Italy: all things food and wine-related

[slidergirl]

I received my newsletter from Katie Parla this morning.  She has a few articles published this month.  She also has one on the eater.com website on her "38 essential restaurants in Rome".  Some we know and recommend frequently, some may give others some ideas for someplace different to eat.  Katie is the one who turned me onto Armandos and Roscioli and Cassaleto back in the day when chowhound was still around and she would personally answer questions there (before she became a big name in the foodie business).   You can also browse her website and get ideas (her name.com).  Thought i'd drop a note on this here.  Anyway, eater is a good resource for ideas to eat just about anywhere in Europe.  

[purduemom1]

Wow, glad you mentioned this thread on the other thread. I had no idea it existed. Thanks to cruisemom42 for starting it. May take me a little while to catch up!

[vplsh]

Wow! Thanks for this amazing thread. It’ll take me a while to get through all the info before I’ll know what to ask. We are doing a back to back on odyssey out of Rome next October and are looking to stay in Rome a couple of nights before. We love food and wine tours if anyone has any recommendations. 

[goldengatecruisers]

As promised...

I returned home from my cruise last evening and wanted to report back on our short stay in Rome.  Again, thank you to the contributors of this thread who assisted and made great suggestions.  The Albergo del Senato is a wonderful small hotel and we would definitely return.  What a shame we only had a short stay in Rome before continuing on our travels.  We stayed in room 204 which faces the Pantheon and has a small, but usable, balcony.  The room was compact but beautifully furnished with lovely bathroom amenities. We were very comfortable and this suited us on this particular trip as we were not unpacking our cases but rather working out of smaller bags for our Rome stay.  If I was planning a longer time in Rome and needing to open cases and settle in then I would opt for one of the larger rooms and the hotel could assist with making a room selection.  Although it was not an issue for me but it may be for some, the noise from the square continues late into the night so if you are a sensitive sleeper this room facing the Pantheon may not be the most suitable.  The rooftop bar is the quintessential Rome roof top bar that you would come to expect from a delightful hotel such as this in the center of the city.  How wonderful it is to sit and enjoy drinks listening to the ringing bells.  Pure magic.  We walked about 10 miles a day visiting all of our favorite spots from previous visits to Rome and fell in love with the city all over again.  Aperol spritz and antipasto on Piazza Navona is something we thoroughly enjoy doing and I think it is one of the best places to people watch.  On the go we grabbed a delicious prosciutto and cheese sandwich at L' Antica Salumeria across the square from the hotel - make sure you ask for the thin rustic bread (sorry, can't remember the name of it but I am sure one of you can chime in!).  I connected with the hotel ahead of our stay and they assisted in booking us at Osteria del Sostegno which was divine.  We selected a wonderful Amarone and then continued to stuff our faces course by course.  Sensational pasta dishes followed by grilled veal and vegetable sides of chick peas w/ rosemary and chili and a sautéed spinach dish.   The restaurant is a short stroll from the hotel and should definitely be on your 'go to' list the next time you are in Rome.

 

Photo attached is Piazza Navona and the short video is taking from our balcony at the Albergo del Senato

 

Ashley

Edited October 6, 2022 by goldengatecruisers

[kb4683]

1 hour ago, goldengatecruisers said:

As promised...

