Italy: all things food and wine-related

[marazul]

1 hour ago, NCteacherlovescruising said:

The carbonara had something called cheek pork or something like that. I don’t like meatballs or meatloaf’s.  If I have meat in pasta, I usually get Italian sausage or chicken, or sometimes bolognese. 
 

Our cruise is over a year out, but I will start making reservations when possible. 
 

Is amatriciama similar to our red sauces?  How does the Roman way differ?

 

I’m thinking of booking a private tour to the Vatican and Sistine Chapel.  We have a lunch break but no idea where she will take us. 

Beef or pork cheek are the cheeks (guancia) or jowls of the animal.  It is wonderful braised or in sauces.  If it is cured, it is called guanciale and it is used in pasta dishes, like carbonara.  You will not see the braised guancia dishes in the US except for a very few, authentic Italian restaurants.  Maybe the ones in Arthur Avenue in the Bronx.  Certainly not in NC, at least not on regular basis.  Guanciale is becoming more common in the more authentic restaurants.  

https://www.lacucinaitaliana.com/glossary/guanciale

 

Amatriciana and carbonara in Italy are made the way they were invented, with regional and individual variations.  Most US restaurants serve standardized recipes that are amatriciana or carbonara in name only.  If you like Italian food, you are in for a great and wonderful surprise when you have the real thing.  You might enjoy reading Katie Parla's blog. https://katieparla.com/.  Also, look up recipes in La Cucina Italiana, an Italian food magazine now published in English.  

https://www.lacucinaitaliana.com/  

 

Do book a private tour to the Vatican museums.  It is best to do it directly on their website. https://tickets.museivaticani.va/home  Their guides are the best and you don't have to pay extra for a tour company.

 

There are a lot of threads on this board about Vatican tickets.  For example:

 

If you do your own tickets, you can have an early morning tour and walk to Bonci's for lunch.  It opens at 11 am.  There are a lot of taxis by the Vatican Museum entrance to get back to your next stop.  They are very reasonable.  It should be around 10 euros for a ride to/from central Rome.

Edited December 29, 2022 by marazul

[NCteacherlovescruising]

36 minutes ago, cruisemom42 said:

 

I would go on the assumption that they will not have translations in pizzerias. Many sit-down restaurants in Rome offer an English menu. It used to be the mark of a touristy place, but it is increasingly common in the city center.

 

I live in the US but have traveled in Italy quite a bit, as well as studying Italian.

 

I will screenshot that then.  It's good to know many restaurants will offer menus in English.

 

You have been a great recourse!  Now I see why.  

 

31 minutes ago, marazul said:

Beef or pork cheek are the cheeks (guancia) or jowls of the animal.  It is wonderful braised or in sauces.  If it is cured, it is called guanciale and it is used in pasta dishes, like carbonara.  You will not see the braised guancia dishes in the US except for a very few, authentic Italian restaurants.  Maybe the ones in Arthur Avenue in the Bronx.  Certainly not in NC, at least not on regular basis.  Guanciale is becoming more common in the more authentic restaurants.  

https://www.lacucinaitaliana.com/glossary/guanciale

 

Amatriciana and carbonara in Italy are made the way they were invented, with regional and individual variations.  Most US restaurants serve standardized recipes that are amatriciana or carbonara in name only.  If you like Italian food, you are in for a great and wonderful surprise when you have the real thing.  You might enjoy reading Katie Parla's blog. https://katieparla.com/.  Also, look up recipes in La Cucina Italiana, an Italian food magazine now published in English.  

https://www.lacucinaitaliana.com/  

 

Do book a private tour to the Vatican museums.  It is best to do it directly on their website. https://tickets.museivaticani.va/home  Their guides are the best and you don't have to pay extra for a tour company.

 

There are a lot of threads on this board about Vatican tickets.  For example:

 

If you do your own tickets, you can have an early morning tour and walk to Bonci's for lunch.  It opens at 11 am.  There are a lot of taxis by the Vatican Museum entrance to get back to your next stop.  They are very reasonable.  It should be around 10 euros for a ride to/from central Rome.

 

I love Italian food so I'm looking forward to experiencing the real thing!!  Thanks for the blog suggestion and the info on touring the Vatican.

Edited December 29, 2022 by NCteacherlovescruising
typo

[slidergirl]

23 hours ago, NCteacherlovescruising said:

 

I will screenshot that then.  It's good to know many restaurants will offer menus in English.

