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**Near-Live Blog of Zaandam Inca and South America Cruise 24 Sep - 3 Nov 2018**


0bnxshs
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Yikes Rich on the bug bites 😞  Hope they go away quickly and don't bother you.

 

Great detail on the Gold and Silver package.  Very informative.

 

It sounds like it was very well organised.  

 

It is very impressive that they were able to put the new tour together with the cancelled port.  I am so glad for you and Roger and everyone else that had the opportunity to enjoy it. 🙂

 

Thank you for the additional great videos and pics!

 

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Day 24-25 (10/16 - 10/17) (somehow I've lost a day here.... :classic_unsure:)

 

Sea Day and Coquimbo, Chile

 

Roger has come down with the sniffles.  On the other hand, I'm really feeling much better.  Wherever I must have left the cruise crud, it looks like he has found it.  I'm still coughing a bit and still blowing my nose but I can feel I'm over it.  I start making sure Roger takes the medication I have been taking; mainly mucus control meds and the same cold and flu day time and night time meds I had been taking.  He won't generally take any on his own.  I do make sure not to over medicate him though.

 

I know he's feeling poorly as he didn't do his walk this morning.  It's still overcast and the ocean continues to be disturbed by something.  Long swells roll and pitch the ship, sometimes roughly and noisely, sometimes with a gentler hand and soothing voice.  We are heading across open water down the coast to Coquimbo and La Serena.  I had considered a tour here to the Cerro Tololo Observatory in Vicuna but don't really want spend the nearly 8 hours bouncing and winding on crazy roads there and back.  But, there are some very nice tours to this area and the Elqui Valley if you want to spend the day traveling.  There's not a lot else to see though in the port of Coquimbo or in La Serena.  So, I decide, after making sure that he is settled into the cabin and as confortable as possible (feeling a bit guilty here that he's sick, but I did try to keep everything clean and not handle things before him), to take a walk along the port area and just see what's around.  It's not much.....

 

Firstly, there is that same old wreck in the south part of the harbor that was there in 2011 when my DW and I were here on a cruise to celebrate a friend and his DW who was ex-patriating to Chile, only they went on ahead before us because he got an early retirement offer he couldn't refuse.  Anyhow,  I don't know how long it's been there but it may have seen Magellan pass by long ago, it looks that old.  Ok, not really.  But it seems odd that no one has salvaged it for the metal, at least.  Then too, there is the Cruz del Tercer Mileno, the 3d Millenium Cross, that sits nearly 200 meters above sea level and is itself 83 meters tall, the tallest monument in South America but some estimates.  But it's a bit of a walk and I'm not up for it today.

 

Before I leave, I notice that the water in the sink now doesn't come when called.  Now I'm concerned, but soon it faucet begins to hack and spit and hiss, much like Roger is doing, and soon enough it throws spews nasty looking rusty water into the sink bowl.  In my devious mind, this will shock Roger when he sees it and I stop it up and let it fill some, making "yuck...., ewwwww" sounds as I do for his benefit.  He looks in my direction with a puzzled face but shrugs it off.  This prank ends up biting me later.

I walk the length of the ship along the portioned-off dock and soon notice how my shoes are alternately slipping and sticking with each step.  I had noticed as soon as I had begun walking that birds had been using the dock quite prodigiously as a bombing range and now began to realize that it wasn't so long ago that they had been practicing.  Walking on Machu Picchu had been easier than this!  I started trying to step carefully to avoid the mess that literally covered the distance of the ship along the dock to little avail.  There was no avoiding this, as I also noticed others trying to step lightly.  I hoped they had a shovel or something to scrape shoes with at the end!

 

I walked through the virtual market that pops up near every cruise ship at every port.  Noticing the prices stopped me as they seemed quite reasonable.  I looked around, found all the dogs and 1 cat hanging around and feel badly for them.  One of them can't use his right front leg to bear weight and hops pitiably around.  I make noises at him and he comes up and I pet his head hesitantly.  I've now got a friend and he follows me through the market.  I reach the end of the market and cross the street, hoping to walk to what appears to be a shopping mall and hoping my new friend won't follow and he doesn't.  There's not much sidewalk here and I'm just imagining how the dirt is now sticking to the bottoms of my shoes in the bird mess and find places to scrape them along the way.