I returned home from my cruise last evening and wanted to report back on our short stay in Rome.  Again, thank you to the contributors of this thread who assisted and made great suggestions.  The Albergo del Senato is a wonderful small hotel and we would definitely return.  What a shame we only had a short stay in Rome before continuing on our travels.  We stayed in room 204 which faces the Pantheon and has a small, but usable, balcony.  The room was compact but beautifully furnished with lovely bathroom amenities. We were very comfortable and this suited us on this particular trip as we were not unpacking our cases but rather working out of smaller bags for our Rome stay.  If I was planning a longer time in Rome and needing to open cases and settle in then I would opt for one of the larger rooms and the hotel could assist with making a room selection.  Although it was not an issue for me but it may be for some, the noise from the square continues late into the night so if you are a sensitive sleeper this room facing the Pantheon may not be the most suitable.  The rooftop bar is the quintessential Rome roof top bar that you would come to expect from a delightful hotel such as this in the center of the city.  How wonderful it is to sit and enjoy drinks listening to the ringing bells.  Pure magic.  We walked about 10 miles a day visiting all of our favorite spots from previous visits to Rome and fell in love with the city all over again.  Aperol spritz and antipasto on Piazza Navona is something we thoroughly enjoy doing and I think it is one of the best places to people watch.  On the go we grabbed a delicious prosciutto and cheese sandwich at L' Antica Salumeria across the square from the hotel - make sure you ask for the thin rustic bread (sorry, can't remember the name of it but I am sure one of you can chime in!).  I connected with the hotel ahead of our stay and they assisted in booking us at Osteria del Sostegno which was divine.  We selected a wonderful Amarone and then continued to stuff our faces course by course.  Sensational pasta dishes followed by grilled veal and vegetable sides of chick peas w/ rosemary and chili and a sautéed spinach dish.   The restaurant is a short stroll from the hotel and should definitely be on your 'go to' list the next time you are in Rome.

 

Photo attached is Piazza Navona and the short video is taking from our balcony at the Albergo del Senato

 

Ashley

 

 

Thank you for this review!  Only 38 days till we will be checking into Albergo del Senato -- can't wait to be back in Rome (sipping on an Aperol Spritz while munching on antipasto and people-watching 👀)!

[slidergirl]

Thanks for coming back and giving a review!   

One weird question: There was a sinkhole that opened up in front of the Antico Salumeria in 2020.  it ended up showing some ancient ruins.  What is there now?  

 

Sitting at an outdoor table on any piazza, drinking aperol spritz or nice little wine and noshing is one of ny favorite activities anywhere in italy!

[goldengatecruisers]

Slidergirl, that is an interesting piece of information regarding the sink hole.  Thanks for sharing for those of us who were unaware of this incident.  I did a quick internet search and was able to read up on it and see images.  I did not notice anything out of the ordinary with regards to evidence of a sink hole or exposed ruins.   I presume it has all been repaired and covered over.   I wonder what happened to the seven exposed travertine slabs, according to the article I read, which dated back to somewhere between 27 and 25 B.C.?

[cleobella]

Hi Golden Gate,

Glad you like the Albergo del Senato, we are headed there soon.  Just wondering where in Piazza Navona you had the antipasto?  Also, in your travels did you try a good Pizza place with authentic Italian Pizza?

Thanks!

[cleobella]

Also, any good casual places near Piazza Navona or Albergo del Senato that do a nice Caprese Salad?

[goldengatecruisers]

cleobella...  We had our antipasto at Santapupa Trattoria Romana, Piazza Navona 40.   It is situated in the north west corner next to the Neptune fountain.   We did not eat pizza in Rome on this visit but I am sure others here will have plenty of recommendations for you.  Have a fabulous upcoming trip!

 

Ashley

[cleobella]

Thanks Ashley!

[slidergirl]

Cleobella - there are soo many different styles of pizza in Italy, just like in the US and Canada (happy Thanksgiving today!).  Pizza that I've had in Rome and enjoy;

 

B onci Pizzarium.  across the street from the Ciprio metro station.  Known as one of the best pizzas in Rome.  it is a rectangular pie and sold by weight of the size of the slice you show them.  The pizza there have a wide variety of toppings (don't expect sausage & pepperoni). Always busy, always crowded.

 

Antico Forno Roscioli.  in the Campo di Fiore area.  Similar to the pizza style at Pizzarium.  The Roscioli family bakes the bread for most of the high-end restaurants in Rome. 

 

Emma Pizzeria.  in the Campo di Fiore area.  They get their flour specially mixed by the Roscioli family. Round, pizza done in wood-burning ovens.  A large selection of topping combinations.  It's a moderate-range dining spot, reservations needed.  Has other things besides pizza. 