 

You have been a great recourse!  Now I see why.  

 

 

I love Italian food so I'm looking forward to experiencing the real thing!!  Thanks for the blog suggestion and the info on touring the Vatican.

At Roscioli, if you like bacon, you'd like guanciale!  It's just like small cut-up pieces of bacon.  Sooo yummy.  I was hoping you like meatballs, but alas.

 

I agree with checking out Katie Parla's blog.   I got to know Katie back in the day when we all chatted to each other on Chowhound (RIP).  She is the one who turned me onto Roscioli.  

Another place to look at the menu is Da Cesare al Casaletto.  It is an easy #8 tram ride to the end of the line, which is Casaletto.  Down a block.  Katie recommended this one to me, too.  Their fried gnocchi in cacio e pepe is freakin' amazing.  Good Carbonara, too.  I'd say the meatrolls are good, but you don't like meatballs...

If you like roast pork, you have to try Porchetta.  Panifico Bonci (same guy as Pizzarium but different location) makes awesome porchetta and puts it in a sandwich. 

 

Remember - in a restaurant, you don't have to get something from every course.  If you just want pasta, order the pasta.

[marazul]

I just read that Roscioli is opening a restaurant in New York City.  It will be modeled after the Salumeria and it will be in SoHo.  Opening is planned for June.

 

 https://www.gamberorosso.it/notizie/notizie-ristoranti/roscioli-apre-a-new-york-e-la-prima-insegna-fuori-dallitalia/?utm_term=53039+-+Roscioli+apre+a+New+York%3A+è+la+prima+insegna+fuori+dall'Italia&utm_campaign=NL+GIORNALIERA+ITA&utm_medium=email&utm_source=MagNews&utm_content=6689+-+2903+(2023-01-11)

[slidergirl]

1 hour ago, marazul said:

I just read that Roscioli is opening a restaurant in New York City.  It will be modeled after the Salumeria and it will be in SoHo.  Opening is planned for June.

 

 https://www.gamberorosso.it/notizie/notizie-ristoranti/roscioli-apre-a-new-york-e-la-prima-insegna-fuori-dallitalia/?utm_term=53039+-+Roscioli+apre+a+New+York%3A+è+la+prima+insegna+fuori+dall'Italia&utm_campaign=NL+GIORNALIERA+ITA&utm_medium=email&utm_source=MagNews&utm_content=6689+-+2903+(2023-01-11)

I saw that, too!  

 

[KansasTexan]

Just read through this entire thread and I'm blown away. And hungry! I'm also kind of kicking myself for booking a cruise and not just figuring out a way to stay at least a week in Italy. Florence (Livorno) will be a 2 day stop so I think that gives me the best opportunity to enjoy local food. I'm hoping to be able to book an excursion with just a few people to experience cooking/wine. Not always easy to find a ticket for 1 but I'm going to try. Thanks for all the info!

[Wishing on a star]

Wow!   Tons of good insight!

I see here a (Pasta) restaurant not far from the Pantheon that I have also seen recommended.

Pasta e Vino Osteria  -   I wonder if any of you experts here could look at their listing here, or on other food websites, and give your initial thoughts.   I thought the photos looked pretty good!

I should be ashamed to say that I am an unexperienced 'American'! 

We are big planners, and could probably get reservations at Armando al Pantheon.

But, I was thinking that we like to be more casual and less 'scheduled'.

 

We are thinking of staying near Trevi and the Spanish steps

I am interested in Colline Emiliane!  Maybe try dishes other than the gnocchi.   They seem to have great ravioli and pasta and heartier meat and gravy/sauce dishes with potatoes.

[cruisemom42]

15 minutes ago, Wishing on a star said:

We are thinking of staying near Trevi and the Spanish steps

I am interested in Colline Emiliane!  Maybe try dishes other than the gnocchi.   They seem to have great ravioli and pasta and heartier meat and gravy/sauce dishes with potatoes.

 

I loved Colline Emiliane. Keep in mind their dishes are not traditionally Roman but from another region. (A very foodie region!)

 

I was just looking at my phone and realized I had a couple of photos from when I dined there. The first shows all the fresh "made in house" egg pasta that is their specialty and claim to fame.

 

 

 

The restaurant is small; not much bigger than Armando al Pantheon (although I think there may have been a back room I didn't see). Everyone with reservations was waiting about for the doors to open, and within 15-20 minutes all the seats were full.