 

I turn back at the fish market as I near the mall.  I'm not really wanting to shop for anything anyhow.  I re-enter the market and find my friend has waited for me and begins to follow me again.  I stop and talk to Jim, our dining steward in the Lido Market, and watch as she purchases several nicely made pieces of jewelry and pays US$9 for it all.  I'm impressed!  Her given name is Paphatson and she is from Thailand.  She is very friendly and very conscious of our needs.  We always sit in her section in the Lido for dinner.

I manage to dodge getting my shoes all messy again walking back to the ship.  After boarding I go check on Roger who is feeling and sounding worse.  He's ready for lunch though, so this is a good sign.  We eat lightly.  Go back to the cabin to read (nap).  Wahoo, our room steward sees us and trots quickly to ask about the water in the sink bowl.  "What's wrong?  Just cleaning lines!"  Water ok!"  I try to explain but I think it's lost on him.  Roger doesn't say anything and never looked at it.  Great.  Later, a housekeeping supervisor knocks on the door while we're "reading" and asks if everything is ok.  With a straight face I tell him, as innocently as I can, "Sure, no problems!"  He goes away happy and I remind myself again that these people do not get my sense of humor at all.

 

Happy hour arrives and, while he's not so happy, Roger wants to go.  We sit, not quite quietly has we both are coughing and blowing our noses, until dinner, which again we eat lightly at.  Jim asks after both of us and seems concerned.  We greet our friends, Russ and Jen, trying to keep them at a distance but find they have also been sharing cruise crud.  Thank goodness Russ recognized me early on as I'm not sure I would have him.  They were on the Amazon Explorer cruise we were on in 2016 and, as we talked, I quickly remembered he too is a motorcycle rider like I am.  Anyhow, for some reason, today's chat with them over dinner turned to protecting oneself while touring.  Russ mentioned that he had set up a "fake wallet" to hand over to bandits in the event of being held up.  A cheap wallet bought at a dime store, a couple of dollars placed in it with a couple of those silly fake "credit card" that come in those offers in the mail, a copy of an old driver's license that's had the detailed printing obscured.  They both carry these in the obvious places and are ready to hand them over should anything happen.  Not a bad idea and I'm going to look into doing this too.  Thanks Russ!

 

I'm feeling so much better; Roger is not.  He heads to the cabin right after our chat with Russ and Jen.  I wander about and watch as we leave Coquimbo.  A band on the dock entertains us as we leave, as much for it's 'not quite right' attempts at songs as for the genuine effort.  It's turned into a very nice evening.  We leave, dropping off the pilot almost as soon as we leave the dock (I'm not sure why pushing off the dock even required a pilot) and head back into the disturbed Pacific.  Pitching begins almost immediately and gets quite noticeable.  The sun sets far away, not noticing our attentions to it at all.  (P.S. I like that I haven't found a limit to photos and links yet.)

 

Coquimbo/La Serena harbor:

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The old wreck:

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Zaandam's stern:

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The market at the dock, with dogs included:

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Cruz del Tercer Milenio:

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My doggie friend with the bum leg (he always laid down whenever I stopped) and first cat I'd seen all cruise:

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Band at Coquimbo dock:

 

 

Leaving Coquimbo:

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Pitching Sea!:

 

 

Sunset again:

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Edited by 0bnxshs
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I think those wrecks are actually fishing vessels seized by Chile's navy and in somewhat a state of limbo until the owning countries do something to get them back.  My impression was that there is little Chile can do with them but after some period the navy can take them out to sea and use them for target practice. 

 

Roy

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7 minutes ago, Krazy Kruizers said:

Enjoying your reports and wonderful pictures.

 

Sounds like the ship is getting the crud.

 

Hope you all get better soon.

 

Actually it's been better than I thought it would be, but it has affected friends and acquaintances.  I think because we've had a large turnover in passengers, it doesn't seem so bad.

Edited by 0bnxshs
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On 10/20/2018 at 2:42 PM, erewhon said:

Thank you for your wonderful review and photos of your visit to Machu Picchu.

