Host Jazzbeau in France

Thanks all for your good wishes. I will try to keep posting during the cruise, although ship wifi tends to be slower and less reliable than hotel wifi. Full report will follow after we get back.

If you are lucky enough to have Kris for a CM, it will be a great cruise indeed.

Tell Mrs. JazzBeau that she in for a real treat with "handsome Captain" Danny. :D

If you need to know French tolls in advance, plan the route on the viamichelin site (http://www.viamichelin.co.uk/) - it will tell you every time that you need to get a ticket and how much you need to pay at each toll booth.

Note that motorways often become free when they are a bypass to a major city. There is a way of telling the difference between a free one and a toll one one some maps.

Since there was no staff at the toll booths, I presume there were machines that took your cash? I've had that problem in the States, when there was no way to pay cash at all so if you didn't have a transponder you were out of luck. Do they have transponders in France? Could you have got your car equipped with one? I know they do this in Portugal, for instance.

Have a great cruise, Jazzbeau and Mrs. Jazzbeau...Jazzbelle?

The last time I heavily used the French toll roads was 2010. At that time the machines took my magnetic stripe Amex card. Funny that way!

We did drive briefly on a toll road near Bordeaux in 2012 but the toll was small and I used coins.

There is a subtle difference between USA and Europe issued chip and PIN cards that affects how they work in unattended kiosks. The European ones have the PIN burned into the chip itself so it can be read by a standalone machine without a network connection.

Bottom line - I don't think any US issued card works 100% of the time. Just hope mine works at the Nürburgring!

Since there was no staff at the toll booths, I presume there were machines that took your cash? I've had that problem in the States, when there was no way to pay cash at all so if you didn't have a transponder you were out of luck. Do they have transponders in France? Could you have got your car equipped with one? I know they do this in Portugal, for instance.

Most times you will find a manned booth, it is only late at night or small exits that may be unmanned and you will always be able to pay cash - though sometimes no change is provided.

France does have an electronic pass which works on all motorways, toll bridges and some car parks, however I don't think that it is available for short term hire. I have a pass as in a 200 mile stretch from Calais to my apartment in Normandy there are 7 points to either take a ticket or pay !

(1) We didn't see any staff at any of the French toll booths, and every lane was blocked by a gate until you paid up -- so you could theoretically be stuck there forever! But maybe there was a lonely staff member [think Jesse White as the Maytag repairman] lurking somewhere.

(2) Our Barclay Arrival+ card has the PIN burned in, and does work in some non-internet kiosks. The problem with the French toll booths is that they deliberately do not take US cards.

(3) I was told that you can't buy the electronic pass unless you have a French address.

Bottom line--if you are from the US (or Canada, I presume) you must have cash for the French tollbooths.

We had a lovely day today. Leisurely breakfast, checked out of the hotel into a taxi that drove us to the quai where AmaDagio was waiting. She was rafted to a Tauck ship which looked very luxe -- the decks lined up so we just walked straight through to AmaDagio. As soon as I announced our presence several crew members jumped up and went out to carry our bags.

Lunch was being served in the lounge (sandwiches, soup, apple crumble and cookies) but some guests who ordered beer and wine were charged for it [because this wasn't an official "lunch"]. They accelerated cleaning our cabin and we were welcomed to it in about 20 minutes -- and our luggage was already there.

We went back into Lyon to do more sightseeing and returned to the ship about 4:30. We had bought a carnet de dix Metro tickets and have used 8 so far -- if we find the tour tomorrow duplicates what we've already done, we have 2 tickets left to leave them and go somewhere else in Lyon, otherwise a little tip for some crew member.

We were able to unpack our huge amount of luggage into the well-designed closets, and the 5 bags are all hidden under the bed now. The Captain just announced the welcome toast will be in a few minutes, so I will leave off for today. The cruise has begun! :)

(3) I was told that you can't buy the electronic pass unless you have a French address.

Bottom line--if you are from the US (or Canada, I presume) you must have cash for the French tollbooths.