 

[tj_shopper]

Thank you so much for this thread.  I found so many useful information, especially the restaurants.  There are 32 of us (family and friends) on Royal Caribbean's Enchantment of the Seas starting off in Rome and ending in Athens this May 2023.  We are going to spend 3 full days in Rome; well actually 2 and taking a day trip to Florence on the 3rd day before the cruise.

 

Based on all the reviews and write up about Roscioli Salumeria Con Cucina, we've made lunch plans here for our first day in the wine cellar - I only made reservations for my immediate family - 14 of us!

 

Now to wait until April to book dinner at Armando al Pantheon!  They only allow booking month by month.

[tj_shopper]

On 2/2/2023 at 2:40 PM, cruisemom42 said:

 

I loved Colline Emiliane. Keep in mind their dishes are not traditionally Roman but from another region. (A very foodie region!)

 

I was just looking at my phone and realized I had a couple of photos from when I dined there. The first shows all the fresh "made in house" egg pasta that is their specialty and claim to fame.

 

 

 

The restaurant is small; not much bigger than Armando al Pantheon (although I think there may have been a back room I didn't see). Everyone with reservations was waiting about for the doors to open, and within 15-20 minutes all the seats were full.

 

Another restaurant I will try to book for our trip in May.  I went on the website but did not see a place to make reservations on line.  Does anyone know if I can do that or do I need to call and make reservations?

 

 

Edited February 22, 2023 by tj_shopper

[marazul]

43 minutes ago, tj_shopper said:

Another restaurant I will try to book for our trip in May.  I went on the website but did not see a place to make reservations on line.  Does anyone know if I can do that or do I need to call and make reservations?

 

 

You need to call and reserve. Or ask your hotel concierge to do it. That could work.

[tj_shopper]

1 hour ago, marazul said:

You need to call and reserve. Or ask your hotel concierge to do it. That could work.

Thank you.  We are at an Airbnb so we will have to call to make the reservations.

[slidergirl]

I have an owner at my Lodge who also owns a villa in Tuscany.  When she and her DH go over (they just left again), they spend 2 nights at the St. Regis (they are friends with the GM).  We were talking restaurants  and how I didn't find anything when I stayed at the Westin.  She told me they found a place this past summer called "Crazy Pizza".  She said they thought it was a tourist joint by the name, but they were surprised that it was a good place.  Not excellent, but definitely a place to go to in the area.  Good wine list apparently (my owner and DH are major wine lovers).  

Just putting this out there if you are staying up in the Via Veneto area and want a bite.

[maggietaggie]

I thank this post for all the great dining recommendations for Rome.  All reservations made pending one.  Still need some recommendations for Florence so please recommend!!  Thanks

[marazul]

4 hours ago, maggietaggie said:

I thank this post for all the great dining recommendations for Rome.  All reservations made pending one.  Still need some recommendations for Florence so please recommend!!  Thanks

Trattoria Camillo. A real classic.

[slidergirl]

Katie Parla, who I've known via emails and old Chowhound communication since 2007, just updated her "The 38 Essential Rome Restaurants" for Eater.   Also cruise around her own website (her name) for more goodies.  Alas, I cannot recommend any of her food or historic tours since everytime I get to Rome she is off somewhere!!   She is the one who turned me onto Roscioli, Armando al Pantheon and Casalleto al Cesare back when there weren't all this web stuff around.  

If nothing else, reading her stuff will get you salivating and thinking of a plethora of good things eating & drinking!!

[slidergirl]

On 3/29/2023 at 10:18 AM, maggietaggie said:

I thank this post for all the great dining recommendations for Rome.  All reservations made pending one.  Still need some recommendations for Florence so please recommend!!  Thanks

I'm a sucker for Sostanza.  Lunch or Dinner.  Tiny place.  Cash only and you need a reservation unless you want to get there right when it opens and hope there is an opening.  You may share a table.  Amazing petti di pollo al burro (chicken in butter) and tartino di carciofi (artichoke fritatta).  I've never had their steak, but I have heard it's good, too.  

[maggietaggie]

If you had to pick a restaurant for your first day arrival in Rome, basically for appetizers and pizza,  which would it be:

Da Francesca

Trattoria Polese

Emma Pizza

Balestrari Campo d’Fiori

 

All are close by to our hotel and all seem to have received positive reviews so just need to pick one so I can make a reservation.