Ditto all the comments - thanks very much for the videos and photos of your MP trip! We expect to be doing something similar about this time next year, also on the Zaandam. We haven't yet decided whether to do a HAL tour or a 3rd-party tour during the cruise (from Lima, returning to the ship in Pisco), or do a tour after our cruise (which will end in Santiago). Lots of time to decide. And your comment about the Galapagos tour will give us pause as well.

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Thanks for the report.  Did a version of this cruise 4 years ago except from Vancouver to Valparaiso a couple of weeks later in the year (ship was doing the Vancouver-Alaska 1 wk rotation and went to Hawaii before heading down to South America).  Been seeing the Zaandam come into Victoria every Friday (I think it was Friday) this Alaska season.

 

We got off at Valparaiso and went to Easter Island before going to Lima, Cusco and doing the usual independent land tour.

 

+1 for Jim McFarland. He was the lecturer on the Prinsendam westbound trans-Atlantic 6 years ago.  Truly engaging speaker and I can't imagine how lucky his students (he's a teacher in Ontario) who have him are.

 

Don't recoqnize the name of the other captain who was/is taking over.  The one we had was a Dutchman.  Tall, youngish (late '40s/mid '50s?) curly blond haired man? 

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More wonderful reporting and pics and videos!

 

Fabulous Rich. 😄. Thank you.  Love the sink story and your new friend.

 

So sorry to hear that Roger has been bitten by the cruise crud bug.  And that it is affecting acquaintances.  Uggh.  Glad you are getting over it and hope that Roger recovers quickly.

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7 hours ago, cruising cockroach said:

.........

 

+1 for Jim McFarland. He was the lecturer on the Prinsendam westbound trans-Atlantic 6 years ago.  Truly engaging speaker and I can't imagine how lucky his students (he's a teacher in Ontario) who have him are.

 

Don't recoqnize the name of the other captain who was/is taking over.  The one we had was a Dutchman.  Tall, youngish (late '40s/mid '50s?) curly blond haired man? 

 

Fully agree on Jim McFarland.  Excellent speaker with broad knowledge.  We're fortunate he is still aboard.

 

You've described our current captain perfectly.  Copper10-8 called him Vincent Smit; the in cabin literature names him Ane Jan Smit.  I've sailed on the Maasdam a couple of times when he was Master of her.

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1 hour ago, kazu said:

More wonderful reporting and pics and videos!

 

Fabulous Rich. 😄. Thank you.  Love the sink story and your new friend.

 

So sorry to hear that Roger has been bitten by the cruise crud bug.  And that it is affecting acquaintances.  Uggh.  Glad you are getting over it and hope that Roger recovers quickly.

 

We are all better now, thanks.  Lunch today at PG.  Yummm....... 🍔🍻

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8 hours ago, DianeNZ said:

Ditto all the comments - thanks very much for the videos and photos of your MP trip! We expect to be doing something similar about this time next year, also on the Zaandam. We haven't yet decided whether to do a HAL tour or a 3rd-party tour during the cruise (from Lima, returning to the ship in Pisco), or do a tour after our cruise (which will end in Santiago). Lots of time to decide. And your comment about the Galapagos tour will give us pause as well.

 

If you have the time and can afford to, really consider doing MP after your cruise; you'll likely have more time to enjoy it.  There are several lovely hotels in Aguas Calientes that I think would be so enjoyable to stay at.  There are several reputable tour companies that will guide you if you like.  I think ours from the ship was Lima Tours (www.limatours.com.pe) but I'm not certain of that and there are many.  Whatever you choose to do I hope you enjoy!

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Day 26 (10/18)

 

San Antonio (Santiago)

 

From the first looks of it, San Antonio is a city of containers.  Stacks and stacks line the dock we are at, so many that it seems that's all there is here.  Buses carrying passengers disappear between some of them but we can't tell where.  No one walks away here;  all must ride.  No one seems to know why Valparaiso has been abandoned for San Antonio and we've heard passengers both in favor of it and disapproving of the move.  Maybe I'll remember to ask the HD about it, his office is just down the hall from our home.

