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Venture with Bill & Mary Ann on the 2013 GW Voyage "Postcards from Paradise" 115 days


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Report # 30 Bora Bora, French Polynesia January 29, 2013 Tuesday

 

Well before we woke up, the Amsterdam had dropped anchor in the protected Vaitape Bay of Bora Bora, with a mere nine feet of water under the lowest part of the ship. This stunning island is different from Tahiti and Moorea, because it is surrounded by a lagoon and a fringing reef. In the center of the island are two peaks, which are remnants of an extinct volcano. One is Mount Pahia, and the tallest at 2385 feet is Mount Otemanu. The waters in this paradise are the most dramatic shades of blue and turquoise, and are filled with sealife. The best snorkeling and diving can be done here. Especially if you want to see sting rays and reef sharks up close and personal. Many expensive shore excursions were offered here through the ship, although many of our buddies had pre-booked some swim tours here on their own for a much better price.

 

Our destination was an island tour, one that we have done as recently as two years ago. We booked it with our travel group and about 40 other fellow passengers, most of whom we know. Tendering over to the village of Vaitape was not a problem this morning. Since we were on an organized tour, we got off as a group to tender ashore. It was no surprise that the weather was going to be hot and humid once again. However, up until today, there had been several days of heavy rain. So guess we got lucky even if it was stifling.

 

We all loaded into the typical island transport of "le truck". Only these were much larger with cushioned seats and windows we could open. With two le trucks filled, we started our sight-seeing journey which took us around the island for about a 20 mile ride. Once out of the town, we got a true glimpse of island living by seeing the typical homes built of concrete blocks and metal roofs. We saw many folks tending their front gardens full of flower and vegetable plots. It was not unusual to see a tomb with a wooden roof over it right in the front of the house. It is their custom to bury their family members on their property, since they never have any intentions of selling that land.

 

Our first long stop was to learn how pareos are dyed and decorated. Everything used to make these wraparound creations was something you would never suspect. The native girl had a special way of folding the plain white cloth, then she dipped it in several different colors. Two girls unfolded the cloth, and instantly you saw flowers in all those colors. This cloth is then placed on a corrigated metal table to dry in the sun. While it is drying, pre-cut pieces of old linoleum flooring cut in the shapes of fish or turtles were placed here and there on top. Bunches of green ferns were also laid on top in the same way. The weight of the items eventually left their mark on the fabric. Pretty neat. Then we were invited to taste some of the local fruit of the island such as coconut, papaya, mangos, and banana-flavored poi in coconut milk. Sounds weird, but it was very refreshing and sweet. Many ladies purchased the pareos here, especially when they heard that these same pieces would cost double in town.

 

We had several more photo stops at the base of Mount Otemanu, which had two waterfalls from the recent rains. Our guide said these falls would be gone by this afternoon. Another brief stop was at a beach where we looked for seashells. However, the nicest stop was at Sofitel Marara, one of the many resorts that offer huts on stilts over the water. At this nice hotel, we were treated to a buffet of exotic fruits , champagne, and rum punch. Two years ago at this stop, we had even a nicer buffet which included calamari and tea sandwiches, even though the tour description said this was a snack stop. It was still nice, but sitting in the open patio in the hot sun was not a great idea. Even the locals said it was too hot and humid for them. Our guide mentioned that the high season for these islands is from May to October, when it is drier and cooler. If our travel plans go as expected, we should be back here in October and find out for ourselves the difference in the weather.

 

Finally, we continued on to the island's famous restaurant, Bloody Mary's. It was not supposed to be a stop, but everyone we know would have squealed if we didn't. They gave us five minutes to run inside, take photos, or buy a souvenier. We bought a t-shirt, while our buddies Connie, Joe, and Michele bought the local beer Tabu. They must have been really good, because they drank them in about 10 minutes.

 

We got back to the tenderpier at about noon, briefly walked the town, then caught the boat back to the ship. The best part of going back is when you climb the stairs to enter the ship, and that cool blast of air hits you in the face. So we spent the afternoon watching an old movie, Jaws (scary if you went snorkeling today), then went for a sandwich after 2pm. It's the first time we had to wait at the sandwich bar, because lots of people had the same idea.

 

The sailaway party was held at the aft pool at 4:30pm. It was still hot outside, so many folks were taking advantage of the drink special. We did get a few drops of rain on our scenic sail out of the bay, but it felt so, so good. Captain Mercer mentioned that we would be having deeper swells and perhaps more rain as we head towards the next port of Rarotonga, Cook Islands. That might mean a "no go", because we know it is a difficult place to tender the guests ashore there.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

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Report # 31 Day at Sea January 30, 2013 Wednesday

 

Well, as hot as yesterday was, today was definitely different as we head southwesterly towards the Cook Islands. Deep swells and choppy seas kept the ship rolling through the night and continued during the day. Heavy clouds hid what sun there was, but it was still warm and muggy despite a few sprinkles.

 

As we did our usual thing walking and swimming at the back pool, others went to lectures in the Queens Lounge. First Barbara H. spoke about things to do and see in Tauranga and Napier, New Zealand. New Explorations speakers have joined us with the first talk given by Charlie Urbanowicz about Pacific mysteries. The afternoon lecture was delivered by Bruce Linder with the subject being maritime history, specifically the Pacific series. Our cruise director Bruce is also doing a series of talks about music appreciation. Today he spoke about classical music that goes to France.

 

The highlite of our day was being invited to the Captain's Dinner at 6pm this evening. Around 4pm, we had a knock on our door by a waiter who gave us two small glasses of a cucumber-based drink. Guess you could call it a cucumber smoothie, for which you really have to develop a taste. It was slightly sweet, but also salty. We think it is best to leave the cukes for the salad.