The good news for the Brits is that we can buy a French pass.

https://www.saneftolling.co.uk/

And other close Neighbours can buy on https://www.bipandgo.com/en/nos-offres/a-la-carte

It is strange that more French drivers seem to prefer the queue to sailing through with the pass !

However please ignore me and enjoy your holiday. I look forward to your reviews of the food on board.

We had a lovely day today. Leisurely breakfast, checked out of the hotel into a taxi that drove us to the quai where AmaDagio was waiting. She was rafted to a Tauck ship which looked very luxe -- the decks lined up so we just walked straight through to AmaDagio. As soon as I announced our presence several crew members jumped up and went out to carry our bags.

 

Lunch was being served in the lounge (sandwiches, soup, apple crumble and cookies) but some guests who ordered beer and wine were charged for it [because this wasn't an official "lunch"]. They accelerated cleaning our cabin and we were welcomed to it in about 20 minutes -- and our luggage was already there.

 

We went back into Lyon to do more sightseeing and returned to the ship about 4:30. We had bought a carnet de dix Metro tickets and have used 8 so far -- if we find the tour tomorrow duplicates what we've already done, we have 2 tickets left to leave them and go somewhere else in Lyon, otherwise a little tip for some crew member.

 

We were able to unpack our huge amount of luggage into the well-designed closets, and the 5 bags are all hidden under the bed now. The Captain just announced the welcome toast will be in a few minutes, so I will leave off for today. The cruise has begun! :)

5 bags, are you on the titantic?:D

jc

Jazz - Enjoying reading about your trip as we will be doing it next year though in reverse.

Making notes of what you did so it will aid us next year.

Jane

Where did you stay in Lyon prior to boarding the cruise? Any restaurant recommendations?

5 bags, Mama Mia! Shoes? :D

5 bags: 10-day weather report varied from mid-90s to mid-60s for highs, and from sun to rain -- so we brought several outfits for every condition. Shoes: hiking shoes (2 pairs, one with Goretex), plus Sperrys and laceup. Lots of toiletries. Computer, camera, tablet (for maps in car), GPS, Michelin atlas (very heavy), lots of travel planning papers. I read these threads about packing light and just shack my head :eek:

Where did you stay in Lyon prior to boarding the cruise? Any restaurant recommendations?

I think I mentioned this above: we stayed at the hotel Globe et Cecil, and had dinner at the restaurant Daniel et Denise. Both highly recommended.

Sorry that I haven't been updating. The internet has been quite good actually, but AMA has kept us so busy with activities that I have barely had time to read all the threads! We are now in Viviers and just back from the most wonderful evening excursion: the AMA Limited Edition [but free] Boulanger Bakery Experience. About 20 of us [everyone who signed up was accommodated] walked from the ship after dinner to a local bread bakery where a select group rolled out some already-kneaded lumps of dough into the long think baguette shape. These were then put in rising racks, and will be baked later this morning. We don't have to go back for them: the baker had other loaves already prepared for baking, which we each scored with a razor and stuck on a number label [i got 007 -- so I will have to order some Bollinger to accompany my James Bond baguette!]. While they cooked the baker showed us how he makes Nougat candy. Then the loaves were ready and we each took home our personally made [well, scored] baguette. I just broke off the end and ate some -- it is delicious! There is nothing like fresh bread! They only problem is that AMA has been giving us so much good food at all hours, that it will be hard to find an opportunity to eat my bread -- maybe on the bus to Pont du Gard tomorrow afternoon.

This morning in Tournon we had a choice between the Steam Train up the Gorge; Red Wine and Chocolate Pairing; and Hermitage Wine Tasting. We did the latter and enjoyed it very much -- we went to the vineyards of M. Chapotier and then to their tasting room where we had three high-end wines [older vintages no longer even for sale] -- as we left I noticed that the general public was getting current vintages of their lesser wines, so AMA really did us up proud. Then we had free time, and were given directions to the Valrhona chocolate museum and tasting room -- we passed on the museum but indulged ourselves greatly in the tasting room where dozens of varieties were available without limit. Chocolate heaven!