 

All 3 places have websites which you can look at. 

[cleobella]

Awesome Slidergirl! I'll look them up!

[nini]

On 4/4/2022 at 5:37 PM, Host Bonjour said:

 

 

 

I enjoy a nice Zin too, they're not as common in most stores and a bit more expensive, but a nice treat when the opportunity comes around. 🙂

 

 

Phew! I just completed reading all of the posts.

I wanted to mention that my favorite red wine is an Old Vine Zinfandel. When not in Italy (this is a Primitivo wine), I enjoy an inexpensive wine called "OZV: and this is from Lodi, California. We live on the West Coast so it is easily obtained at our grocery stores, Trader Joes, etc.

 

"In general, California winemakers allow Zinfandel to ripen with higher sugar levels and alcohol content giving the wine a more smooth and sweet style. On the other hand, Primitivo ripens under the hot Italian sun, creating the heartier, less fruity and less sweet version of its California counterpart.

Although basically formed from the same grape, the names Primitivo and Zinfandel are not to be used interchangeably. Despite US labeling laws, Italian winemakers often still use the name Zinfandel on their Italian Primitivo wines that are sold in the US."

[nini]

On 5/10/2022 at 10:30 AM, slidergirl said:

I love risotto!  I had my first Risotto Milanese at a place we stayed at the night before our flight home (Villa Malpensa)  That and a nice glass of Brunello and I was in heaven.  When I cook for a girls' weekend, I will always make risotto - ok for my friend with celiac.  I  like that it is so versatile - you can add in just about anything.  

 

Good on you for booking that flight!!!  I'm not a truffle fan.  I'll eat it if it's on my food, but it's just a little bit too earthy for me.  

 

 I LOVE mushroom risotto and have made it from scratch on the stove method. I have discovered a fantastic Instant pot recipe that is great.

[NCteacherlovescruising]

On 8/29/2022 at 3:52 PM, marazul said:

There are three Roscioli establishments: a bakery, a pastry shop and a restaurant.

The one you want is Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina.  It is excellent and very near Campo di Fiori.

https://www.salumeriaroscioli.com/en/home-english/

It is consistently named as one of the best trattorie in Rome.  

 

Another one is Armando al Pantheon, between Piazza Navona and Piazza della Rotonda (Pantheon).

https://www.armandoalpantheon.it/en/

I may have a hard time eating at the first place, not sure. However, the second looks really good!  
 

On 8/29/2022 at 5:21 PM, marazul said:

Go to Pizzarium Bonci near the museum. You can have wonderful pizza by the slice.  Restaurants don't really serve dinner at 5.

https://www.bonci.it/

 

 

What time do they start serving dinner?

[NCteacherlovescruising]

On 10/11/2022 at 8:37 PM, slidergirl said:

Cleobella - there are soo many different styles of pizza in Italy, just like in the US and Canada (happy Thanksgiving today!).  Pizza that I've had in Rome and enjoy;

 

B onci Pizzarium.  across the street from the Ciprio metro station.  Known as one of the best pizzas in Rome.  it is a rectangular pie and sold by weight of the size of the slice you show them.  The pizza there have a wide variety of toppings (don't expect sausage & pepperoni). Always busy, always crowded.

 

Antico Forno Roscioli.  in the Campo di Fiore area.  Similar to the pizza style at Pizzarium.  The Roscioli family bakes the bread for most of the high-end restaurants in Rome. 

 

Emma Pizzeria.  in the Campo di Fiore area.  They get their flour specially mixed by the Roscioli family. Round, pizza done in wood-burning ovens.  A large selection of topping combinations.  It's a moderate-range dining spot, reservations needed.  Has other things besides pizza. 

 

All 3 places have websites which you can look at. 

If you can’t get pepperoni and sausage (that or meat lovers is my go to!), what should someone that likes meat on their pizza order? 

[marazul]

28 minutes ago, NCteacherlovescruising said:

I may have a hard time eating at the first place, not sure. However, the second looks really good!  
 

 

What time do they start serving dinner?