 

The dress of the night was formal, of course, and we were set to go at 6pm to the Wajang Theater or Culinary Arts Center for a cocktail reception with the Captain and some of the officers and staff members. This party was usually held in the Piano Bar on deck five, but it did disrupt the normal flow of traffic at that time of the evening. Now we would already be on deck four, right across from the Pinnacle Grill restaurant. Convenient and time saving. Anyway, we lined up and entered the theater to find the kitchen set-up opened for guests to mill around. The aisle was also set with a few small tables that we used to enjoy some canapies and drinks. The only problem with this set-up was that once we entered the room, we were trapped where we ended up. You could not get around people blocking the aisle. Barb had warned us not to go in the room first, and we weren't the first, but somewhere in the middle. Oh well, it was a short party. We ordered cocktails of our choice while visiting with Peter, the ship's purser. The servers came by with trays of goodies, which included watermelon balls drizzled with balsamic vinegar, scallops, and skewered filet mignon pieces. There was an outer wrap on the filet, that we later found out was bacon. These were so good, we could have dined on them for our entree. The best beef so far on this trip.

 

Towards the end of this reception, the Captain and his wife, Karen, came over to chat. They did remember us from sharing their table at the Mariner's Lunch last year. Discussing the weather situation, we learned that perhaps tomorrow's port may not happen. Many factors were stacking up against the success of anchoring and tendering people ashore. Captain Mercer said that even if conditions are OK in the morning, that could all change by late afternoon. He would not be too fond of the idea of leaving any guests behind because the tendering could be impossible. Want to bet we don't go??

 

We were seated with Peter the Purser, by request, a couple we recently met, Sandy and Mike, and a Georgian gentleman, who just became a vegan before this cruise. Why, we're not entirely sure, but he seemed to indicate it was for health reasons. The meal was very different than our normal dining room fare. The first course was a creamy garlic soup, served with the best bread we have tasted so far. The wines were poured, except for us, we ordered something different. Next came a spinach salad with slivered almonds and parmesan cheese sprinkled on top. The third course consisted of a rolled salmon slice with the good caviar in the middle. Veal medallions, assorted squashes, and a polenta cake was our entree. Very tasty, although very small, we ate every bite. Dessert was quite unusual with small chunks of cheese and equally small squares of chocolate. Now the different part of this plate had squares of coffee jello, coffee and cream, and something unidentifiable. A plate of chocolate candies were shared by the six of us. Coffee and tea finished the meal.

 

By 8:30pm or so, the Captain bid farewell to all and invited us to take our little gifts of ceramic napkin holders made by the Goedewaagen folks with us. He added that we would also have an additional gift waiting for us in our rooms tonight. It turned out that the extra gifts were the same clever vase that held the flowers on our tables at dinnertime. They match the napkin holders and will be most useful at home.

 

In addition to these gifts, everyone received Bushnell Power View binoculars, 8X magnification. We did bring the good binoculars from home, but the smaller size will be good for one of us when we go off on the African safari. You know what was nice? Seeing the logo on the box with an American flag and proud USA company printed on the box. How often do you see that? However, upon closer inspection, we read the product is made in China. Go figure..........

 

Keeping our fingers crossed that tomorrow's port happens. As this is being written, we are riding the waves big time.

 

Mary Ann & Bill

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Report # 32 Rarotonga, Cook Islands (or was it?) January 31, 2013 Thursday

 

After a long night of rough seas, we arrived to the island of Rarotonga quite early this morning. Conditions were just as Captain Mercer mentioned at dinner last night. Everything was against being able to anchor, let alone tender ashore. With the lack of a sheltered harbor, such as we had in Bora Bora, the ship would have no protected area free of high waves and currents to safely let us off. So, the visit was cancelled. Actually, Rarotonga was a substitute port for the island of Tonga, originally scheduled for next Sunday. Since almost everything is shut down in Tonga on Sunday, this port was exchanged for that one a few months ago.

 

We have been to Rarotonga twice in the past, so it was not a big loss for us. There were a few tours offered through the ship, and they would be credited back to people's accounts. Since we did not book anything, we had no concerns. We would have taken a long walk to see their famous 7-in-one palm tree planted in a traffic circle. We also remember a beach where we set off on a snorkeling expedition. At that time, we had arrived after a big storm, and the snorkeling was not good. The waters were all churned up, and we saw nothing.

 

The Captain mentioned that it may be possible to arrive in Auckland earlier than February 6th. If they were able to secure a berth, we could get there in the late afternoon, giving us 2 1/2 days there. He promised to let us know later today if that was a possibility.

 

The daily newsletter had to be re-printed with a seaday itinerary instead of a port day. And because the wind and waves made it difficult to walk the promenade deck, most folks stayed indooors. That left us plenty of space at the aft pool to relax the rest of the afternoon. It remained mostly cloudy, but we never had much more than a spritz of rain. By late afternoon, the sun actually appeared, although the wind never let up.

 

The Captain did announce that we will arrive to Auckland perhaps at 6pm on February 5th. We think that made everyone happy. But what made them even more happy was the glass of champagne we all had at dinnertime, compliments of the Captain and Hotel Manager for missing today's port.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

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Bill and Mary Ann…do you have the Celtic Tenors on board? They are on one of the ships in "your area" but not sure which one…if so make SURE to see their show…they are fabulous! Had them on the Prinsendam for a week and were so lucky.

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Report # 33 Day at Sea February 1, 2013 Friday

 

The Amsterdam has dropped south fairly quickly as we head for Auckland, New Zealand. What a difference in weather. We have lost that heavy mugginess that made most folks quite miserable for several days. That's a good thing.

 

Walking the promenade deck was a pleasure with the cooler breeze blowing. However, the seas have remained rough with deep swells every now and then. You have to be careful with every step to avoid tripping up. For some reason on this particular trip, we have noticed that fewer people are walking daily. Makes it easier not to be racing and trying to pass on the turns. There are always "show-offs" who walk fast, but only do a few laps. We remember in days past when you got Dam Dollars for walking one mile. That drew many eager folks, but many of them walked out one door, collected the dollars, then ducked back inside the next door. Amusing.