Thanks

[slidergirl]

5 hours ago, maggietaggie said:

If you had to pick a restaurant for your first day arrival in Rome, basically for appetizers and pizza,  which would it be:

Da Francesca

Trattoria Polese

Emma Pizza

Balestrari Campo d’Fiori

 

All are close by to our hotel and all seem to have received positive reviews so just need to pick one so I can make a reservation.

Thanks

Emma.  Been there, enjoyed the pizza and they had Brunello by the glass. 

[Choozin Croozin]

2 hours ago, slidergirl said:

Emma.  Been there, enjoyed the pizza and they had Brunello by the glass. 

I see Brunello mentioned a lot here. What is special or unique about it. I am trying to learn what I may like to order as far as wine goes. I know nothing about Italian wine. Thank you. 

[marazul]

1 hour ago, Choozin Croozin said:

I see Brunello mentioned a lot here. What is special or unique about it. I am trying to learn what I may like to order as far as wine goes. I know nothing about Italian wine. Thank you. 

Brunello di Montalcino is one of the very best DOC's in Italy. It is a wonderful wine. You should look it up in one of the wine review websites, such as Wine Spectator. It is very unusual to find it 'by the glass' so Emma would be a good place for you to try it.

[bennybear]

3 hours ago, marazul said:

Brunello di Montalcino is one of the very best DOC's in Italy. It is a wonderful wine. You should look it up in one of the wine review websites, such as Wine Spectator. It is very unusual to find it 'by the glass' so Emma would be a good place for you to try it.

Thanks for the tip about Emma, our DGD name.  We love Brunello,  also read somewhere that it was the late Queen Elizabeth’s favourite.    If you get a chance go to Montalcino where it’s grown.   it’s readily available by the glass and you can try some really wonderful ones.  

Edited April 13, 2023 by bennybear

[Choozin Croozin]

 

4 hours ago, marazul said:

Brunello di Montalcino is one of the very best DOC's in Italy. It is a wonderful wine. You should look it up in one of the wine review websites, such as Wine Spectator. It is very unusual to find it 'by the glass' so Emma would be a good place for you to try it.

I will look into it. Thank you. I'm excited to try it. Emma is very close to where I am staying in October. 

13 minutes ago, bennybear said:

Thanks for the tip about Emma, our DGD name.  We love Brunello,  also read somewhere that it was the late Queen Elizabeth’s favourite.    If you get a chance go to Montalcino where it’s grown.   it’s readily available by the glass and you can try some really wonderful ones.  

I am excited to try it. 

[tusconcam]

My DW and I are looking for advice/suggestions for local feel Piazza Navonna restaurants please. We are staying nearby in May and could use some personal experience advice for breakfast, on the go places and dinner too.

 

 

 

If there happens to be any appertivo/appertif bars you can pass on it is greatly appreciated.

 

Feeling overwhelmed.

[Host Bonjour]

On 4/12/2023 at 10:29 PM, Choozin Croozin said:

I am excited to try it. 

 

As usually happens when I read this topic, I suddenly have the urge to go get a bottle! This is a nice wine, tbh, most of the Italian DOCs are, just never took a liking to Lambrusco, which was served in particular with a home cooked meal in Modena. (Think Riunite, but better quality 😂) Also not a huge fan of Prosecco which I find a little too sweet, but you can find a few that are drier. Nothing quite like actual Champagne (or the price of real Champagne...or visiting the vineyards and caves, come to think of it...but I digress)

 

Find a wine shop with someone who has a good knowledge of wines, or as marazul said, go through Wine Spectator and read up on Italian reds. You can find reasonably priced (generally, though Barolo and Amarone can get a little pricey, but there's no vintage necessary...) bottles to try and then enjoy them when you are on your cruise and doing the excursions or any pre/post visits. Even a good red table wine in Italy will be enjoyable...especially up in Tuscan region. It will definitely augment the food experience you're after, since you've found this topic 😉 

 

Meanwhile, someone was just showing me a photo of a limoncello concoction (had a cloudy but lemon look to it( that they enjoyed while staying in Italy, it looked amazing but I can't remember what it was blended with...and this was only two weeks ago. 😂 I guess it's a slower delivery system for the ever potent digestivo, which I've only ever had it those tiny little glasses, straight up. 🔥🍋

 

And suddenly I want tagliatelle...oh well.