Pizzarium Bonci is a takeout place. It's open all day. The serve pizza by the slice. You take a number near the door and wait for it to come up.  You pick the pizzas you want at the counter and can take them to a table.  Don't expect any of the usual US combinations (such as "meat lovers") either here or in most other places. 

 

It isn't clear why you would have a hard time eating at Roscioli. Do you mean one of the three Rosciolis or just at the Salumeria?  I hope you give it a try. It is a woderful restaurant. It is best to reserve well ahead of time if you do go. 

[cruisemom42]

1 hour ago, NCteacherlovescruising said:

If you can’t get pepperoni and sausage (that or meat lovers is my go to!), what should someone that likes meat on their pizza order? 

 

Look for these toppings:

 

Salamino: Pepperoni.
Prosciutto Cotto: Cooked Ham.
Prosciutto Crudo: Raw Ham.
Salsiccia: Sausage.
Pancetta: Cured Pork (somewhat like bacon).
Porchetta: Pork.

 

If you order "pepperoni" you will get peppers. 😄

Edited December 29, 2022 by cruisemom42

[cruisemom42]

1 hour ago, NCteacherlovescruising said:

 

What time do they start serving dinner?

 

Most decent sit-down restaurants do not open until 7:00 or 7:30 pm.  You can get things like panini or pizza at a bar (not the same thing as we think of as a "bar" in the US, it is a place to get coffees, drinks, and light snacks).  Or look for a salumeria, a store something like a deli with meats and cheeses and bread, they will often make a sandwich for you.

 

 

Edited December 29, 2022 by cruisemom42

[NCteacherlovescruising]

14 hours ago, marazul said:

Pizzarium Bonci is a takeout place. It's open all day. The serve pizza by the slice. You take a number near the door and wait for it to come up.  You pick the pizzas you want at the counter and can take them to a table.  Don't expect any of the usual US combinations (such as "meat lovers") either here or in most other places. 

 

It isn't clear why you would have a hard time eating at Roscioli. Do you mean one of the three Rosciolis or just at the Salumeria?  I hope you give it a try. It is a woderful restaurant. It is best to reserve well ahead of time if you do go. 

 

The restaurant.  I looked at their menu and didn't see anything I'd normally order.  The second restaurant had things more my taste, like spaghetti carbonara.  I don't eat mushrooms, anchovies, or raw meat.  I don't recall what else was in their dishes I don't care for.  My husband, on the other hand, eats everything!  How far in advance should we reserve?  

 

13 hours ago, cruisemom42 said:

 

Look for these toppings:

 

Salamino: Pepperoni.
Prosciutto Cotto: Cooked Ham.
Prosciutto Crudo: Raw Ham.
Salsiccia: Sausage.
Pancetta: Cured Pork (somewhat like bacon).
Porchetta: Pork.

 

If you order "pepperoni" you will get peppers. 😄

 

Thank you!  Will they have English translations or should I screenshot this?  

 

By the way, where do you live?  I see you either live there or have spend quite a bit of time there.  

 

13 hours ago, cruisemom42 said:

 

Most decent sit-down restaurants do not open until 7:00 or 7:30 pm.  You can get things like panini or pizza at a bar (not the same thing as we think of as a "bar" in the US, it is a place to get coffees, drinks, and light snacks).  Or look for a salumeria, a store something like a deli with meats and cheeses and bread, they will often make a sandwich for you.

 

 

That's not that late.  We normally eat around 6:30, but in bed by 9:30.  lol  I'm sure we'll adjust our schedules while on vacation.  

Edited December 29, 2022 by NCteacherlovescruising

[slidergirl]

26 minutes ago, NCteacherlovescruising said:

 

The restaurant.  I looked at their menu and didn't see anything I'd normally order.  The second restaurant had things more my taste, like spaghetti carbonara.  I don't eat mushrooms, anchovies, or raw meat.  I don't recall what else was in their dishes I don't care for.  My husband, on the other hand, eats everything!  How far in advance should we reserve?  