 

The rest of the day was a lazy one for us. The sun was out earlier, but as the day advanced, the clouds began to move in. We believe the days are numbered for relaxing at the aft pool, especially with the several port days coming up soon in New Zealand. When Captain Mercer came on the speaker with his update PM talk, he said we would be skirting a storm by tomorrow that happens to be packing a lot of rain. Looks like we have hit it earlier than he thought. Guess we cannot complain because we have had little rain to spoil any of our stops.

 

Explorations speakers continued their series of talks on World War 2 in the Pacific and war ships in 1812. A few food demos were presented by staff members, but so far, we don't believe any famous chefs have been onboard doing their cooking classes.

 

We had company tonight at dinner........Nancy and her mom, Lynn, and Fran, all friends from past cruises. They all seemed to have a good time, and it was nice to finally have a full table of ten. Casey was absent, but he may be getting a head start on packing. He will be leaving us the second day in Auckland, when the next big segment of the world cruise begins. He'll be missed. But we will gain more friends, Diane and John, who will be staying until Cape Town.

 

Sometime tonight we will cross the International Dateline, thus losing Saturday, February 2nd. It will be Sunday, the 3rd for us, even though we will not change the clocks, just the date. The Captain said that if anyone's birthday fell on February 2nd, then this year would not count. Wish it did work that way.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

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Report # 34 Day at Sea February 3, 2013 Sunday

 

There were two certificates waiting for us in our mailslot this morning, making it official......we had crossed the International Dateline, thus losing one day, Saturday, February 2nd. So technically, we are 22 hours ahead of Pacific Standard Time, even though our clocks are only 2 hours ahead of PST. As we continue in a westerly direction, we will gain these hours back one at a time until we get the lost day back.

 

The best thing about today was the weather. It continued to be cloudy in the morning, but the skies turned mostly blue by noontime. Perfect for spending some time at the aft pool of course. Something tells us that the water in the pool is no longer warm, especially when two ladies went in and let out a yell of pain. No, we didn't even try to find out.

 

About 2 weeks ago, we got a question and answer request form to fill out three questions for Mr. Kruse, the CEO of HAL. He will be joining the ship in Australia, and will address some questions when he delivers his talk in the Queens Lounge during his visit. Whether or not he answers the inquiries we write, well, we doubt it. However, here is what we wrote.

1. We do not believe it is fair to host exclusive cocktail parties according to the guest's nationality. It causes much resentment with the majority of passengers who are not included in one of their own. It should be for all or no one.

2. We have noticed that the 4 & 5 star Mariner and suite priority tendering policy has changed from port to port. There are many of these guests onboard, so there should be a plan in place to accommodate them well ahead of the difficult ports we may visit.

3. What exactly is the smoking policy on the HAL ships? Shouldn't it be the same fleetwide regardless of destinations or durations?

All of these subjects can be a make or break experience for many passengers. Too many negatives can drive folks to other cruise lines, we think.

 

Tomorrow will be Superbowl Day for us with the game being broadcast on channel 33 on all the ship's TV's. Channel 33 is ESPN, a station we have been getting for most of the trip. Since we are so close to New Zealand, the feed has been very good, with no disruption. So here was a new twist for the ship to make money. For the first time that we know of, "super seats" which we assume are the front row seats in the Queens Lounge, are being sold for the price of $54.95 per person. This entitiles the buyer to a personal butler who will serve unlimited drinks priced at and below $7. for the duration of the game. And you get to keep the glass. If you happen to be a big drinker, you have their game beat. There are other packages that are more affordable, according to our bar expert and tablemate, Casey. He told us at dinner tonight that some of the bar staff that he has gotten to know well indicated that in order to broadcast this game, it will cost HAL extra money. He was led to think that by selling these drinks packages, it would help to reduce the cost of the game by a lot. Now, we get to see the Superbowl Game every year while onboard if we are in an area that we get the signal. You better believe that if extra costs are involved, our cruise fare would cover that cost. Casey, bless his heart, spends a small fortune on beverages daily, and all of us resent the fact that he was led to think he needed to contribute even more. Sometimes it takes just one bad apple to ruin the barrel. Of course, we did not express our opinions until Casey left, because he will indeed enjoy his pre-purchased beverages and his favorite bar stool, if he is able to get his seat early enough. If we know the true sports fans, they will be up at the crack of dawn to claim the best seats, well before the kickoff time of 1:30pm. Whatever, we will be rooting for the 49ers for sure, and more than likely, from the comfort of our room.

 

We also had company for dinner this formal evening. Bill and Leta, our longtime buddies, joined us. They have a table for two, and usually leave the dining room an hour ahead of us. Since there was a special musical trivia game at 9:30pm in the Piano Bar, Leta had to leave to join her team for that game. Bill stayed with us until well after 10pm joining in the lively conversation. Guess we all missed the show of Andy Bunger, a marimba, panpipes?, steel guitar, drums, sax,& trumpet player. The Celtic Tenors will be back tomorrow evening, and we understand their show was good.

 

Another day and a half and we will be in Auckland. We've been told that about 60 folks are leaving us, and 80 joining.

 

Mary Ann & Bill

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Report # 35 Day at Sea February 4, 2013 Monday

 

It figures that today would be the clearest and sunniest day as we sailed south towards Auckland. We've even picked up a few sea birds that followed the ship all day. Some type of gull or tern, they swooped over the waves created by the vessel, never once landing in the water. If they are looking for food, it must be flying fish, although they are few and far in between.

 

For no good reason, we almost missed the dining room breakfast this morning due to oversleeping. Must be the fresh ocean air that kept us sleeping so well last night. Breakfast service ends at 9:30am sharp, so with five minutes to spare, they did seat us promptly. The upside to this is there was no long wait for our food.

 

Since today was Super Bowl day for all of us on the ship, we kept our stay at the aft pool shorter than usual. The kickoff activities began at 1:30pm in the Queens Lounge, and because we have never watched the game there, we decided to check it out. The "special seats" were located in the dance floor area, 13 of them, and were cordoned off from the rest of the lounge. These folks got the expensive package that included a butler. They were serving food to these fans from the snack buffet set up in the lounge entrance.