 

We are saying goodbye to old friends disembarking here and will say hello to new friends as they board here.  A few of our favorite crew also is going home from here and we are happy for them.  Unlike how it's handled in the US, Canada and elsewhere where a 0 (zero) count is necessary before boarding can begin, Chile doesn't seem to care about this.  What is important is that no one remove fresh fruit or seeds or other food item that aren't processed and pre-packaged from the ship.  We were warned about this in Coquimbo also and I expect we'll hear it again in Puerto Montt and Punta Arenas too.  So, Chilean customs has set up an inspection process for these items in any bag carried off the ship; if you don't declare something and they find it we don't really know what happens to you and we weren't interested in finding out.

 

Our friends Russ and Jen disembarked today for their independently planned overland tour of South America.  They are going to Iguazu Falls, Buenas Aires, Santiago, Valparaiso, Lima, Cusco and Machu Picchu among places I'm sure I've forgotten.  Here's hoping they have a great time.  We had nothing planned here today other than to get out and walk.  After a leisurely breakfast, watching all those disembarking today scurry around the ship looking for cell phone signals, WiFi, food and partners, we decide we just have to see what's beyond the containers.  Don't get me wrong, they're interesting enough in their own right, but they don't do much worth more than an hour or two watching.  Sort of like me.

 

Roger's not feeling the best but he's tired of this and needs to stretch his legs as he hasn't been doing his walking in the mornings.  He's not been up at 5 AM nor felt well enough to spend an hour walking.  We decide we'll head back to the ship when he gets tired and off we go.  A quick bus ride reveals the hillsides of San Antonio and beyond.  Yonder we spy what looks like something worth visiting; a glass building in the distance at the other end of a shoreline that is populated with fishing boats and larger container vessels and even another cruise ship.  We set off and head along the route defined by the sign pointing to the fish market.  Later, the smell directs us there.  Along the nice walkway there are "tourist guides" who offer free information about where to go and how to best get there.  The city has put some effort into accomodating tourists from cruise ships.  The walkway leads along the water front and is nice and decent for the most part.  'Carabineros de Chile' in their crisp green uniforms are well met along the way every so often as well as other 'oficiales de seguridad', as proclaimed by their hats and shirts.  On one hand, you might think there must be problems here with bandidos but we prefer to think this display is foresighted and not hindsighted.  Whatever the case, we don't hear of any trouble whatsoever.

 

We watch pelicans beg for their breakfast, spot the 'National Geographic Orion' (which as of this writing is still sitting there), spot sea lions near the fish market and do a bit of wandering through the glass building that turns out to be a mall and casino/hotel and check out the products and prices, none of which struck us as out of line to what we pay back home so much.  We did find that Lays makes a Pringles-like product here that we can't find at home and were impressed.  Can you say 'couch potatoes', anyone?

 

Again we find nothing to buy and Roger is getting fatigued so we head back in the direction of our home.  It's been a lovely morning, the weather has been fine and the walk both invigorating and relaxing.  We quickly pass through the terminal and onto a waiting shuttle for our ride back through the land of the containers and back to the ship.  We say goodbye to a couple of the crew we know that just happen to be disembarking as we arrive and tell them we'll miss them.  And we do.  Back aboard, we watch as the passenger count grows and feel like 'old-timers' as we greet crew and other 'old-timers' like us.  We notice the "When & Where" begins to repeat itself with shows and events.  Our new captain has boarded and a new "voice from the ceiling" begins to call our attention to the business of the ship.  We are comfortable and happy.  Roger is on the mend and I've nearly forgotten my crud.  All is well! 

 

Containers at the port:

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Pelicans waiting for breakfast:

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National Geographics Orion in the background:

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Sea Lions at the Fish Market:

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A kitty watching over the fish at the market:

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The fish being watched over by the kitty:

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Playing catch with a fisherman:

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Lays has their own Pringles?:

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Back at the terminal at the dock:

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We are absolutely loving your reports.  We are picking up this ship in Rio on 3rd November so we will be avidly reading your descriptions of all the ports of call from now on, hopefully picking up some tips along the way.  Even though we will be disembarking in San Antonio and heading for Santiago for a couple of days, we have been so inspired by your trip to Machu Picchu that it might become a future trip.  So glad we found the link to your blog. Thank you for all the effort you are putting into it.

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Also joining Zaandam 03 November and would be interested to learn what the temperatures are at each port of call if you are able to give us this information please.