 

 

Thank you!  Will they have English translations or should I screenshot this?  

 

By the way, where do you live?  I see you either live there or have spend quite a bit of time there.  

 

That's not that late.  We normally eat around 6:30, but in bed by 9:30.  lol  I'm sure we'll adjust our schedules while on vacation.  

I'm a little confused by your comment that you didn't see much that you'd eat at Roscioli.  They have carbonara, which you mentioned you like.  As a meat lover, you'd really like the polpette, which are nice big meatballs, made with beef, pork, and veal.  I don't normally eat red meat, but I LOVED them.  It sounds like you got overwhelmed by the appetizers before you got to the pastas and meats.  

[marazul]

1 hour ago, NCteacherlovescruising said:

The restaurant.  I looked at their menu and didn't see anything I'd normally order. 

 

How far in advance should we reserve?  

 

Reserve as soon as possible.  If you can, get a table in the wine cellar (cantina).  Make sure you click on the time and slide down to see all availability for pranzo (lunch) and cena (dinner). Same in the next page for tables in the cantina or in the deli section.  If you scroll down that page you will see photos of the different areas. Right now the reservations are open trough June, but they fill up quickly.  

https://www.salumeriaroscioli.com/en/book-old/

 

And yes, you will find many things on the menu that you don't normally find in Charlotte (I go there often 😁), but when in Rome . . .  eat like the Romans do.  You might want to try Guancia di Manzo (the technique is similar to braised short ribs, but the beef cheek is far better).  And for pasta, either the amatriciana or the carbonara, both made the Roman way.

 

BTW -  save Bonci for lunch if you visit the Vatican Museum.  It is a couple of blocks away.  Otherwise, it is too far from anything else in Rome.

 

[NCteacherlovescruising]

2 hours ago, slidergirl said:

I'm a little confused by your comment that you didn't see much that you'd eat at Roscioli.  They have carbonara, which you mentioned you like.  As a meat lover, you'd really like the polpette, which are nice big meatballs, made with beef, pork, and veal.  I don't normally eat red meat, but I LOVED them.  It sounds like you got overwhelmed by the appetizers before you got to the pastas and meats.  

The carbonara had something called cheek pork or something like that. I don’t like meatballs or meatloaf’s.  If I have meat in pasta, I usually get Italian sausage or chicken, or sometimes bolognese. 
 

55 minutes ago, marazul said:

Reserve as soon as possible.  If you can, get a table in the wine cellar (cantina).  Make sure you click on the time and slide down to see all availability for pranzo (lunch) and cena (dinner). Same in the next page for tables in the cantina or in the deli section.  If you scroll down that page you will see photos of the different areas. Right now the reservations are open trough June, but they fill up quickly.  

https://www.salumeriaroscioli.com/en/book-old/

 

And yes, you will find many things on the menu that you don't normally find in Charlotte (I go there often 😁), but when in Rome . . .  eat like the Romans do.  You might want to try Guancia di Manzo (the technique is similar to braised short ribs, but the beef cheek is far better).  And for pasta, either the amatriciana or the carbonara, both made the Roman way.

 

BTW -  save Bonci for lunch if you visit the Vatican Museum.  It is a couple of blocks away.  Otherwise, it is too far from anything else in Rome.

 

Our cruise is over a year out, but I will start making reservations when possible. 
 

Is amatriciama similar to our red sauces?  How does the Roman way differ?

 

I’m thinking of booking a private tour to the Vatican and Sistine Chapel.  We have a lunch break but no idea where she will take us. 

[cruisemom42]

3 hours ago, NCteacherlovescruising said:

Thank you!  Will they have English translations or should I screenshot this?  

 

By the way, where do you live?  I see you either live there or have spend quite a bit of time there.

 

I would go on the assumption that they will not have translations in pizzerias. Many sit-down restaurants in Rome offer an English menu. It used to be the mark of a touristy place, but it is increasingly common in the city center.

 

I live in the US but have traveled in Italy quite a bit, as well as studying Italian.