 

After taking some photos of the highly-decorated lounge, we set off to see what kind of food they were offering. As long as we were already there, we figured we may as well get in line and try some of the goodies. They had trays of sliders (hamburgers), grilled hot dogs, fresh buns, chili and sauerkraut for the dogs, nacho cheese, guacamole, chips (both potato and tortilla), submarine sandwiches, and cheese pizza. We were in snack heaven! They even had special football plates for our food. Since the room was already filled with people, we brought the filled plates to our room, but not before grabbing 2 bags of buttered popcorn on the way out of the lounge. Might as well splurge right?

 

So we watched the game on ESPN, which did not turn out as we had hoped, but at least we enjoyed our plates of fun food. Since there was that power interruption during the game, we heard that many people that had bought the booze packages were quite happy. With the extra 35 minutes added to the game time, they really got their money's worth. Casey was one of those who had a really good time at the Sports Bar while nursing his package. How he made it to dinner tonight, we're not sure. But since he will be leaving us soon, this would be his final evening eating with us. He thanked us profusely for inviting him, and we all wished him a safe trip home. He would have been here tomorrow evening, but with the added time in Auckland, he and some of his friends made plans to go onshore for dinner.

 

For no good reason, the air conditioning decided to quit in our room this afternoon. The thermometer on our travel alarm clock read close to 80 degrees and climbing. We did report it at 6pm, and also told our room stewards about it, hoping it would be fixed by the time we got back from dinner. Apparently, that did not happen, so we called again at 10pm to the front desk girls. They promised to send someone to check it, but by 11pm, we realized that was not going to happen. Hopefully, it will not get any hotter during the night. Good thing we have that fan we always order for our room.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

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Report # 36 Auckland, New Zealand February 5, 2013 Tuesday

 

The natives were getting restless this sixth day of being at sea. With no port stops, the anticipation of arriving to Auckland earlier than expected was high, even though we got there late in the day.

 

It sure looked like it was going to be a warm day this morning, but after breakfast we found out differently. The skies were turning cloudy and grey rapidly, and the winds were increasing. By noon, we had gale force, or an 8 on the Beaufort scale. That is close to hurricane winds, or at least it felt like it. Believe it or not, we attempted to sit in what sun there was at the aft pool. When the sun did come out, it was really warm. However, in the clouds, we had to wrap up like mummies with four pool towels. The real trick was keeping these towels in place and not losing them over the back railing. By 2pm, we gave up and went inside to warm up with hot chocolate and coffee.

 

Around 1pm, the Amsterdam was sailing by small islands off the north coast of New Zealand. Soon we also spotted some larger seabirds, and realized they were gannets. These graceful birds are commonly seen in these waters and have some of the largest nesting colonies in the world in the Auckland and surrounding area. While we were filming these islands and birds, we began seeing some large splashes in the water near the ship. Turns out they were dolphins playing in the ship's waves. Don't know why, but they dive under the vessel and swim right under the bow without colliding with the ship. It's really a treat to see them. Seldom do we have our camera when we see them. But today we did, and we got some good shots for a change. You have to be quick because they literally hit and run.

 

The Captain slowed near the harbor entrance to pick up the pilot around 5:30pm. A good place to watch the sail into this harbor was on the bow. We were alone because there were gale force winds out there. The closer we got to the harbor, the winds slowed down, thank goodness. Now more people were coming out there, including several of the crew members. It turned out that we were docking at a pier that was not across from the Hilton Hotel. Remember, we were not supposed to be here this early, so our docking space got changed we think. If we heard correctly, two more ships will be in port tomorrow with thousands of passengers. Also tomorrow, we will embark new guests. Among them will be Diane and John, both of whom we spotted watching our sail in from the pier. Unfortunately, they cannot come onboard until tomorrow. Would have been nice if they could have joined us for Barbie's birthday tonight.

 

By the time the ropes were secured and the customs and immigration folks came onboard, the ship was cleared for those who wished to go ashore. Lots of guests were thrilled to go out into the city this evening. Not us. There were so many good choices for entrees tonight, it was a hard decision to make. The 22 ounce porterhouse steaks sounded great to us. In fact, we refrained from eating lunch so we could enjoy those steaks.

 

Since we had a special birthday to celebrate tonight, we had guests.....Ellen, Aart, and Judy. Showered with cards and a gift of a belly dancing DVD, Barb was a happy camper. And so were we when two cakes arrived............one chocolate and the other a whipped cream covered, vanilla custard filled white cake. Now all Barb has to do is practice with the video so she can entertain all of us on the next formal night! With Barbie? You never know......................

 

Mary Ann & Bill

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Report # 37 Auckland, New Zealand Day Two February 6, 2013 Wednesday

 

Auckland, the City of Sails, is the largest and most modern city of New Zealand. More than 1/4 of the population live in this beautiful place. There are over 102 beaches for water sports, and 70,000 powerboats and sailing vessels in the harbors. And it is also a popular port for cruise ships. We were not alone, since the smaller Europa and the huge Voyager of the Seas were also docked here, both arriving in the early hours of the morning. The Royal Caribbean ship was so large that it blocked out the multi-story Hilton Hotel from view. John and Diane, who were staying there, would have a big surprise when they woke up this morning and opened their drapes. They'll be looking from their hotel balcony right across to the verandas on the ship.

 

We have visited this lovely city on many occasions over the years. Having gone on numerous excursions of the city and nearby countryside, we decided to explore on our own this nice day. Tomorrow we have a tour booked with our travel agency, so today will be for walking, eating, and shopping.

 

Heading left once off the ship, we spent all morning walking through the America Cup Village. This whole area has been re-done, creating a pedestrian path that included a lift bridge, cafes, sculpture parks, kids parks, and boats....lots of boats. Besides the population from three cruise ships (we figured about 5,000 people plus crew), the locals were out and about for a national holiday, Waitangi Day, the nation's birthday. Lots of activity was happening around the sailing boats with crowds going on day trips.