I am enjoying this cruise tremendously in all aspects, but I have to give AMA extra top marks for the shore excursions because every option on this cruise is complementary and many are the same excursions that I have read about on other cruise lines as extra cost. Also everyone has been accommodated for every one of their choices: gentle walkers [every day], bicycle tours [two, plus free use of bicycles any other time you want], hike [one -- we took this], wine tastings [beaujolais, an activity onboard yesterday while we sailed, and the two options this morning], Pont du Gard [coming up tomorrow afternoon after the general morning tour to a truffle farm and the village of Grignan], Carrieres de Lumieres [the next day, as an alternative to Les Baux and an olive oil farm]. Plus every afternoon if we are sailing they have organized an activity onboard, and every evening there has been a musical group. No hairy legs or wet t-shirt contests, but no adult should complain about a lack of activity on this cruise! I will document all the activity choices in my review after we get back.

Sorry that I haven't been updating. The internet has been quite good actually, but AMA has kept us so busy with activities that I have barely had time to read all the threads! We are now in Viviers and just back from the most wonderful evening excursion: the AMA Limited Edition [but free] Boulanger Bakery Experience. About 20 of us [everyone who signed up was accommodated] walked from the ship after dinner to a local bread bakery where a select group rolled out some already-kneaded lumps of dough into the long think baguette shape. These were then put in rising racks, and will be baked later this morning. We don't have to go back for them: the baker had other loaves already prepared for baking, which we each scored with a razor and stuck on a number label [i got 007 -- so I will have to order some Bollinger to accompany my James Bond baguette!]. While they cooked the baker showed us how he makes Nougat candy. Then the loaves were ready and we each took home our personally made [well, scored] baguette. I just broke off the end and ate some -- it is delicious! There is nothing like fresh bread! They only problem is that AMA has been giving us so much good food at all hours, that it will be hard to find an opportunity to eat my bread -- maybe on the bus to Pont du Gard tomorrow afternoon.

 

This morning in Tournon we had a choice between the Steam Train up the Gorge; Red Wine and Chocolate Pairing; and Hermitage Wine Tasting. We did the latter and enjoyed it very much -- we went to the vineyards of M. Chapotier and then to their tasting room where we had three high-end wines [older vintages no longer even for sale] -- as we left I noticed that the general public was getting current vintages of their lesser wines, so AMA really did us up proud. Then we had free time, and were given directions to the Valrhona chocolate museum and tasting room -- we passed on the museum but indulged ourselves greatly in the tasting room where dozens of varieties were available without limit. Chocolate heaven!

 

I am enjoying this cruise tremendously in all aspects, but I have to give AMA extra top marks for the shore excursions because every option on this cruise is complementary and many are the same excursions that I have read about on other cruise lines as extra cost. Also everyone has been accommodated for every one of their choices: gentle walkers [every day], bicycle tours [two, plus free use of bicycles any other time you want], hike [one -- we took this], wine tastings [beaujolais, an activity onboard yesterday while we sailed, and the two options this morning], Pont du Gard [coming up tomorrow afternoon after the general morning tour to a truffle farm and the village of Grignan], Carrieres de Lumieres [the next day, as an alternative to Les Baux and an olive oil farm]. Plus every afternoon if we are sailing they have organized an activity onboard, and every evening there has been a musical group. No hairy legs or wet t-shirt contests, but no adult should complain about a lack of activity on this cruise! I will document all the activity choices in my review after we get back.

Thanks, Jazzbeau, for the wonderful update. The bakery excursion sounds amazing!

We are huge AMA fans, 2 cruises with them so far. Can't wait to sail with them again.

Love hearing about your adventure. Enjoy!

Jazz, great to hear that you are having a wonderful trip! The crew and staff on AmaDagio was the best we have ever experienced and we really enjoyed the cruise.

Chapotier was a favorite of ours and we now keep a case or two of their wines in our cellar.

Jazz, glad you are enjoying your trip. What has the weather been like? Seems some of the excursions you mentioned I did not see on their brochure. Lots to do for sure! Can't wait for our cruise next year. Enjoy!

