Italy: all things food and wine-related

[bennybear]

@Host Bonjour love how you think!  

[cruisemom42]

On 10/10/2021 at 2:56 PM, Host Bonjour said:

It's not the same as shopping in the Piazza di Spagna but browsing is always nice: Sermoneta, before you know it, it's time to get on the plane, embark, and then you're in the shop deciding on styles and colors. What's even nicer is usually the items you find in the shop aren't the same as what's available online or even on this side of the ocean (depending on which side one is on) so that continues to make it a special purchase, aside from the sentimental value that instantly attaches with the purchase. 

 

What I enjoyed so much about shopping this very traditional store was the service. You are welcomed, seated, your hands are measured and then the boxes of gloves in your size -- in all possible colors of leather, suede, kid, ostrich, etc. are set out for your consideration. They will then assist you in trying them on and making sure the fit is perfect. They even have a special little tool for opening up the fingers of the glove before you put it on your hand so that you're not having to work at getting your fingers into the right holes.

 

It's definitely a personalized and old-school experience. My ex-MIL took me there the first time when we were on a family trip to Rome. She knew what she was doing when it came to shopping!

 

Can't get that kind of experience online.  😉

Edited October 14, 2021 by cruisemom42

[bennybear]

2 hours ago, cruisemom42 said:

 

What I enjoyed so much about shopping this very traditional store was the service. You are welcomed, seated, your hands are measured and then the boxes of gloves in your size -- in all possible colors of leather, suede, kid, ostrich, etc. are set out for your consideration. They will then assist you in trying them on and making sure the fit is perfect. They even have a special little tool for opening up the fingers of the glove before you put it on your hand so that you're not having to work at getting your fingers into the right holes.

 

It's definitely a personalized and old-school experience. My ex-MIL took me there the first time when we were on a family trip to Rome. She knew what she was doing when it came to shopping!

 

Can't get that kind of experience online.  😉

Yes and then you have the best souvenir.  They were so lovely I had to go back post cruise and buy two more pairs!  Rose gold leather cashmere lined and long navy fur lined😍

 

 

I also love how they beautifully wrap things,  and then there’s Frette, sigh.  And  Furla….

Edited October 14, 2021 by bennybear

[BeginnercruiserHD]

What are some decent options for breakfast in the Monti neighborhood?  We're staying in a cute little apartment for a couple of days before our cruise and I understand most restaurants don't open until lunch time.

[cruisemom42]

40 minutes ago, BeginnercruiserHD said:

What are some decent options for breakfast in the Monti neighborhood?  We're staying in a cute little apartment for a couple of days before our cruise and I understand most restaurants don't open until lunch time.

 

Breakfast?  Breakfast isn't really a meal in Italy so you're not likely to find a restaurant serving it. At most you should look for a bar (in Italy bars are more like dual purpose coffee shops, bars, and light snacks) where you can get a cappuccino and a cornetto (the Italian equivalent of a croissant).

 

Otherwise you might stop at a grocery and pick up items for breakfast as you'll have an apartment.

 

[Host Bonjour]

On 10/14/2021 at 5:13 PM, cruisemom42 said:

What I enjoyed so much about shopping this very traditional store was the service. You are welcomed, seated, your hands are measured and then the boxes of gloves in your size

 

Exactly. And that's why it adds so much to the holiday experience because, well once in a while it's quite a thing to have an extraordinary experience, and more so if it occurs while in a place that is absolutely unforgettable, like Rome.

 

What you described, with the finger tool, the measuring, after being escorted to be seated (in a sumptuously upholstered, cushioned chair in this salon, of course) well, it's not buying a scarf at Macy's. I'd say maybe they even offer a caffe, water or champagne but I'm thinking of the gloves and not wanting to see them risk being affected by moisture? Then again, they make the offer at Louis Vuitton, who knows. 

 

On 10/14/2021 at 7:33 PM, bennybear said:

Furla….

 

 

I did buy a Furla in Piazza di Spagna. For some reason, I can't even remember the experience! Probably because I was subsequently saddened because I ended up using the bag's dust cover later that day to try and quickly fashion a shoulder wrap in order to gain access to the Sistine Chapel. It was big enough, but it didn't work since my shirt didn't otherwise meet the requirements (in this I didn't plan right) and so I was out a dust cover for my new bag. Still have the bag...

 

Frette? I can only dream except I did have a Frette bed skirt that I got at an interesting close out place in Brooklyn; they had luxury closeouts, but only piecemeal items so you couldn't ever count on getting a set of Frette sheets there or if it did happen (it didn't), they wouldn't have matched. I might not have cared, they feel so good! I kept that bed skirt a good long time...

 

But yes, an excellent pair of gloves that will last plus a lovely shopping experience, well worth it. What a great way to preserve a memory. 