 

We proceeded to walk across the lift bridge, when the alarm sounded. Rushing to the other end, this bridge slowly opened up to let tall boats go in and out of the harbor. Pretty cool to watch. The neatest boat we saw was the Prada sailboat, which we are certain will be participating in races tomorrow. We counted 20 crew members on that vessel to man the sails, etc.

 

Since we wanted to work our way into the downtown area of the city, we made our way back to the ship. We were able to exchange some US dollars for New Zealand dollars near the ship, since the gals at the front desk had run out of money. And the banks were closed, so we would have to wait until tomorrow to cash more. For that reason, we lunched on the ship. Full service was in effect with the boarding of new passengers, and we like that. The pizza has to be served, instead of sitting outside on the pans for all to touch. John and Diane had boarded by now as well, so we spent some time welcoming them onboard.

 

There were a few items we needed to buy, so we set off for a second walk. That took us up the hill to the Sky Tower, the tallest structure in the Southern Hemisphere at 328 meters high. We did not wish to go up in the tower...been there, done that, but it was fun spending some time in the casino. Good excuse to sit and relax for a bit, and play the slot machines.

 

On the way back, we went into the mall nearest the ship and found what we needed easily. What shocked us was how much everything costs. Even though the US dollar equaled 1.20 New Zealand dollars, the prices in the stores were sky high. Perhaps the wages of the locals are good, we hope. Even our most cherished hokey pokey ice cream was $5. for a single scoop. And that's about all we did buy.

 

At the Countdown Market up Quay Street, we found a few more items for our room snacks. We always like to check out the cheeses available locally. At this grocery outlet, a pound hunk of swiss cheese was over $20. Wines were high too. Glad we don't drink them.

 

It was nice not to have to worry about getting back onboard since we were overnighting here. The ferry landing was very busy and fun to watch while enjoying our cups of ice cream. We got back on the ship by 6pm. Did we mention that the airconditioning in our room has been non-existent? Sometime during the night, the exhaust fan stopped working. The room heated up to 80 degrees again, so we reported it to our room steward with a follow-up call to the front desk folks. Two fellows came to check it out, then promised to come back shortly after we left the ship this morning. However, they did not return until 6pm with a new fan to replace the bad one. While we relaxed watching the news, two guys worked, with the curtain closed, for an hour or so, to replace that fan in the ceiling. Finally, they announced it was working, and our room would cool down soon.

 

Dinner was fun with our new tablemates, John and Diane, who will be with us until Cape Town, South Africa. With lots of catching up to do, the dinner went by very fast. We began re-considering our shore excursion we had booked for tomorrow. A repeat tour for us, we planned on joining our travel group for a wine country tour with tastings and a lunch. Bothered with a sore leg from tendonitis, one of us was going to have a hard time on a tour. So we asked Lucia if she had anyone who was willing to buy our tickets. Yes, there were several folks who wanted to go, so we sold them to a nice couple who tried to get on this tour since last fall. We were happy for them, and now we can spend the day in town on our own. A win-win for all.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

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Report # 38 Auckland, New Zealand Day Three February 7, 2013 Thursday

 

After a good night's sleep, we were up early and ready to explore more of the city of Auckland. Thankful that we had decided to forego the wine tour, we knew that we would enjoy a day of freedom to go at our own pace.

 

The weather was very different in that some clouds were coming our way, and at times, even threatened rain. Gone were the clear blue skies we had yesterday, although it remained warm. Actually, this was much better for walking, and that's what we did.

 

Bill and Leta had mentioned strolling through Albert Park yesterday. Not too far uphill from Queens Wharf, we had no trouble finding the 15 acre park. It is situated on top of a very steep knoll, and we could see why it was a good area to be used as a fortification against Maori attack in the early days. During World War 2, this same park was used as a public air raid shelter. Today there are beautiful garden beds full of marigolds, petunias, canna lilies, pink, red, and white cosmos, and salvia. Scattered throughout the park are commemmorative statues from several periods of wartime. Fountains and gazebos were surrounded with many wooden benches for the locals and nearby university students to use. Huge native trees, obviously centuries old, graced the hilltop.

 

We made another visit to the Sky Tower for two purposes. One was for a convenient pit stop, and the other was to try our luck at the casino again. Actually, we came out a little ahead this time.

 

Most all of the restaurants and cafes were filled, so we lunched on the ship, then made our way back to the Viaduct harbor and the home of the super yachts. The walking bridge over the harbor entrance must have gone up and down for boats at least four times in one hour. Fun to watch how efficient the service is. And of course, on the walk back to the ship, we got our ice cream fix.

 

All aboard time came too soon at 4:15pm. Our least favorite activity, the muster drill, was scheduled for 4:30pm. Our group for boat number six was all present and accounted for. If there ever is an emergency, we will be ready. Now that the new passengers are boarded, the next segment to Sydney has begun. So far, the Amsterdam has traveled a total of 9728 nautical miles from Ft. Lauderdale, with many more to go.

 

The sailaway following the muster drill was well-attended, because few wanted to miss the scenic sail out of the Auckland harbor. The clouds had lifted and the sun was out as we headed towards the next port of Tauranga. The ship should arrive by 8am tomorrow.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

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I am glad you are enjoying your World Cruise. Weather sounds better downunder than what we are experiencing in Northern Illinois. May you have blue skies and fair winds as you continue on your wonderful voyage. Please continue to keep us posted.

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Report # 37 Auckland, New Zealand Day Two February 6, 2013 Wednesday

 

 

On the way back, we went into the mall nearest the ship and found what we needed easily. What shocked us was how much everything costs. Even though the US dollar equaled 1.20 New Zealand dollars, the prices in the stores were sky high. Perhaps the wages of the locals are good, we hope. Even our most cherished hokey pokey ice cream was $5. for a single scoop. And that's about all we did buy.