Weather has been fine on the cruise. Before the cruise we started with one hot day and one rainy day, but otherwise it has been clear or partly cloudy with highs in the high 60s or low 70s. As we sail South the weather should be getting warmer, but Le Mistral is blowing so it has stayed cool. But looking out my French balcony window while docked in Avignon [this is why it is worth the upgrade -- for that perennial thread ;)] the river is like glass, so I hope Le Mistral has blown itself out. We are expecting a high of 82 today.

Jazz,

Love to hear about your trip to Pont du Gard. Did you get to walk on the aqueduct?

FuelScience

Glad you are having a good cruise:)...my first River Cruise on AMA will

be in April:D....enjoying your "Live From":)

Jazz,

Love to hear about your trip to Pont du Gard. Did you get to walk on the aqueduct?

FuelScience

That turned out to be an interesting -- if somewhat bizarre -- day. Our CM had been spot on all week with announcements even though this was an unusually complicated cruise what with gentle walkers, regular, fast walkers, bikers, and Road Scholars all having separate groups -- and often two or three choices of excursion at a time. But we were keyed up for Pont du Gard and made sure to be in the lobby about 10 minutes before the announced time. There was quite a bit of confusion, and the CM was running between the lobby and the quay -- but we never heard the announcement that our tour was ready to board. When we finally asked him (5 minutes past time), it had already departed! :eek: It was not just the 4 of us: 2 other unrelated individuals were in the same boat. But the bus had left, and we were advised that our only choice at that point was a walking tour of Avignon.

Some background: I had really, really wanted to visit Avignon four years ago on a Med cruise that called at Marseille. I researched on the web how to take the local train and thought there would be just enough time. But we had so much trouble finding the Marseille train station (the port was completed disrupted with a major construction project at that time), and then the kiosks wouldn't take our American credit cards -- so we missed the train. Instead we spent the day in Marseille -- and ended up having a very good time.

So as I was steamed about this snafu on the Pont du Gard visit, DW reminded me of the above and I realized that this was God's way of giving me the Avignon visit I had missed. The walking tour included a detailed visit inside the Pope's Palace, which was much more interesting than I had expected. And then we had free time to do the rest of the Rick Steves walking tours of Avignon, ending at the famous bridge. So we had a great day in Avignon.

Then today, as we disembarked AmaDagio, we decided to use our rental car to visit the two main sites that Ama's multiple excursion choices had forced us to miss: Pont du Gard and the "Carrières de Lumières" near Les Baux. We were able to do both and still drive over to Marseille to drop the car before tomorrow's TGV to Paris. [Our planned visit to Aix-en-Provence had to be skipped -- another make-up that awaits a future cruise! :)]

So it all worked out!

As to Pont du Gard: yes, it is really worth visiting. Roman engineering in general is pretty astounding, but the scale of this aqueduct spanning the Gard valley is just mind-blowing. We didn't get to walk across the aqueduct itself -- those tours are only given in the afternoon -- but I don't think it would really be all that great. There is a bridge just in front of the aqueduct that you can walk across, and that let us see both the high viewpoint and the riverside viewpoint as well as the museum. We spent more time there than I had expected, because we enjoyed it so much. [The Terraces restaurant is a great place for lunch.]

Carrières de Lumières is also mind-blowing, and I don't understand why the river cruises don't include it with the visit to Les Baux -- you're already there, so they could save bus travel and parking costs as opposed to our combo visit of Les Baux and the olive farm. But the olive farm was good too -- I guess the problem is that there are so many worthwhile things to see in Provence!

In July we took the train from Avignon to Marseilles as we had already spent a few days there and wanted something different. It was one of those 100+ degree days but we did enjoy it.

JB, very glad you were able to see both Pont du Gard and

Carrières de Lumières on your own andenjoyed both of them!

Jazz- Great attitude and good jobs working with the Lemon that you were given.

Weird how stuff works out sometimes. Nice that your patience was rewarded.