 

 

[Host Bonjour]

On 10/16/2021 at 8:13 PM, BeginnercruiserHD said:

little apartment for a couple of days

 

I did this once on a visit (I loved it!) but I found a small market and stocked up on things to keep on hand like water (remember to check w/ or w/o gas, frizzante=sparkling), wine, cheese, fruit, bread, etc., and yoghurt (spelled different there) and some jams. It would be difficult to find cereals, but you might be able find eggs if you wanted. You could use speck or crudo to make an omelette with the eggs and cheese, though it might be a little too salty?

 

Be sure to bring your own bag to shop, there are no bags at Italian stores, so if you're stocking in for a few days, be prepared. If you don't have anything to use, the markets might sell reusable bags to use for holding groceries. 

 

Have a great time!

[bennybear]

2 hours ago, Host Bonjour said:

Frette? I can only dream except I did have a Frette bed skirt that I got at an interesting close out place in Brooklyn; they had luxury closeouts, but only piecemeal items so you couldn't ever count on getting a set of Frette sheets there or if it did happen (it didn't),

I was lucky twice,  at a Homegoods type store.   I got a queen duvet cover and later  a king duvet cover and sheets😗.   On my bed now,  just love them, I always go in and ogle them in Italy,  but the price tag there has kept me just looking!  But how they feel,  sigh!  

[frantic36]

On 10/27/2021 at 4:30 AM, Host Bonjour said:

Be sure to bring your own bag to shop, there are no bags at Italian stores, so if you're stocking in for a few days, be prepared. If you don't have anything to use, the markets might sell reusable bags to use for holding groceries. 

 

I found this out in Paris as well. I bought one of their reusable bags from Monoprix which had a flower pattern at the time and their logo. I was sorry later I didn't buy a few to give as a souvenir gift for my sisters. If they don't have anything as cute in Rome I now always carry some small reusable bags that roll up small with me. Because here in Australia it is the same, no bags supplied free you use you own or buy one.

 

I will hopefully be staying in Rome in July, 2022. I have booked In Villa Spalletti which is just behind the Quirinal Gardens. This is a new area for me to explore and I have found a few well rated restaurants nearby. I was wondering if any of you well travelled people could recommend any trattorias or gelato places nearby. 

 

Cruisemom I am definitely going to visit Trajan's Market. I have been to Rome a few times but didn't even know it existed. Have you been and what was your impressions?

[cruisemom42]

13 hours ago, frantic36 said:

Cruisemom I am definitely going to visit Trajan's Market. I have been to Rome a few times but didn't even know it existed. Have you been and what was your impressions?

 

You will love it!  I think it is one of the better-kept secrets in Rome. There are two parts -- when you enter you walk through a museum with a lot of great displays that really help you to visualize not just the markets but ALL of the imperial forums -- those built by Julius Caesar, Augustus, Nerva, Trajan, etc.  It's worth paying attention to these but it's not overwhelming.

 

The second part is being able to walk out into the markets, which remind me of Pompeii or Ostia in terms of feeling immersed in the ancient world. There is a Roman road with ancient buildings that looks like a movie set, it is so well preserved. I expect to see toga-clad senators walking by every time I look.  Wandering among the market "stalls" it is easy to imagine things being sold there from all around the Empire.

 

Formerly you could also walk across the actual forum of Trajan but in the past several years they have been doing a lot of excavation and consolidation work, so that is likely to be off-limits. However you can still get good views from the museum and from the markets.

 

If you're exploring the Quirinale area you may also want to consider visiting the Roman houses excavated under the Palazzo Valentini (the headquarters of the carabinieri), which is fairly close. When I went it had not been open long and you had to reserve in advance -- not sure if that is still the case but you can read about it if you are interested. The excavations are interesting but it was a bit high-tech for me -- sound and light show type of production and no wandering at your own pace. You do get a fantastic view of Trajan's column at the end of it....   The official name is Le Domus Romane di Palazzo Valentini.  Should be about a 10-minute walk from your hotel.

 

Also check to see if there is an interesting exhibition at the Scuderie (the former stables for the Quirinale Palace) -- it's an interesting building but I believe it's only open when there is a show on. I saw a fantastic exhibit with objects from Pompeii and Santorini (both destroyed by volcanoes) that drew interesting parallels between them.

 

As to restaurants, I am not familiar with any in the very immediate area of your hotel, but a friend of mine loves Le Lanterne which is fairly close -- very, very traditional dining. Across the large Quirinale gardens from you is a great restaurant on the way to Piazza Barberini called Colline Emiliane. They are known for their wonderful house-made pasta (in fact it is featured in the window when you walk by). It's very popular right now (among Italians) or at least it was when I was last there in Dec 2019. A more modern looking place but very much based on traditional dishes and ingredients from Emilia Romagna. Very seasonal; if you want to go, definitely make a reservation in advance.