 

At the Countdown Market up Quay Street, we found a few more items for our room snacks. We always like to check out the cheeses available locally. At this grocery outlet, a pound hunk of swiss cheese was over $20. Wines were high too. Glad we don't drink them.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

Hi Bill and Mary Ann,

 

I'm really enjoying your travel blog. Thanks for posting it.

 

As a NZ local, I do have to comment on the prices you saw. Plese don't think that the prices you saw are typical of all NZ.

 

Central Auckland, especially Queen Street, is one of the most expensive places you could shop. The shops there have to pay a very high rent and their prices reflect that.

 

$20 for a pound of Swiss cheese? That is a bit outrageous! Last week, at a supermarket in a smaller city, I paid $6.49 for a 500 gram block (about a pound) of local tasty cheese. Swiss cheese would be a bit more expensive (ir is imported, after all) but nothing like $20.

 

Don't forget that, in NZ and Australia, the price you see includes taxes. The price you see is the price you pay, and does not have any more tax on top.

 

And yes, we have a legislated minimum wage and staff are not dependant on tips.

 

Glad you enjoyed your time in Auckland. :)

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Report # 39 Tauranga, New Zealand February 8, 2013 Friday

 

The port of call for today was Tauranga, New Zealand. Just a three hour drive south of Auckland, Tauranga is totally different from the big city. Tauranga has population of 116,500 lucky people. To be more precise, the Amsterdam was docked in the beachside suburb at Mount Maunganui, with a smaller population of 15, 600 of even luckier people. We say that because this resort-like town is situated on a narrow peninsula, which is surrounded by Pilot Beach and the Main Beach of the Pacific Ocean. The focal point of this suburb is Mount Maunganui, an extinct volcano that rises up 232 meters high (761 feet).

 

A popular tour out of this city is Rotorua, a national theme park with geysers and sulfur pools. The Maori Arts and Crafts Institute is also we decided to stay here and enjoy our day exploring this little bit of paradise.

 

The weather was as good as it gets........warm, with a cool breeze. We actually made two trips walking to two beaches and then a hike through the town center. The tide was out at Pilot Beach, close to where the ship was docked. Again, we were not alone, since the Europa had already beat us to the pier early this morning. This gentle section of beach is suitable for families with small kids. While a few little ones romped in the surf and dug holes in the sand, we spotted three foot long octopi swimming in the shallow water. We did recall on our last visit here that we saw fishermen hoisting these octopus out of the water at Salisbury Wharf. Must be a feeding spot for these strange-looking creatures. Assuming the locals know of the presence, they must also know they are the harmless type.

 

At the end of this beach was the looming Mount Maunganui, with a "free" hiking track around the base, reportedly a 45 minute walk. It is possible to summit the peak, and we later found out that friends Bill & Leta did just that. You would never guess that one of them is nearing 80. With one of us still nursing a sore leg, we turned right instead, and headed across the peninsula to the real beach with the waves and miles of scenic coastline. This is the spot for volleyball tournaments, surf life saving events, skydiving, various exhibitions, and swimming in hot salt water pools. Benches were numerous for relaxing and watching the world go by.

 

There is an island connected by a narrow pathway from the beach. We walked high enough on this island to get some really good photos of the cliffs and beach below. Some fellows were fishing from the volcanic rocks, but we never did see what they were catching. There were a few surfers, some brave swimmers (waters look very cold), and many sunbathers. Dogs were allowed on one side of the beach, and it was fun watching them romp in the waves.

 

The nearby downtown section was really one main street lined with cafes, bars, small boutiques, and souvenier shops. Again, we were shocked at the high prices of everything from beer to clothing. Maybe that is why there were so many second-hand stores selling used clothing for half price. A very unique type of clothing here is made from the wool of possums. Sounds weird, but the sweaters and socks were really soft and nice, if you can get past the "possum" thing. A poncho made from this fur cost about $199. NZ dollars.

 

The best buy we found was the generous scoop of hokey pokey ice cream for less than half of what we paid in Auckland. Perhaps it was not as creamy, but every bit as good. It was the perfect way to end our visit to this lovely part of New Zealand.

 

Sailaway was around 6pm, and of course, we joined the crowd at the aft pool to listen to the live band and take photos as we left. More than half of the passengers were eating dinner, so there were fewer people back there. Once the ship was out of the protected harbor, the wind drove the rest of the folks inside. It was really cold.

 

Our hosts, Lucia and Henk, joined us for dinner. They are such delightful people, and are always a pleasure to have with us all. Tomorrow we will be on a tour with them in Napier, another short ride down the east coast of the North Island. And we are sure to have a great time.

 

Mary Ann & Bill

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Report # 40 Napier, New Zealand February 9, 2013 Saturday

 

Due to the flucuation of the tide, we had to arrive an hour later to Napier than originally planned. That was great, because we had time to enjoy the sail into the massive Hawke's Bay. The weather could not have been more perfect. The sun was out and the skies blue, making the waters several shades of turquoise to dark blue. The bow was completely ours to watch the slow process of our arrival.

 

We booked a tour with our travel agency today, which took us out of town to Cape Kidnappers Station, a rugged coastal property owned by a local billionaire. This property is 5000 acres of steep hills and canyons, which have been planted with pines. The areas that are not planted are as barren as sun dried mountains we have seen in deserts.

 

After driving through Napier, where a bagpipe competition was being held, we headed along the picturesque coastline dotted with Norfolk Island pines. Soon we arrived to the station where we stopped briefly to pick up numerous free brochures and make a pit stop. Entering a private gate, our 4 wheel drive vehicles (there were three of them) started climbing a private road that took us to the top of the mountainside. Cattle and sheep were contained in large sections that were separated by miles of fencing and gates.

 

On the top, the owner of the property had built a massive home, as well as a hotel/bed and breakfast. A huge garden was planted nearby to supply guests with everything fresh. Stretched out in front of the home was a golf course, which if we heard right, ran about $400 to play. Continuing on, the vans climbed the steepest cliffs with hairpin turns until we arrived at the top where the birds were. Cape Kidnappers boasts having the most accessible mainland gannet colony in the world. Actually, we drove right up to this colony which was perched on the flat clifftop. Thousands of these large birds were caring for chicks of all sizes. Many were flying overhead, having come back from feeding on small fish for hours.