 

Regarding the change from using Valparaiso - I asked our travel agent when we booked the ship and she said it was to do with too many workers strikes at the port having an effect upon the ships so they moved to San  Antonio.  Unsure if this is true or not......

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I think Valparaiso may have been a matter of logistics.   The dock used was on the west side of the port near the town (we could easily walk to the Ibis where we stayed from the ship), but we had to be bussed all the way to the east side of the port where the somewhat-decrepit ancient warehouse that served as the cruise terminal was located.  Of course, to get back to the ship, you had to be bussed back. The plus about that location was it was very close to the metro line, and not very much further to the bus terminal for busses to Santiago.

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I am still hanging on to your coat-tails as you glide gently south. I have been away for a while which was great planning on your part as whilst I was gone you were visiting the ports I will NOT be doing in March!

 

The info on the shuttles in Mantra were valuable and I like the sound of The Martinica Restaurant... all duly noted.

 

You really are doing a fabulous job and hope you are both recovered fully very soon.

 

Chris

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I got off in San Antonio on March 17th and took the HAL trip to Valpo on the way to the airport. Our guide, from Valpo, told us the Valpo dock workers did not want to handle cruise ships as they didn’t make as much money as servicing container ships. There were strikes and delays, and the lines took the ships to San Antonio. The contract runs another couple years, and the businesses (hotel, restaurant, tours, etc.) are hoping to get the business back when the contract comes up again. She said it is hurting the Valpo economy.

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7 hours ago, 0bnxshs said:

 

Fully agree on Jim McFarland.  Excellent speaker with broad knowledge.  We're fortunate he is still aboard.

 

You've described our current captain perfectly.  Copper10-8 called him Vincent Smit; the in cabin literature names him Ane Jan Smit.  I've sailed on the Maasdam a couple of times when he was Master of her.

 

Captains Vincent Smit and Ane Jan Smit are two different individuals, no relation. I gave you the wrong Smit.:classic_huh: Looks like you got Ane Jan; he grew up with Maasdam all the way from officer cadet to captain. 

 

Looks like you've met one of the Thai girls. HAL started hiring groups of them last year, primarily for the Lido and MDR to augment the Indonesians; great additions but with very loooong first and last names, extremely difficult to pronounce by Westerners, hence the "shorter versions"

 

Enjoy the Chilean Fjords today!

 

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1 hour ago, Copper10-8 said:

 

Captains Vincent Smit and Ane Jan Smit are two different individuals, no relation. I gave you the wrong Smit.:classic_huh: Looks like you got Ane Jan; he grew up with Maasdam all the way from officer cadet to captain. 

 

Looks like you've met one of the Thai girls. HAL started hiring groups of them last year, primarily for the Lido and MDR to augment the Indonesians; great additions but with very loooong first and last names, extremely difficult to pronounce by Westerners, hence the "shorter versions"

 

Enjoy the Chilean Fjords today!

 

 

John, thanks for clearing up the confusion of the captains. I thought perhaps Vincent might be a nickname for Ane Jan but now know better.

 

Also, I have slipped and called Jim McParland by the wrong last name. I spoke with him today after part 2 of his presentation on Ferdinand Magellan and he is definitely a McParland and not a McFarland.

 

Yes, we have met and enjoyed the company of 2 of the 3 Thai people on board. Jim works in the Lido and we dine in her area nightly, Kim works someplace where we've not met him yet and the third works with beverage service but I'm not even going to try and spell her name. The 2 we have met are gracious ambassadors of Thailand.

 

It was a very lovely day here in the Sarmiento Canal.  More on that later.

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We had Captain Ane Jan Smit on Maasdam a few years ago for the Atlantic Adventurer.  As we approached the Canary Islands, the ship lost all power.  Lights went out, elevators stopped, etc., (Our tablemate left, to fill his bathtub!)

After a wait, a few things came back on, elevators started up, but still no movement.  Captain Smit came on and told us "Do not be concerned, passengers - we are in deep water."

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So glad you and Roger are mostly recovered, Rich.

 

Hopefully his energy returns soon.

 

Can't blame those sea lions for hanging around the fish.  LOL.

 

Great reports and great pics.  This is truly a masterful LIVE thread.