 

Outside the realm of ancient sites, you're also not far from two wonderful grand Roman palazzos stuffed with paintings from the masters, sculpture, tapestries, ornate gilded furniture, frescoed ceilings and more. The Galleria Colonna is only open on Saturdays. The Galleria Doria Pamphilj is open most days. As with most things in Rome at the moment I'd check to see if pre-reserving a slot is required (due to COVID). 

 

 

[frantic36]

8 hours ago, cruisemom42 said:

I think it is one of the better-kept secrets in Rome. There are two parts -- when you enter you walk through a museum with a lot of great displays that really help you to visualize not just the markets but ALL of the imperial forums -- those built by Julius Caesar, Augustus, Nerva, Trajan, etc.  It's worth paying attention to these but it's not overwhelming.

 

 

Thank you so much for this and all the other information. I have just had fun googling all of them and they definitely sound like places my husband and I would enjoy visiting. We have visited a lot of the more traditional sites in Rome, though we may revisit the Colosseum as they have opened up more areas to see.

 

The Domus Romane, especially with the spa baths reinvigorated will be interesting to us for a comparison  to the Baths of Caracalla where we had to use our imagination a lot more. I watched the video on the Galleria Colonna website and oh my, what a gem. I am very glad we will be there on the Saturday so I will make sure to book. I had bookmarked The Scuderie so hope there is an exhibition of interest on when we visit. The one you saw would have fascinated us.

 

Those two restaurant recommendations sound ideal. Colline Emiliane I will note to make advanced reservations. Is it best for a week or two or a month in advance?

 

Thank you again. I knew I could rely on you to supply me some gems to discover.

 

Julie

[cruisemom42]

1 hour ago, frantic36 said:

Those two restaurant recommendations sound ideal. Colline Emiliane I will note to make advanced reservations. Is it best for a week or two or a month in advance?

 

I think I reserved it around 2-3 weeks in advance of my visit, but I was there in early December when Rome is not very crowded in general. I reserved for the earliest time and I can attest that there were plenty of others waiting for their table along with me when the doors opened. I don't think they had any open tables after everyone was seated. 

 

[frantic36]

11 hours ago, cruisemom42 said:

 

I think I reserved it around 2-3 weeks in advance of my visit, but I was there in early December when Rome is not very crowded in general. I reserved for the earliest time and I can attest that there were plenty of others waiting for their table along with me when the doors opened. I don't think they had any open tables after everyone was seated. 

 

 

Thank you for this information. I will be there in July so I will try about 6-8 weeks before. We prefer to eat more around 8pm or later which means we may be competing with locals at that later time.

 

I do so hope we get to visit Rome next year. We will take precautions to try to ensure we test negative prior to our cruise so will avoid doing group tours so your ideas help to make interesting things to do by ourselves.

[BeginnercruiserHD]

On 10/26/2021 at 3:30 PM, Host Bonjour said:

 

I did this once on a visit (I loved it!) but I found a small market and stocked up on things to keep on hand like water (remember to check w/ or w/o gas, frizzante=sparkling), wine, cheese, fruit, bread, etc., and yoghurt (spelled different there) and some jams. It would be difficult to find cereals, but you might be able find eggs if you wanted. You could use speck or crudo to make an omelette with the eggs and cheese, though it might be a little too salty?

 

Be sure to bring your own bag to shop, there are no bags at Italian stores, so if you're stocking in for a few days, be prepared. If you don't have anything to use, the markets might sell reusable bags to use for holding groceries. 

 

Have a great time!

Thank you, we are for sure excited.  We'll likely need to get some sparkling water for the cruise since we're not planning on getting any types of drink package.  The apartment we got is beautiful, right in the middle of the Monti neighborhood with 2 balconies!  Great deal too, can't believe we got it for the price we got it.

[marazul]

On 11/1/2021 at 7:05 PM, cruisemom42 said:

 

I think I reserved it around 2-3 weeks in advance of my visit, but I was there in early December when Rome is not very crowded in general. I reserved for the earliest time and I can attest that there were plenty of others waiting for their table along with me when the doors opened. I don't think they had any open tables after everyone was seated. 

 

According to the website they accept phone reservations.  Did you phone or email to reserve?  Although my best skills in Italian consist of making reservations and ordering food so I would be happy to call.

[cruisemom42]

2 hours ago, marazul said:

According to the website they accept phone reservations.  Did you phone or email to reserve?  Although my best skills in Italian consist of making reservations and ordering food so I would be happy to call.

 

If my memory is correct, I asked the Albergo del Senato to make several local reservations for me before I arrived. They have been really helpful with things like that for me.