 

We were allowed to stand within feet of these interesting birds as they preened and fed their chicks, some of which were as large as the parents. The only downside was being on the upside of the aroma of the bird guano. Guess that's part of the experience. While we were busy taking photos, the guides and their helpers set up tables full of frosted cakes of all types, huge strawberries, and kiwi or orange juice. We located a bench on a lower cliff, where we could watch another colony of birds down below on limestone rocks. What a view we had of the bay and beaches below the windblown cliffs.

 

All too soon, we had to leave, mostly because more vans were arriving with the HAL folks doing the same tour. These roads to get here were very narrow, allowing for one way traffic. We did have to back up once to allow another vehicle by, and were glad to have to do this only once. Our driver stopped once to allow us out to take photos of the stunning views. Back down at the start, we made one more pit stop, then drove back through Napier. The tour ended with a quick drive through town to see the art deco buildings, built after a devastating earthquake in 1931. If we ever have the chance to visit here again, we will stay in town and explore there.

 

The sail away was as nice as the sail in. Boy, have we been lucky to have had so many perfect days since we have been in New Zealand. It's no wonder that the people here are so happy and friendly. It's obviously a great place to live.

 

Tomorrow we will be in Wellington.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

PS There have been some ship issues which needed fixing. We received a letter this morning announcing that the elevators would be out of service for an hour this afternoon. Good thing most folks were out in town or on tours. Then we have been having water problems with the shower. It has been sporatically going from warm to hot to cold in a matter of minutes, with the surprise of a pressure drop when least expected. Henk, the hotel manager, has promised to check into this for us, as we have never had a problem before in this room. We do know that many leaky pipes are in the process of being replaced, which may be affecting us.

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Report # 41 Wellington, New Zealand February 10, 2013 Sunday

 

Wellington is the southernmost national capitol city in the world, with a latitude of about 41 degrees south. It is also known as one of the windiest cities in the world, however, today was an exception. Again we were graced with a sunny, warm day to spend as we wished. No tour for us. Since it was a Sunday, we were in no big rush to go off hiking until after a proper breakfast. And besides, we were here until 11pm for a change.

 

As they have done before, the port authority had a complimentary shuttle that took us to Brandon Street in downtown Wellington, a 10 minute ride. Once there, we headed for the Kelburn Cable Car, which took us up the steep hill to the Botanic Garden. Funny thing was it cost $4. to go up the 6 minute ride, but was $7. to ride back down. Actually, the whole point of riding up, was the fun of walking slowly back down via the Botanic Garden.

 

The Garden covers 25 hectares ( 2.471 acres to one hectare ). The steep hillsides and canyons in the park are planted with conifers, some as old as the mid 1800's. The pines were imported from California of all places, and eventually these same pines became a renewable crop for New Zealand. Following a well defined map, we hiked the trails that led to one fabulous garden after another. We saw cacti, hydrangeas, seasonal lilies, agapanthas, and summer-flowering bedding plots. The best thing about this park were the numerous benches placed everywhere, and also the availability of clean public restrooms. What a people-friendly city.

 

The highlight of the park is the Lady Norwood Rose Garden and Begonia House. We must have spent an hour strolling through the rows of hybid teas and grandiflora rosebushes, and the large begonia hothouse with ponds and fountains. On our way back to the downtown area, we exited the park while passing through Bolton Street Memorial Park, a cemetery for the Wellington colony from 1840 to 1892. The one thing that really stood out to us was the fact that these folks did not live to a ripe old age. Life was tough for these early settlers.

 

We navigated our way downhill and found ourselves at the "beehive" Parliament Building, one of three law buildings. Nothing was opened because it was Sunday, but we have toured all these landmarks on previous visits. From there, we headed towards the wharf area, which was jumping with weekend activities. There is a neat museum, Te Papa, on the waterfront, and it was free. So we went inside and explored the wildlife section, right up our alley. They have an exhibit with a specimen of a huge squid, the only complete colossal squid that can be seen anywhere in the world. Many species of birds were displayed, giving us their proper names. On this same level in the museum was a display of three huge Hobbits, a reminder that the series of The Lord of the Rings movies were filmed in New Zealand.

 

The time was getting away from us, and since we wanted to find a good restaurant, we moved on. Recalling that many cafes and bars were on the waterfront, we walked from the weekend fruit and veggie market near the museum towards the wharf buildings. Thinking we were out of luck, we stopped outside an Italian restaurant that looked like we may find our favorite lunch item there.....pizza. It was nearing 3pm, and many places were shutting down. If it was not for the young server coming outside to offer us a look at the menu, we probably would have missed out on one of the best margharita pizzas we have ever had. Adding two glasses of Peroni beer, we savored every bite, relaxing at the same time. Good excuse to re-charge the battery so to speak. While we were dining, a Green Peace sailing ship arrived at the wharf. Someone outside told us they were there to offer boat tours, probably for donations starting tomorrow.

 

The shuttle bus was promptly on time to take us and several other guests back home to the ship. Many folks had taken their computers to town to find free wifi, which was available at many locations. We find it amusing that so many passengers think nothing of spending thousands of dollars on a world cruise, but feel it so necessary to seek out the free stuff, such as free internet. Guess it works for some, especially the crew. Now that makes sense to us.

 

There was a BBQ at the Lido pool from 5:30 to 8pm this evening. We always check it out, but never eat there. With the wonderful pizza, we were really not hungry anyway. What bothered us was watching the cooks grilling the lamb chops with scallops. One of us has a serious allergy to shellfish, and this type of cross-contamination could be dangerous. Had we had not seen it, tasting the lamb chops would have not been a pleasant thing. No, it would be the dining rom for us tonight.