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Day 27-28 (10/19 - 10/20)

 

Sea Day - Puerto Montt, Chile

 

I'm combining these days in an attempt to play catch up on the blog.  Since the outage of CC, I've let it slip a bit.  The sea day after San Antonio began with a long swell during the night that I'm sure left the newest passengers a bit green by morning.  In fact, the ha ngers with the bags appeared early the previous evening on the handrails in the elevator lobbies, always an indication that someone upstairs (on the bridge) is expecting a lot of movement.  We weren't disappointed.

 

Tonight is Gala night again.  Chef Manuel Matamala of Chile joined us in San Antonio and will today host a presentation on Chilean cuisine in the Wajang theatre and later, host a dinner in the Pinnacle Grill of his creations.  There is plenty to do this day around the ship also, with Adagio performing a matinee at 2 PM along with their normal evening schedule, a Puerto Montt presentation by the EXC Guide Kevin, a beer tasting and wine tasting, classic tea at 3 PM and the normal activities of the Spa.  The evening finds us at Happy Hour in the Ocean Bar and dinner early in the Lido Market with Jim and Junel.  Roger retires afterwards and I listen to Adagio and skip the show in the Mainstage, again "Variations" at 8 PM and 10 PM.  By the time we turn out the lights, the sea has calmed some, apparently finally convinced we've been shaken up enough for now.

 

The day at Puerto Montt dawns early with a partly cloudy sky and upper 40s farenheit temperatures.  The days are longer now and it's before 7 AM when the sun is up and after 8 PM before it's finished for the day.  It's nice, Roger has turned the corner on the crud, having not coughed all night as he had the last couple, and we're ready to get out and walk.  The high for the day is expected to be in the mid 50s but rain is expected later.  In fact, I heard from the HD that, 2 days earlier, the forecast for the area had been winds and rain all day, but weather forecasts change quickly in this area of the world.  Today is a tender day but not so many 4 and 5 star Mariners are aboard to prevent priority tendering for us.  We choose to stay aboard though, until they've called open tendering.  We don't have anywhere to be today except back on board by 4:30 PM.

 

Puerto Montt is the gateway to some of the most beautiful country to be found anywhere and especially in Chile.  Sort of at the northern end of Patagonia, there are mountains, glacial rivers and alpine setting very near this area.  Here are found lovely towns like the City of Roses (Puerto Varas) and Frutillar, reminiscent of Germany's Black Forest region, lakes with names like LLanquihue (pronounced "Yanqi-way") and rivers and falls named Petrohue, ominous mountains of the Vincente Perez Rosales National Park like the Osorno Volcano, which stands both guard and captor over Puerto Montt rather like Rainier stands over Seattle.

 

But we've seen these beautiful places before, not that I would mind to see them again and next season here, I likely will with my DW.  But today, we walk along the waterfront, past the bus station and up to the mall and then back again.  There's nothing that we need really but it's nice to be out in the cool temperatures and warm sun.  We pass the "Kissing Couple" which is famous at least here.  We pass several dogs sunning themselves, a few real kissing couples, a few beggars and lots of families out shopping or doing what we're doing, enjoying the day.

 

Tonight back on the ship is "No Smoking" night in the casino.  Scott Harris is the show tonight on the Mainstage and generally, everyone seems happy with their tours and the day.  Off we go right at 5 PM off into the calmer Pacific and onto our time along the Chilean Fjords and glaciers.  We are the first ship of the season and no one of the bridge staff knows what to expect in the Sarmiento Channel as far as ice and other obstacles are concerned.

 

Sunrise in Puerto Montt:

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Puerto Montt is a tender port:

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Walking up the ramp from the tender dock to shore, these screens seemed ready to give way underfoot:

VXzBqGr7jsJaE-pn-T2iBSfwqpT4ZxB-4QiSfdfR

 

From the shore:

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Our destination, the mall and hotel, with the base of Osorno Volcano just visible in the background:

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We met some poochies along the way:

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Zaandam sitting pretty:

D2M4_NWvQENiStx85QgUg3w-Z4jB82Y2M1R1bqI-

 

The Kissing Couple:

wvFDueZP6Ej_AabE95TxUudjQlhw3YWckvoVnPfP

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