 

Restaurants, as you say, are pretty easy to do on your own -- but they have also helped with making calls to get me access to various sites (like those operated by Commune di Roma) which depend on being able to discuss more fluently.  I could probably do it now after years of Italian, but a decade ago it was intimidating, plus I would sometimes have trouble getting hold of the correct person/guide/bureaucrat....

 

 

[marazul]

13 minutes ago, cruisemom42 said:

 

If my memory is correct, I asked the Albergo del Senato to make several local reservations for me before I arrived. They have been really helpful with things like that for me.

That's the best plan then.

Grazie molte.

[Hlitner]

Cruisemom, we are  lurking :).  Your reference to Colline Emiliane immediately got my attention and we did some online research.  That does sound like our kind of restaurant and it is in the memory banks for our next visit to Rome (although we have no idea when that will happen).   You might find it interesting that we have booked a repo cruise that should get us to Monte Carlo in April.  But rather then staying in France or heading over to Italy (a country we both adore) our thinking is to turn this into somewhat of an Eastern Europe trip.  At the risk of being weighed down by dumplings we are thinking about a few days in Prague followed by at least two weeks driving throughout the Czech Republic and jumping over to both Germany and Poland for a few days.  Then again, heading to Italy from Monte Carlo is so darn easy and we do love the country...hmmm.

 

Hank

[Alaskanb]

I think I recollect you or someone else mentioning Armando del Pantheon . We will be staying at the Albergo del Senato for 2 nights on Oct 31 and Nov1 and thought Armandos would be a good close choice. We are both having walking issues so are making plans around that. I now know that those dates are holidays so am wondering how that will also affect our choices of what and where to eat or visit. Any suggestions will be wonderful.

[cruisemom42]

4 hours ago, Alaskanb said:

I think I recollect you or someone else mentioning Armando del Pantheon . We will be staying at the Albergo del Senato for 2 nights on Oct 31 and Nov1 and thought Armandos would be a good close choice. We are both having walking issues so are making plans around that. I now know that those dates are holidays so am wondering how that will also affect our choices of what and where to eat or visit. Any suggestions will be wonderful.

 

Armando al Pantheon is very close by. They are closed on Sundays but take very few days off other than around Christmas. Most things are open on November 1st (except the Vatican museums). There may be a few scattered restaurants closed but you should have no trouble finding places in the area to eat.

 

 

[slidergirl]

On 11/7/2021 at 7:51 PM, cruisemom42 said:

 

Armando al Pantheon is very close by. They are closed on Sundays but take very few days off other than around Christmas. Most things are open on November 1st (except the Vatican museums). There may be a few scattered restaurants closed but you should have no trouble finding places in the area to eat.

 

 

I've mentioned Armando al Pantheon many times.  I believe it about 1/2 block off the Piazza.  When I get to Rome, it is the first place I go for dinner.   I've always made my reservations via email from their website.  The place is very small - it fills every night.    They have their "standard" menu on the website, but always have some nice nightly specials.  

[cruisemom42]

19 hours ago, slidergirl said:

I've mentioned Armando al Pantheon many times.  I believe it about 1/2 block off the Piazza.  When I get to Rome, it is the first place I go for dinner.

 

Thanks to your recommendations I tried them about 6-7 years ago and have been a regular diner there ever since. I worry a little from time to time because they are so popular and have so many special guest visitors (latest being Stanley Tucci and Bobby Flay) that they will change -- but year after year they have so far remained the same small place.  Just fewer locals now and more tourists.

[bennybear]

2 hours ago, cruisemom42 said:

 

Thanks to your recommendations I tried them about 6-7 years ago and have been a regular diner there ever since. I worry a little from time to time because they are so popular and have so many special guest visitors (latest being Stanley Tucci and Bobby Flay) that they will change -- but year after year they have so far remained the same small place.  Just fewer locals now and more tourists.

It’s always a worry when somewhere gets too discovered.   We have a favourite little restaurant in a very small village in Tuscany off the beaten path with a lovely owner and chef. I just found out with trepidation that Rick Steves now recommends it. 

[slidergirl]

3 hours ago, cruisemom42 said:

 

Thanks to your recommendations I tried them about 6-7 years ago and have been a regular diner there ever since. I worry a little from time to time because they are so popular and have so many special guest visitors (latest being Stanley Tucci and Bobby Flay) that they will change -- but year after year they have so far remained the same small place.  Just fewer locals now and more tourists.

I think Claudio keeps some reservations off the schedule.  I have usually seen more locals, usually a group of friends or a family pack.  Just a thought.  Now, if Rick Steves start to mention them...  

[Host Bonjour]

On 10/26/2021 at 6:25 PM, bennybear said:

But how they feel,  sigh!  

 

So happy for you! Wonderful find, goes to show, worth looking for–you never know. It's nice to enjoy fine things at a special price, especially when they remind us of heavenly places 😉 🇮🇹