. Five hours later we are still about 100 miles away - that is because to get to Flam we have to go out through the Fjords to the open ocean, follow the coast line around to the Sognefjord and then go inland again towards the village of Flam.

You are in for a treat tomorrow.

Thank you so much for taking us along on this cruise, arzz. We love your colorful and descriptive writing.

We also remember Ny Alesund in 2010. And now we look forward to experiencing Alesund in August.

Barbara

So ... we spent a few hours walking around Oslo (not as interesting as one might think) and later perusing the tall ships. A bit of a disappointment. Possibly if we had done our research we could have known that this was not the day to do the Fortress.

.

Agree on Oslo. Been their twice and both times found the city itself the least of the Scandinavian capitals. Vigeland is interesting, but very strange I think. I might visit a second time, but I'm not sure...

Flam

I awoke briefly at 4 am and we were cruising in the Fjords. At 8 am when I really woke up and looked out - there we were, nestled in the narrow waterway between two tall walls of craggy green covered mountains with water falls cascading down to the ocean and snow covered peaks hiding behind shorter, closer mountain peaks - and yeah, there were those low lying wispy white clouds that just hung above the water and below the peaks. Sigh ...

Today we were tendering in to Flam along with the folks from the Deutschland. Occupying the one cruise ship dock here was the Rotterdam. And, oh yeah, it was about 50 degrees and raining steadily. I understand that rain and low clouds add a certain drama to this incredible terrain, but it was awful wet and cold and I kept remembering how not waterproof my raincoat has become and how thoroughly chilled through I was that rainy day in Brest.

We have been to Flam before. In 2010 the Prinsendam overnighted in Bergen and we, and friends, got up at the crack of dawn to make the trek to Flam and take the Flam train. As I recall it was a beautiful, sunny day and though the round trip took us about 12 hours (taxi to train station in Bergen, Train from Bergen to Myrdal (2 hours) - Flam train from Myrdal to Flam - one hour - and the rest of the time on the slow ferry back to Bergen via the Sognefjord - we were fjorded out by the time we arrived back on the Prinsendam) yet a good time was had by all.

And today - in 2017 - here we were - actually in Flam without all the todo! Who knew you could take a cruise ship that actually went all the way to Flam without all the rigamarole ... And it was cold and rainy. I confess that we stayed on board the Prinsendam today and watched the waterfalls increase in number and get bigger and bigger.

And ... wouldn't you know it ... last tender in from Flam was at 5:30 - and at 5:00 it stopped raining and the sun came out.

Well, we had a nice cruise thru the Sognefjord on our way to Bergen. According to the captain we will not leave the fjords until about 2 am - and shortly thereafter we will enter the fjords that take us in to Bergen.