 

The Amsterdam left the pier by 11:30pm, and headed from the North Island to the South Island for the next port of Picton, a new one for us.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

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Report # 42 Picton, New Zealand February 11, 2013 Monday

 

Well, finally a new port for us, and we believe, a fairly new port for the Amsterdam......Picton, New Zealand, located at the head of Queen Charlotte Sound. Usually a sleepy town at most times of the year, it turns into a hive of activity during the summer months, which is now. Activities include sea and river kayaking, fly-fishing for brown and rainbow trout, and serious hiking.

 

History tells us that convicts were carried to Perth, Australia from these wharfs, as well as troops to the Crimean War, and immigrants to New Zealand. Native Maori inhabitied this area of the South Island, and the local museums tell their story with rare relics from the past. Today, this part of the Marlborough is known for their fine wines, massive vineyards, sheep stations, green mussel farming, and honey production. Again, another huge resource are the Monterey pines that grow so well in the mountainsides and valleys.

 

Usually when we go to a new place, we take a tour. So we booked one with HAL called Marlborough High Country Safari, an excursion that would take us to see some of this fabulous countryside. This will be the longest tour, 8 1/2 hours, that we have booked on this cruise, and also the most expensive one. Hope it lives up to its promising description.

 

Ready to go at 8:20am, our group of twelve was called to race down the stairs to the waiting tour bus. Actually, we found that our transportation was not a bus, but another 4x4 van like the one we took in Napier to see the gannets. Guess there will be some off-road driving on the way. You know what we liked about this tour? The fact that we seemed to have a compatable group of folks, none of whom we knew. But what a good way to get to know some new people. Seems that one nice lady did know us by our blog, since she mentioned something about our "cork forking" game. One day she wants to pay a visit to our table to see how it is played. Truthfully, we have not done this yet, because we do not want to ruffle the feathers of nearby dinner guests. Not everyone has a sense of humor.

 

Anyway, we were in for a looooong ride, we estimated about 150 kilometers or 93 miles one way. Once through the town of Picton, our very knowledgable guide and driver headed for the hills literally. Outside of another larger town called Blenheim, we stopped at a honey factory, Sweet Nature. There we listened to a young gal who described how the honey was gathered from bees that fed on different types of flowers. Each flavor of honey had its distinct taste, depending on where they located the beehives. We sampled clover, creamed clover, black beech bark, blue borage, and Manuka honeys. The Manuka blend reportedly has healing properties and perhaps increased levels of antibacterial activity. It is being tested further to see if it can become incorporated into the medical field. Other products sold here included lotions, face creams, waxes, soaps, and hand sanitizers. We purchased a small bottle of the clover honey, because it tasted the best. The Manuka blend was too bitter for our taste, and had an aroma of camphor or something close to it. Finally, a sample of a hive with live bees showed us how they worked in the waxy comb with the presence of one queen bee. Gosh, these little insects sure work hard to produce the sweet nectar for us.

 

Continuing on, the van left the paved road for a graveled side road. Must be a short cut to the sheep station. On the way, our guide said we would make a coffee/tea stop. Expecting a rest stop, he pulled over in a grassy field with an out house in one corner. Then he pulled out a bag with a portable table, two large thermoses full of hot coffee and tea, cups, and berry muffins. How civilized.

 

Then we were off for a spectacular ride climbing the mountains, crossing the rivers, leaving the Awatere Valley to the massive area where the sheep stations were located. Our destination was the Upcot Station, a mere 35,000 acre piece of property. We were met by the owner, who gave us an up close and personal demo on sheeping shearing. He then brought out his two trained dogs to show us how they muster the flock. The first dog, a huntaway, barks and nips at the sheep from the rear. The border collie, then rounds them up and brings them into the corrals. Each dog responded to a different whistle from their master.

 

His wife invited us all inside their home for a country-style lunch that included a rabbit stew, cous-cous, salad, and homebaked foccacia bread. Juices, wine and beer were served with the meal. The best part of this lunch was the fact that the couple Bill and Nicky, joined us for lunch. They were very interested in where we all came from and what it was like living all around the world. And of course, we were intrigued with their way of life. The owner told us that he had five sheep per acre and hires 6 men with their dogs to shear twice a year. The kids, all girls, eventually have to board at schools out of the area, since the ranch is so isolated. The ride to town takes an hour and a half, which the mom drove twice a day when the kids were in grammar school. If they needed some groceries, they can call the postmaster who kindly delivered those items to them. They had two large veggie gardens and surrounding fruit trees with no apparent pests (squirrels, gophers, or moles). How can one not love this life, especially with the daily views of two 9000 foot mountains in your backyard.

 

We asked about hunting, and found out that no licenses are needed to hunt the red deer. You do need licenses for fishing and quail hunting. The animals on the property belong to the property owner.

 

Afterwards, we made one more stop at a renowned winery, Yealands Estate. The vineyards stretched for 5 kilometers across terraced ridges and gullies, as far as we could see. It is a first class operation, producing some of the famous New Zealand wines sold worldwide. We tasted at least six varieties, even though we are not wine drinkers. Almost everyone bought some bottles despite the fact they were expensive. We can understand why in the last 15 years, there has been a massive move from sheep farming to wine growing. The conditions are excellent. So good, that 11 rows of vines, produce 2000 bottles of wine. These grapes are all machine harvested by the way.

 

The fun part was when our guide carried in a box of crackers and blocks of cheese. He asked one of the winery staff for plates. Then he pulled out his handy pocketknife, and proceeded to cut the different cheeses on platters mixed with rows of crackers. Hey, that worked for us.

 

We were back to the ship just in time for the sailaway out of the windy harbor. We were even treated to a display from a pod of dolphins jumping in the ship's wake. Great way to end our visit to this beautiful country.

 

We now have three days at sea crossing the Tasman Sea.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

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I really enjoyed your trip to New Zealand; especially the 8 hour tour. We always like to visit with the locals. Our daughter and her husband toured the country a few years ago and really want to go back. They felt very welcomed there by the locals

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